How to build a beehive drawings. How to make a bee hive yourself? Frames in the hive: dimensions and description of how to do it yourself

Before you start building a hive, you need to find a suitable place for it. No matter how comfortable the house is, if there are no flowering honey plants next to it, the family is unlikely to be productive. The hives should be placed on a flat area, preferably with a slight slope to the south, east or west to drain rainwater.
The apiary must be protected from drafts and strong winds. To do this, it is installed near a fence or wall. Tall plants can serve as a protective wall: sunflowers, corn, bushes or trees. Such a hedge will provide the houses with shade in the summer heat.

One of the most important aspects of proper bee breeding is providing a dry and warm place to keep them. To do this, you can buy ready-made bee houses. However, the problem is that used bee hives can be contaminated and new ones are quite expensive. An alternative option would be to make your own hives.

Moreover, there is nothing particularly complicated in this. Almost any beekeeper, even a beginner, with a little effort and effort, can quite make a beehive with his own hands. You just need to carefully study the drawings existing structures and choose for your insects the most suitable option taking into account the climatic zone and the expected size of the future family.

Criteria for choosing ready-made houses

When buying a ready-made bee house or if you want to make it yourself, you must first decide on the model.

When choosing a suitable design, the following criteria must be taken into account:

• climate and weather conditions in the region: if spring and summer are cold with characteristic frosts, insulated, double-walled hives are needed, they can be left to winter outside;
• opportunities for honey collection in the area: for abundant honey collection, sunbeds, double-hull and multi-hull are suitable, for meager ones - small, single-hull;
• a type of apiary: heavy sun loungers and two-hull houses are suitable for a stationary one, for a portable one - light, compact, multi-hull, made of expanded polystyrene;
• planned methods: if you need to create another family with a new queen, you need a sunbed;
• apiary dimensions: for a large farm, hives are ideal, from which honey can be quickly pumped out, for example, double-hulled ones;
• experience in beekeeping: beginners will find it easier to start with a simple bed design.

To find out what types of hives are successful in your area, you can consult with experienced beekeepers and watch them work.

Requirements for a homemade hive

• building material must be taken durable, impermeable to moisture, in order to protect insects from bad weather conditions;
• you need a heater that will keep warm inside in winter, and comfortable coolness in summer;
• it is desirable to have not one, but several entrances, which, according to the weather, can be closed and opened;
• there must be enough space in the hive for the movement of bees, for brood and honey;
• the design should be convenient for the beekeeper so that he can easily collect honey, clean the house and take care of the family, you will need an opening lid and / or a removable bottom.

The most famous designs

The main types of hives

On the Web, you can find many schemes for making a hive with your own hands. When choosing the most suitable scheme, pay attention to the type of design. Among the existing ones, the most common and convenient are the following:

• Horizontal. They are also called beds. They look like a horizontal box, the length of which may vary depending on the number of frames. Its peculiarity is that the nest and the store are located next door.
• Vertical, also called risers. The box has a vertical arrangement, the design consists of several tiers. Its size is increased by adding new hulls or magazines on top (as opposed to horizontal, in which additions are made from the side).

Important! The division of views also occurs on the size of the frames. They are narrow and high, low and wide or equilateral.

Dadanovsky hive

One of the popular designs that is installed in many apiaries. Received its love because of its ease of use and spaciousness. It can be made with your own hands from wood, and it consists of 12 frames, which can be supplemented if desired. During the summer period and after an increase in the family, the hive can be enlarged with the help of additional buildings.

Alpine

A multi-hull hive built in the likeness of a hollow. Gained great popularity due to the similarity with the natural habitat of wild bees. This structure is ideal for places with limited space. It has no partitions and holes for ventilation. Fresh air enters the inside of the hive through the notch.

This dwelling is suitable for honey plants living in warm regions, because due to regular rearrangements of the buildings, the thermal effect inside the dwelling is disturbed. Ruta contains 6 cases of 10 frames.

Cassette

These hives have become popular due to the emergence of new bee diseases. This design has thin partitions, in connection with this, the swarm creates a microclimate for itself.

Important! Built from natural material are impregnated with wax.

Ukrainian lounger

Ideal solution for inexperienced beekeepers. It can be quickly made by hand. They consist of 20 frames and insulated side walls, so honey plants survive the winter cold very well. Ukrainian lounger is easy to maintain.

Beehive

The hive is thin-walled, the wall thickness is 20 mm. Suitable for warm climate regions. The house has a lot of advantages - the buildings are light, easy to build with your own hands, very practical.

Medicinal properties

The bee house is used for treatment in alternative and standard medicine. This method is called "Sleep on the beehives." The effect is achieved in three ways:

1. Healing air.
2. Microvibration.
3. The action of the biofield.

The bee air contains propolis and flower nectar. Inhaling this mixture, the respiratory tract is cleansed. Helps with bronchitis, cough, acute respiratory infections.

bee hive heals

1. Cardiovascular diseases.
2. Infertility.
3. Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.

Helps with postoperative rehabilitation, as well as metabolic disorders in the body.

The use of bee therapy is prohibited if

1. Alcohol was taken.
2. With allergic reactions to pollen and honey.
3. Taking any medication.
4. The disease is in the acute stage.

The benefits of honey have been known since ancient times. Recently, the bee product has been actively used for the treatment of cancer. Cancer is a malignant tumor that kills healthy body cells and lowers the immune system. Treatment with honey restores old cells, enhances the work of new cells.

In addition to honey, bees are also used in treatment. In motion, these insects create vibration and positively affect the human biofield. This method of treatment strengthens the immune system, invigorates and gives strength.

Materials for the manufacture of beehives

Initially, beekeepers collected honey from wild bees in the hollows of forest trees. Then someone came up with the idea of ​​making decks in logs and installing them near their home. The modern hive is a simplified and, more importantly, lightweight version of the deck. Therefore, wood is considered the best material for making bee hives. Bees feel very comfortable in wooden houses.

Linden is considered the best type of wood in the manufacture of beehives. It absorbs less moisture and practically does not contain wood resins.

However, the thermal insulation properties of this tree are low and the beehives made of linden need to be additionally insulated for the winter. In addition, linden boards are more expensive than other, more common types of wood.

Pine and spruce hives are much cheaper and retain heat better. But the coniferous smell and the ability to absorb moisture make the beehives of these types of wood not comfortable enough. The main advantages of pine and spruce houses are low cost and good ability to retain heat.

What material is better to make hives

Since ancient times, wooden beehives have been installed in the apiary. For their manufacture, natural soft wood of linden, poplar, willow, spruce or cedar was used. Today, polystyrene foam and polyvinyl chloride beehives are found on sale. They have a lot of advantages over wooden models - lightness, ease of transportation and assembly. But the main advantage of a wooden house is its naturalness and environmental safety.

To make a bee house, they buy a high-quality cut of soft wood. Boards used for construction are processed and polished. Their surface should be smooth, without chips and knots. Knots well intergrown with the surface are allowed on parts with a width of at least 65 mm. The walls, bottom and roof of the hive are made of boards of various sizes. Only one rule applies to them - high quality wood (without rotten and rotten places, without mold and rotten knots).

Plywood

Easy to handle and durable material for bee houses, which, however, does not withstand moisture, and therefore its outer surface must be primed and painted. To retain heat, the inner surface of the plywood hive is pasted over with expanded polystyrene. Plywood structures are strong and lightweight, but require annual maintenance to ensure protection from moisture.

Expanded polystyrene and foam

These materials have become quite widely used for the manufacture of beehives in recent years. They are easy to process, and therefore it is much easier to make a hive from them than from any other material.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene constructions are very light, dry and warm. Bees in such houses feel quite comfortable. The low cost of materials makes them available to most beekeepers.

The disadvantages include low strength and fragility of the structure, which requires very careful handling. In addition, polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are afraid of exposure ultraviolet rays and break down over time. Therefore, to protect against solar radiation, hives made of these materials must be painted.

Polyurethane

Another modern material, which does not rot, is moisture resistant, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, is easily processed, retains heat well and has a small specific gravity. Polyurethane is not spoiled by mice, birds and insects. Hives from it are light and comfortable. The disadvantages include its flammability, inability to pass air and high cost.

Video about the manufacture of beehives from different materials

Hive design requirements

The main requirements for the design of bee hives are that they must provide a dry, well-ventilated and warm room for bees. When developing your own design that differs from the standard options, you should take into account some features. As practical experience shows, the structural dimensions should provide for the following:

• the width of the upper bar on the frames is 25 mm;
• between the axes of adjacent frames should be 37.5 mm;
• width of streets or passages for bees 12.5 mm;
• between the side rails of the frames and the walls of the hive no more than 7.5 mm;
• from the top of the frame to the lower housing and from the lower bar to the upper housing must be at least 8 and not more than 10 mm;
• the distance from the lower bar of the frame to the bottom of the hive body is within 20-40 mm.

These insects are especially good at distinguishing yellow, orange and blue shades, as well as white. The roof needs to be painted white to reduce its heating. sunbeams. Before painting, the surface is treated with drying oil or primer.

When using thin walls winter period, they are insulated with reed or straw mats. You can use other heaters, but this option with mats is the cheapest. Compliance with these conditions will ensure the normal development of the bee colony and simple maintenance of the hive.

Do-it-yourself "horned" hive

One of the simplest and, at the same time, effective designs for making hives with your own hands is the "horned" hive. This model got its name due to the presence of connecting pins protruding at the corners of the case. It was invented by Mikhail Polivoda, who decided to develop a multi-tiered sectional hive that was as simple as possible to manufacture.

Each separate section consists of 4 framed boards 155 wide and 22 mm thick. To connect the sections to each other, bars 22x27 mm are fixed in the corner parts of the body, protruding 22 mm in the upper part and not reaching the edge by 17 mm in the lower part.

When the cases are stacked on top of each other, these bars connect them, creating a solid monolithic structure. The gap remaining between the bars is intended for disassembly using a chisel or other tool. The internal dimensions of the case are 450x300 mm.

The density of the joints between the bodies to be joined is ensured by the selection of end seams along the edges of the boards. In order to simplify the work, instead of folds, parallel bars can be nailed inside the body, on which the shoulders of the body frame will rest. In this case, the structure will become somewhat heavier, and the internal dimensions will be determined by the distance between these bars.

The quality of board processing is not critical. The main condition is the absence of strong roughness. The same can be said about the thickness of the board. It is important that only internal dimensions are maintained.

The bottom is made of a metal mesh with a cell of 3x3 or 4x4 mm, stretched over a frame body made of boards 100 mm wide. On one of the narrow sides there is a wide notch 22 mm high. As a ceiling, a cover with boards stuffed with a continuous layer is used.

In winter, for insulation, it is covered with polystyrene foam or polystyrene glued to a sheet of tin. After manufacturing, all sections must be primed and painted with colored paints.

The working capacity of such a "horned" hive is designed for the installation of 8 Dadan or magazine frames. The structure, assembled from several sections, is installed on a wooden platform slightly raised above the ground. The wall thickness of 25 mm provides for additional insulation in the winter season.

Advantages of the "horned" hive

Most beekeepers admit that Mikhail Polivoda developed a very simple and successful design, while noting that:

• making a hive for bees has become easier;
• any dry wood can be used as a material;
• even wood waste can be used as bars;
• in the manufacture does not require the presence of a complex tool;
• the weight of the case is small, which allows you to easily transfer it to a new place;
• you can use store frames or make them yourself;
• the design is inexpensive and affordable even for beginner beekeepers.

As a result, the solution is practical and very comfortable to use.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of a classic hive

Thanks to a simple and understandable design, until recently, the Dadanovsky hive was considered a classic option. Its design consists of:

• several cases for installing frames;
• two stores;
• ceiling;
• liner;
• roofs;
• insert board;
• 10 or 12 frames.

As obligatory additional accessories included in the kit, it is considered the presence of a feeder, a drinker and a barrier in the form of conical wooden plugs.

Before you make a hive with your own hands, you need to select and purchase the necessary materials, which can be dry linden, aspen, pine or spruce boards 30-40 mm thick, and 15 mm thick for the cover and liner. The surface of the boards must be carefully processed at least on one side and along the ends. At any wood detail no more than 3 knots are allowed.

As a material, you can use expanded polystyrene, polystyrene of grade not lower than 40 or polyurethane. To assemble the structure, you need PVA glue or other waterproof glue with a strength of at least 20 kg / cm 2, as well as nails 10, 40 and 60 mm long. The roof is covered with a layer of roofing felt or other waterproofing material. At the final stage, you will need drying oil, paints and brushes.

Case and magazine manufacturing

For the manufacture of cases and magazines, the available boards are cut into lengths of 530 and 340 mm. On the long ends of the boards, tongues and ridges 15 mm wide are selected. Shields are assembled from the prepared segments on the tongue-and-groove adhesive joint. To create the possibility of hanging frames, a fold 11 wide and 20 mm deep is selected in the front and rear walls.

On the inner edge of the side walls, it is necessary to remove a fold 16 mm wide and 10 mm deep, and on the outer side, chamfer 5x5 mm. Thanks to the presence of this fold, the store will be installed on the body, and the chamfer will ensure reliable removal of moisture from the walls during rain.

A fold 24 mm wide and 10 mm high is made along the lower edge of the case and magazine. The dimensions of the shield for the side wall are 490x340 mm. V corner connections they are included in the folds of the front and rear walls.

Roof manufacturing

The roof structure consists of a roof and retaining strapping. The roof is assembled from boards 10-15 mm thick or plywood 8-10 mm thick is used. For waterproofing, it is covered with two layers of roofing material or waterproofing. It is even better to use sheet aluminum or galvanized iron.

To hold the roof in a fixed position, wooden slats 20x20 mm are nailed along the perimeter of the strapping. In the end walls, it is necessary to drill ventilation holes and close them with a metal mesh with a cell of 3x3 mm.

Bottom Assembly

The bottom of the Dadan hives is detachable. The shield is assembled from boards 40 mm thick on glue into a tongue and groove 10x20 mm. The outer lining is made from wooden block when connected in a spike. A fold is selected along the upper edge for the possibility of installing a store. The dimensions of the bottom must match the dimensions of the hull.

Universal sizes

Whatever project you take as a basis, it is important to observe the main dimensions of the parts and the distances between them. For bee houses with low wide frames, it is important to maintain the distance between the back and front. It should be exactly 45 cm.

Universal sizes for all types of hives are as follows:

1. With a honeycomb thickness of 2.5 cm, the street is 1.25 cm.
2. The passage between the frames and the walls of the hive (front and back) is 0.75 cm.
3. Leave 2 cm between the bottom and the bottom bar of the nest.
4. Between the middle walls of adjacent frames, you need to make a distance of 3.75 cm.

A good do-it-yourself hive will delight the beekeeper and serve as a safe haven for bees for 10 years. In regions with low humidity and good weather conditions, this period can be 20 years. When building, refer to trusted sources, look at the apiary of an experienced beekeeper, use his personal opinion. These tips will help you achieve good results.

Drawings of the hive Dadana

Since the Dadanovsky hive and the sunbed use standard frames, they differ only in width: one should fit 12 pieces of frames, the other - 20 or 24 pieces. The rest of the parameters remain the same.

Lateral and frontal (back and front) walls of the hive

Case Assembly Diagram

Changeable parameters for hives with different number of frames are shown in the table. Substitute them in the drawing and get the option that you need.

What you need to know before you start making a beehive with your own hands

Even before the start self-manufacturing hives, you need to know the requirements for materials and technology for the construction of evidence for bees. A lot of them. Let's start with the requirements for the material.

What are they made of

The most common material is wood. Both non-tarry coniferous wood (spruce, fir, deresined pine) and loose hardwoods - poplar, linden, etc. can be used. Dense wood should not be used - the hive will be heavy and cold.

Wood requirements are strict. It must be dry - no more than 16% moisture, without falling knots, rot, wormholes, redness. Blueing is acceptable (it does not affect quality indicators). If there are knots, they can be removed, sealed with corks from the same type of wood and puttied. Do not use wood with other defects.

Today they make beehives from plywood, preferably birch. In this case, the walls are made double with a gasket between the layers of insulation - foam. These hives are warm in winter and cool in summer. Their minus is that the walls are vapor-tight, moisture does not escape through them. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the ventilation system of the hive (make an additional notch at the top, and, if necessary, open it for ventilation).

Sometimes hives are assembled from polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam. The most successful option is polystyrene foam. Even some fasteners can be installed in it, neither bees nor other insects gnaw at it. The remaining two materials are collected on glue, and bees also sharpen them, and ants and other neighbors undesirable for bees can settle.

Handling and assembly requirements

When assembling a hive with your own hands, you must strictly maintain the internal dimensions of the body and extensions. Then increasing the volume will not cause difficulties. Parts of the hive - bodies, extensions, stores, roof - must be connected to the castle and the castle parts must also match. This is necessary for a reliable connection without gaps and drafts, which bees do not like very much. In this regard, the maximum tolerances during processing are 1-2 mm.

There are also requirements for the quality of material processing. Most of them relate to wood, but they can also be applied to other materials:

• Boards and bars should be smooth, without burrs, scuffs and chips.
• It is necessary to cut materials strictly at an angle of 90 °, avoiding deviations.
• The hive bodies must be knocked down from solid boards with a thickness of 40-45 mm or using a tongue-and-groove connection, glued for reliability.
• To pair the parts of the hive in detail, choose a quarter - for a reliable gapless connection.
• On the front and back walls of the hive, a fold is made - for hanging the frames. The depth of the fold should be such that there is a distance of at least 8-10 mm from the top edge of the plank to the cover or extension. If the distance is shorter, the frames may stick to the lid, which creates maintenance problems.
• If the walls are made two-layer (with insufficient thickness of the boards), the outer ones connect them in a quarter, making sure that the seams in the layers do not match. It is better to connect the inner parts and the bottom into a tongue or groove.

Structural elements and their features

Most often, the hive has a modular structure - it consists of several detachable parts. This is convenient, as it allows you to increase the volume as needed. Each of these parts is made separately and the manufacturing accuracy must be high - all parts must be interchangeable.

Dadanov's hive of two buildings, placed one on top of the other

Frame

This is the central part of the hive, in which the nest of bees is usually located. By the number of housings, hives are single, double-hulled or multi-hulled (3 or more). Corps are instructed as the family grows.

Hive body for 12 frames

Roof

The roof of the hive can be single-pitched (tilted backwards) or gabled. In the forehead case, it should be with overhangs - to protrude beyond the geometric dimensions of the hive and protect the walls from the effects of bad weather.

Roof structures for beehives

The roof consists of a liner - a flat body for accommodating insulation or feeders for feeding bees - and the actual roof planks nailed to the liner with nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. The height of the armpit depends on the thickness of the insulation, and this value depends on the region. Usually the height of the liner is 80-140 mm. Ventilation holes are often also made in the liner - to remove moist air from the hive.

In the manufacture of the roof, the boards are laid either in two layers with overlapping seams, or from thicker boards in one layer, but the seams must be closed with thin strips. Roofing iron, roofing felt or roofing material can be laid on top of the wooden roof of the hive.

In the manufacture of the roof, pay attention to the fact that it "sits down" tightly, without gaps. To seal the connection around the perimeter of the body, you can stuff a felt strip or nail a plinth outside the body to cover the joint.

The bottom of the hive can be nailed to the body (deaf) or can be pulled out or pulled out, that is, it can be detachable. The detachable bottom facilitates the maintenance of the hives - it allows you to clean the bottom without disassembling the entire hive. Structurally, the bottom happens:

• cold - from a single board;
• warm - from two layers with a warming backfill.

Also, the bottom is double-sided - with protrusions of different heights on both sides, which allows you to adjust the internal volume. They knock it down tightly, without cracks, connect the boards in a quarter or in a groove with additional sizing of the joint with moisture-resistant glue for wood. The cracks must be carefully sealed (putty on wood), as wax crumbs are poured into them, and then the wax moth starts up. Therefore, from time to time they prefer to replace the bottom, knocking together a new one.

Useful videos

20 frame horizontal beehive

The principle of operation for all types is the same. Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know the exact dimensions. 20 frame horizontal bee hive, step-by-step instruction:

1. We cut parts from a board four cm wide. These parts will serve as the front and back walls of the hive. Lateral, cut out from a board three cm long.
2. We assemble the structure so that all walls except the front one are in contact with the bottom, and the front one rises from the bottom by one and a half cm. This distance will serve as an entrance from below in the future. The corners are joined in a quarter and fastened with nails.
3. We make the floor from a board 3.5 cm thick. The bottom should look like a shield.
4. Ceilings are built from boards: L-47.8 cm, thickness - 1 cm.
5. We construct a roof. It can be made flat, single-sided or double-sided. This is the only part that can be upholstered with a metal sheet.
6. For the northern regions, the lounger must be insulated on both sides.

The sunbed consists of a bottom, a roof and walls. The frame is built from shields. Dimensions of the front part: 87x37. The height of the back wall is 87x34. The length of the side shields is 44x49 cm. The size of the bottom: 84x54.5, thickness 3.5 cm.
You can make bee evidence with your own hands from:

Simplicity in construction, with your own hands, is that the foam is inexpensive and reliable. Building from this material is simple and profitable. Before you build a beehive for bees with your own hands, you need to know the dimensions. The size of the future hive can be very diverse, it depends on the number of frames that will be there. To find out the width, you need to multiply the number of frames by 3.75. The length is calculated: the length of the frame plus 1.4. The height is calculated: add the height of the frame to the height of the folds.

1. Initially, you should decide on the size and start construction in stages.
2. We put stencils of the future house on the foam sheet.
3. We cut out future walls and clean the corners with sandpaper.
4. To fasten all the details, cut out the quarters and use nails and self-tapping screws to connect.
5. The bottom is made of galvanized sheet.
6. The roof must be flat or pitched. After fastening the roof, it is weighted.
7. Lettki perform standard.

After the construction of the hive is completed, it is necessary to make frames. They consist of: top, bottom and side bars. It is made from dried, natural material.
Dimensions according to GOST:

• top and side - B-2.5 cm
• top rail - H-2 cm;
• lower rail - B - from 1.5 to 2.5 cm;
• H - 1 cm;
• dimensions depend on the type of hive, dimensions according to GOST - 43.5x30.
  (H-height; B-width; L-length)

Frame

The central part of the hive is a four-walled box. It has a bee nest. As the bee family increases, the bodies can be pointed at each other. According to the number of buildings, houses are divided into: single, double-hull and multi-hull (from 3 or more). The wall thickness should be 35 mm. This size will help the swarm to overwinter well. The number of frames in the case can be from 16 to 24.

The parts prepared for the body are connected with nails or PVA glue. A cut is made in the lower part of the front wall: B-4cm, H-1cm. This slot will serve as an entrance and exit for the swarm. Also, at the bottom of the case, a hole is drilled for ventilation. The made case is treated on the outside with a water-repellent material and painted white.

Important! On the case, it is necessary to make notches on the sides, 7mm below the top of the case. They will serve as handles for easy transportation from place to place.

Roof

The roof is made from a board 2 cm thick. From the prepared boards we make a structure in the form of a shield and, to prevent the board from rotting, we cover it with a tin sheet.

Important! When building a hive, a tin sheet is used only to cover the roof, it is not used for wall cladding.

Most beekeepers place a mesh on top of the hive for extra ventilation when transporting bee houses. It is also necessary to isolate the swarm from the outside world.

For regions with a cold climate, the bottom is made of two layers of boards with insulating backfill. In the southern regions, insulation is not required, therefore, it is made from a single board.

The bottom is made of bars. At three side bars standard sizes- 57x6.5x3.5. The bars that will be installed in the back are 44.5x6.5x3.5. In each bar, at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge, it is necessary to make puzzles. After all the details are cut out, we proceed to assemble the parts of the structure. The bottom should be assembled with the letter "P". Grooves are needed to install the floor. The arrival board is made from a 5 cm protruding beam, the front bottom beam.
The bottom, for convenience, should be removable and double-sided.

Sample Toolkit

Before you start making a hive, you need to prepare the following tools:

• wooden hammer;
• awl;
• wire;
• pliers;
• nails and screws;
• measuring tape;
• perforator, welding machine and Bulgarian;
• board 32x18, 12 mm plywood;
• insulation;
• a metal sheet;
• PVA, paint, brushes.

Blueprints

Drawings are more convenient to use ready-made.

Due to the large number of frames and housings, it will be difficult for a beginner beekeeper to make a multi-hull hive.

This type of hive is a large, long box. The floor and roof fit snugly into the structure itself. Drawings of the manufactured structure:

When designing a multi-hull house, you must follow a few rules:

1. The bottom can be made by anyone. The removable bottom makes it much easier to care for insects.
2. It is better to make the roof of the hive flat, for more convenient transportation.
3. Frames should be with side bars and have side bars.
4. For a family of bees, you need to make a feeder from a nomadic mesh.
5. The roof is assembled after the assembly of the entire structure and after the stage of insulation.
   The house should be warm, comfortable and airtight. Otherwise, the swarm will get sick, will not endure the winter cold and will not bear honey well.

Beekeeping is not an easy task, but it is beneficial not only because of its high profitability. Entomologists and agrarians are unanimous: in general, the benefits of the honey bee Apis melifera are not only honey and wax, which is highly demanded in technology, but even more - pollination fruit plants. An apiary in a country house, a personal plot, in a garden and next to a vegetable garden is definitely worth all the trouble and expenses, if not directly, by the output of marketable beekeeping products, then by increasing the productivity of the economy as a whole.

A ready-made hive in the Russian Federation can be bought for 2000-4000 rubles, but without frames. One hive in the apiary will not do. The most expensive equipment for private beekeeping - a honey extractor and a wax melter - can at first be rented or given away for processing. Other bee care supplies are more readily available. That is, at the beginning of the beekeeping activity, it makes complete sense to make the hives yourself: they are not material-intensive, they are not structurally and technologically complex. This publication is devoted to how to make a beehive with your own hands. The material is designed primarily for beginners.

Do or create?

The hive is not technological equipment in the usual way. It is primarily the home of the bee colony (families). Honey collection is determined by many factors: the experience of the beekeeper, the method of beekeeping, the number, species composition and density of honey plants in a given place, the location of the apiary on it, and finally, just the weather. But honey collection from the hive depends on right choice its type and workmanship are much more than the milk yield per cow from the design of her stall.

A bee family is not a family in the usual sense, nor is it a colony of individuals or a nest. Since the middle of the last century, some zoologists for short description communities of social insects (termites, ants, social wasps and bees) use the term "superorganism", implying that "superorganism" is the subject of a population of a given species, an individual in it is its structural unit, like a cell in our body, has strictly defined functions , one cannot exist on its own, and within the “superorganism” community, a complex exchange of information is continuously going on.

“Superorganism” in the full sense of the word is another life at our side, and, as the 1969 Animal Lives aptly remarked, this word has no more to do with displaying the true essence of the differences between them and us than a puff of smoke has to do with the Club of Famous captains. An internal combustion engine piston is closer to an old soft boot, and its cooling jacket is closer to a piece of clothing than a bee colony is closer to our family, and its fertile female is closer to a mother or queen.

Therefore, at the beginning of beekeeping, you need to make a beehive for bees, firstly, exactly following the chosen pattern. Beekeeping has been around for millennia, but the first frame hive that made it possible to fully domesticate the honey bee was developed only 200 years ago, it is so difficult for us to understand their life. Secondly, at the start, choose a sample for repetition that is proven, convenient not only for the life of bees, but also for the development of your understanding of it. Chasing immediately only for the maximum honey yield means dooming yourself to failure in advance. You cannot become a beekeeper relying only on book knowledge, and you need to make beehives for your apiary in such a way as to back them up with observations and practical experience as best and as quickly as possible.

Fortunately, there are not so many reliable types of hives that allow you to go from simply ensuring the normal life of the bee colony to collecting more than 20 kg of honey per hive in non-honey years, which cannot be said about various experimental designs. But in apiaries, they both appear and leave them, but the correct hives remain. That is what we will do, how to make a hive that is convenient and useful both for bees and for ourselves.

hive types

The first frame hive, which made it possible to select honey without destroying the bee colony and without weakening it excessively, was created by the Russian beekeeper I. P. Prokopovich in 1814. increase as it develops. According to these provisions, Langstroth conceived his hive by hanging frames vertically, and in 1851 he finally brought it to perfection, reworking it to fit Root's low-wide frame (for hive frames, see below). Hive Lagstroth-Ruth, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig., is still dominant in professional commercial beekeeping.

At the end of the XIX century. Frenchman Charles Dadan, who worked in the USA, set out to create a hive suitable for places with more severe winters and fewer honey plants, where the profitability of large-scale industrial beekeeping is doubtful, but as a help in frequent farming and a pollinator center, it is fully justified. By increasing the number of frames in the hull to 12 and the height of the frame, Dadan got a hive that fully met his intentions. A hive of Dadan, or just a hive-dadan, or even a dadan, pos. 3, dominates in small-scale frequent beekeeping in the same way as Lagstrota-Ruta in large professional beekeeping. Small but useful changes were made to it by the Swiss Blatt.

Amateur beekeepers, as a rule, begin their journey with bee-beds, pos. 4, allowing, in the presence of a sufficient number and high density of honey plants, to obtain a good honey flow, having only the initial skills of caring for bees. Qualified amateur beekeepers who supply products for sale, and professional entrepreneurs working alone with the number of bee colonies up to 1000 (approximately), prefer, depending on local conditions, Roger Delon's alpine hive (alpine hive), pos. 5, or its modifications, the Khomich hive or the Varre hive, pos. 6. The laboriousness and complexity of caring for them require solid experience, but the manufacture of an alpine-type hive requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a Dadan hive, and the honey collection from it is higher and more stable. In non-honey years, the Alpine is able to give a honey collection 10-11 times (!) More and, therefore, remain profitable, and the Varre hive is 3-5 times more than the dadan. In ordinary and honey years, this difference is smoothed out. Alpine clone hives are light (approx. 15 kg per body with honey), compact, transportable and therefore most suitable for nomadic beekeeping. Such properties of alpine hives are highly valued by SP beekeepers, for whom the day feeds the year.

Beehive designs

At pos. with the Dadana hive, well-views are the main components of a rationally arranged bee house. The bottom (stand) separates the hive from the ground, and its sloping front wall serves as a landing site for bees. Between the bottom and the body, most often there is a reverse bottom without a front wall; it facilitates the current care of the hive - garbage collection, removal of dead bees. Case - a box without a bottom; possibly with an additional notch in the upper third. Nesting frames are placed in the body, on which, so to speak, the daily life of bees passes. The case, if necessary, can be divided into parts by removable vertical partitions - diaphragms. There can be 1 or more hive bodies; a hive of more than 3 buildings is called a multi-hull hive.

Shop - the same, or lesser height, a box without a notch. This is a commercial hive extension from which honey is taken. The store is separated from the body by a horizontally laid dividing grid - a separator - with cells of such a size that the worker bees pass through them, but the larger queen does not. The combs in the store are built and filled with honey, but the queen cannot lay eggs in them, and therefore the combs in the store are not sealed. Bee hive, designed for the so-called. an aggressive method of honey collection, it is necessarily supplied with a store.

Note: bees are hard workers. With an aggressive method of honey collection, excess honey and wax is taken from them all the time, encouraging the bees to build and build combs for supplies. Allow the bees to stock up in excess on the eve of wintering. Of course, aggressive honey collection is only possible from strong families during honey years.

Underroof is a commodity-unproductive extension, a box-shaped section, designed primarily to organize proper air circulation in the hive and create a stable microclimate in it. The bee "superorganism" is capable of self-regulation of its internal conditions. The liner helps in this cultural bee colony, as we have the attic of the house and clothes. Depending on local conditions and the type of hive, the liner can be just a flat shield, such a hive is similar to a barren house or light clothing. Also, the liner is possible deaf or with a ventilation hole (opening).

The cover (functionally - the ceiling) of the hive protects it from atmospheric precipitation; with pavilion keeping of bees, it may be absent, and in good weather it is often replaced by a cloth coverlet - canvas. The roof of the hive (functionally - a tire) is often made single-pitched, and ventilation holes are cut out in its gables. A flat roof, if it covers the hive for a long time, must be periodically lifted for ventilation.

Hive Langstroth-Root

The hive of this type is multi-body with bodies and stores of the same height, designed for standard Ruth frames (see below). Ventilated or blind liner, depending on local conditions. The number of buildings and stores in the hive is determined by the experience of the beekeeper, also based on local conditions. One honey-filled box or magazine weighs more than 20 kg, so an assistant(s) is needed to work with Langstroth-Root hives.

Hive of Dadan

In an area more or less provided with flowering honey plants, the Dadanovsky hive gives a honey flow comparable to that of the Langstroth-Ruth hive, and caring for it and beekeeping in the Dadan hive is not much more complicated than in the lounger hive. The Dadan-Blatt hive for 12 frames 300 mm high (Dadan frame, see below for frames) provides wintering for 2 bee colonies in a temperate continental climate, and at the same time can be made under the standard Ruth frame. A Dadan-Blatt hive fully filled with honey weighs up to 35 kg, which allows you to manage it alone.

In the Dadan hive, the housing and magazine of different heights make up the hive module. Multi-hull hives are obtained by stacking modules one on top of the other. This hive is now known in several varieties adapted to local conditions. In Russia, their own modifications of the Dadan hive have been developed, but in view of the ongoing climate changes, the Dadan hive in the variant common in the northwestern states of the USA and Canada, designed for 9 Ruth frames, may be of interest; see its drawings in fig. below. The climate there is much wetter and more unstable than in middle lane RF. But it’s probably too early for us to supply the hive with a comb liner with inserts; then the Section Comb Super turns into a simple box, and the Inner Cover and Outer Telescoping Cover become the usual cover and roof, respectively. The structural material of this hive is a 16 mm thick hemlock board, which can be replaced with moisture-resistant plywood.

hive frames

Removable frames in a hive for bees are a kind of foundation on which they build a house - honeycombs. From the point of view of bees, combs are divided into nesting, for brood, and idle for stocks. In the cells filled with honey, the first queen lays her eggs, the worker bees seal them, and the larvae develop by swimming in the food. In idle combs, food is stored for the whole family for the winter and bad weather.

Note: although honey bees form a “superorganism”, they are not endowed with reason and act instinctively. Therefore, in the hive, with an excess of space, it is possible to build empty honeycombs. Their appearance is highly undesirable, because. the strength of the family is wasted both for her and for the beekeeper.

From the point of view of the beekeeper, nesting and idle combs should be separated, highlighting separate frames for both. In this case, you can take honey and wax without destroying or even disturbing the bee colony. Therefore, structurally, the frames for hives are divided into nested, placed in the body, and store.

Most hives are designed for low-wide frames, which are wider than tall. Bee colonies tend to develop vertically, so a low-wide frame reduces the likelihood of swarming when there is a large excess of food. Enthusiasts of a narrow-high framework inevitably face a decrease in the honey flow as a whole, because when the germ of a new swarm - the nucleus - is released from the bee colony, the accumulated reserves are spent on it.

The standard dimensions of the nesting frame of the hive since the time of Ruth are 435x230 mm, and the magazine, or half-frame, 435x145 mm. The nesting frame of Dadan differs only in its height increased to 300 mm, see the dimensions and drawings of the frames for the hives in fig. A 2-mm galvanized wire is stretched in the opening of the frame (inset at the top right in the figure) and foundation is laid in it, this is a kind of trench for the foundation. Bees will build honeycombs without foundation, but honey collection from the hive will then begin later. The frame in the case/magazine hangs on hangers resting on the inner fold of the box, see below.

The width of the upper shelf of the frame is 36 or 37 mm, but the hive body / magazine is calculated for the frame installation step of 37.5-38 mm. The fact is that a too dense package of frames from thermal expansion can jam in the box, and beekeepers already have a lot of trouble with frames glued to it with propolis. Therefore, based on the local climate, the width of the frame shelf and their calculated step are chosen as follows:

• The climate is even: sea, steppe or others with slight temperature fluctuations - a shelf of 37 mm, a step of 37.5 mm.
• The climate is temperate continental, eg. Central Russia - shelf 37 mm, pitch 38 mm or shelf 36 mm, pitch 37 mm.
• The climate is continental or if the apiary is in the mountains - a shelf of 36 mm, a step of 38 mm.

The gap between the sidewalls of the frame and the walls of the hive has been precisely verified by beekeepers over the centuries: 8 mm. More - the bees will build it with honeycombs; less - it will be tightened with poppolis and the frame will stick. Ways to remove sticky frames are known, but why deal with problems if you can not create them?

The gap between the lower bar of the frame and the bottom of the hive is made larger, 20 mm. Less is impossible, if you deprive the bees of the opportunity to walk along the bottom or limit it, the family will wither away. But then regular care of the hive is necessary: ​​to tear off the frames that have stuck to its bottom without ruining the family is still the same task.

Assemble frames on nails using a special pattern board, see sidebar in fig; for frame wood, see below. The excavation of combs and the care of the apiary are greatly facilitated by folding basket frames, see the figure on the right, but considering that hundreds of frames are required even for a small apiary, the labor and money costs for the purchase of stainless wire in this case are far from always justified.

Note: in some types of hives, non-standard frames are used. These will be described below along with resp. hive types.

sun lounger

The hive-lounger is something like a chest with frames suspended in it, even its lid is often made hinged. The beehive-lounger is also called the Ukrainian beehive, which is not true. It was invented independently by amateur beekeepers from several countries of Southern Europe. The hive-lounger came to Ukraine already in finished form, and there, frankly speaking, it was spoiled: they deprived the store and adapted it to narrow-high frames of Dadan size, see fig. In fairness, it should be noted that from the point of view of “lazy” beekeeping in regions with a climate favorable for bees and an abundance of lushly flowering honey plants, this made some sense.

The device and dimensions of the hive-lounger for 16 frames (one or two family) and 20 frames (2 family) are shown on the next. rice. In it, the bee colony is even more encouraged to develop horizontally, and the observation of the bees is facilitated. An indispensable accessory of such a hive is at least 1 diaphragm.

In general terms, the mode of operation of a 16-20 frame lounger is as follows:

• During the spring "explosive" peak of flowering honey plants (garden, buckwheat field, linden forest, acacia grove), 2 families work, the main (main) and auxiliary. The movement of bees from family to family does not particularly reduce the honey flow, they are not up to it, a lot of work.
• At the decline of flowering, the auxiliary colony either separates and moves away (relocates), or is destroyed, or harasses itself: its worker bees kill their queen and move on to the main colony. The excess space of the hive is fenced off by the diaphragm.
• If the summer flowering of wild honey plants is not particularly intense, the hive works in 1-family mode until wintering.
• In the case of violent summer flowering in the main family, a nucleus is formed, which develops into a new auxiliary family.

Thus, at the cost of some reduction in honey yield, the bed hive is largely self-regulating and self-adjusting for the honey/non-honey year. Therefore, even rather significant flaws in beekeeping in it do not excessively reduce the honey flow and almost never ruin the family.

Note: if you read or hear the expression “double queen bee colony”, “two queen hive”, etc., do not believe your eyes and ears. Any student of the Faculty of Biology, not to mention entomologists, will explain that there are no “double queen” bee colonies and, in principle, cannot exist. By analogy with individual organisms, again forcedly rough and inaccurate, 2 bee colonies in one hive is not a two-headed bird in a cage, but simply 2 birds in one cage. Which may or may not get along there.

The sunbed hive also has a property that is valuable for professionals: since the expansion of bee colonies is directed mainly along the vertical, one sunbed hive is suitable for wintering 2 or more colonies, which allows saving weak colonies. It makes no sense to nurse them in a large hive, it will be necessary to give abundant feeding. But an overfed family in the spring will not be able to restore vitality and will wither away. Imagine that someone spent the winter in bed on a diet, and in the spring he was launched into a logging or obstacle course. In a small volume and with neighbors, the bee colony experiences weakness, like a soldier in a trench with a runny nose. The appearance and layout of the wintering hive-lounger for 4 families is given in fig.

Alpines

Roger Delon decided to create a hive that would allow bees to fully use the incredible honey potential of alpine meadows, but this task is extremely difficult. Alpine honey plants bloom in groups of species throughout the season; volley bloom, its peaks are high, sharp and short-lived. Blooming clumps are located on islands, often distant from each other at considerable distances. The daily fluctuations in temperature in the Alpine altitudinal zone are also extreme: in the mountains at night and in summer it is winter, and a cloud has come up a little on the Sun - deep autumn. The flight of bees for a bribe is also necessary in bursts, and they must wait up to several cold days without switching on wintering instincts, i.e. a mountain hive should quickly warm up in the sun and store heat well.

Delon, the beekeeper, came to the conclusion that, first, the bees in such conditions need to be provided with the possibility of the fastest possible development of the family. Secondly, the type of hive most suitable for this should repeat the natural dwelling most preferred by wild bees - a log with a hollow. And in order to create conditions that will be good for the bees, and honey and wax will go to us, Roger Delon, based on the knowledge about social insects obtained by that time (middle of the last century), developed a very low wire frame capable of holding foundation without supporting threads ( see fig.), and already under it - a hive of square buildings 108 mm high, see fig. below.

For ease of care, Roger Delon made his hive-deck composite; the number of its buildings can reach up to 12 or more. The roof of the Alpine hive is deaf, like the vault of a natural bee hollow. There is only one letok, there are no ventilation holes to reduce heat loss. Ventilation is also like that of wild bees in a hollow: air enters through the notch, rises under the roof, cools down there, goes down and exits again through the notch. Bees ventilate themselves by fluttering their wings. There are also no stores, separators, diaphragms, etc., which we need more than bees. Thus, although outwardly the alpine hive of Roger Delon is similar to the multi-hull Langstroth-Root, the differences between them are fundamental.

The first tests of the new hive gave a result that Delon's colleagues did not believe at first, despite his impeccable reputation: the bees did not steal honey and did not go from family to family, even when 40-50 square meters were left for the bee colony. m. honey lands. In a very non-honey 1988, Roger Delon's hives produced 20-22 kg of honey, and dadans located in the same area - 2 kg each.

However, beekeeping in the hive of Roger Delon can be compared in terms of complexity and requirements for the professionalism of a beekeeper with caring for a canary or a budgerigar released into the garden in the spring. Labor costs for working with many small frames also increase in comparison with the Dadan hive by 3-4 times. At the same time, in flat places with bursts of flowering honey plants, the climatic conditions are not so extreme, but even there the bees do not have time to take all the available nectar and pollen, and from an excess of bribe they begin to steal honey, instead of thoroughly exploring the surrounding honey areas. Therefore, we often offer for sale as alpine hives the hives of V. Khomich and Varre, modified for flat conditions, based on the same principles.

The hive of Khomich differs from the hive of Roger Delon in the body height increased to 220 mm, which reduces the number of frames with the same total area. The Varre hive has already been converted to a non-standard wooden frame of reduced height and increased width, see the drawings in fig. on right; it is even more easily confused with the Langstroth-Root hive. The honey flow from these hives in bad years is less than from the prototype, but this is due to the lower productivity of honey plants. In the mountains, its significance acquires fantastic values ​​due to the transparency of the air, moderate temperature and high insolation.

Ozerov and others.

From time to time, among beekeepers, interest flares up in the Ozerov and Lupanov hive under a frame enlarged to 500x500 mm. In conditions Central Russia with a long, but rather sluggish flowering of not very productive honey plants, it, according to the authors, should have given the same effect as Roger Delon's hive in the mountains. But it was smooth on paper. A frame of 500x500 is far from optimal for the development of a productive bee colony (are there many dry warm hollows half a meter in diameter?) and instead of increased marketability in hives for large frames, there is the allocation of side colonies, walking bees and stealing honey.

How to make beehives

The method of assembling frames for hives is shown above. The assembly of hive sections from the point of view of carpentry is somewhat complicated only by the need to choose folds at the top and bottom. At the top, the rebate is selected both inside and outside, see fig. The outer folds provide a detachable connection of the sections during the assembly of the hive, and the hangers of the frames rest on the inner fold. If it is not possible to use a milling machine, the folds can be exactly selected with a special folded planer - a sherhebel. Hives are assembled on nails: you need a lot of screws of various calibers for the apiary, they will cost a lot, and they will not add strength to the hives.

Hangers in a poorly maintained hive can stick to the rebate, which is why enthusiasts are constantly suggesting non-rebate hanger designs. But in fact, it turns out that the side gaps of all of them “walk”, which is why the frames are no longer glued with hangers, but with sidewalls, which is much more serious. In general, the best foldless suspension is the correct timely care of the hive.

What are hives made of?

Traditionally, hives are made from seasoned non-resinous spruce, chamber or room dry, i.e. up to 8% humidity. In the air, then it will not completely dampen, because. from the inside it will be saturated with the vapors of bee bread, honey and the secretions of the bees themselves. Frames are made from the same spruce, but best material fake for them. Linden wood is light, which is why the whole hive is lighter, and very viscous, it does not prick under nails.

MDF is similar in properties to linden, but, as far as is known, no one has yet tried to make frames from MDF. Beekeepers are conservative people, and for good reason. However, MDF is not at all chipboard or fiberboard, it exudes gaseous products (“gassing”) even less than linden. More precisely, it does not gas at all: it completely lacks synthetic binders. MDF is obtained by pressing wood pulp at elevated temperatures, leaving almost pure lignin. On the expiration of phenol-containing compounds, etc. MDF is not certified, because That is unnecessary. In general, an MDF hive frame is perhaps the only thing a beginner beekeeper can experiment with.

plastic hives

Recently, hives from various kinds plastics. The Finnish polystyrene beehive, see fig., is quite popular due to its relatively low cost and immediate readiness for work: set it, put the frame in, and you can move in a family. Also, the unconditional advantage of polystyrene foam hives is negligible heat loss, but it is worthwhile to understand their other features in more detail.

The popularity of Finnish beehives has given rise to numerous attempts to make do-it-yourself foam beehives, but this is not at all the same thing. Styrofoam is the trade name for expanded polystyrene foam. The last phrase is not a tautology; not expressing the same thing in other words.

Expanded polystyrene as a raw material goes on sale in polystyrene granules saturated with dissolved gases. In the production of foam products, they are poured into a mold, which is heated to 80-90 degrees; in artisanal conditions - immersing the form in hot water. Gases are released, the granules swell, fill the mold tightly and stick together; on the surface and on the cut of the foam, its cellular structure is clearly visible.

Styrofoam material is very fragile, and advice to make beehives out of it, fastening plates ... with self-tapping screws, this is not even funny. The styrofoam hive will settle down simply when being carried, even before it is filled with honey. And molding foam at home from granules is not realistic: a form to which foaming granules would not stick is expensive.

According to another method, the granules are foamed separately and a hot viscous foamy mass is pressed (extruded) into a mold, this is the so-called. extruded polystyrene foam, XPS. XPS is much stronger than styrofoam and it is possible to extrude hive sections from it. But - only at a properly equipped enterprise.

However, that's not all. The overall strength of XPS is higher than that of many types of wood, but local (for scratching, cutting, pressing with something sharp) is much less. Therefore, if the hive is made of EPPS, it is impossible to remove the stuck frame from it without damaging the hive itself. In the same way, mechanical cleaning of the polystyrene foam hive is also impossible.

And that's not all. XPS, as well as its more durable and expensive substitutes (polyurethane, polycarbonate), are not absolutely resistant to ultraviolet radiation, temperature fluctuations, and precipitation. A protective paint/film increases its durability, but claims of a service life of ... 30 years are also not funny from the point of view of the most reckless marketing.

And that's not all either. Yes, plastics do not absorb condensate, it flows down in a plastic hive, from where it is discharged. But it is always warmer in a populated hive than outside. In a wooden hive, condensate is immediately absorbed without evaporating back, and diffuses outward - the dew point always shifts to the cold (more precisely, less warm) side. Therefore, the microclimate in a wooden hive, under the same external conditions, is more favorable for bees than in plastic ones, especially since in the latter there is no outflow of air through the walls.

And that's still not all. Almost any plastic, and especially XPS, when heated and under the influence of the slightest impurities of volatile organic substances in the air, gasses, which is not useful for bees, honey, or its consumers. Experiments with heaters have shown that XPS slabs, tightly immured in building construction, over several years, seriously decrease in volume, releasing droplets of styrene - a viscous yellowish liquid with a specific odor. There is more than enough volatile organic matter in the atmosphere of the hive.

Note: hence another argument against plastic hives follows - disinfection / disinsection, for example. against a tick, and treatment of bees in them by spraying preparations is impossible, and medicinal syrups are very problematic.

The Finns are not worried about these circumstances: in the local climatic and economic conditions, disposable hives for disposable bee colonies pay off very well. Moreover, a considerable, if not the main share of the income of Finnish beekeepers comes from the sale of wax for technical purposes. Which the Finns, by the way, are of excellent quality. But beekeepers who specialize in the production of food and medicinal bee products subject polystyrene foam hives to harsh and well-founded criticism, see for example. track. video about Shapkin's hive.

Video: about Shapkin's hive

About warming hives

From the foregoing, it follows that it is also undesirable to insulate plywood hives with foam plastic, and this is true. For insulation of hives, it is better to use foam - foamed polyethylene (PE). PE definitely does not gas, because. only chemically attacked by strong acids and alkalis, it is resistant in the open air. Think about the problems with plastic waste.

Penolon is produced in sheets up to 12 mm thick, so several layers of it will be needed to insulate the hive. It is not necessary to insulate the hive over the entire surface, turning it into a thermos: for a normal wintering of the bee colony, some heat exchange between the space of the hive and environment. The scheme and method of plywood hive insulation are shown in fig.

When choosing foam for hive insulation, you need to request a specification or a certificate for it from the manufacturer and make sure that the base is PE high pressure suitable for the manufacture of parts incl. medical equipment. In the production of low-pressure PE (otherwise called catalytic PE), a cadmium catalyst is used. His traces in finished product negligible, but cadmium and its compounds are highly toxic carcinogens of the highest degree of danger with a cumulative effect. Once upon a time, low-pressure PE household dishes were labeled "For non-food products and substances", but now "alternative" suppliers hide the mention of the method of obtaining their PE away in the paper.

Finally

So, which hive to start with? Completely without experience or, if the apiary is intended primarily for pollination, from a beehive-lounger. In the latter case, it is possible to use a Ukrainian sunbed without a store, and then it is better to entrust beekeeping and honey collection to a visiting beekeeper.

Beekeeping is a very popular activity. Worker bees will provide a caring owner with fragrant honey, healing propolis, bee bread, wax, even poison. That is why many owners summer cottages and plots of land acquire bees for themselves and begin to comprehend the art of caring for them. The importance of the bee house - beehive.

There are several types of hives:

The health of bees and their ability to produce honey depends on the right choice of hive, which is why it is very important correctly identify the type and make a hive with your own hands.

On apiaries, structures of various types can be used. The choice is determined primarily by the conditions of use, the direction of beekeeping, the breed of bees. It is also important to take into account the method used by the colony to maintain food supplies.

That is why, when choosing the type of building, experienced beekeepers turn primarily to their own practical experience, taking into account temperature regime region and features of the belt.

Each hive should have enough internal volume for the bees to be comfortable, as well as protect insects well from weather conditions.

Gallery: do-it-yourself beehive (25 photos)

Single body model

Widespread use of this type was found in regions where honey plant is scarce:

• Frame dimensions: 435 x 330 mm.
• They consist of a nested body (12 frames), with the addition of magazine add-ons.
• The increase in families is very small.
• If building is required, the hive should be reinforced with add-ons.
• Main advantage: ease of transportation.

Double-sided bee house

The structure is similar to a single-hull design, but there are no store settings. They are replaced by a full-size case with twelve frames.

The advantages of this type: the total collection of honey by bees will be significantly higher than in a single-hull hive, the design allows prevent possible swarming.

Hive-lounger

It is the same two-hull hive, but in a horizontal position.

1. The nest is growing not up, but to the sides.
2. Holds 15-20 frames, size 435 x 300 mm.
3. Advantage - it is very convenient to serve the apiary, it is not required to remove the body.
4. Ideal design for selection.
5. Bees produce honey well and endure wintering.

Multibody view

A complex structure consisting of several buildings (from 4 to 8) placed vertically on top of each other;

• 10 frames are placed in each case (dimensions - 435 x 230 mm);
• perhaps the application of stores;
• found application in industrial apiaries, as well as in amateur apiaries with a large honey collection, are used for large families.

double wall type

Designed for breeding bees in areas with adverse conditions. Due to the two shells hive insulation, therefore, an acceptable microclimate is created for bees for wintering outside.

Consists of 14 frames (dimensions 435 x 230 mm), two magazines (12 frames each).

The choice of hive type depends on under what conditions will bees be bred, as well as from the tasks that the beekeeper sets himself.

Components

Before building a house for bees, you should know what parts it consists of. Regardless of the design, the structure of the hives is largely similar.

Frame. That's what they call it bee house walls, which can differ significantly from each other in size. Each case in the upper part has special holes, grooves into which the hangers of the frames are inserted. May contain letki. Sometimes several buildings are placed one on top of the other, creating a huge bee house.

Bottom. The beekeeper chooses what it will be - integral from the body or removable. The second option is more practical, because it makes the care of the hive easier, allows you to clean without touching the frames. It is this bottom that makes the treatment of the bee colony as convenient as possible.

The shops. They represent a body, but shortened in height. Not every hive has this component, as a rule, they are used for weak families, as well as during honey collection - this is where honey is stored and stored.

Roof lining. Represents the likeness of a store without recesses for frames located between the roof and the store. It creates a space that improves the living conditions for the bees during roaming, and you can also place feeders or heaters here. And if you place a liner under the lower housing, this will help create excellent conditions for insects for wintering.

Roof. For its manufacture, use flat materials- plywood, boards, and top with thin sheets of iron.

Framework. Nesting frames are used to create honeycombs, and sectional frames are used to harvest honey.

feeder. Applications - feeding insects or treatment.

The easiest for a novice beekeeper who decides to create a hive with his own hands is classic design- a body with twenty frames, two compartments, a roof and magazines. By appearance such a hive looks like an oblong box with a thickened bottom and roof.

Drawings and materials

It is not difficult to make a hive for bees with your own hands, but before you start work, you should decide what materials it will be made of. The options may be:

Having chosen the most suitable material, you should start making a hive with your own hands, you can also draw up drawings yourself or use existing ones.

When choosing a drawing, it is very important to pay attention proper organization of ventilation, otherwise there is a risk of destroying the bee colony or forcing it to leave such an uncomfortable house.

Necessary materials and tools

First of all, you need to choose a drawing, on the basis of which the work will be carried out, watching the video will also be useful. For a classic hive (Dadanovsky is considered such), you will need hardwood boards- linden or coniferous trees - pine, cedar, spruce.

When working on a drawing, it is important to remember the following:

• The size of the bee house depends on the required number of frames.
• The width is calculated using the formula: n * 37.5, where n is the number of frames.
• Hive length: add the length of the frame and the number 1.4 cm.
• The height of the hive is equal to the sum of the heights of all frames and folds.

The main thing is that the boards should be thoroughly dried. To make the case and the bottom with your own hands, you will need a material 4 cm thick. In order to be able to separate the walls of the case, grooves must be made in the boards.

To make a beehive for bees, you will need certain tools and materials:

• the material from which the hive will be made: wood, polystyrene, plywood;
• for measurements: tape measure / ruler, square;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• drill, screws, drill;
• glue, liquid nails;
• chisels;
• galvanized ten - to cover the roof;
• required number of frames.

Having prepared the necessary material, you should get to work.

Stages of work

To make a hive with your own hands, you must follow a certain procedure:

What color is better to choose for making a hive is chosen by the beekeeper himself, but it is worth remembering that since bees remember white most of all, then the walls of their house should be painted white.

Making a beehive

Drawings of hives for bees of a similar design are easy to find. The key stages of work are as follows:

This instruction will help in making a house for bees with your own hands. After reading the description and studying the video, even a beginner will cope with such work and soon the apiary will be decorated with brand new hives of their own production.

The Dadan hive has stood the test of time - the design was invented at the end of the 19th century. Thoughtful design, simplicity and reliability have made it popular among experienced beekeepers and beginners.

The American Frenchman Dadant in the 60s of the 19th century calculated mathematically the dimensions of the hive. Unfortunately, the work could not be completed. A few years later, another beekeeper, the Swiss Blatt, brought Dadan's work to mind and patented the work as the Dadan-Blatt hive.

In our time, the Dadanovsky hive is represented by several types of structures. The main differences are volume, material and thermal insulation.

Design dimensions are a strategic issue. It is important to understand what is needed in specific conditions.

• 10 frame. Classic scheme of Dadan.
• 12 frame. The square section allows you to arrange the frames in different ways (with warm or cold skid).
• 14 and 16 frame. It's harder to work alone. The increased number of frames creates a greater load on the structure.

Material

High-quality material will last longer, will not warp or rot. Do not use materials with a strong odor.

• Boards. Suitable wood without knots and rot. Insufficiently dried wood will dry out over time, cracks will appear.
• and dvp. Cheaper, easier to handle, but less durable.
• . Lightweight, warm, durable, do not miss sounds.
• . Light, warm, do not miss sounds and are less reliable.

Insulation

Depending on the temperature conditions, choose one of the types:

• Double wall. The walls are double, insulation (sawdust, moss, straw, polystyrene) is laid in the gap between the walls. Keeps you warm in unpredictable spring weather. Recommended in the middle and northern latitudes of Russia.
• Single wall. Lightweight option not designed for low temperatures.

What does it consist of

Regardless of the dimensions and other features, the Dadan-Blatt hive consists of the following elements:

• Frame. Must exactly match the drawing, not have distortions. All other parts of the structure are attached to it. Letok is arranged in the body of the hive.
• Bottom. Usually made removable. The non-removable bottom is tighter and tougher, but complicates the work with bees.
• Extension (shop). It is installed during the period of active honey collection. With the help of special techniques, the uterus is not allowed to lay eggs in the store. In principle, 2 extensions stacked on top of each other can serve as a second body.
• Roof lining. Needed for ventilation and insulation of the hive.
• Roof. Most affected by the weather. The roof is painted in 2-3 layers or sheathed with tin. Roofs are single-pitched, double-pitched and flat.
• Minor structural details (taps, folds).

How to make a twelve-frame hive Dadan with your own hands

The dimensions and drawings of the twelve-frame hive Dadan are given for the single-wall type, since the second walls are built on top of the inner ones, and do not matter.

Preparation for work

With some skill, it is not difficult to make a Dadan hive on your own. There are several important points.

• Storage and processing of wood in a dry place. Only dried wood is used.
• Study the drawings in advance and present the order of work.
• Prepare tools and materials.

A job well done will last a long time. The life of the manufactured hive depends on the material.

Operating procedure

• Workpieces are cut from a 35 mm board according to the drawing. Joints are prepared, folds are selected. The blanks are polished.
• When assembling, wide boards are opposed to narrow boards (if the front bottom board is wide, the bottom side boards are taken narrow).
• The joints are glued. PVA or carpentry (casein) glue is used. It is important that the glue does not have a strong odor and is not toxic to bees.
• The ends of the joints are additionally reinforced with pins or self-tapping screws. Let the glue dry before reassembling.
• The upper notch is drilled, the lower one is cut along the edge of the body.

In the process of manufacturing the bottom, extension and roof, it makes sense to periodically try them on in order to notice errors immediately.

• The removable bottom is made wider and assembled from boards in a quarter (or in another way with good tightness). Three strips are stuffed in such a way as to enter the fold at the bottom of the case. The front side remains without a strap, for ventilation. Boards can be taken thicker than 4 cm, this will make the bottom heavier, but make it stronger.
• The superstructure (store) is assembled similarly to the hull. A fold is selected along the upper edge of the superstructure.
• The roof is put on the body or store. Over time, they change shape a little, so you need to make the roof fit not too tight. Openings for ventilation are arranged on the sides or in the front part. In order for the bees to be transported, you need to close the holes with a fine mesh.

twelve frame hive size

Typical dimensions of the elements of the Dadan hive for 12 frames.

• Rebate depth recommended 18 mm. This means that there is a space of 10 mm between the frame and the top cut.
• The depth of other folds is chosen based on the thickness of the material.
• The gap between the bottom and the frames is 25 mm, for cleaning and for the convenience of the bees.
• The upper notch with a diameter of 25 mm is drilled 70 mm from the upper cut. An arrival board is installed under the entrance.
• The lower notch is 10 mm high and is made almost the entire length of the wall, its length is regulated by special liners.

Drawing twelve-frame hive Dadan

View in the collection of the Dadan hive. Option with two stores and liner.

Hull drawing

To assemble the case, you will need two side and front walls. In the front wall, you will need to drill the upper notch.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

The front wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

Shop drawing

To assemble the store, you will also need two front and 2 side walls.

Side wall of the Dadan store for 12 frames

The front wall of the store Dadan 12 frames

Liner drawing

If necessary, a liner, it is also assembled in the same way as the body and magazine, but has its own dimensions.

Liner Dadan for 12 frames

Roof drawing

The drawing shows a horizontal roof. If you need a slope, you can raise one front wall by 20mm, and do not forget about the side walls in which the maximum external dimension will increase to 100mm, and the minimum will remain 80mm. Also, the right side should be a mirror image of the left.

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 540mm on top or tie a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. From the inside, insulate, and from the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan 12 frames

bottom drawing

When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back (2 without a notch) and the front (2) in which you need to make a 10mm notch in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) from a 25mm board, 470mm * 470mm in size. Having connected 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close the front wall. Under the notch, you can fill a plank.

Bottom Dadan for 12 frames

In the manufacture of the Dadan hive from a 40mm board. internal dimensions do not change. The outer dimension is increased by 10mm and the rebate depth is changed by 21mm.

How to make a ten-frame hive Dadan with your own hands

The manufacturing scheme of the 10th frame hive Dadan is the same as that of the 12th frame hive. You can use 35 mm boards (the load on the structure is now less). Takes up little space and is easier to work with.

Ten frame hive size

Compared to 12 frame, only the length of the side walls changes, and the corresponding dimensions of the roof and bottom.

Drawing of a ten-frame hive Dadan

A ten-frame hive differs from a twelve-frame one only in width.

Hull drawing

The side wall is similar to 12 frame. And the front and back walls are smaller. In the front wall, you need to drill the upper notch.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

The front wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

Shop drawing

As well as for the case, only the dimensions of the front and rear walls change relative to the 12 frame structure.

Side wall of the Dadan store for 10 frames

Roof pad Dadan for 10 frames

Roof drawing

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 470mm on top or tie a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. From the inside, insulate, and from the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan 10 frames

bottom drawing

In the manufacture of the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back (2 without a notch) and the front (2) in which you need to make a notch 10mm in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) in advance from a 25mm board, 470mm * 400mm in size. Having connected 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close the front wall. Under the notch, you can fill a plank.

Frame drawing Dadan

The Dadan-Blatt hive is reliable for mid-latitudes. Standard 12 frame construction is easy to manufacture. Using high-quality material and following the technology, you can count on a long life of the hive.

A simple summer resident or a villager, whose hands begin where they should, can only be prevented from becoming a real beekeeper by a lack of theoretical knowledge. To get started, we offer step-by-step instructions for creating a hive with your own hands. And for starters, here is the main detailed drawing of the product.

For convenience, all parts are numbered here and their exact dimensions are indicated. Design features are:

• Plywood roof with holes made in it for feeding bees;
• Availability hinged sections, which, if desired, can be easily removed and hung back;
• Protective part sheltering bees from bad weather.

Apart from simple tools like a hammer, we also need equipment for welding. Stock up on everything you need in advance. Here is the list:

• Measuring tape measure;
• Paint brushes;
• A simple pencil and black marker;
• Drill and screwdriver (or two in one) with a set of drills;
• Bulgarian;
• welding tool;
• Tabletop.
• Having obtained the tools for work, we begin to stock up on all necessary materials and spare parts provided for by the drawings of the hive:
• Nails 2.5x50;
• Screws with countersunk head 4x25;
• Board 32x18 (about 20 linear meters);
• Plywood sheet 12 mm thick;
• 2 m of mild steel corners and 0.7 m of aluminum (50x50x3);
• 4 sheets of mild steel (80x80x3);
• Linen insulation;
• Facing material;
• Glue and paint.

And now a detailed plan of how to make a beehive. Consider all the steps in stages.

Cutting and marking planks

The width of the slats is 32 mm, the thickness is 18 mm. We cut them in length in accordance with the list presented:

• 600 mm - 10 pcs.;
• 564 mm - 12 pcs.;
• 564 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 564 mm - 1 pc.;
• 486 mm - 4 pcs.;
• 424 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 154 mm - 4 pcs.;
• 424 mm (cut at an angle of 45 °) - 2 pcs.;
• 392 mm (also at 45°) x 2

Drilling pilot holes in planks

Nails should be driven in at an angle, as shown in the photo. To do this, using a cylindrical drill, carefully make small holes.

Now we drill holes in plank #2 in accordance with the image shown.

You can proceed to the next stage of the production of the hive with your own hands.

Assembly of the main node

We carefully assemble the main parts of the structure with the help of glue and nails. Carefully follow the order of the strips and do not make mistakes in the sequence of their connection to each other.

Manufacturing of steel legs

We make 4 structural supports from a steel corner (50x50x3). In accordance with the image, we make holes for the screws. Make sure that they are opposite each other in opposite legs.

If it was not possible to get welding equipment, then you can make a beehive from wood completely, including the legs. But such a design greatly loses in reliability and durability.

Mounting supports

The screws are screwed into the holes in the bottom of the frame. Footboards (80x80x3) should be welded to the corners.

Facing

First of all, we cut out the lining and fasten it with screws, partially overlapping the sections of the hive. For this purpose, it is best to use wood or chipboard.

make a beehive with your own hands. Photo

Taphole device

Letok or the entrance to the hive we make with a jigsaw and a saw. To do this, we cut a hole 460 by 70 mm. We save the cuts, they will be used later.

front view

We fasten the door hinges in such a way that the wooden sections are under them. Using a screwdriver, we install a special heel under the exit. The next step, in accordance with the drawings of the hive, is to install the landing board.

landing board

We mount it taking into account the tray, which will be located on the frame. In no case should the board interfere with the tray. Clean the surface with sandpaper and grinder, then apply a thin layer of paint.

Final build step

We fix insulation and insulate structures. It remains only to securely drive the supports into the ground to prevent the structure from tipping over.

We are sure that everyone can make a hive. It will become a comfortable home for the bee family and will bring many benefits to you and your household.

do-it-yourself beehive step by step instructions. Video master class

How to make a beehive with your own hands in the garage?

The boards, which are a key material in the production of a beehive at home, have certain requirements. First, the wood must be good dried. Secondly, it is not allowed to have knots, resin. Thirdly, the surface of the board must be even. If the material is ready, then you can proceed to the manufacture of the clamp, with which we will carry out gluing. A device measuring 60 by 30 cm will suffice.

The outer size of our hive is 53x53 cm, the inner one is 45x45. Begin cutting boards of the right size

do-it-yourself beehive step by step instructions. Photo master class

If there is a jointer, then it will be easier to make a hive.

Via circular saw carry out trimming boards, and with the help of a jointer we adjust them to the desired thickness of 37 mm. Now you can select the grooves (20 mm) for connecting the elements to each other.

gluing We carry out using ordinary PVA glue. We tighten with a clamp and let the structure dry. This will take 12 hours.

As a result, we should get 4 shields.

For frame hangers we will need to select grooves 10 mm wide from the inside. Most convenient this work done with a cutter. To secure the lid and magazine, the same groove (10x10 mm) is also selected from the outside. In all four panels, a groove is made (20x20 cm). This will be needed to fix the floor. As you can see, the design is quite simple, so we do not need any complex drawings of the hive here.

We will need another stencil but a slightly different size (45x47 cm) for a more accurate fit of the corners in the upper part of the hive, which will be installed in the coat hanger.

Now let's move on to assembly of shields. We perform the operation using screws 60 mm long. It is more convenient to work with a screwdriver. As a result, we have a finished body of the hive.

The front part of the body with a cutout for the notch and hangers for the frames.

Side wall.

Rear wall of the structure.

And this is what the assembled body looks like.

how to make a beehive out of wood. Photo

We cut a hole for the notch with a size of 10x120 mm, this will be enough.

We continue to collect the hive with our own hands and proceed to bottom installation. We collect it from the boards. The size of the shield should be 490x530 mm. Then you should fix the bottom on the body. You can use nails or screws if you wish. To finally fix the bottom of the hive, it is necessary to install bars measuring 50x50x500 mm on it.

The store is assembled in the same way, which is then attached to the body.

The cover of the hive has a size of 530x530 mm. We make it and do not forget to make a pair of ventilation holes (15x150 mm) on the sides, closed from the inside with a mesh.

For a tighter closure of the lid, it is necessary to choose chamfers (10x10 mm) around the entire perimeter. We install plywood (10-12 mm) on the cover, and we attach insulation to it. In our case, this ceiling tiles. It will not allow the hive to overheat sharply. We install a fiberboard sheet on top and, for strength, we fix the entire structure with a sheet of galvanized iron.

We almost managed to make a beehive. It remains only to upholster the corners of the structure with an iron or aluminum strip. So we will add a fortress hive and it will last longer.

Production of various types of beehives

To make we need standard set tools, if available, a woodworking machine, glue and paints and varnishes.

Hive of Dadan-Blatt

The most popular type of hives. To make it as a material, we recommend using lime or willow boards. Here is a step-by-step guide to making a beehive with your own hands.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo

The first stage is the preparation of the material. Cooking board 40 mm thick. She will go to the production of the body and bottom of our hive. To install the walls, it is necessary to sample the grooves. A cutter will help with this. We carry out channels 5 by 10 mm in the middle in the place where the boards will be connected.

We make planks 18x4 mm. We will need them soon.

We use PVA glue to assemble the shield. We lubricate the grooves and slats with them and tightly connect them. After that, let the shields dry well. The result should be 4 shields for the hull and 1 for the bottom.

We connect the shields with screws or nails and glue. This is the single-hull hive of Dadan-Blatt. Now you can cut the notch and paint the structure. The next step is to make the cover.

For the manufacture of a cover and a liner, a board with a thickness of 15 mm is best suited. We process it with something moisture resistant and paint it. Be sure to make a couple of ventilation holes with a diameter of 15 mm.

We give the exact dimensions of all parts of the hive (cm):

• Internal - 45x45x32;
• Selection of a fold under the frame - 1.1x2;
• Fold under the body and stores - 1x1.4;
• Front shield - 53x32x4;
• Back wall - 53x32x4;
• Side shields - 48x32x4.

Here are the design drawings.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo

Hive Boa constrictor

This type is very simple, compact and easy to transport. The design of the Boa constrictor provides for a combined bottom, lid and as many as 10 cases.

Here are the exact dimensions of the hive (mm):

• Housing from the inside - 335x300x135;
• Frontal and rear walls - 30;
• Side part - 20;
• Planks for a frame 5 thick;
• The width of the upper and lower bars - 25;
• Side planks - thickness 35;
• Groove on the top bar - 2x27;
• Frame size - 110x28;
• Board for the cover - 20x8;
• The thickness of the air space under the cover is 30;
• The height of the bars for strapping the bottom is 110;
• Side beam - 20;
• Rear and front bar - 30;
• Letok - 335;
• Fold for the frame - 15.

And these are his drawings.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo

Hive Varre

One of the easiest options for hives that you can make yourself. The body is drawer with 8 rulers. The interval between them should be 12 mm. The ends of the boards are connected directly. The case turns out to be quite rigid due to the grooved connection. In the production of handles, bars of 300x20x20 mm are used. First, they should be glued, and then finally fixed with three nails. In order for rainwater to drain faster, you can slightly bevel the top edge of the handle.

The main feature of the Varre hive is liner. Its size is 5 mm smaller than the size of the case itself. This great advantage, since the cover is very easy to remove, which means that the work of the beekeeper is facilitated. The gap can be increased up to 10 mm. Most often, moss or straw is used as filling for the roof lining, but leaves and shavings can also be used. A fabric made of dense material will help to fix the material.

The cover is made of boards no more than 20 mm thick. Be sure to arrange ventilation.

For the production of the bottom you will need the same boards. The size of the bottom should be narrower than the main body to protect the hive from moisture at the joints.

Detailed drawings of the Varre hive.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo

Hive Ruta

The main feature of the design of this type of hive is the same size of the extension and the nest box. A drawing of the Dadan-Blatt hive can help in production. The only difference is the height nest box.

For the normal development of the brood, two bodies are needed. A spacious hive will significantly increase the egg production of the queen bee.

A diaphragm is provided between the bodies. It is necessary for the formation of layering. Layers will be placed in the upper part, and the bee family will be placed in the lower part.

Below are detailed drawings with which you can make a beehive from Ruta wood.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo

Universal hive Kuznetsov

The design consists of:

• Foundations (2);
• Cases with a bottom and a pallet (1, 3, 11 and 4, 5 respectively);
• Grids for the main body (10);
• Caps (12).

The body is equipped with a special dust collector(6). It consists of several pairs of plates fastened in pairs, which are installed at an angle above the grid. This feature The design is very useful for collecting pollen by bees.

A few drawings that will help you make such a hive with your own hands.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. Photo