Additional strip to the door frame. Installation of extensions and platbands on interior doors. Selection of planks by size

Not everyone imagines what extras installed on interior doors. Meanwhile, these elements give the door a finished look. Their installation is not difficult and can be done with your own hands, especially after watching a video with detailed explanations and photos.

What are extras

Visually, they look like horizontal and vertical planks with different textures and sizes. They are installed between the door frame and the platbands, either with your own hands or with the help of specialists.

Additional strips have not only a functional value - strengthening the door frame, but also an aesthetic one - they mask defects on slopes. The materials used for their manufacture are:

board - most often coniferous;
Fibreboard, MDF, chipboard, laminated or veneered.

An industrial additional board is a frame made of wood with thin MDF sheets attached to it, which have honeycombs inside, which makes them lightweight, making installation easier. The covering of the extensions matches the color of the door frame and the door itself.

What types of extensions are there for interior doors?

The most popular planks are available for sale: different sizes- from 7 to 40 cm. All extensions are divided into 2 main types. They are:

Standard straight

Advice: if you need to install extensions on a previously installed interior door, add attachment elements that fit closely to the frame and those that are slipped under it - linings.

How to properly install extensions on doors between rooms

Do-it-yourself additional boards are installed not only when installing a new door, but also on existing doors. The easiest way to attach the extensions is when installing a new structure installed together with the door frame. They must be placed in the form of the letter “P”. The installation procedure is as follows:

Stable stools of the same height are placed in a row and the door frame is placed on them, with the inner side being on top.
They check whether all angles are equal to 90 degrees, for which they measure the diagonals - their sizes must match.
Using a milling cutter, select a groove for the extensions, if it is missing. Its depth and width must correspond to the thickness of the additional strip.

A frame is mounted along the contour of the frame under the door, but not solid, but in separate strips of plasterboard or plywood sheet. It is enough to put 2 pieces at the top, and 3 on the sides. It is recommended to fasten plywood with nails, and drywall with self-tapping screws.

Cut out the top element according to the size of the upper groove, and the side parts of the extension according to the length of the side parts of the door frame.
Lubricate with mounting adhesive or liquid nails edges of the groove.
Insert the extensions and allow time for the glue to harden.

The temporary frame is dismantled, then the door frame is installed.
Align the box: adjust the width dimensions using spacers, checking the verticality of the side parts with a plumb line. The horizontality of the top is achieved by installing wedges under the side parts of the box.

Seal the cracks with foam and apply a layer of plaster flush with the wall.

They install the trim and skirting boards - the installation of the door with extensions is done with your own hands.

Installation of standard simple extensions with self-tapping screws

Do-it-yourself installation is performed in several steps:

Determine the width and trim off the excess.
Screw the plank to the wall.
Adjust the side parts to size.

No matter what complex operations you have to perform when installing the extensions, the result is worth it. Once you do everything yourself, you will be convinced of this.

How to install an extension on a door: video

Types of additions and their features

Doors play an important role in the interior of any room. That is why their installation and design should be approached with great responsibility. In order for doors to have an aesthetic appearance, they are usually equipped with additional strips. What function do extensions for interior doors perform and how to install them correctly? You will learn the answers to this and other questions from the article.

What is dobor?

The products are special strips, which can be horizontal and vertical, of different sizes and textures. They are installed in the doorway between the platband and the frame. The need for this arises when it is necessary to disguise defects and add aesthetics to the door.

What else are extensions needed for – to hide the missing width of the door frame. It is for this reason that the name appeared - an additional cover, that is, covering wide slopes at openings. In a standard room there are enough boxes, but if the apartment or house is built according to an individual project, then the platbands do not cope with their task; the extensions help to hide the “bare” side walls. Then the design and interior take on a complete look.

Considering the importance of the element, it is worth taking into account that the additional board should be as similar as possible to the door leaf in texture, color and style.

Reasons for installing planks

Door extensions are needed in cases where the openings in the room are too wide.

To make it more clear, let's give an example. The width of the wall is 200 mm. 70 mm of them will be covered by the box and 130 mm will be covered with additional panels. We add 20-30 mm for the groove and get the required size of the strip (150-160 mm). An additional element is needed only if the platbands are planned on both sides: internal and external.

Decorating the doorway with extensions is a relatively new trend that is gaining popularity. When thinking about how to expand a door frame, it is better to use specially prepared strips. Since the existing platband will not hide the empty wall. The extensions are available in different widths and lengths, so they will completely cover the space between the slopes and the door leaf.

Materials and design features

Depending on the shape and method of fastening, the types of extensions can be as follows:

They make elements from the most different materials. Depending on the raw materials used, extensions for interior doors can be wooden, plastic or MDF.

Wood The accessories are usually made from natural wood. Ash, beech, oak and coniferous species are used. Additional timber can be edged or tongue-and-groove. It is extremely important that the door leaf and the additional element are made of the same material. This will avoid visual dissonance.

Drawing from MDF is the most popular. It is lightweight, resistant to mechanical damage and easy to install. It is made from fine fiber fraction and covered on top with laminated film or natural veneer. Such extensions will be a good addition to both wooden and hollow-core doors. door leaf.

Elements from PVC or simply plastic Door accessories can be classified as budget options. They are low cost, easy to install and do not require additional maintenance. Most often used for entrance doors.

How to choose the right additional elements

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a material for additional products is their compatibility with the door leaf. As mentioned earlier, for reliability and harmonious design they must be made from the same raw material. It is best to purchase the elements together with the doors.

The quality of the chosen material is also extremely important. The plank should not have any chips or cracks. A flat and smooth surface without defects indicates good quality products.

If your choice fell on telescopic extensions for interior doors, then in this case, first of all, you need to make sure that fasteners are available. These must be special factory grooves, the shape and dimensions of which are individually selected for all interior doors.

It is worth taking into account the price-quality ratio of the selected product. It is best to give preference to trusted brands and manufacturers. Cheap analogues are unlikely to be of high quality.

Before purchasing a product, you need to calculate exactly how many additional elements are needed. As a standard, 2.5 slats are installed on the door.

Door trims are available in any size, but standard trims are most suitable for interior units. The thickness of the additional element must correspond to the thickness of the groove located on the very door frame. As a rule, it ranges from 10 mm to 16 mm. The most suitable width of extensions for interior doors ranges from 70 to 200 mm. If it turns out to be a little larger, then it is adjusted by cutting. The height of the parts is 2100 mm.

Except standard sizes, the planks are made from the material required by the customer and of suitable dimensions. Those who live in an apartment or house with an unusual layout are forced to resort to this option.

To independently determine the parameters of the extension, you need to measure the thickness of the wall, the height and width of the doorway. It is necessary to add a small margin of 1-2 cm to the obtained measurements. This is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of error.

Do-it-yourself installation of extensions on interior doors

Korovin Sergey Dmitrievich

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

To give the doors a finishing touch, special strips are installed. Let's look at how to choose the dimensions of the extensions for interior doors and correctly install all the elements.

What is a door accessory?

Extensions are specialized planks that differ in parameters and textures. They are attached to openings and cover slopes.

They are placed in several situations:

If the width of the box does not correspond to the thickness of the wall (masking irregularities, sealing slopes);
To strengthen the mounted canvas and eliminate distortions.

Rice. 1. Door block with extensions

Accessories for interior doors are important detail, so they must be selected according to the style, shade and structure of the panel (looks like a frame). They are bought as a set to avoid mistakes. The panels can be mounted in already installed or new doors on one or both sides of the opening (according to the location of the frame).

Mounted extensions look prestigious and, based on the overall style, make the interior solid, luxurious or discreet. They are fixed quickly and easily, which saves time and money. When finishing, the door block does not come into contact with wet compounds, does not get wet and does not deteriorate. This prolongs the life of the structure. Compared to standard slopes, the additional board becomes an extension of the missing width of the box.

What types of extras are there?

Everyone chooses their own technique for installing planks; you can do this yourself or turn to professionals. A flat, tongue-and-groove or edged board is suitable for the manufacture of elements.

If the walls are thicker or the installation is carried out in a damp room, then waterproof plywood, which resists various deformations (delamination, cracks), is considered suitable. Extensions made in production look more aesthetically pleasing and economical. The main material is MDF panel, covered with a decorative layer. In addition to the fact that the finished boards have different dimensions (length 80-550 mm), they differ in the type of material and cost.

Based on the type of construction, the following options for additions are distinguished:

telescopic;
standard without edge;
standard with edge;
combined.

Rice. 2. Types of extras

Standard elements are simple laminate or MDF slats, covered with veneer, other coating or without it. Based on the quality of the end processing, they may have an edge. Some experts believe that there is no need to glue the facing edge to the edges, since one end is in close contact with the door frame, and the other is covered by the platband. In such a situation, it will be necessary to carry out the installation carefully, since even with a slight deviation the raw edge will become noticeable.

If you cover the end of the plank in advance with an edging tape of the appropriate shade, then minor imperfections will not be noticeable. The cost of the edge is low, and it can be glued quickly with a simple iron. Edging the ends will be preferable, as it prevents swelling of the material from moisture.

A telescopic (stacked) element has a more complex design, which can be attached to another thanks to a special ridge and groove on the edge. With its help you can line an opening of any width. The principle of its manufacture is identical to lining. Telescopic extensions differ in shade, thickness and type of material. The bar is placed in a groove where it can be adjusted, wedging deeper or plunging to a shallow depth. Installation does not require the use of fasteners. Typically, telescopic products correspond to the material of the panel, therefore they are made of plastic or wood.

The combined plank has an angular shape, since it simultaneously plays the role of a platband and an extension. For the production of planks, MDF, fiberboard, and waterproof plywood are used, which are veneered or covered with decorative film.

Do I need an extension for the door frame?

In any room, doors and frames differ in parameters and characteristics. For example, in the bathroom their dimensions are narrower than those of the interior rooms, while the entrance doors are more spacious. That's why there are standards and size ranges.

When measuring the width of the box, it is necessary to determine the indicators of the opening and panel, since all characteristics are interrelated.

Rice. 3. Scheme and composition of the strip

Regardless of the convenience and aesthetics of the extensions, they do not always need to be installed. Their installation is carried out only in a situation where the width of the box is less than the wall opening for framing.

How to choose the right type and size

The planks can be made with your own hands or purchased ready-made. The construction market offers additional components with standard parameters(0.7-2.5 cm wide, 0.6-3 cm thick and 2.1 m long).

To determine the required panel width, add the size of the slope to the depth of the box groove. With very thick walls, the plank can be 40 cm thick, but it will need to be ordered individually (its parameters should not exceed the dimensions of the groove in the box).

To make the slats yourself, you should take wood, MDF, chipboard or plastic.

When using natural wood, it is coated with antiseptic compounds to protect it from rotting and prolong its service life. Homemade MDF products will differ from purchased ones, since in the latter the cavity between the boards is filled with cellular material. Chipboards are worse than MDF or wood panels in terms of operation and aesthetics, but they can be used indoors.

Planks are less often made of plastic, but if this happens, then metal-reinforced PVC panels are used.

Rice. 3. Variety of planks

Installation of additional panels

The following tools are used to fasten the panels into the opening: level, plane, tape measure, jigsaw, hammer and sharp knife. The building materials you will need are foam, fasteners and planks. To install the products correctly, you must follow the instructions.

Installation of any types of extensions on interior doors can be done in several ways:

Slot mounting. If you plan to use planks, then it is desirable that the box has a special groove. This will speed up the installation process and allow you to slightly extend (or push) the bar inward, increasing accuracy.

Rice. 4 Taking measurements and installing the strip

The box must be fixed in the opening, so before placing it, measure the distance from it to the edge of the wall. The size of each slope is made separately at at least 4 points using a construction square. Usually these indicators differ. The width of the slope is added to the depth of the groove in the box, resulting in the parameters of the plank. You can trim the extension with a saw or jigsaw to the optimal size.

When using telescopic products, platbands and a box of the same type are selected. The assembly of the block is carried out like a construction set, by inserting protrusions into the recesses of the parts. Glue provides additional strength to the panels and trim.

Installation without groove. If there is no groove in the box, then the elements are attached tightly. Such an installation requires precise measurements, detailed adjustment of elements and accuracy.

Rice. 5. Fastening with self-tapping screws

The size of the slopes is determined similarly to the first installation method, the parts are trimmed, and an edge is glued to the cuts. Nails are driven into the end parts at intervals of 20-25 cm and their heads are bitten off with pliers. Then the side planks are placed, after which the top one is at a right angle and nailed with a hammer.

Fastening with self-tapping screws. The width of the extension is determined, which is screwed to the wall, the side parts are adjusted to size. Holes are made for self-tapping screws and screwed to the wall. After sealing the joints, the casing is attached, and furniture plugs are installed to mask the screws.

Eliminating gaps after installation

The immobility of the extensions can be ensured by fixing them with masking tape to the frame and walls. Spacers are placed between the two elements, and if they are missing, the gap is filled with foam. You should take a balloon and introduce foam in small portions (so that the structure does not move). After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife at the level of the wall.

Door extensions allow you to aesthetically design the opening. With minimal skills in handling glue, nails, saws and foam, such work can be done independently.

Dimensions of extensions for interior doors

To complete the framing of the doorway, special strips are used - extensions for interior doors, the dimensions of which depend on the parameters of the entire entrance block. To select auxiliary parts, you will need to correctly calculate the length, width and thickness of the elements. You can also adjust the dimensions of the additional boards according to the data received during the installation process.

Materials, design features, types of accessories

Additional strips are used to mask slopes in cases where the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall. Inserts are placed in the space between the trim and the frame. Materials additional elements are selected in accordance with the canvas. To ensure that the color and texture of the decorative inserts match the doors, it is recommended to purchase the entrance structure as a complete set.

Materials from which the planks are made:

three-layer plastic panels, reinforced with metal;
from wood species;
MDF and chipboard panels;
covered with laminate.

Types of extensions in accordance with installation technology:

Standard - ordinary slats, often covered with eco-veneer. The edges of the plank can be raw or framed with edge tape. If there is no edge, you will need to perform installation work more carefully. The smallest imperfections are visible at the ends without an edge film. The protective layer also prevents the panel from deforming when exposed to moisture and temperature fluctuations. You can glue the film yourself using an iron.
Combined - angular-shaped elements that combine extensions and platbands in one piece. Used for narrow floors. They are built into grooves located in the box.
Telescopic - a complex design that involves fastening using ridges and grooves. The edge of the plank is inserted at different depths and can decorate walls of any width. Installation does not require additional fastening.

Standard sizes of door panels

The dimensions of the door extensions correspond to the average dimensions of the door leaf:

Standard height is 200-220 cm.
The approximate thickness of the strip is 10 cm. These dimensions ensure that the insert is tightly fastened into the hole in the box.
The width of the elements depends on the thickness of the interior partition. In this regard, the parameters of the slats can be different - 3-20 cm or more.

For private homes and individual layouts, ready-made inserts are not always suitable. It is necessary to order the manufacture of the entrance structure with additional components of a suitable size.

Rules for calculating the width and length of the extension

The width of the extensions is calculated according to the following principle:

If there are grooves in the box, it is necessary to take into account the recess into which part of the strip is built.
The width of the remaining opening is measured from the frame to the edge of the wall.
Additional parameters are determined based on maximum point measurements.
If measurements are taken before installation or after dismantling door design, the width of the strip is calculated as the difference between the thickness of the wall and the width of the future box.

Important! Measurements must be taken separately for the top and side panels in at least several places. The surface of the walls is often uneven.

The length of the panel is equal to the height of the side posts of the box. When calculating the dimensions of individual parts of the entrance structure, generally accepted standards must be taken into account.

Basic requirements for the dimensions of the door block, according to GOST:

the gap between the box and the wall should be 10-15 mm;
the perimeter distance between the canvas and the loot is 3 mm;
the gap between the door and the floor in the absence of a threshold is 10 mm;
To improve sound and heat insulation, sealing strips or sealant are used.

If the parameters of additional inserts do not comply with regulatory requirements, you need to adjust the dimensions manually using tools.

How to determine the required thickness

The thickness of the additional board should not exceed the dimensions of the groove in the box. The average value ranges from 10-16 mm.

Factory strips are produced in standard sizes, depending on the parameters of the partition:

if the wall width is up to 9 cm, then the thickness of the decorative insert is 1.5 cm;
up to 16.5 cm - 1.5/2.5 cm;
up to 26.5 cm - 2.5 cm.

The maximum thickness of finished panels is 3 cm. For non-standard openings, extensions are made to order.

For interior structures, planks of average thickness up to 1.4-1.5 cm are sufficient, and for entrance doors it is recommended to use extensions of 1.5-2.5 cm or more.

What to do if the dimensions of the extensions are not suitable

There are situations when the size of the extensions is larger or smaller than the remaining uncovered section of the wall. If it is not possible to order new strips, you can adjust the inserts yourself.

If the elements are too wide, you will only need to carefully reduce the size of the board using available tools (saw, hacksaw). On the front side you need to make a groove for installing platbands. Difficulties may arise with telescopic slats. The ends of the plank are equipped with grooves on both sides. Such boards are sawn lengthwise, the tenons are cut off from the platbands and nailed to the smooth edge of the board with nails or pins.

For overly wide walls, several additional elements are used for cladding, combined with furniture clips, glue, hardboard strips, and thin wooden blocks. Telescopic structures are connected by specially prepared thin strips, which are placed in the recess of two adjacent ends.

Another way is to select a plastic insert to match the color of the block and sew up the area with the bare wall. It is better to glue onto colorless silicone. This mount can be easily dismantled if something needs to be changed or corrected.

If you plan to line the passage yourself, it is better to buy parts with a margin in measurements. Additional centimeters may be needed to correct flaws or errors in calculations. It is also recommended to select all the components of the structure at the same time, so as not to make a mistake with the shade and texture of the finished block.

06.04.2014 07:00

When buying interior doors we come across the following phrases: "if you need to install extras, then..." , will you need extras?"... and so on. So what is dobor or dobor? I'll try to explain in detail:

What kind of extras are there?

The extension is a “board” a little more than 2 meters long (207-215 cm), usually 10 mm thick, which on one side is finished in the same color as our door. But the width dimensions, depending on the door model, come in different standards, the most common sizes of extension widths are: 10 cm, 12 cm and 15 cm, less often - 20 cm, there are extensions even 40 cm wide. If you need even wider additions, then this is already to order. I don’t see the point in making them even wider than 20 cm, since you can always make a composite extension (combine them), which is much easier than installing a 40 cm wide extension.

So what are extras needed for?

In order to increase (increase) the width of the door frame, the width of which is less than the thickness of the doorway wall. For example, the thickness of the wall in the opening where we want to install the door is 17 cm, and the width of the door frame is 7 cm, it follows that we need to add 17-7 = 10 cm. Let’s also take into account that the additional board is usually inserted 1 cm inside (in the groove on the back of the box). This means we will need additional boards 11 cm wide. We look at the existing standards and, if there are 12 cm, then we take 2.5 sticks (extension boards) for this opening. The door installer will cut off the extra centimeter himself. If there is no 12, but there are 15 cm, then we take them.

Another example: The thickness of the wall of the doorway is 8 cm at the bottom, and 7-7.5 cm at the top. What to do? It turns out that we need an addition (we calculate by the maximum width) 8 -7 +1 = 2 cm? Do such extras exist? You are unlikely to find an extension board of this width, the answer is simple - for 1 opening we will need 1.5 extension boards 10 cm wide (that is, the installer will split 1 extension board into two, and insert the cut side of the extension into the groove of the box). The given examples of calculating additional fees are suitable for standard type extensions, whose platbands are not telescopic. If you have telescopic trims (look from the end G- shaped), that is, the platbands are inserted with their protruding tenon into the groove of the box and thereby allow you to push out a little more in some places, and less in others in the range 0-1.5 cm. So, using telescopic frame, we will do without add-ons for openings with a wall thickness of up to 9 cm for the majority of door types, as well as for doors Dors profile , despite the fact that the platbands for these doors have a spike 2 cm. That is, if your wall thickness varies from 8.5 to 10 cm, then additional work will be needed here! An experienced craftsman will cut the groove flange on the door frame in a circle and secure the sawn extension with screws or studs. This is a difficult moment in the work, and not a single door manufacturer will show you this method of fastening the extension. Use it!))

In general about telescopic platbands I want to say a lot more. Indeed, a monument to that inventor needs to be erected. After all, the advantage of telescopes is not only that we save on additions, judging by the examples above, but we also gain a lot in the aesthetic design of the door, with uneven walls of the opening! In order for your door to close tightly (correctly), the left and right walls of the doorway must be in the same plane, and not like a propeller! In reality, this rarely happens, especially if the repair of the walls was not carried out according to the lighthouses. So this is where telescopic platbands really help us! That is, we can recess the door frame a little (up to 1cm) inside the opening, and where necessary - push it flush with the wall, thereby also adjusting the door plumb. So, apart from the advantages, I don’t find any disadvantages in using telescopic platbands.

In our store, interior doors with telescopic platbands You can choose from the following categories:

How much does it cost to install extensions?

Installation of accessories comes as an additional service - a subtle and significant “nuance”, which, as a rule, the client learns about during the installation process, which is subsequently disappointed, since the final cost of installing the door is already different from the original one! That's why you shouldn't fall for it low price door installation. The cost of installing accessories on interior door, like As a rule, it will depend on the width of the trim. Some companies increase the cost of installing accessories for every 5 cm width!

Why are we better?

When ordering doors and their installation from us, we will take into account all your wishes and, after measuring, we will calculate the number of additions so that after installation there is no excess left, which means you will not have to overpay
Installation of a door with or without an extension costs the same for us.
The price for installation is agreed upon during measurement and subsequently does not change, even if we did not take something into account.
Our reputation is important to us, so guarantee for the installation of interior doors we give 3 years!

And here’s what the additions look like using our work as an example:

The table will help you choose the right number of extensions for the thickness of the walls of the doorways .

Doorway wall thickness (cm)	Additional board (pcs.)
	Single door				double door
	10cm	12cm.	15cm	20cm	10cm	12cm	15cm	20cm
5 - 7 cm	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-
7.5 - 11 cm	1.5 pcs.				2 pcs.
11.5 - 12 cm	-	1.5 pcs.			-	3 pcs.
12.5 - 16 cm	2.5 pcs.				3 pcs.
16.5 - 21 cm			2.5pcs		-	-	3 pcs.
from 21.5 - 26.5 cm	-	-	-	2.5 pcs.	-	-	-	3 pcs.

If you have any questions -

When choosing interior doors, we want them to have a beautiful aesthetic appearance in addition to practicality. Well-chosen elements and correctly installed door trims will make the room more attractive and cozy. The article examines the types of products, their features and installation methods.

Door accessories are designed to create beautiful door portals that will look better and richer. Adding a frame when installing a door is required if there is a gap between the wall and.

In addition, structures are necessary for:

Closing irregularities.
Masking slopes.
Strengthening the entire doorway structure.
Preventing door frame distortions.

Types of products

Door extensions are additional strips that cover the wall in the opening, “adding up” its thickness, which is lacking in the width of the frame.

The main types of additional payments are presented in the table:

Type of addition	Peculiarities
	This is a strip of laminate or MDF that does not have a facing edge. In this case, the installation of doors with extensions by yourself must be done with special care. A deviation of even two millimeters will reveal the gray raw edge of the part.
	The end of the part is pre-closed with an edging tape matched to its tone, which will make minor flaws invisible. The price of the edge is very small, it is glued quickly using a regular iron. This method protects MDF boards from swelling under the influence of moisture, which is especially important for door blocks installed in bathrooms and kitchens.
	This is the most complex construction of the extension. Its peculiarity is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. In this case, the extension fits perfectly with the box and. The width of the element is adjusted by the depth of the groove.
	The peculiarity of the combined design is the addition + platband. By appearance The product is a decorative corner with deep grooves. Doors with extensions of this type are installed only when facing a small amount, up to 45 mm.

The advantages of installing extensions are:

High speed of finishing process of doorway.
The room can quickly be given an aesthetically complete look.
The absence of exposure to moisture on wood and MDF protects the structure from deformation and peeling of the outer layer of the finishing coating.
The planks hide the joints between the wall and the frame.
When the sash moves, vibration on the frame leads to cracks in the plaster or wallpaper. The extensions camouflage this area, as in the photo.

Materials for additions

In the manufacture of elements, the following are most often used:

Tree. It's environmentally friendly pure material, but its disadvantage is that it can deteriorate due to unfavorable conditions that arise during operation, which requires additional processing.

Plastic. But for arranging extensions, ordinary cheap material will not work; you need to choose high-strength plastic, preferably reinforced with metal.

MDF. Due to low mechanical strength and instability to moisture, such materials are most often used for arranging interior openings. During installation, cracking of the planks is possible, for example, when driving nails. Therefore, it is first necessary to drill a mounting hole to install the fastener.

Chipboard. It is of lower quality, but can be used for interior decoration front door in the house, has a low cost.

Calculation of the number of elements

Domestic manufacturers make doors of different widths and 2 meters high for serial production, while European sets have a height of 2.1 meters. The platbands, accordingly, have the same length.

In this case, the width of the door panels can vary from 50 to 550 mm, and the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the groove available at the end of the main frame. High-quality panels made from MDF, solid wood, laminate, usually have a thickness of 10 mm.

Why are extras needed and what are they? Before answering this question, we need to remember a little, and young people need to study history. As it was before? Each production plant building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. d. Construction organizations had standards for the thickness of plaster. This allowed woodworking enterprises to produce woodwork (windows and doors) with standard door frame sizes. After installing them in the openings, no additional adjustment with additional trims for the platbands was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are guided not by state standards, but by their own technical conditions. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have different sizes. Now no one can confidently determine the thickness of the walls; it is impossible to make several standard sizes of door and window frames. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum permissible width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is gained by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and extensions made of natural wood, but they are rare and cost much more. The principles for installing wooden and MDF panels are no different.

Extensions are ordinary boards made of MDF, have a width from 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, and have the same color and texture as the doors. According to their design, they can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against an L-shaped cutout in the sides of the box; adjustable ones with the box have a tongue/groove connection. This allows you to accurately adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

Size	Color	Price
8x100x2070 mm	bleached oak	114.00 RUB/pcs.
10x100x2070 mm	Italian walnut	167.00 RUB/pcs.
12x2150x2150 mm	snow rosewood	188.00 RUB/pcs.
12x80x2100 mm	pine	193.00 RUB/pcs.
-	acacia	RUB 2,192.00/piece
100x2150 mm	nut	RUB 468.00/piece

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with simple ones.

Prices for extras

Installation of simple extensions

Simple additions can be connected with foam (the most quick way), nails and screws (the longest method). Choose yourself the method that seems most appropriate to you; experienced builders install extensions only on foam. The method of installing the extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is significantly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on foam.

Measuring and preparing accessories

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching platbands. In order for the platbands to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie in line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be taken on an already installed door frame. Sizing is performed in the following ways.

Now you need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal one. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected by the letter P, take this into account when taking dimensions.

You can cut additional boards hand saw, jigsaw, portable electric saw or on a stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - the work is much faster, its accuracy increases and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the pieces to length, then make width marks on each one at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess part. It is better to draw a straight line using the same extensions; you don’t have to look for straight and long wooden slats. At the cut site, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit more tightly to the door frame.

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jigsaw

Video - Measuring extras

All elements are prepared, you can start installing them. Let's start from the very beginning complex method and let's finish with the simplest one.

Installing extensions with self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a hole for the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be coordinated with the diameter of the screw head. The diameter of the caps, in turn, changes with their length. The length of the screws is selected so that they fit into the door frame two to three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is advisable that the drills be made to look like wood; they have thin needle-like protrusions at the end, which allow more accurate centering of the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension; there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the countersunk completely drills out the side of the extension from the back side. The depth of the hole is regulated by the length of the screws; the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they should be screwed into the box no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, and make the same number of holes.

Step 2. Drill holes for screws. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult; you need a keen eye and dexterity.

How to drill them?

It is better to drill holes on the back side of the holes for the countersunk.
Very important. You will need to drill not perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw is directed towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.
Place the drill perpendicular to the drilling plane exactly opposite the hole for the countersunk.
Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill bit at the desired angle and continue drilling until its tip appears in the countersunk hole.

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, and we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the accessories using the described method.

Step 3. Insert the screws into the holes and twist them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4. Screw on the vertical extensions first, then the horizontal ones. If the self-tapping screw is tightly screwed, do not use much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then screw it in again.

Step 5. Check the position of the extensions; if there are places with a loose fit to the door frame, press them with any available materials.

Step 6. Prevent the boards from bending with polyurethane foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth, use carpenter's tape and stick it to the paneling and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and two or three on the horizontal ones.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the slats should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. Subsequently, the spacers are pressed with various pads.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with polyurethane foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces; there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t be able to wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, the extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing is don’t leave any gaps. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep, fit various extensions to the nozzle. For very thin cracks, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them to the existing outlet of the foam can and worked. This design, however, is disposable, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, and use a sharp mounting knife to cut off any excess. Check the stability of the position of the extensions by tapping. If you find problem areas, add foam to them.

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polyurethane foam

Video - Installing extensions with screws

That's it, the work on installing the extensions is finished, you can start working with

Installation of extensions on studs

In this section we will talk about another way to measure the dimensions of the extensions. They need to be inserted one by one into the seats of the door frame and using the sharp side of the rule to draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically moved to the other side of the board and only cut along it. But you can insert the board rotated, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all circumcision operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. Using a small diameter drill (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Drill carefully and keep the drill strictly vertical. The depth of the holes should be 3–5 millimeters less than the length of the nails.

Step 2. Insert the nails into the drilled holes until they stop. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with pliers; the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3. Carefully insert each accessory element one by one into its place in the door frame. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wood spacer. Take your time; before fixing, firmly press the additional element against the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss a gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant that matches the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you will have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the incorrect fastening is located a few tenths of a millimeter from the correct one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slide into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4. Wedge the extensions on the back side, secure their position with tape or spacers to prevent them from bursting with foam.

Step 5. Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray).

Step 6. Fill the gap with sealant over the entire surface. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing extensions on studs

We deliberately left the simplest method for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Place the extensions in place, wedge them from the inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against the seats of the door frame, prevent them from bursting with tape or spacers, and foam them after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drilling or hammering. Why do we recommend using this particular method?

The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
You never run the risk of damaging the extensions while drilling holes or driving in nails for one simple reason - there are no holes or nails.
While the “big” specialist is drilling holes for screws or nails, you will completely install the extensions on two door frames yourself with the same quality of work as him.

Have you compared how many fewer technological operations there are, how much less there is the risk of damage to the doors and door frames, and how many more advantages there are? Now make your decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

Connecting the elements into a tongue/groove allows the elements to be tightly pressed with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely eliminated; there is no need to wedge them.
The extensions can move up/down or out/in in the door frame. These few “free” millimeters allow you to precisely adjust their location and compensate possible mistakes during measuring or sawing.

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only a stationary circular saw can be used to cut a tenon of the required thickness and depth on additional elements.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the resulting width values, or you can take a piece of thin plywood or a ruler, insert it into the groove and measure the width of the extensions in this position. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway; walls are often uneven.

Step 2. Mark the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to simplify the installation of all elements in the future, reduce their width by 2–3 millimeters. This reserve will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the desired direction.

Step 3. Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4. Set the stop circular saw by the width of the tenon, raise the saw table in such a way as to ensure the required height of the tenon. Place the board on the edge and carefully cut out the tenon.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the additions.

Everything else is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent expansion, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, wet them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging; the extensions already hold their size perfectly and are tightly pressed to the door frame.

Video - Installation of adjustable extensions

When installing accessories, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third most in a simple way– installation on foam. Why?

Firstly, the extensions are never affected by pulling forces; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
Secondly, the nails serve only to securely press the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from being pulled out. Ordinary wedges made of foam plastic, paper and other available materials cope with the same task no worse.
Thirdly, any “drilling” in thin boards and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the accessory or repair the box.

No one needs the first, second, and third. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think this is one of the effective methods undeserved increase in wages for unscrupulous builders. They importantly tell customers that for such complex work they need to pay appropriate amounts.

You should not nail the horizontal expansion to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints; it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra nails in thin trims are an extra chance to see a hole on the front part, and this is a direct defect in the work.

Do not nail the planks together

You may find advice to connect all the elements with the letter P before installing the extensions in the door frame. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

Firstly, it does not reduce, but increases installation time.
Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”; during the movement and installation of the structure, the nails will still move a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
Thirdly, the structure may become so distorted during transportation that the nails will compromise the integrity of the front side of the extensions. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair the crack “to its original state.” An experienced master will always see the problem area.

And one last piece of advice. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite a specialist to help. You install several door panels yourself, and a few must be installed by a professional. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of building a bathhouse as soon as possible, or you don’t have enough time, your vacation is ending, but you want to finish finishing the bathhouse as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it is immediately obvious that they are not being looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you see sealants for cracks, shake the “craftsman’s” hand and send him back. Modern MDF doors must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing a door extension

Installing doors, especially interior doors, is not a very difficult task, but it does involve a number of certain actions, thanks to which the door will function perfectly and look aesthetically pleasing. It often happens that when installing an interior door, regular or for a pencil case, an additional board is used. What it is and what it is intended for, we will look at in this article.

What it is?

The process of installing an interior door includes several stages:

assembling the box or frame in which the door will function;
placing and securing the box in the doorway;
preparation of the door leaf, installation of fittings;
installation of the canvas in the box, fitting and adjustment;
finishing with platbands of the doorway.

Door accessory for interior doors – This decorative element, which is a box expander, if it does not coincide with the width of the opening. It seems to continue the door frame, creating a single and integral structure. It is essentially a 90-degree slope made from rectangular planks and casing made of hard materials.

What do they look like?

Additional trims have a wide range of color options. In the vast majority of cases, they are made from the same material as the door frame and door. Therefore, it is more profitable to purchase extensions together with the door and frame from one manufacturer or company. When assembled, the extensions are U-shaped.

Panels made from wood chip materials can have a protective edge, or their ends remain untreated. Also, a groove can be made on the edge on one side and a tenon on the other. Such additions are a type of lining. Telescopic boxes are equipped with such accessories.

Why are they needed?

Additions to interior doors hide all defects in the opening, protect against mechanical influences, serve as additional reinforcement of the frame, and also serve as an important decoration for the door.

The standard dimensions for the width of a door frame are 80 cm and 100 cm. If the width of the doorway is greater than these dimensions, then during installation there remains free space that needs to be refined. You can, of course, order a box of any width that matches the dimensions of the doorway, but custom-made work increases the cost of the purchased product several times over compared to a standard order. And even more so when the door is made of a rare type of wood.

Precisely for this purpose to close this free space and save on material, and we need such an element as extras. They serve to create your own design, giving you the opportunity to realize your imagination by selecting material, color, style and shape.

The aesthetics of the entire interior depends on a carefully made door slope.

What types are there?

Types of extensions differ in installation method:

attached;
lining;
combined;
telescopic.

You can attach them to the door frame both before installation and after, when the jamb is securely installed. For fastening before installation, use either small screws or glue.

You can fasten the box with the extension using thin metal plates. For example, pieces of “crocodiles” (fasteners for attaching guides) used for mounting a frame under drywall.

Methods for collecting extras on the box before its installation:

First, we assemble the box by filing the guides at 90 or 45 degrees, 6 mm larger than the width of the door leaf, for a working gap of 3 mm around the perimeter of the door leaf. If there is no quarter-shaped groove on the guides on the back side, it must first be made on circular saw or using a cutter. Using a chisel for this work is time-consuming and requires professionalism to achieve the desired quality. The width of the quarter is chosen to correspond to the width of the trim, and the depth is approximately a centimeter.
We cut the selected extension to the width required to cover the opening together with the frame. Cut the vertical and horizontal strips to length so that the horizontal piece overlaps the vertical ones.
We make formwork around the perimeter from the wrong side of the box from a flat material, for example, plasterboard. For this purpose, we screw its strips, approximately the size of the width of the prepared panel, to the box with self-tapping screws.
Align the vertical parts of the door frame with respect to the floor at an angle of 90 degrees.
We apply glue (any kind for wood or liquid nails) into the groove, insert the extension, and adjust it so that there are no gaps. From above, for strength, you can tighten the parts of the panel with self-tapping screws, making sure to drill holes with a thin drill along the entire length of the self-tapping screw so that the panel does not swell or crack. Then we leave it to dry. As soon as it dries, remove the formwork and install the jamb.

You can do without glue. The planks are prepared in the same way. The plates are screwed onto the back side of the box, where the quarter is located, the extensions are inserted and fastened with short self-tapping screws.

If there is no groove, you can cut panels from the selected material with a width corresponding to the width of the opening to be covered. Assemble a box from the extensions, and insert the door jamb inside. This can only be done if the extension is thin, or the distance allows for mounting the entire assembly assembly, and the platband is wide enough to cover the mounting seam.

Methods for installing extensions on a mounted frame are used when there is an already installed jamb with a door, and the frame has a quarter for extension.

Method one:

Free this area from foam and clean thoroughly.
Using a tape measure and a corner, measure the distance from the recess in the quarter to the end of the opening, in several places around the entire perimeter.
Cut to the length and width of the workpiece. They are inserted into the groove, and in this place the extensions are supported in several places against the box, for example, with a bicycle thermo or pieces of hardened foam or polystyrene foam. Then they are wedged so that there are no gaps and the extensions stand at 90 degrees relative to the plane of the door.
Construction foam is applied only to the part that is in contact. After the foam has hardened, you can treat the entire slope with it. It is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient for installation. If there is no groove, then the panel is slipped under the box, wedged and foamed.

The second method, which is used if it is not possible to place the extension on the foam, and the thickness of the extension allows you to drill through it:

We make several holes in the extension strip. Three holes are enough for a horizontal bar, and four holes for a vertical bar. In the place of the holes, using a drill of a larger diameter, we make indentations to recess the heads of the screws.
Using a tape measure and a corner, measure the distance from the box to the edge of the opening. According to the largest size, we cut off the width of the extension. A prerequisite: the dimensions at the junction of one plank with another, that is, in the corners, must be the same.
We cut out small, even rectangular blocks from the material at hand and slip them under the box at the fastening points. We drive self-tapping screws into the planks, apply them to the box, press them against the blocks and tighten them with a screwdriver, making sure that there are no gaps at the joints. This can be done if the width of the extension is no more than 20 cm. In the same way, you can assemble the box before installing it.

Method three:

A thin strip, like a glazing bead, no larger than 10/10 mm in size around the entire perimeter is nailed onto the box. If there is no slats, then at a distance of approximately 5 mm from the inner edge of the box, screw screws around the perimeter or hammer in nails. The caps are cut off with a grinder, leaving about a centimeter of pins.
The extensions are prepared in the above manner, wedged and more spacers are added between the side extensions in the place where the nails were nailed and from the floor to the horizontal extension. It is better to secure the extensions with masking tape from one wall to another through the opening. And they foam in the same way.

Method four - lathing an unclosed opening:

To do this, prepare blocks no thicker than the gap between the opening and the box, or a little thicker, but in this case, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the box at the same distance as a guide. Any length, as long as it does not crack during installation. The width from the box to the edge of the opening.
They are mounted to concrete and brick with dowels using a building level and angle. The extras are prepared in the same way. Attached to the bars using liquid nails. After drying, you can foam it for sound insulation.

Method five:

You can attach the extensions directly to the opening using liquid nails if their thickness covers the installation seam. To do this, glue is applied to the opening pointwise. Take a meter to one and a half block, apply it to the slope and use a mallet to level the plane. Secure with masking tape until dry.
In order to secure the extensions to the box, you can use clamps. To do this, prepare the extensions in length and width, assemble them into a box, apply liquid nails to the end, apply them to the jamb and tighten them with clamps until dry.

Telescopic

This type of accessory is assembled like a construction set. It is advisable to use an edged milling machine. Without it, it is quite difficult to make cuts at 45 degrees using a simple miter box. Therefore, when assembling the box at 90 degrees, it is necessary to ensure that the groove for the extension at the joint is solid. Extensions are inserted into it, having a tenon on one side and a groove on the other into which the platband is inserted.

The depth of the groove is 15 mm, which makes it possible to “walk” in width when purchasing or adjusting the addition and cashing. The steps for measuring, cutting and attaching are the same as for straight planks.

Their convenience lies in the fact that they are easily assembled together and make it possible to cover any distance.

Combined

Combined types of extensions are corner strips made of fiberboard, MDF, PVC - they are both an extension and a cashout. This type of additional planks is used when the overlap distance is insufficient. They are mainly attached to liquid nails.

Dimensions

Standard sizes of extensions on the market:

thickness 6-30 mm;
width 50 -250 mm;
length 2100 mm.

The width of telescopic panels is 90, 120, 150 mm. The quarter on the box for completion is most often 10/10 mm, so the thickness of the strip is chosen to be 1 cm.

The required width of the strip is the width of the opening minus the width of the door frame, plus a quarter, if any. Additional boards can be prepared with your own hands. This item is of non-standard sizes can be made to order.