How to insulate a house made of foam blocks from the outside. Technology for insulating a house made of foam blocks How to properly insulate walls made of foam blocks from the outside

I will insulate a house made of foam concrete 30 cm thick OUTSIDE + BLOCK HOUSE. Any questions!
Blocks brand D-600 size 300x200x600 mm Wall thickness 300 mm
laying on a sand-cement mixture with a fifth of lime to retain moisture in the solution.
Information on the properties of foam concrete walls is taken from STO-00044807-001-2006:
Laying walls from small cellular concrete blocks on cement-sand mortar (γo = 1800 kt/m3 with a thickness of mortar joints of 12 mm (λ and w are determined according to GOST 26254)
Blocks made of gas and foam concrete, gas and foam silicate, density 600 kg/m3.
Thermal conductivity coefficient λB = 0.25 W/(m °C).
Heat transfer resistance of block masonry: 1.2 m2 °C/W.
The reduced heat transfer resistance of your wall is now: 1.36 m2 °C/W.
Heat loss through 1 m2 of wall at the temperatures you set: 19.14 W*h.
As an example of insulation, I took it from the same document:
Mineral wool products "Rockwool" and JSC "Mineral wool" (Zheleznodorozhny)
Mats with a density of 35 kg/m3.
Thermal conductivity coefficient λB = 0.048 W/(m °C).
With 50 mm insulation:
Reduced heat transfer resistance: 2.4 m2 °C/W.
Heat loss through 1 m2 of wall: 10.83 Wh.
With 100 mm insulation:
Reduced heat transfer resistance: 3.44 m2 °C/W.
Heat loss through 1 m2 of wall: 7.55 W*h.
With 150 mm insulation:
Reduced heat transfer resistance: 4.48 m2 °C/W.
Heat loss through 1 m2 of wall: 5.8 W*h.
Calculations may have inaccuracies. In particular, wooden sheathing is not taken into account.
So:
1. As you can see, the dependence of heat loss on the thickness of insulation is not direct. The thicker the insulation layer, the less the effect in reducing heat loss.
This relationship is true for all types of insulation. The numbers may change a little.
You will choose the required thickness of insulation yourself based on how the costs of insulation compare with the savings on heating costs.
My opinion: 50 mm is not enough.
2. Foam concrete is a material with good vapor permeability.
As insulation, it is recommended to use materials with no less (or better yet, greater) vapor permeability than foam concrete.
Mineral wool or cellulose (so-called Ecowool) or similar insulation materials. What exactly is up to you to decide again.
EPS and especially EPS are materials with low vapor permeability.
Foam concrete itself is a good heat-protecting material.
Those. at the junction of foam concrete and insulation, temperatures will be significantly lower than room temperature and the likelihood of moisture condensation increases.
3. It’s always better to insulate yourself from the outside. From the inside there are many disadvantages and problems.
In your case, it is better to plaster the inside. You can use “warm” plaster. Under no circumstances should you use drywall on the guides. Otherwise, temperature fluctuations between fillings " solid fuel"can be significant. The same applies to the ceiling and floor. Not plaster, of course, but the material must be heat-intensive.
4. Walls are far from the only thing you need to pay attention to to reduce heat loss.
P.S. I don't " experienced builder" And not a builder at all.

Foam blocks are called special building blocks white, consisting of gas silicate and foam concrete. This material is excellent for low-rise and high-rise buildings. The structure of the raw material has high adhesion to any finish, however, some property owners still decide to add additional insulation. Fastening process various types thermal insulation is simple, you can do it yourself.

The relevance of insulating foam block houses from the outside

Initially, foam concrete blocks were developed specifically for the construction of houses with single-layer walls. Due to its good heat retention properties, a building lined with foam concrete does not require additional thermal insulation. Due to the fact that winters can be harsh in the vast expanses of the country, builders recommend additional insulation of houses using various materials.

House built from foam blocks

On the other hand, foam blocks are considered a fragile raw material, and if exposed to sub-zero temperatures for a long time, they can freeze and absorb moisture. To achieve this, the walls are insulated from the outside, which provides the following advantages:

significant space savings, which cannot be said when insulating from the inside;
the integrity of the blocks is not violated, as if using internal insulation: a layer of insulation additionally protects the blocks from freezing;
Condensate does not accumulate inside, but is discharged outside, from where it is removed using air flows.

It is better to use lightweight options as finishing material on top of the insulation. For example, finishing brick will be too heavy, so most builders use paint.

Types of insulation

Application of foam plastic

One of the most popular types of insulation for finishing and thermal insulation of building facades is polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. The material has gained success due to its properties: it is completely impermeable to moisture. Polystyrene foam has good resistance to sub-zero temperatures, and its low cost can significantly reduce insulation costs.

Insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam

An important point is that on top of this type of insulation it is necessary to make Finishing work. Foam plastic is not resistant to ultraviolet radiation, so additional finishing is needed to ensure that the raw materials are not destroyed.

The most popular types of expanded polystyrene for insulating a house made of foam blocks from the outside are the following brands:

Foam plastic Knauf Therm. It has good vapor permeability and is produced in sheets of 1x1 meter. Thickness starts from 50 mm, used at temperatures from -140 to + 80 degrees. The cost of one sheet starts from 150 rubles, the cost for a pack of 10 pieces is 1450 rubles.
Carbon Eco. The size of one sheet is 1180x580x30 mm, the latter figure indicates the thickness of the material. Operating temperature from -70 to +75 degrees. The cost for a pack of 13 pieces is from 1250 rubles.
Thermal insulation Ursa XPS. Polyfoam is suitable for insulating foam block facades. Sheets are sold in sizes 1250x600x50 mm. For a pack of 8 pieces you will have to pay from 1100 rubles.

Thermal insulation URSA

When insulating, you should pay attention to the side of the house: for example, on the south side you can install insulation of a smaller thickness than on the north side.

Use of mineral wool

Inorganic material consisting of large quantity interwoven fibers is called mineral wool. This insulation is in demand no less than the above-mentioned polystyrene foam. The material contains rocks and sedimentary rocks, as well as metallurgical slags. The main advantages of mineral wool when insulating foam concrete:

high thermal insulation properties;
heat resistance;
high sound insulation;
resistance to moisture absorption;
service life: 30-40 years.

Insulation with mineral wool

The most common brand of mineral wool for insulation is the TechnoNIKOL company. It offers insulating material of the basalt type Technolight Extra. The products are supplied in a pack of 8 slabs measuring 1200x600x50 mm, while the range includes options with increased thickness. The cost of such a pack starts from 554 rubles.

Penoplex - an analogue of polystyrene foam

This material is similar in appearance to polystyrene foam, however, their production technologies differ. In the manufacture of penoplex, pressure and exposure to high temperatures are used. The result is very light, but durable material, which is otherwise called extruded polystyrene foam. This raw material is resistant to compression, environmentally friendly and resistant to moisture and mold.

On the market building materials For insulation of facades made of foam concrete, the following options for penoplex are offered:

Thermal insulation Penoplex Comfort. The slabs are produced in dimensions of 1185x585x30 mm, while the thickness can vary. The material is produced in 4, 7, 10 and 13 slabs per package. For a pack of 13 slabs you will have to pay from 1400 rubles.
Penoplex Facade. It is produced specifically for insulating facades and is available in various thicknesses from 30 to 100 mm. The cost for one sheet is from 100 rubles, depending on the thickness.

Using penoplex for thermal insulation

The thickness of penoplex insulation must comply with modern standards; it ranges from 30 mm. The slabs of material are attached to the foam concrete wall using glue or dowels.

Features of insulation technology with various materials

When heat insulating material selected, you can proceed to preparation. To do this, you need to make appropriate calculations of the amount of insulation, as well as select tools. In almost every case, it is better to do the work together with a partner, since it is more convenient to attach the dimensional sheets together.

The tools you will need are special dowels with caps; when laying foam plastic, it is also necessary to mount metal profile guides. You will need a drill, screwdriver, hammer drill. When insulating using the “wet” method, specialized glue is useful. Materials for sealing seams are also needed.

How to insulate a house made of foam blocks from the outside with foam plastic?

Before insulating a façade made of foam blocks, it is recommended to make thorough preparations. The walls must be cleaned of excess sand, dirt and debris. If there are deposits of construction mixture on the surface, they are removed using a hammer drill. The process of foam insulation step by step looks like this:

Applying a primer - it will ensure increased adhesion of the adhesive to the surface of the foam concrete.
Installing a base profile at the bottom of the wall - it will serve as a support for the insulation.
Preparation of glue is carried out using a special attachment for a drill, similar to a mixer.
Preparing foam plastic - the material must be roughened using a needle roller.
Applying glue to the foam using a spatula.
Fastening foam plates to foam concrete: carried out from the bottom up, umbrella dowels are attached to the corners and edges.

External foam insulation

When the insulation installation process is completed, you need to wait a little time for the material to shrink, and then begin finishing work.

Insulation of foam concrete with mineral wool: stages of work

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, you must have certain skills in working with it in order to carry out the process in accordance with all the rules. It is better to carry out the procedure together with a partner, according to the following instructions:

clean the walls, achieving a smooth surface;
treat the area for insulation with an antiseptic;
install fastenings for the sheathing;
attach thermal insulating gaskets;
place a guide plinth at the bottom of the wall;
insert the insulation, securing it to the dowels: they must be screwed into the wall to a depth of 40 mm;
lay a windproof membrane on top of the mineral wool.

Using mineral wool for external thermal insulation

To finish the facade of a house insulated with mineral wool, it is recommended to use plaster and further painting.

Insulation using penoplex: rules

To use penoplex for thermal insulation of a foam concrete house from the outside, it is recommended to follow a number of rules that will help preserve heat inside the room as much as possible without loss. Step-by-step instruction looks like that:

Leveling the surface of the facade, sealing cracks.
Treatment with soil mixture.
Making glue.
Gluing foam boards and then fastening them to dowels.
Installation of reinforced mesh for finishing.

In this case, the work can be done by one person, since the foam sheets are lightweight and can be quickly installed. There is no need to use additional materials for vapor barrier, because penoplex already has good properties steam penetration.

Which material is most preferable: possible harm to health

If we are concerned with the issue of operational safety, then all of the above materials will not cause harm to humans when proper installation. Each of the presented types of raw materials is manufactured using anti-flammable additives, which prevents ignition in case of fire and leads to self-extinguishing.

Comparison of different materials for heat retention

Despite the fact that formaldehyde binders are used in the production process of mineral wool, it will not emit harmful substances due to the location outside the building.

When answering the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house built from foam blocks, it should be noted that additional thermal insulation never hurts. The use of foam plastic, mineral wool or penoplex will only enhance the thermal insulation properties of foam concrete and will allow maximum heat retention inside the room.

Preface. In this article we will look at how to independently insulate a foam block house from the outside under siding and under plaster. For many owners of foam block houses, the thermal insulation of the room comes to the fore. We will tell you about the technology of using mineral wool, polystyrene foam or penoplex when insulating a foam block facade; at the end of the article, watch the video instructions for insulating the facade of a foam block house with mineral wool.

By the term “foam block”, private developers mean blocks made of foam concrete or gas silicate. This material is used today for the construction of low-rise buildings. The foam block itself is a thermal insulation layer. Previously, we told you how to insulate a house made of gas silicate with your own hands. Today we will look at the issue of independently insulating a foam block façade from the outside.

Due to their porous structure, foam concrete blocks provide excellent adhesion to any finishing material(plaster, putty). Many owners country houses from foam concrete blocks they often resort to insulating it. Is it worth it to insulate a foam block from the outside and how to properly insulate a foam block house for the winter? Read this article about the best materials to use when carrying out work.

Is it necessary to insulate a foam block house from the outside?

Many will ask, is it advisable to insulate a house from foam block? Because foam concrete was invented for the construction of buildings without additional thermal insulation, as they have a minimally low heat transfer coefficient. In this case, the problem of condensation formation between the insulation and the foam block wall naturally disappears. However, during Russian winters, a lot of money will be spent on heating the house.

Insulation of foam block with polystyrene foam with lining

For the high heat-saving qualities of the foam block, you have to pay for the low strength of the walls. Walls made of this material are quite fragile and will not be able to withstand the heavy load of “wet” or “ventilated” facades. In addition, the foam block is afraid of moisture and freezing; polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool are often used to insulate the outside of a foam block house.

Experts do not recommend carrying out self-insulation houses made of foam block from the inside, from the side of the heated room. However, if it is simply impossible to finish the walls from the street, and in winter a lot of money is spent on heating the room, then thermal insulation of the house is simply necessary. A layer of thermal insulation can maintain a warm and pleasant microclimate in the room.

How to insulate a foam block house from the outside

What is the best material to choose for external thermal insulation of foam blocks? The ideal option for this is slab material: Isover mineral wool mats, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. When using mineral wool, the material should be protected with waterproofing and a ventilated gap should be provided, which will remove excess moisture and possible condensation from the surface of the film.

Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable material that can shrink if not installed correctly. Expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam are moisture-resistant and vapor-proof materials with a low heat transfer coefficient. When laying foam plastic or penoplex slabs on the facade, the thermal insulation material should be protected with a decorative layer from mechanical damage and ultraviolet radiation.

How to insulate a foam block house from the outside

Advantages of insulating foam blocks from the outside:

1. when insulating the walls from the outside, living space is saved;

2. insulation on the outside of the house will prevent the walls from freezing in winter;

3. insulation in the room, shifts the dew point to the heated room;

4. Thermal insulation on the outside of the building will significantly extend the service life of the block walls.

How to insulate a foam block with polystyrene foam from the outside

Stages of insulating a foam block house with polystyrene foam with your own hands:

2. the façade is primed to level out the absorbency of the foam block surface;

5. The plates are glued to the facade of the house in a checkerboard pattern relative to each other;
6. We fix each polystyrene foam slab with a disc-shaped dowel in the center and at the corners of the slab;
7. A reinforcing mesh is glued to the insulation to give the necessary strength;
8. Finally, the insulation is finished with façade putty or sheathed with siding.

How to insulate a foam block with penoplex from the outside

Stages of insulating a foam block house with penoplex with your own hands:

1. the surface of the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, sagging or excess cement mortar on the facade is removed;
2. the facade is treated with a primer, which will ensure better adhesion of the glue to the surface;
3. a starting profile is attached to the bottom of the wall, protecting the insulation from the penetration of rodents;
4. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, glue for polystyrene foam is prepared;
5. glue is applied to the slabs with a spatula, and they are laid on the facade in a checkerboard pattern;
6. Each slab is additionally fixed with a disc-shaped dowel in the center and in the corners;
7. a reinforcing mesh is glued onto the sheathed façade to impart strength to the surface;
8. A layer of facade plaster is applied over the mesh; after drying, the facade is painted.

How to insulate a foam block with mineral wool from the outside

Stages of insulating a foam block house with mineral wool with your own hands:

1. the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, if necessary it is additionally leveled;
2. the wall is covered with a waterproofing film to protect the thermal insulation from getting wet;
3. a starting profile is fixed on the wall, on which the first row will be mounted;
4. Next, guides made of bars are attached to the façade, between which mineral wool is attached;
5. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, installation is carried out basalt wool between the bars;
6. then the entire structure is covered with a vapor barrier or superdiffusion membrane;
7. bars are fixed on top of the vapor barrier to create a ventilation gap of 20-30 millimeters;
8. The facade is covered with siding, PVC panels are fixed to the bars with self-tapping screws.

External insulation of a house made of foam blocks is an important component of the entire structure. After all, this is the thermal insulation of the room and, accordingly, the price for heating. Today we will look at how to properly insulate a house made of foam blocks from the outside.

Today there are a lot of materials on the retail market; if the work is done incorrectly, the money spent will not give the desired result. In the video in this article you can see how this work is done and choose the right material.

Insulation of a house made of foam blocks

Insulation of houses made of foam blocks begins with the right choice the required material. After this, calculations and purchases are made. Let's figure out in order how to insulate a house made of foam blocks from the outside and how to do it correctly.

Material

So, the better way to insulate a house made of foam blocks from the outside is not difficult to answer. The material must withstand temperature changes and high humidity.

Attention: You need to combine insulation and its thickness for each wall separately. For example, a wall with south side receives more heat. This means that the layer can be made smaller than the others. To protect the house from various rodents, the lower belt of the facade is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. The corners of the building are insulated with a thicker layer of material.

Insulation of the outside of a house made of foam blocks is most often done with the following materials:

Mineral wool

This is an inorganic material that consists of a large number of fibers intertwined with each other.
It is produced by melting rock or sedimentary rock, as well as metallurgical slag.
For insulation, several types of mineral wool are used: glass (glass fibers) and stone (rock).
Wool slabs are used for various insulation methods. “Wet” – consists of 3 layers. This is thermal insulation, a reinforcing layer and a “fur coat”. “Hinged ventilated facade” – cladding, ventilation layer, insulation, frame.
Advantages: heat resistance, high thermal insulation, resistance to damage, resistance to moisture absorption, excellent sound insulation (noise reduction up to 20%). The period of use reaches 30-40 years.

Styrofoam

This is the most common material used to insulate the walls of buildings.

Production began in the 1930s. To this day, it occupies a leading place among all insulation materials. Has very good thermal insulation. It is due to the manufacturing technology, which consists of foaming polystyrene with special equipment. As a result, small air bubbles appear.
Light weight and moisture resistant. This is ensured by the fact that the foam contains 98% air of its total mass.
Another advantage is the low cost of manufacturing and the low cost of insulation work. When finishing with foam plastic, heat loss is reduced by almost 70%.
Thanks to modern technologies, it has great fire resistance (does not burn and resists fire well). However, polystyrene foam is very easy to “give in” to small rodents. If they are present on the territory or in the premises, then the use of this type of material will have to be abandoned.

Attention: How to insulate a house made of foam blocks, you need to look at the structure itself. After all, foam plastic attracts rodents and they live well in it. Therefore, this will not be the best option for residential premises.

Preparing the walls

Now let's look at how to insulate the outside of a house made of foam blocks, and here it will be necessary to perform the right technology installation Everything can be done with your own hands, and therefore the price will be limited by the cost of materials.

High-quality and long-term operation of the insulation is due to the correct preparation of the base and base for subsequent work.

So:

First of all, all elements that protrude beyond the plane of the walls are dismantled. These are ventilation grilles, gutters, outer segments of fans and air conditioners, lighting. If communications and network engineering fall on the surface where work will be carried out, they must be removed. Decorative parts of windows and cornices are also subject to dismantling. This is very important for old houses.
Walls under a layer of plaster should be examined for stability by tapping. Deviations from verticality and unevenness can be detected using aluminum rules, plumb lines and cords. If there are problems, they are marked with chalk so as not to be missed.
When there is a large discrepancy in the level of planes on a building or there are broken and thin parts of the wall, they urgently need to be corrected or removed. Only after this should we begin work on insulating the façade.
Parts with oil paint are carefully treated because it gives poor adhesion to the surface and reduces the ability to transmit steam. Fungus, rust and mold are removed from the walls. The cracks are primed with wide brushes using special compounds that have a high degree of permeability, and puttied until completely dry. Potholes up to 2 millimeters need not be filled, but large ones can be leveled with pieces of insulation.
After completing all activities preparatory work stop. Now we begin the actual insulation with polystyrene foam.

Fastening the base profile

Insulation of a foam block house is done at one level. We must not break the geometry. Before you get started, you need to find a starting line.

So:

For this purpose, according to the project, there is an extreme point at the bottom of the surface for insulation. Then the mark is moved to all corners of the building by a hydraulic level (the principle is based on the theory of communicating vessels). The marks are connected to each other. Line found.
The base profile is attached with dowels strictly according to the markings. It is necessary to give support and prevent movement of the outer row of insulation (raw glue has greater mobility).
Depending on the width of the insulation, the starting strip is selected. It is secured with driven nails with washers at intervals of about 300-350 millimeters.
The starting bar can be connected different ways. The method used is to connect the edges using diagonal cuts or using a corner connector (for an overlap joint). To compensate for expansion under the influence of temperature, plastic elements are installed between the profiles.

Installation of external window sills

A house made of foam blocks must be insulated from the outside, taking into account all openings. It is recommended to install these sections before attaching the insulation to the façade.

Water protection strips are installed to the window:

The window sill is moved beyond the wall level by no more than 30-40 millimeters. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation on the wall. When installation on the starting profile takes place, a cavity is formed under the window sill in which water will accumulate. Pieces of insulation will help get rid of this. They are mixed with glue and plastered.
After installing the windows, there are small spaces for their subsequent insulation (about 20-30 millimeters). Here foam is used, the width is less than the standard material used. To leave room for other layers, you need to subtract 1 centimeter from the thickness. To insulate external slopes, the foam does not need to be cut. It can protrude 1 centimeter beyond the level.

Glue solution

The glue is able to quickly harden and harden. To do this, when gluing the insulation, you need to prepare the exact amount of solution required for a given period of time.

Take a bucket and pour the dry mixture into it. Fill with water in the required proportion. The entire mixture is mixed with a drill at low speeds until a homogeneous mass is formed (no lumps). A time delay is required (about 5 minutes), and mixing is repeated for another minute.
When the adhesive mass begins to harden, it needs to be mixed again. It is strictly not recommended to use plain water to dilute the density. Depending on the thickness, you can combine methods of applying the solution. This compensates for differences in planes.
A strip of glue (about 2 centimeters high) is spread on the sides of the insulation plate. Beacons are placed evenly in the middle. This will help if the unevenness is large (more than 15 millimeters). Less - stripes are applied both around the perimeter and in the middle. They are 3-4 centimeters wide. The glue should occupy half the sheet or a little more (50-60%).

Insulation sticker

The slopes have already been insulated, the window sills are in place - the wallpapering of the walls begins. The facade is insulated using a certain technology. Fixation first with glue and then with dowels.

Attention: It should be said right away that when fastening the insulation should not be deformed, otherwise it will lose its properties.

The process begins from the bottom, where the installed bar is located. Use 2 spatulas. The first is designed to apply glue to the second. The small one measures about 8 centimeters, and the large one measures at least 20.
The adhesive mixture should be applied only to the wall, and not to the sheet area. The uneven configuration of the wall allows you to apply more mass. This is necessary when there is unevenness. Once leveled, the solution spreads in a straight line and unevenly. The sheets are fastened in a T-shape.
When laying the sheets in place, you need to leave a small gap (2-3 cm). Then it is pressed with a rule or a long trowel to the level of adjacent slabs. Excess glue protrudes along the base and inside. They should be removed. The verticality of the slabs is checked with a level, and the flatness is checked with control threads.
The foam is pressed one to one at a short distance (about 2 millimeters). Under no circumstances should the adhesive solution get into the seams between the boards. If this does happen, then the distance is filled with separate small pieces or foamed. The threshold between the joints must be no more than 3 millimeters.
A prerequisite is that joints and slopes near doors and windows do not fall into one perpendicular line. The combination must be either higher or lower. The distance is at least 20 centimeters. If a situation arises where the slabs are glued to different materials(brick turns into wood), then it is necessary to leave a minimum gap of 10 centimeters without joining.
The corners of the facades have a different connection method (notched). This applies to both external and internal. To prevent the formation of cracks, it is necessary that the arrangement of the slabs does not result in a long seam in the vertical direction. This can be avoided by wedging the outer rows into the area of adjacent walls. Release must be maintained for re-layering on slopes and corners. When the glue has hardened and the angle has been determined, the foam can be slightly trimmed or sanded. It is trimmed with a large knife or saw using a square or metal ruler. This will allow you to cut smoothly and accurately. Do not touch the already glued board. The connection between the material and the wall will be disrupted. If it needs to be corrected, then the mixture is reapplied and glued in a new way.
Now you need to wait a certain period of time. At least 3 days. This will allow the glue to set properly, and the material will take its normal position. If insulation is done independently without professionals, as well as other help, it is recommended to do this separate sections. One part is made from below from the ground, the second from above using scaffolding (scaffolding). In order not to drag them back and forth, you need to glue the material first from the lower level.
When the entire house is insulated at one time, the foam sheets will remain outdoors for at least a couple of weeks. The sun will dry it out, and the rain will add moisture. Such impacts will significantly reduce the quality of the material. The processed areas should be at least as wide as the scaffolding and as tall as the worker.

Nailing insulation

It is also not recommended to nail slabs with fresh mortar. This causes the adhesive mass to get under the sheet, which will inevitably lead to peeling of the edges.

So:

Special dowels are used to attach the insulation. They are called fungi. This is a plastic sleeve with a cap on top large diameter. A metal or plastic nail is driven into it. Metal is not recommended because it costs more (increases the cost of repairs) and has good cold air conductivity.
Nail distribution density per 1 square meter is 6-8 pieces. They are attached to the center and corners of the insulation sheet. If the house is large and large slabs are used, then additional fastening of the sheets is necessary. This will allow it to meet reliability and stability, as well as wind loads. Dowels are driven into the corners of the building and near the slopes at a distance of 20 centimeters from the border of the slab.
Holes of the required diameter and depth are drilled using a hammer drill. Before attaching the dowels, all dust is removed. The length should be slightly longer (1-1.5 cm) than the rod. This will prevent any loose debris from interfering with the installation of the dowel. The length of the fungus is calculated as follows: take the thickness of the insulation sheet, add 10 millimeters to other layers and add it to the amount of penetration into the wall (about 40 millimeters).
The dowel is inserted into the resulting hole and fixed. Take a rubber hammer, and if you don’t have one, you can use your own fists.
The fixation of the dowel should be level with the insulation or slightly higher than it (no more than 1 millimeter).

Attention: There are times when the cap protrudes and does not extend further. This means that the cone is deformed or the hole is not drilled deep enough. It was clogged with debris. The plastic fungus is pulled out, the dirt is cleaned out and the hole is made deeper. The dowel is inserted back and fixed in place.

Reinforced layer

It is used to protect insulation. For this, an adhesive solution and a fiberglass mesh are used.

Separate pieces of reinforcing mesh are used to glue corners and openings. Dimensions: 200×300 mm. You can take more. This will eliminate the occurrence of cracks from temperature changes and mechanical stress inside the corners.
To ensure that all corners of the building, decorative protrusions and slopes are not chipped and are strong, they are reinforced with perforated corners. They are made of plastic or aluminum and come with a mesh. The solution is applied, the corner is pressed firmly and leveled in all planes. Before installation, the perforated angle is adjusted to the required size.
If excess glue comes out, it must be pulled onto the wall. The corner has holes, thanks to which you can use nails to align and tension it on the slab. Wait time for the initial layer to completely harden. Afterwards the reinforcing mesh is installed.
To strengthen the insulation, a special mesh is used, which is designed for such work. It consists of glass fibers that are impregnated with alkaline substances. Thanks to this, it can withstand the necessary loads. To protect the mesh from influences, a special solution is used. It differs from the adhesive mixture that is used to attach the insulation to the facade.
Before you begin installing the mesh, the slabs must be prepared. They are sanded by hand with floats or high-grit sandpaper for rough work. This will eliminate any unevenness that may have formed at the joints. After processing, all resulting debris (dust, dirt, abrasive particles) must be removed. The height of the walls is measured and the mesh is cut into strips according to this size. The glue is applied in strips equal to the width of the resulting mesh pieces.
It is best to apply the solution using a metal float. The layer should be uniform and not thick. Approximately 2 mm. After application, the mesh is unwound to its entire length and applied to the plane. You need to press it in with a smooth spatula. After this, the edges are aligned. Movements start from the center. Excess glue is smoothed over the surface.
While the solution has not hardened, an additional layer is applied. Once it is aligned, the grid should not be visible. Now you should wait until everything dries and hardens. Everything is finally sanded with sandpaper, and small recesses are puttied. After 3 days, the walls will be dry and ready for quartz priming. This will facilitate the process of subsequent decorative plastering.

Insulating a house made of foam blocks from the outside is a rather important issue. There is no need to rush here, but everything must be done carefully and thoroughly. Look at the photo and make a plan for completing the work; the instructions will not allow you to miss the details.

Insulation is a very important step in preparing for winter. Therefore, it is important to understand how to properly insulate a house, and what you should know to keep your room warm.

As practice shows, up to 30% of heat is lost due to poor wall insulation.

This can be caused by incorrect design, the use of old building materials, as well as complete disregard for basic standards.

Insulation can be carried out both inside the house and outside. Walls, ceilings, floors, and windows can be insulated. But experts say that the most effective is external insulation of the walls of the house.

The technology for insulating a house is very similar, and in this article we will look at the external insulation method as a more effective method.

The following materials are suitable for insulation both outside and inside:

The most effective look insulation is considered to be external wall insulation. This type of insulation has its undeniable advantages.: reliably protects the entire structure from unfavorable natural conditions (rain, wind, snowfall, etc.), helps to increase the level of sound insulation, and blocks the manifestations of fungus and mold (from inside the house).

Differences in insulation

The main property of this type of insulation is to minimize heat loss in the cold season, as well as reduce heating in hot weather. summer days. Plus, keeping your walls warm can save you a lot on your heating bill.

This operation can be carried out various materials , which differ according to the type of raw material itself:

organic;
inorganic;
mixed.

There are many types of materials on the construction products market, which will help make the walls warm, and consequently increase the energy efficiency of the entire house:

mineral wool– a special fibrous material that can be obtained by melting rocks, various types of metallurgical slags and their mixtures. A fairly common material for wall insulation, it is found in the form of a roll or slabs. There are several options for such cotton wool, which differ in their density;
glass wool. It is a fibrous material (mineral fiber, similar in its properties to mineral wool). Can also be found in rolls or slabs. There are several material options that differ in density and thermal conductivity;
polystyrene foam, also known as polystyrene foam. Gas-filled plastic that has many air bubbles. It can only be found in slabs. It varies in density and degree of flammability.

Types of thermal insulation

All these materials are necessary to insulate the house from the outside.

How to attach the material

The following types of fastening of insulation materials can be distinguished:

fastening the selected material using various types of adhesive mixtures. After their application, finishing is carried out with plaster;
a method of installing material in which a small gap is specially created. The wall is mounted with just one brick. A special solution is used for this. This installation method is called - three-layer non-ventilated wall;
ventilated facade. First, the wall is protected with special waterproofing, on top of which the insulation itself is already attached, and then the wind protection is installed and, of course, the outer cladding is installed on the frame itself. This could be clapboard or siding.

It is worth noting that each of the technologies has its own advantages and its own implementation nuances.

Methods of external insulation

Before you begin the operation of insulating a house, you should understand that the choice of material depends on the specific conditions of its use. Having studied the possible insulation materials, we can note the following pros and cons of each of them:

cotton insulation. All their varieties have good soundproofing properties, unlike polystyrene foam (when using polystyrene foam, it is worth in addition using contractions for sound insulation);
cotton-type materials are afraid of moisture, and this is quite logical. Just 2% wetness is enough, and the properties of such insulation drop by 50%. Be sure to store the material in places where there is no moisture;
polystyrene foam is a flammable material, and it is best to choose the one that belongs to group G1.

Before you begin the insulation process, it is worth understanding how the wall pie works and what you need to know in order to insulate the walls correctly and competently.

A house made of foam blocks is a fairly popular design that has its advantages. This structure is based on a very rigid structure of certain vertical posts with horizontal jumpers. Small cells are formed into which the insulation itself is placed (the one that was determined in advance).

wall pie

Despite the fact that a wall pie of this design is quite simple, it has its own nuances and must be performed in accordance with all the rules.

This wall consists of:

outer layer, also known as the facing layer;
membrane of special design;
the place where the insulation is installed is the sheathing. Mineral wool is most often used as insulation;
sheets of vapor barrier material;
the last layer is the lining on the inside.

wall pie

Despite the fact that a house made of foam blocks is built so that its walls suffer minimal heat loss, it also needs to be insulated.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

To ensure that wall insulation does not go in vain, it is worth remembering all the necessary steps, one of which is installation of vapor barrier. This operation is necessary in order to provide the structure with protection from moisture. It is especially relevant in damp rooms.

A procedure such as vapor barrier represents a certain kind of barrier between water vapor and insulation.

When working with such material, you must be extremely careful not to stretch the coating too much so that the film does not tear.

Depending on the type of walls, the vapor barrier procedure may be different:

if the walls are processed inside the house. It is worth remembering that the film is applied horizontally, from bottom to top. The fastening process itself is carried out using a stapler or small nails. The film is applied with an overlap, the joint of which should be at least 15 cm. After which, the vapor barrier layer is secured with a wooden frame. It is worth understanding that the quality of the procedure depends on the quality of the film. It is worth buying high-quality and modern materials;
vapor barrier for siding. If you are planning to cover your house with siding, you should not neglect the vapor barrier. It is best to use foil film. The insulation itself is produced with the reflective side facing out. The procedure is the same as for interior work;
For. A feature of houses of this type is the absence of a rigid base, and as a result, the vapor barrier procedure is carried out between the racks. This type of house cannot be delivered without a vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

NOTE!

Along with vapor barrier, there is another way to protect a structure from moisture - waterproofing. To get a 100% positive effect, use these two methods simultaneously.

During this procedure, the following materials are used:

roofing material. Special cardboard, which in turn is impregnated with petroleum bitumen, and is coated on both sides with refractory resin;
roofing felt— cardboard, which is treated with a tar composition;
glassine, which is impregnated with bitumen;
waterproofing membranes are the most best option .

A wall that will give your home warmth and protect it from moisture should consist of the following layers: a wall, a vapor barrier layer, insulation (most often mineral wool), and a waterproofing film.

Insulation of a facade made of foam blocks from the outside under siding

The walls of the house may be uneven, and there is nothing to worry about. But the insulation process itself must be carried out on smooth surfaces, what to do in such a situation? For this purpose, metal or wooden sheathing . It is this that will help hide various types of imperfections on the facade of the building.

The rules for installing such material are simple:

before you start installing the sheathing on the facade, you should clean it of dust and dirt (you can use sandblasting);
Do not under any circumstances carry out the process of installing such sheathing at temperatures below -10 degrees;
you must leave room for insulation (for example, mineral wool);
when installing sheathing no need to screw in the screws all the way(all the way);
the lathing has its own pitch and it must be chosen based on the dimensions of the façade panels themselves.

Lathing for siding

After this procedure, you can begin to insulate the facade. Step-by-step instructions on how to insulate the facade of foam blocks using mineral wool:

The first thing to do is to free the entire façade of the house from dirt and dust. Also remove various brackets, communications, and so on. Make the walls “bare”;
be sure to seal all cracks and cracks with a special solution;
let it dry, then apply antifungal agents (you can buy them at hardware store). There is no need to apply to all walls, do it only where there is a wall that will be exposed to moisture. This is necessary to prevent mold and mildew;
install the sheathing, preferably from metal frames;
lay a vapor barrier;
start laying mineral wool slabs. Experts advise using cotton wool specifically in slabs, since working with rolls is not convenient and will bring many problems.
after the insulation material has been laid out, it is worth applying waterproofing;
carry out the process of siding (vinyl/metal);
on the building materials market, you can find mineral wool different sizes, but the best option is a slab 10 centimeters thick.

Mineral wool installation diagram

Lathing with metal profile

Useful video

Insulation of a house made of foam blocks under siding:

Conclusion

It is quite possible to insulate a foam concrete house yourself. It is important to properly treat the walls before covering them with insulation. Depending on what kind of house you have and what material it is built from, the insulation procedure may differ slightly.

Whatever material you choose for wall insulation, you need to do everything strictly according to the rules, and then your home will be warm. If you don’t know which material is better to choose, mineral wool or polystyrene foam, consult with the experts. But as practice shows, mineral wool/glass wool is most often used, as it has many advantages.

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