Insulation of walls inside a frame house. How to properly insulate a frame house. Using Styrofoam and Epps

Frame houses differ from the rest in the design of the outer walls. There is no main building material here, like brick or wooden houses, and thermal insulation does not go as a second layer according to the hinged or wet facade technology. A warming frame house mineral wool can be considered as an on-site assembly of a sandwich panel with insulation in the middle and thin sheet sheathing.

Features of warming a frame house

Insulation of any building should be comprehensive - from the foundation to the roof. Frame houses are no exception.

Only an integrated approach to insulation will give a real effect.

These are light houses that do not need a strong foundation, and if the project does not include a basement or basement, then in most cases they put a pile foundation. And in order to reduce heat loss through it, they equip an insulated pick-up (basement).

Usually, the floor insulation of a frame house follows the traditional scheme, in which wooden floor beams and logs act as load-bearing elements, and mineral wool is mounted between them. So that the insulation does not “fall out”, a filing of boards holds it from below (a grid is used as an alternative). A rough floor is laid on top, as the basis for the topcoat.

Warming frame walls mineral wool occurs according to the following scheme: it is laid between the racks and spacers, which are sheathed with sheet materials or a board. The section of the beam for the racks determines the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but this condition is not the main one when choosing the size of the bearing elements. For the strength of the walls of a frame house, especially a one-story one, a rack with a section of 50x150 mm is enough. For southern regions with a "mild" winter, this thickness of mineral wool is enough. But for other regions it is not enough.

Scheme of a frame wall with a beam 150 mm high

The use of a beam with a height of 200 mm is often excessive in terms of the load-bearing properties of the frame, and in such cases it is more cost-effective to perform additional external insulation.

Important! What thickness of mineral wool layers is necessary for warming a house can only be shown by a calculation carried out on the basis of the current standard, taking into account the characteristics of the region and the properties of all enclosing surfaces

Roof insulation depends on the nature of the operation of the attic. Non-residential, or "cold", attics are insulated only along the ceiling. For attics and operated attics, in which engineering equipment is installed (for example, hydraulic accumulators, ventilation and cooling systems), the roof itself is insulated.

From the point of view of thermal engineering, the walls of a frame house are single-layer. In order for them to pass into the category of three-layer (structural material / insulation / structural material), the thickness of the outer layers of the enclosing surface must be more than 50 mm at a ratio with the insulation thickness of at least 1 / 1.25 (clause 8.11 of SP 23-101-2004) . But in reality, the structure of the walls of a frame house contains 5 main layers, not counting the facade and interior decoration. A vapor barrier film (from the side of the room) and a waterproofing membrane (from the side of the street) are laid between the skins and the thermal insulation. And this arrangement is dictated by the properties of mineral wool.

Due to this property, it is even used in fireproof structures - doors and partitions.

For wooden structures, this quality is important, so mineral wool is the main type of thermal insulation for floors on logs, pitched roofs and walls. frame houses. Although mineral wool "loses" in terms of thermal insulation properties to foam plastic (expanded polystyrene) and foam plastic (extruded polystyrene foam).

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is the ability to absorb water. The fiber itself does not get wet, but the structure of the material contributes to this. And when wet, the thermal insulation properties of the material are lost and conditions appear for the decay of the wooden structure. To compensate for this shortcoming, two additional layers are used:

to prevent the penetration of water vapor from warm air from inside the heated room - vapor barrier;
to protect against water ingress from the facade and weathering excess moisture- waterproofing membranes.

What mineral wool is used to insulate a frame house

The term "mineral" covers three different material: glass wool, slag wool and stone wool. For insulation of residential buildings, including frame buildings, the latter option is used.

Glass wool is fragile, and when laid, fine “dust” is formed from broken fibers, which is dangerous not only for workers, but also for residents. Slag wool has low ecological qualities.

Mineral wool for a frame house can have a different density depending on the type of insulated surface and the method of insulation.

The range of mineral wool is so wide that it can be used to insulate any enclosing surfaces and structures.

Important! Stone wool is a special material. Its thermal conductivity does not directly depend on density - the structure and production technology are important. Therefore, rigid boards or mats can have higher thermal insulation properties than soft roll materials.

According to the type of enclosing surface, the following types of materials are used:

rigid slabs - concrete floor on the ground, reinforced concrete floor on strip foundation above the basement or basement (for laying floor tiles);
semi-rigid slabs and mats - frame walls, attic or roof of an exploited attic;
mats and rolls - wooden floors on logs and ceilings.

Note. When choosing the density of mineral wool for the walls of a frame house, there are certain limitations. For "internal" insulation, materials with a density of 35-50 kg / m 3 are recommended, for external (according to the technology of a ventilated facade) - at least 80-90 kg / m 3. For wooden floors and there are no such restrictions, you can use mineral wool of any density, and the main criterion is how much such a heater costs.

Description of the insulation process

When insulated with mineral wool different types enclosing surfaces of a frame house uses its own insulation scheme. But as for frame walls, one thing works general rule- the vapor barrier of the insulation is carried out from the side of the heated room.

The vapor barrier is laid in a continuous layer without "gaps" between the insulated surfaces.

Basement floor slab

In the case when a basement is provided in the project of a frame house, a strip foundation is used as a base.

The standard scheme for insulating the concrete floor of the first floor with mineral wool for laying floor tiles is as follows:

Level the surface of the plate with a screed.
Lay a waterproofing layer.
Lay rigid slabs of mineral wool (density from 150 kg / m 3).
Cover the insulation with a continuous layer of vapor barrier film.
A cement-sand screed is poured as a subfloor.
Install flooring.

Note. For laying parquet on top of the screed, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are additionally attached.

Insulated concrete floors on the ground have a similar structure.

The scheme of insulation of the concrete floor on the ground

When arranging a wooden subfloor, the insulation scheme looks like this:

Overlap.
Waterproofing.
Logs.
Mineral wool between joists.
Vapor barrier.
Boards or plywood as a base for a top coat.

Wood flooring on the first floor

The traditional scheme of wooden flooring looks like this:

Floor load-bearing beams resting on the foundation (lower trim beam on the grillage or strip base plinth).
Additional logs and crossbars, which are mounted taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the thickness of the subfloor boards.
Cranial bars fixed in the lower part of the beams, logs and crossbars.
Board lining to support the waterproofing of the insulation.
Waterproofing membrane.
Mineral wool laid between the floor elements.
Vapor barrier.
Draft floor.

If the height of the subfloor allows you to mount the filing from below, then you can do without a cranial bar

Note. There are other heating schemes. For example, they use a mesh that allows you to fully use the entire volume of the floor for insulation. Or the arrangement of an additional counter-lattice and another layer of floor insulation for frame houses in regions with cold winters.

Insulation of the facade of a frame house

External insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is usually carried out according to the scheme of a ventilated facade:

Mount the crate for laying insulation. The height of the beam section should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool, the layout step is chosen 5 cm less than its width.
Mineral wool mats are laid and fixed to the crate.
Attach a layer of waterproofing windproof membrane.
Install the control panel. The height of the bar must be at least 6 cm (SNiP requirements for the size of the ventilated gap).
Sheathe the walls with facade panels.

One of the options for a double layer of thermal insulation - internal (between the racks) and external (along the crate)

cold attic insulation

In this case, it is not the roof that is insulated, but wooden floor. And the vapor barrier is laid in such a way as to protect not only mineral wool, but also wooden beams from getting wet. The classic scheme looks like this:

A hemmed ceiling is mounted along the floor beams, to which a vapor barrier is attached from below with a continuous layer. It can be both anti-condensation and reflective vapor-proof materials.
Between the beams, from the side of the attic, on false ceiling lay mineral wool.
Attach a waterproofing membrane to the beams.

Note. According to the standards, waterproofing of a cold attic insulation is recommended only along a perimeter with a width of at least 1 m.

If the thickness of the insulation occupies the entire "internal" volume of the ceiling, then spacer rails are mounted on top of the beams to create a ventilated gap.
On beams (or remote rails) mount the floor.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can take place according to two main schemes:

With one ventilated gap between waterproofing and roofing. A superdiffusion membrane is used, which is laid directly on top of the insulation.
With two ventilated gaps. The first is between the insulation and the waterproofing film, the second is between the film and the roof. It is applied for metal roofing when waterproofing materials with limited vapor permeability are used.

Standard insulated roof scheme with waterproofing membrane and one ventilated gap

The structure of the insulated roof from the side of the attic (mansard) looks like this:

Inner lining attached to the crate.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation placed between the rafter legs.
Waterproofing attached to the rafters (one ventilated gap) or to the spacer rail (two ventilated gaps).
Sheathing for roofing.

Frame houses are a multi-layer structure with a complex wall consisting of several materials. One of the main wall materials is insulated. Most often it is mineral wool or polystyrene, which is laid directly on the frame, between its timber. This is the so-called internal insulation. However, sometimes there is a need for additional external insulation of the house (outside).

Material selection

Despite the abundance of materials for insulation, the choice practically consists of only two options:

insulate with foam
insulate with mineral wool

However, a more expensive method - insulation with foam boards - is also used, you can watch a video about it at the bottom of the article.

Each of these materials has both its fans and its opponents.

Styrofoam for exterior decoration is chosen more often, and the reason for this is its moisture resistance. In our climate, where it constantly rains, then snow, then fogs cover - this the best way. At the same time, foam sheets additionally protect OSB-plates, which close the frame wall cake.

Styrofoam does not change its shape and appearance even after a long period of time, it is easy to lay it on the walls, as it is light and does not require great physical strength.

And another plus is that it is easy to plaster a wall with foam.

Mineral wool is used less frequently, but this material is quite suitable for exterior decoration, especially if for internal insulation you used cotton wool and decided to immediately order more material. When buying a large batch, many sellers offer a discount.

Mineral wool has one significant plus compared to polystyrene foam, and this plus concerns the safety of the residents of a frame house. Mineral wool consists of fibers that do not support combustion. For private housing, this is a huge plus, since fires, unfortunately, in summer cottages or in private sectors are not rare. Therefore, the insulation of external walls with mineral wool is an additional protection of the house from fire.

The disadvantage of mineral wool in this case is its accumulation of moisture, which it absorbs like a sponge. After some time, unprotected mineral wool loses its appearance, cakes, holes appear in the insulation. This can be avoided by external finishing, which will prevent water from entering the insulation, and thereby extend the life of the frame house.

We lay the foam

Styrofoam is a simple and lightweight material, and it is a pleasure to lay it. Especially if the walls of the frame house are even, and you have at least some experience with this material. First you need to choose the right foam in the store. There are a huge number of types that differ from each other both in the density of the insulation and in the thickness. Which foam to choose for warming the house outside?

So let's look at the dimensions first. They are standard and represent three size categories: 0.5x1 m, 1x1 m, 2x1 m. Small sheets are used to insulate small areas, for example, balconies, booths, etc. number of joints.

The density of a foam board is determined by the size of the air space between the foamed polystyrene beads. There is the following marking: 15, 25, 35, 50. If foam plastic 15 is also suitable for internal insulation of rooms, then for the insulation of the facade of a frame building, which is often exposed to adverse effects in the form of rain, snow and temperature changes, a material with a density of 25-35 is suitable kg/cu.m.

Mineral wool also has a different density.

When laying the foam in two layers, it is worth closing the gaps between the sheets of the first row with plates. Then the building will be especially warm due to the absence of cold bridges.

Read more from insulation technology frame house can be found.

Step-by-step instruction

So, you decided to stop on the insulation of the frame from the outside, chose foam for this purpose and are you ready to start work? Then consider step by step instructions how to insulate a building from the outside.

Façade cleaning. The cleaning of the facade includes the removal of all protrusions, dirt, chips. The surface of the wall must be put in order, it must be flat and smooth. If you are insulating a new house that did not have a finish, then the OSB boards themselves already have a flat and clean surface, so this step can be skipped. Doi with stucco finish also usually has smooth walls.
We install a level beam from below along the entire perimeter of the building, where it is planned to insulate the walls. This beam is the reference for laying foam boards. They put the first row of foam plastic on it so that the laying is on the same level.
Warming starts from the outer corner of the building.
We apply a layer of mounting foam on the slab around the perimeter without interruptions (it is advisable to draw two more lines cross-to-cross inside the perimeter). Mounting foam, on the one hand, creates a small layer of air between the wall and the foam, and it is hermetic, and on the other hand, ensures reliable fixation of the plate to the wall.
Additionally, we fix the plates with facade dowels with a large cap. Their second name is fungi. They exclude the displacement of the plates relative to the walls and provide additional fixation.
The joints between the plates must be carefully foamed.
Very soft material easy to cut, so using construction knife adjust the size to insulate the place near the doorway or window.

We read more about the insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam.

Thus, it can be seen that the process of insulating a frame building is not so complicated, and the work progresses faster if large sheets are used.

Step-by-step instructions for laying mineral wool

The step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with mineral wool have much in common with the instructions for insulating a frame building with foam from the outside.

The preparatory stage for leveling the walls.
Using a fishing line and a level, we nail a guide beam from below, on which we will put the first level of stone wool mats.
The insulation in the form of cotton wool is pressed against the wall with 75 mm self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the plates with washers (rondole) - fungi with a large hat. It is necessary to press tightly to avoid a gap between the wall and the insulation.
In order for the insulation to hold firmly, it is necessary to install a horizontal top bar and vertical bars in addition to the wall. The vertical bar is attached from above to the upper horizontal one, and from below it stands on the lower guide.
Between the bars, the insulation is inserted as tightly as possible. The rondol additionally fixes the cotton wool, for which not self-tapping screws are used, but 120 mm nails.

If you want to use rolled wool for external insulation, then first we fix it from above, using a beam, and then we unwind the roll down. We also fix cotton wool at the bottom. The crate will press the wool against the wall and fix it in one place. Inexpensive cladding will keep cotton wool dry.

Read more about mineral wool insulation.

The best video:

They are assembled in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection building materials for warming frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

The former include natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam plastic, basaltin, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast features such as:

good moisture resistance;
low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
no shrinkage and long service life;
ease of use;
safety for a person.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-established method. The material has an excellent sound absorption rate, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Wall insulation inside and out

There is no particular difference from where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside. It's more convenient for someone here. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when building a frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the vertical posts, the ideal step size between them is 580-590 mm. Such a distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established norms, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the design, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also material in 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this from the inside wooden walls the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a conventional stapler, roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm. to vertical posts. Make sure that the film is firmly attached to the surface everywhere;
Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will be the base under interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, if necessary, cutting them with an electric jigsaw.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, therefore, for its fixation, an additional method of fastening is not required, it is enough just to insert it between the racks. The plates must be tightly held there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contribute to the appearance of condensate and dampness on the inner surface. finishing which can lead to mold and mildew.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. For this, by analogy with interior walls, external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, fix it to the posts with a counter-batten.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-crate, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

In case the walls are sheathed with some other finishing material(facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to the OSB boards, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces the heat loss of the house by 25-30 % Therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with all responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate a roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last for a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and is as follows:

From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
Further from the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the places of gables and the ridge part of the roof;
The insulation is necessarily closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes from the bottom up with an overlap 5 cm.;
The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (lining, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where there is a leak 15-20% so precious in our time of warmth. Of course, you can fork out and install a system in the house, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then it will take its first steps in life on it. The time spent on yoga and reading interesting books, in addition to benefits, will also bring pleasure.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the subfloor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
Between the lag for the floor, a heater is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To eliminate the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

Overlap insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier;
Further, depending on floor covering, the floor is covered with plywood sheets, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today there are many different modern materials, which are suitable for warming houses built according to frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews from the owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

For year-round operation of a frame house and its long-term service, high-quality insulation is necessary. Everything needs to be insulated - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable to solve the problem, and what heat insulators should be abandoned? We will answer these questions and give step-by-step instructions for warming a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built according to the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood boards. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - absolutely correspond to this requirement. Popular synthetic insulations, such as foam and polymer-based analogues, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to the temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). As a result - the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
Secondly, polystyrene and its analogues do not allow the tree to "breathe". This leads to the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of mold and rotting of structural elements.

Choosing what to warm frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of the heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcome:

fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
low thermal conductivity;
shrinkage resistance;
minimum water absorption.

The choice of optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for warming a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope. The common advantages of all types of mineral wool include: low weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fibrous insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmental friendliness and fire resistance

The main component of the insulation are rocks of volcanic origin: basalt, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is an absolutely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator retains physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of mineral wool based on basalt:

low thermal conductivity - 0.36-0.42 W / m * C;
strength to mechanical stress;
good soundproofing characteristics;
resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide rapid moisture removal. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg/cu. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool compared to fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool - elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of a heat insulator are cullet and sand. The addition of binding components makes it possible to form rolls from the finest glass fibers. Approximate dimensions of the mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.

Glass wool features:

high elasticity - the material easily takes and quickly restores the given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
vibration resistance;
resistant to mold and unattractive to rodents.

Like stone wool, fiberglass is fireproof. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and a lot of "glass" dust is released during cutting.
Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of formation of cold bridges increases.

Ecowool - universality of application

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microbial attack and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

Ecowool is a loose insulation, and therefore the technology of its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a heat-insulating layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
With poor-quality insulation of the walls of a frame house, there is ecowool shrinkage risk, which is fraught with the formation of non-insulated zones.
The material is not recommended for use near open sources of fire, chimneys and chimneys. Requires a protective layer of basalt foil refractory mats or a fence of asbestos-cement slabs.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the possibility of insulation hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.

"Warm Tree" - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented wood fiber mats and boards. Technical and operational characteristics of the insulation at a fairly high level:

good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when moisture is absorbed in the amount of 20% of its own weight;
high strength and excellent sound insulation - protection against shock and "air" noise;
sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the racks of the frame without additional clamps;
environmental friendliness of the material and the safety of installation work.

Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and the ability to ignite.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step by step instructions

In most cases, for insulation frame structures used mineral wool in the form of mats. Therefore, the following briefing will be based on working with this material.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It does not matter which side to start work - from the outside or from the inside. Some believe that it is more convenient to carry out thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

The standard structure of the heat-insulating cake with the sequence of layers from the inner lining to the facade of the house:

Decorative interior decoration.
OSB board.
Vapor barrier.
insulation layer.
Windproof membrane.
Lathing of bars for arranging a ventilation gap.
OSB board.
External cladding.

Recommended pitch of frame beams - 580-590 mm. This range is best suited when using standard mineral wool mats 60 cm wide. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out cracks. mounting foam between frame members. Before fixing the insulation, it is necessary to check wooden structures for the presence of dampness, dry problem areas with a building hair dryer.

Interior finish: layer sequence

First you need to prepare the basis for laying the insulation. From the inside of the house, this role will be performed by vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

Roll out a roll of insulation material and cut it to fit the walls of the house.
Alternately fix the vapor barrier webs on the vertical racks of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: insulating strips are directed perpendicularly wooden beams, minimum overlap - 10 cm.
Check the tightness of the protective layer.
Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
Fasten the panels to the frame, overlapping the vapor barrier film.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying the finishing walls.

Insulation installation rules

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of do-it-yourself fastening. Both heat insulators are quite elastic, so they do not need additional fixation. Plates are inserted between frame racks and are held due to a slight difference in size.

In order for the heat-insulating layer not to lose its effectiveness over time, certain rules for its installation must be observed:

Laying is carried out in two layers, the plates are placed in a checkerboard pattern. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the connecting seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" that contribute to the accumulation of condensate and dampness.
Insulation plates need protection from strong winds and precipitation. By analogy with the inner wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

Film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For more secure fastening, you can use the system of counter-battens.

External wall cladding

Beams attached over the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the heat-insulating material and the exterior finish. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding different types Moisture-resistant OSB boards are nailed to the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, natural stone or facade tiles laid directly on oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of the roof of the house

Of great importance in maintaining heat is high-quality roof insulation. Thoughtful and well-executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is the placement of mineral wool between the rafter legs. roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe successively how to properly insulate a roof:

Stretch a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter-batten.
From the inside truss system put in a heater. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation scheme is a checkerboard layout.
Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing horizontal laying vapor barrier from bottom to top. Film insulation overlap - 5-10 cm.
Sheathe the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
Exterior finish the roof is carried out along the counter-batten. Lathing bars are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards or directly roofing material (slate, corrugated board, metal or flexible tiles) are attached from above.

Floor insulation on the first floor

A lot of heat also leaves through the base of the house - about 15-20% of heat costs fall on the floor. Alternatively, underfloor heating can be provided. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, passing them along the docking lines.

On top of the waterproofing, install a lag system from the boards.

Cut the insulation under the cells in the logs. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. The thickness of the insulation is at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a fine plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for warming interfloor or attic floors.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of a frame building is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. Mechanized backfill will provide the desired density and uniformity of laying.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

dry "spray";
wet application;
adhesive method.

dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor ceilings and non-separable structures. The density of laying ecowool with this method is 45-65 kg / cu. m depending on the slope.

wet technology suitable for vertical open walls. Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied under pressure to the surface. The density of the heat-insulating layer is about 65 kg / cu. m.

The adhesive method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. Advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The adhesive method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for processing walls.

The issue of home insulation must be considered at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and more technically correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to perform overhaul building after commissioning.

Do-it-yourself video instruction for thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

One of the most wonderful options for owning a home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and, moreover, quite economical in construction. However, the matter is not limited to construction. It is necessary to make a good finish to warm the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is caused, first of all, by its design.

How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. For this, there are a variety of materials. Best suited for this activity:

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

Insulation is best chosen from environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
It must be resistant to the accumulation of moisture, as well as to fire.
Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
The ratio in the insulation of quality and price.
Fire safety.
Low thermal conductivity.
Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They may be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

Thermal insulation using board materials (foam, mineral wool, and so on).
Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with the use of mounting foam.
Sleep technology. In this case, the insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other backfill materials.
Combinations may also be used. Such a scheme can often be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic is outside, and then plaster.

The order of external insulation work

When carrying out work, the exact technology of insulation plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive end result of warming should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

Hinged way of warming. In this case, a frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing directly to the surface. It can be pasted and painted. When painting waterproofing, the walls after the primer are subjected to the application of bitumen. When pasting, using bituminous mastic, a waterproofing roll material, isol, hydroisol, fiberglass. Then, in the cells of the frame, using special glue, or mounting dowels, tapes or plates of rolled insulation are attached.

At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is trimmed with decorative plates or panels. As a result, it is possible to perform fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

Styrofoam - the cheapest wall insulation

The main advantage of hinged insulation is a ventilation system that eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.
Wet insulation method. This method belongs to cheap, but at the same time, to rather laborious methods. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then it is laid on it decorative plaster. This coating is also called "light" plaster.
There is also a "heavy" plaster. It will be more difficult, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the “easy” one. It is performed as follows - insulation boards are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.
Insulation of the house with fiberboard slabs

Then comes the first layer of plaster. During the day it dries, and deformation seams are made. Next comes the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which there must be temperature-shrinkage seams. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied five days later.
Spraying liquid insulation. This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. The peculiarity is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to average heaters. After polyurethane foam, almost any coating can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.

The insulation is applied by spraying

Facing method. This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing materials can be performed on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, however, it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.

when performing work, it is important to strictly observe the insulation scheme.
in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulation layer does not become damp and, accordingly, does not collapse.

Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Sheathing of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. You can perform insulation with reinforced plaster, then puttying and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

You can also use lining panels, MDF and plastic. The most common option is upholstery with drywall sheets, after which a decorative coating is applied.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all the bumps and defects. It is environmentally friendly and fire resistant, however main difficulty its application lies in the fact that a special foam filling machine is needed.

Read about the features in the next article.