Drainage pit in a private house with their own hands. Video. Photo

To collect household waste in private homes or garden plots, a drain pit is required. Its construction is simple, so you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists. To create a drain pit with your own hands, you will need some knowledge, we talked about them in this article.

Sanitary restrictions

In order to avoid penalties and litigation with neighbors, when choosing a place for a drain pit, the following sanitary and technical requirements should be taken into account:

• a storage pit for domestic waste is located only on the territory of private households; you have no right to place it outside of it; distance from the fence - from 1 m;

• in order to prevent runoff from entering drinking water in case of leakage of the pit, it is necessary to place it at a distance (at a distance of 10 m) from the water supply branch; at least 20 m recede from the well with drinking water (on loam up to 30 m, sandstone - 50 m);

• the close location of such a pit in case of its sinking or erosion can lead to the destruction of the foundation, so the distance from residential buildings (including neighboring ones) is 10-12 m;

• the depth of the pit depends on the occurrence of groundwater, the maximum depth is 3 m.

• when choosing a place for a treatment plant, one should also take into account the possibility of access to it by special equipment for pumping out.

• in order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the house, you should not place it near the windows - you should step back at least 5 m.

Distance to cesspool

Violation of sanitary and technical standards is fraught not only with fines. If the spill of sewage causes damage to the natural environment or the health of others, a criminal case may be opened against you (Article 250 of the Criminal Code).

Important! The device of cesspool tanks without a bottom is allowed only if the volume of domestic wastewater per day does not exceed one cubic meter. In all other cases, the waste collection container must be airtight.

Types of drain pits

For the construction of a storage tank for domestic waste, you can use a variety of materials:

• brick;

• concrete (including concrete rings);

• plastic;

• tree;

• rubber tires.


Drainage pit made of bricks

Due to their low tightness, wood and rubber tires are used only for the construction of small drainage structures. Most often, cesspools are built of concrete or brick.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

The size of such a capacity depends on the number of residents, the number of installed plumbing fixtures, the presence of a shower or bath, bath, dishwasher, washing machine, pumping frequency and other nuances. The generally accepted norm for 1 person without further filtration is 30-50 liters (0.03-0.05 cubic meters) per day.

Thus, subject to pumping out the drain pit once a month, a family of 3 will need at least:

0.03 x 3 x 60 (number of days in 1 month) = 4.5 m3

Advice. In case of unforeseen situations (for example, snow drifts and the impossibility of timely pumping), it is better to make the size of the drive with a margin. Since the volume of one GAZ sewage truck is on average 3.8-4 cubic meters. m, in order not to overpay for running the car, it is more reasonable to make the pits a multiple of this value.

Drainage pit made of concrete. Construction stages

1. Initially, a pit is prepared manually or with the help of an excavator. Usually its width is no more than a meter. The length of the cesspool is calculated depending on the volume of wastewater. For the convenience of pumping out the bottom of the pit is best done with a slight slope.

2. So that the walls do not crumble, they are leveled.

3. Pipes are brought to the pit. In order for wastewater to flow into the pit by gravity, they must be located at a certain slope. For pipes d160 mm, it is 10 mm per meter of passage; the slope of 100 mm pipes is 20 mm.

4. It is desirable that the drain pipes are located below the freezing level. Otherwise, they will have to be carefully insulated.


Pipe supply

6. It is better to make a hydraulic lock between the walls of the pit and the ground. To do this, wet clay is poured between the formwork and the soil and carefully compacted. This must be done as the formwork is erected.


clay castle

7. It is desirable to waterproof the walls of a concrete pit with a conventional plastic film.

8. Standard formwork is being prepared for the side parts of the structure. Since the concrete walls have a significant mass, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible with the help of self-tapping screws.

9. The structure must be reinforced. All metal rods are connected with wire.


Cesspool reinforcement

10. The thickness of the walls of the concrete cesspool is 25 cm.

11. In order to avoid the appearance of cold joints (places of “weakness” in concrete), the walls are poured in only one step.

12. The solution is mixed in a ratio of 1:2:3 (cement, sand, gravel). It should be quite liquid. If you throw a small pebble into it, with a sufficient amount of liquid, it should be completely immersed in the solution.

13. During the pouring process, the solution should be periodically compacted with a shovel or vibrocompactor (bayonet). Otherwise, voids will form in it, which will negatively affect the strength of the structure.


Compacting concrete makes it stronger and prevents voids

14. In hot weather, in order to avoid cracking, it is better to cover the drying concrete surface with bags.

15. After the concrete has completely hardened (this happens on average within a week), the pit is carefully waterproofed with bitumen. To do this, the walls are first cleared of irregularities. The bitumen is crushed into pieces, heated to a boil, then removed from the fire and a small amount of kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel is gradually added to it in a thin stream (a liter is required for 10 liters of bitumen). This is done so that the bitumen is more liquid. If it is not diluted, it will solidify almost immediately after removing it from the heat.


Heating bitumen on a fire

16. You should not overheat the bitumen or heat the mixture together with gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel, otherwise it will flare up. If the heated bitumen nevertheless catches fire, in order to extinguish the flame, you should immediately cover the container with plywood or a suitable lid.

17. For waterproofing, you can also purchase a ready-made solution of roofing bituminous mastic, but it will cost more.

18. The resulting mixture is applied to the walls with a brush. After the first layer dries, another one is applied.

19. As a cover, you can use a reinforced concrete slab with a hatch for pumping and cleaning.


Drain hole hatch

Advice. As a result of decay of waste, methane is formed in the drain pit - a rather explosive gas. It is removed using a ventilation pipe located in the lid of the pit. The diameter of such a pipe is 100 mm with a height of 600 mm.


Ventilation pipe device

Video: Drain pit: construction stages

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