Amateur flower growers have long “domesticated” citrus fruits, including lemons. But getting a harvest on the windowsill is impossible without proper pruning. In addition, such a plant looks much neater and more decorative.
Optimal timing and general rules for pruning lemons when growing at home
Inept pruning of a lemon will not benefit the plant, but harm it and may even destroy the plant. Therefore, when starting the procedure, you need to be guided by the following rules:
- Use only clean, disinfected and sharp tools.
Tools used to trim lemons can be disinfected with ethyl alcohol or a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate
- If the tree is already bearing fruit, before pruning you need to remove the entire crop, even the lemons that have not yet ripened.
Before pruning a lemon, be sure to remove the entire crop from the tree (at any stage of maturity)
- Shoots of the first order are shortened the most - by 25 cm, of the second - by a maximum of 10 cm, and the thinner branches that form on them - by 5 cm, no more. If you have reasonable doubts about your own eye, do not be lazy to measure the required length. An error of 1–2 cm can disrupt the normal growth of the tree.
- After spring pruning, move the lemon closer to the window. This way it will “feel” the increase faster daylight hours and begins to grow.
- After pruning, provide the lemon with nutrients by feeding it after 7-10 days. Regular watering will also help it recover faster.
Feeding after pruning will help the lemon recover faster and survive “stress.”
- “Fattening” sprouts, which definitely won’t bear flowers or fruits, can be cut off throughout the season. The same applies to parts of the plant affected by diseases and pests.
- Lemons that are 1–2 years old rarely produce flowers. They need to be cut off immediately. If this is not done, the tree may survive, but it will never bear fruit. No more than 5–10 flowers can be left only on a three-year-old lemon. Each of them should have 15 leaves.
Any flowering, especially an abundant one, greatly depletes the lemon - young plants are especially affected
- The optimal shape of a lemon crown is flat. In this form, it is evenly illuminated and warmed by the sun.
If you form a flat crown on a lemon, the ripening fruits will evenly receive heat and sunlight
- If you want strong new growth, trim selected branches short. Pinching will ensure the formation of new flower buds.
There is no general opinion among gardeners regarding the best time to prune a lemon. The period of flowering and fruiting is definitely excluded - this plant spends a lot of energy on this plant, pruning drains it more. The lemon may not recover from such “stress.” Also, you should not prune the tree at the junction of summer and autumn. The procedure stimulates branching, and before the onset of the dormant period, the lemon does not need new shoots at all.
The lemon will most likely not survive pruning during fruiting.
Most often, the bulk of lemon pruning work is carried out at the end of the winter hibernation period. It lasts from October-November to February-March. Plan the procedure for early March. But the leaf buds should not “wake up” by this time.
A lemon whose growth buds have already activated and sap flow has begun should not be radically pruned.
They begin to gradually thin out the crown in January-February. If the goal is to increase the yield of an already fruit-bearing plant, pruning is postponed to the beginning of the dormant period.
Video: personal experience of pruning lemons in winter
A lemon grown from a cutting or seed is simply a “stick” (zero-order shoot), without side branches. To stimulate branching, a year after rooting of the cutting or two after the emergence of seedlings, the existing shoot, which has grown to 27–35 cm, is shortened by about 20 cm, leaving 3–4 growth buds on the trunk. Ideally, they should be located approximately at the same level at approximately equal intervals around the trunk.
Consider the condition of the plant - if it is obvious that it is not yet strong enough, wait another year.
Lemons obtained from cuttings and seeds begin to branch only after the first pruning
Correct formation of the crown of a lemon tree
A lemon tree at home is formed as follows:
- The growth buds left after the first pruning of the lemon should give rise to branches - shoots of the first order. In a year they will stretch to about 15–20 cm. Now they need to be pinched, removing 1–2 growth buds.
- After a year, on each shoot of the first order, two shoots of the second order are left, choosing the most powerful and developed. They are also pinched, like last year.
- On each second-order shoot, 3–5 third-order branches are left. They also need pinching.
- The final stage is fourth-order branches on third-order shoots. They need to be left in 3-4 pieces. It is on them that flower buds appear, and then fruits.
Lemons begin to bear fruit on shoots of the fourth order; shaping them is the main purpose of annual pruning
How to prune a formed tree further
Next, the lemon only needs to maintain the resulting configuration. Sanitary pruning is mandatory - all branches growing down and inside the crown, curved, thin, dry shoots rubbing against each other are removed.
The formed tree is pruned in almost the same way as garden fruit trees.
After harvesting, the branches on which the lemons were are immediately pruned, removing approximately 3/4 of the length.
Video: how to shape citrus trees from the moment of planting, an expert tells
Possible problems when pruning:
- Formation of “fattening” tops in place of cut shoots. These branches grow much faster than others, the leaves on them are larger and darker. Spinning tops take away a lot of nutrients from the lemon to the detriment of other growth. If you are satisfied with the condition of the crown, remove them completely. If the lemon, in your opinion, branches poorly, leave about 30% of the length of the top. Sometimes this helps it “rebirth” into a fruit-bearing shoot.
- The appearance after pruning of one shoot instead of the required three or four. It needs to be completely broken out. Sometimes this operation is repeated 2-3 times.
- Lack of fruiting. When the lemon does not bear fruit, the shoots of the fourth order are pinched, leaving 6–8 leaves on them.
- The need for rejuvenation. Trees aged 15–18 years need it. All shoots of the fourth order are removed completely. Immediately after pruning, the lemon is transplanted into a new pot, shortening the roots by about a third in the process. “Sleeping” buds are activated and new shoots begin to form.
Video: pruning lemon crowns and common mistakes
Formation by bending branches
This method allows you to get side shoots without resorting to pruning. But it will take much longer to form the crown. The procedure is carried out in early spring.
Having determined for yourself the height of the stem (from 15–20 to 30–40 cm), when it reaches approximately twice the size, the top of the lemon is carefully bent so as not to break the trunk. The stamp should maintain a vertical position, everything else should be as close to horizontal as possible. In this position, the trunk must be fixed by tying a thin rope to it approximately in the middle.
The natural direction of tree growth is upward. Therefore, the lemon will try to restore the vertical. A new shoot will emerge from the bend point. It will also need to be bent in the direction opposite to the top and fixed. They do this twice more, getting 4 first-order shoots in 2–3 years.
Stimulating reproduction: what can be done to make a lemon bloom and bear fruit
If the lemon does not bear fruit, you can try to “spur it” using the ringing method. The method is only suitable for plants older than three years.
Two circular cuts about 1 mm deep are made 5–7 cm from the base of the trunk, a strip of bark is removed, turned “inside out” and returned to its original place. The entire structure is fixed with garden varnish.
There is another option. At approximately the same place, make one cut up to 0.5 mm deep and tightly wrap a piece of copper wire around the barrel so that it slightly cuts into the tissue. Additionally, you can “ring” shoots of the first order. The wire is removed after 6–12 months, when an influx of bark forms above it.
Ringing disrupts the normal process of sap flow, the lemon is forced to react to a threat to life
Ringing disrupts the natural distribution of plant juices. A lemon that does not receive enough water and nutrients “thinks” that it may soon die and actively begins to form fruits for reproduction.
Pruning is an important agrotechnical technique for indoor lemon. The plant must be forced to branch, otherwise you will not get a harvest from it. Even a less experienced gardener can perform pruning correctly if he studies all the nuances of the procedure in advance.
Young lemons at the initial stage of development form only one shoot in a vertical direction, and after some time lateral shoots appear.
Branches of the following orders develop only after several years of tree growth. It is these short shoots that serve as the place where flowers and ovaries appear.
One of the main components is pruning.
Features of pruning at home
Lemon tree pruning can be carried out throughout the growing season.
Pruning is carried out according to the following principle: it is necessary to carefully shorten each branch, and you need to start work from a zero shoot. Thus, the plant will begin to bush, and the so-called fruits will appear much faster.
A fully matured branch of zero order needs to be shortened by almost twenty centimeters. As a result, only a pair of well-developed buds should remain, facing in different directions. After some time, shoots will sprout from them.
The latter will also leave 4-5 branches of the first order, which served as the basis for the skeleton of the plant. Such branches need to be trimmed so that their length does not exceed an average of twenty-five centimeters.
All shoots that belong to the second order must be trimmed by about ten centimeters. Branches of other orders are shortened by no more than five centimeters. The crown skeleton is formed until the stage when shoots of the fourth order begin to appear. Then this process must be completed.
When working to form a suitable lemon tree crown skeleton it is very important to control so that not one, but several buds are formed on the shoots at the same time.
If only one upper bud has formed, then it is better to remove such a shoot immediately. However, this shoot should not be pruned.
You need to understand the differences"trimming" and "deleting". So, pruning during the formation process is not the most suitable option. This is explained by the fact that the procedure is both irrational and “painful” for the plant.
After all, in order to build trunk tissue, a tree requires a lot of time, as well as a huge amount of various nutritional components, without which normal development of the plant is impossible. Therefore, such idle work should not be carried out.
Pincing
Most suitable option- pinching. This method is based on removing unnecessary shoots at the initial stage of its development from the fruit. Sometimes the bud has to be pinched again. Tweezing the tips of intensively developing shoots has an equally beneficial effect.
As a result, you can significantly save nutrients in the tree, which will contribute to more intensive maturation of the new growth of the lemon tree.
Crown formation
Recently, very often gardeners give preference to forming the crown of a tree with a flat shape.
This form is considered appropriate for growing plants in limited space.
How to form a crown correctly lemon at home? Forming this crown is not very difficult: from the very beginning, you need to direct all the branches and shoots at a certain time, breaking them off and bending them if necessary.
Then, when the size of the crown of the tree reaches the boundaries of the window opening, it is necessary to carry out hard pinching, and in some cases, pruning. As a result, the lemon will develop well and also produce abundant harvests.
When forming the crown of a lemon tree at home, you must constantly ensure that both in the crown of home lemons and in the lower area of their trunks do not develop fattening shoots or so-called tops.
Because the tops grow quite intensively in the vertical direction, consuming a huge amount of nutritional components, which negatively affects appearance the whole plant and its further development.
Therefore, harmful growths should be removed as soon as they are noticed.
Fruiting
It is worth noting that fruiting it is better not to allow until the final completion of formation all skeletal branches of the lemon crown.
This is explained by the fact that the branches develop very poorly under the heavy weight of the fruit. In most cases, when buds form prematurely, they are simply torn off.
And here is a video about how to form a crown, how to prune a lemon correctly so that it bears fruit.
Another method
The method of cardinal pruning of lemon is also practiced, when all branches are shortened to a certain length. However, it has one big drawback - the tree may not bear fruit throughout the next year.
It is better to carry out corrective pruning, slightly shortening new growth. Usually, buds soon appear on the newly formed shoots and grow rapidly.
Lemon trimming - the most important procedure in the process of crown formation plants. Within a couple of weeks after pruning, new growth areas will form on completely bare branches.
The main thing is to do everything carefully so that the tissues of the lemon tree trunk are not damaged. IN otherwise Lemon growth may be disrupted and its yield will noticeably decrease.
A video about how to properly prune a lemon at home, and about when you can prune a lemon tree.
And here's a video about how to trim a lemon at home.
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Recently, indoor lemons can be found more and more often in homes. It is not a very tall tree that grows quite normally in normal conditions. flower pot. But in order for it to be beautiful and bear fruit well, it should be pruned. This article is about how to prune a lemon correctly.
There is a statement that it is necessary to prune a young lemon that was grown from a shortened cutting or seedling before the start of the active stage of the growing season at the age of one year. This is usually done in February. In this case home tree should reach a height of 20 cm.
At the same time, there is a slightly different approach to lemon pruning. In this situation, it is carried out in the spring, most often in March, and always before the start of the first growth. Typically, in the spring, lemon pruning is carried out during the flowering and budding period.
You can also find information that homemade lemon pruned in winter. In this case, pruning is carried out after all the fruits have been removed. This pruning can also be done in the fall. At the same time, autumn-winter pruning of indoor lemon can replace spring pruning. This method will help increase the fruitfulness of homemade lemon.
It is believed that the best time to prune a lemon tree is spring.
It should be remembered that indoor young lemons should be trimmed only when necessary, since frequent and unnecessary pruning can only weaken them.
If you have an old homemade lemon tree, you can prune it for rejuvenation. In this case, weakened branches are cut to the maximum available distance in order to stimulate the growth of new young shoots.
With proper pruning, as well as timely and high-quality care, the lemon tree will bear fruit for a long time, and its life expectancy will noticeably increase.
In the absence of timely and necessary pruning, the lemon will grow with one trunk with no side branches, or as an ordinary dense bush.
Instructions
Since lemons are pruned mainly to form a crown, they do this according to certain instructions and rules in order to achieve the desired result. An indoor lemon tree must have the required number of skeletal main branches, overgrowing shoots and a large number of small fruit-twigs.
Lighting is very important for lemons, so it is necessary to prune the plant so that its leaves can receive the maximum amount of sunlight.
To form and properly trim the crown, the following rules exist:
- You should start pruning a young tree only after it has grown to a height of at least 20 cm;
- for pruning, the standard should be 10-15 cm in height, and in the case of a cutting plant, you can do without it altogether;
- you should take into account the lemon's needs for nutrients, lighting and other biological features. Since otherwise, trimming the crown will only allow you to get decorative tree which will not bear fruit.
Lemon pruning diagram
This process will also be shown more clearly in the video posted in the article below.
Features of branching and its influence on pruning
Also, in order to properly prune a lemon, you need to know the features of its branching, which are as follows:
- lemon seedlings or occulant at the beginning of growth form only one single vertical shoot, which is classified as first order;
- in the second year (or at the end of the first year) the formation of lateral shoots occurs, which are also classified as first order. They must be left in the amount of 4 pieces;
- in the future, shoots of the second order will form on the side shoots of the first order, and so on;
- after the formation of lateral shoots of the fourth order, the onset of the first fruiting is possible.
An adult and already fruit-bearing lemon tree has several variants of branches that begin to bear fruit in the first year, while others continue to grow and begin to bear fruit only after a year. It is also possible to form new shoots with only one apical flower. Sometimes so-called vertically growing “fatty” and non-fruiting branches are formed. In such a situation, there are two possible ways to get rid of such unwanted “fatty” shoots:
- complete removal;
- shortening by 25 cm and their degeneration into normal fruiting branches.
Only fruit branches, which are usually located in the upper part of the crown, are richest in useful ovaries. They are often placed horizontally, but can also occupy a hanging position.
During the growth and development of lemon, as well as during proper care, there is a gradual death of old branches. To prevent them from taking on nutrients and minerals, they need to be trimmed. In this case, pruning is intended only to ensure that nutrients are correctly distributed and go only to young and healthy branches, as well as fruits.
Taking into account the branching features of this indoor plant, the following instructions were developed:
- It is necessary to start pruning with a shoot of zero order. It is pruned at a height of about 15 or 20 cm. In this case, you need to leave four well-developed buds;
- from these buds the main skeletal shoots will form in the future. They should be directed evenly and in different directions;
- in the future, they should be plucked or pinched at the moment when these branches have reached a length of about 30 cm (sometimes 20 cm is enough);
- pluck out only excess shoots at the moment they appear;
- if the shoots are useful and necessary, then they are pinched when the first 5 or 7 leaves are formed. Only pinch out the tops;
- it is necessary to trim second-order shoots to a length of up to 25 cm;
- subsequent shoots are usually shortened 5 cm shorter than the previous ones;
- the formation and pruning of the crown skeleton is completed on fourth-order shoots.
Nuances of crown formation
In addition to the instructions, there are also certain rules for pruning and crown formation of citrus plants. By following these rules, you can greatly simplify future pruning and significantly increase your yield.
Rules for pruning and crown formation:
- pruning and pinching can be carried out throughout the growing season;
- You can shorten all branches, but you should start from the trunk. This will help force the plant to take the shape of a bush, as a result of which fruit formation will occur faster;
- the trunk can only be shortened by no more than 20 cm. In this case, it is best to leave only a couple of well-developed buds, which are directed in different directions;
- shoots of the first order are not recommended to be shortened by more than 25 cm, and shoots of the second order - by more than 10 cm;
- branches of subsequent orders (3, 4, 5) can be shortened only by 5 cm;
- crown formation can be completed by pruning branches of the fourth or fifth orders.
During the entire process of crown formation (takes from two to three years), you should ensure that several upper buds germinate simultaneously. If this is not possible, this one extra shoot must be completely removed, but the branch itself must not be cut off. It is necessary to remove the shoot when it has already begun to grow.
Forming and pruning a flat crown is more beneficial for the lemon tree, since it allows it to be most optimally placed on the windowsill.
For such a crown, there are the following instructions for its formation:
- at the very beginning you need to bend, trim and guide the branches that grow deep into the room and orient them in the direction of the window sill;
- at the moment when the width and height of the plant crown reaches the boundaries of the window socket, hard pinching or pruning is used.
As a result, a living “curtain” is formed, and the tree itself begins to bear fruit more actively.
Video “Pruning a homemade lemon tree”
In this video you can see how to properly prune without damaging the tree.
For amateur lemon growers, there are tips that will help you perform pruning optimally and efficiently, and will also help you avoid many mistakes.
For beginners maintaining a home lemon tree, experts give the following advice:
- During the formation and pruning of the crown, the yield should be normalized by removing flowers. Extra flowers only deplete the tree. After several abundant fruitful years, the plant may dry out;
- Anti-aging pruning should be carried out when annual growth decreases. It is carried out only in conjunction with fertilizing;
- Instead of pruning, it is better to pinch, since it does not deplete the lemon’s capabilities;
- carefully monitor the formation of “fatty” branches and promptly stop their development;
- It is best to prevent the plant from bearing fruit during the period of crown formation, since then the yield will be much greater than if the tree bears fruit during this period. Flowering in the first year is especially dangerous, since it can significantly deplete the lemon, and in the future it will produce a low and poor-quality harvest. The complete death of the lemon is even possible;
- It is best to form a flat crown of the tree;
- pruning should be done only as a last resort and where it is really necessary. With its help, you can improve branching and form a regular and beautiful crown;
- short pruning is carried out when it is necessary to form strong new shoots, and long pruning is carried out when it is necessary to form fruit buds.
With proper pruning, you can form a beautiful crown, as well as improve the yield of the tree, and you will always have fresh lemons for your tea!
It is necessary to care for indoor lemons competently. This plant is quite demanding to care for, but among all citrus fruits it is considered the most suitable for a beginner. In addition to maintaining the optimal temperature in the room, regular watering and fertilizing, there is another important component of the process of growing indoor shrubs. This is what pruning is. How to prune a lemon correctly, and how often is it recommended to do it? Let's consider the most important points more details.
Forming the crown of a young lemon is an important stage of care. But everything needs to be done correctly and in due time. Many experts argue that it is necessary to shorten the shoots of a tree immediately before all the life processes of the plant are activated, that is, in early spring. Moreover, it is not necessary to wait long: the first molding pruning is carried out when the lemon is approximately one year old. The optimal time to carry out this procedure is February.
But there is a slightly different approach. There are many gardeners who prefer to prune lemons in the spring, when the plant is blooming. Interestingly, pruning indoor lemons is not necessarily carried out during a strictly specified period. In fact, this procedure can be carried out throughout the year. The main thing is to choose the right moment, and not remove shoots whenever you want. In autumn, for example, flower growers also rejuvenate shrubs. This is done after all vital processes of the citrus tree have stopped, and the sap flow is no longer so active.
Is it worth pruning a lemon in autumn and winter? In fact, it is even beneficial for the plant. This way you will improve the fruitfulness of the lemon tree. If we talk about the most optimal time for removing branches, this is, of course, spring. Having carried out this procedure during the period of active sap flow, you will be absolutely calm about your indoor flower. Remember: resort to such “treatment” only when necessary. Too frequent pruning of branches is fraught with low intensity of tree development.
Formation instructions
Pruning fruit-bearing lemons at home should be carried out taking into account the basic rules. If you shorten the branches incorrectly, you can only cause serious harm to the plant. Prune lemons at home based on the following guidelines:
- If desired, you can shorten all the branches of your homemade lemon. However, the procedure will be truly effective if you start from the trunk. The whole point is that in this way you will be able to form a bush plant that can bear fruit quite generously;
- you should not cut the tree trunk by more than 20 cm;
- At the end of the procedure, be sure to treat all cut areas. Use an antiseptic for this - garden varnish. Moreover, it is better not to touch the most fragile branches.
Remember: treating a home plant with an antiseptic after the crown has formed is very important. The lemon tree adapts much less well to new conditions if it grows in our climate. That is why any nuance you miss (for example, neglecting the need to process shortened branches) can lead to the bush becoming sick.
Effect of branching on pruning
Lemon pruning is not the easiest part of plant care. Only experienced specialists know how to form a crown efficiently. However, all this can be learned. The main thing is to master the intricacies of the process. Pay special attention to the branching features of the lemon:
- the seedlings or occulant of the plant constitute one vertical shoot;
- during the second year of development of the lemon tree, lateral branches are formed on it, which, together with the vertical shoot, are classified as first order;
- After some time, branches of their own begin to form on the stronger side branches. They are already classified as second order.
Interestingly, only when shoots of the fourth order are formed on a citrus plant is the process of fruiting possible. When a tree in a pot bears fruit, fruits are not formed on every branch, since the youngest and weakest shoots are still developing.
Crown formation
How to pinch correctly indoor tree lemon? It is simply necessary to prune your houseplant according to the rules, otherwise you will not be too pleased with the results. When the growing season begins, it’s time to start a similar procedure. First of all, it is necessary to remove the length from the main trunk. Only after this can you take on the remaining branches.
If you approach this pruning wisely and shorten almost all the branches of the lemon, it will grow and form much faster.
Do not think that your home tree will take the shape you need after the first removal of branches. It will take approximately 2–3 years to achieve the desired result. Remember, there should be several buds on each shoot. Otherwise, the branch can simply be cut off, but not the entire branch, but only the shoot. Many novice flower growers or those who have recently been faced with the need to learn the rules for pruning homemade lemons suddenly wonder what shape of crown they need.
Below is material on forming the crown of an indoor lemon. When I first posted it, it seemed to me that this was enough, but I was wrong - the topic is quite broad and not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance. So I decided to add a few more pages:
For those who want to understand the issue of pruning, I recommend looking through all the pages - they complement each other well, even though in some places the material overlaps.
There are many cases where indoor lemons, especially those grown from rooted cuttings, grew well without shaping. But still, in order for the tree to have a beautiful crown, it is necessary to constantly work in this direction - to guide its growth by resorting to pruning and pinching - removing emerging buds.
Natural branching of an indoor lemon tree.
A young tree initially produces one vertical shoot of zero order.
- in the 2nd year, lateral shoots of the 1st order may already appear.
- Usually branches of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th orders begin to develop within a few years. It’s these branches that they try to get quickly, because only on short side branches - fruits - flowers form, and then ovaries. If the growth of a lemon is left to chance, then the wait for the first flowers and fruits will be somewhat delayed.
This development of the lemon tree described above is primarily characteristic of grafted seedlings and seedlings. As practice shows, cuttings of lemons still prefer to bush on their own - already in the first years of life (sometimes there are exceptions).
Rules for forming the crown of an indoor lemon tree.
Pinching and pruning of branches is carried out throughout the growing season according to the principle: shorten all the branches, starting with zero (stem), force the tree to bush - you will get “fruits” faster.
- the mature stem of the seedling (zero-order branch) is shortened at a height of about 16-20 cm, leaving only a few well-developed buds directed in different directions. Subsequently, shoots sprout from these buds, of which 3-4, in turn, are left - these will be first-order branches (the future main skeletal branches of the plant).
- these branches (first order branches) are not allowed to grow beyond 20 -25 cm.
- shoots of the 2nd order are cut only 10 cm shorter.
- branches of the 3rd, 4th, 5th orders are shortened by 5 cm.
When branches of the 4th order have already appeared, the formation of the crown skeleton is completed.
It is important during the formation of the crown skeleton (lasts 2-3 years) to control that not just the top bud grows, but 2-3 more at the same time. If this is not the case, then it is better to remove this single shoot. “remove”, but do not prune the branch - remove the unwanted shoot as soon as it begins to grow from the bud.
There is a difference between "delete" and "trim". Trimming when shaping for indoor lemon is not exactly what is needed. Firstly, it is “painful” for him, and secondly, it is irrational. To build its tissue, a tree needs a lot of time and a large amount of nutrients. In this regard, it is better not to allow such idle “work”, but to control its growth by pinching (pinching) - removing the unnecessary shoot at the very beginning of its development from the bud. It happens that a stubbornly growing bud needs to be pinched twice. It is also useful to apply pinching to the tips of all rapidly developing shoots - to save nutrients and more quickly ripen new growth.
Indoor lemon twists.
In addition to pinching and pruning, you need to pay attention to the lighting of the lemon tree sun rays. The plant should not be constantly in a constant position in relation to sunlight, otherwise there will be no full development. If you treat a lemon tree like an ordinary flowerpot - for example, turn the plant with the opposite side towards the light; then the result will be the following: the leaves will curl, become deformed, or even completely fall off. As a result of the above action, the plants will grow very poorly and feel depressed for a long time.
What's the matter?
The thing is that in room conditions, the lemon tree is very conservative. The leaves of the plant seem to get used to a certain dose of light - illumination from a certain direction. In the event of a sharp change in light intensity, the metabolic processes that occur in plants are immediately disrupted, which in turn adversely affects the condition of the plant.
To rotate the lemon tree:
The following proven method is recommended - turn the pot with the plant 10 degrees every 10 days. As a result of such a small turn, the lemon tree will not experience sudden changes, and metabolic processes will proceed normally. Thus, in 1 year the lemon tree can be rotated 360 degrees - which in turn will ensure uniform development of the crown.
A little more about plant rotations.
The crown of a lemon tree can also be shaped into a bush. The plant itself will tell you how to do it.
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