Besides that vinyl wallpapers beautiful and practical, they are considered ideal for new buildings. Their non-woven base is elastic, so the wallpaper does not peel off the wall due to their natural shrinkage. For gluing such wallpaper using a special glue. How to glue vinyl wallpaper correctly?
Embossed vinyl wallpapers are very practical, and their decorative characteristics are beyond praise.
What tools are needed
For work, in addition to the wallpaper itself, you will need
- brush for priming walls;
- roller or brush for applying glue to the wallpaper;
- ruler and level;
- roller for rolling seams;
- a special spatula or brush for smoothing the panels;
- paper tape;
- two cotton rags and a sponge, which are necessary for wiping excess glue from the floor and walls;
- stationery knife for cutting wallpaper;
- brush for smearing small areas of wallpaper with glue;
- a wooden spatula, which is used to press and straighten the wallpaper on narrow sections of the walls.
The necessary tools for wallpapering must be clean and in good working order.
How to prepare walls for wallpapering
First of all, remove the remnants of old wallpaper from the walls. Dilute the dry mix for gluing vinyl wallpaper according to the instructions on the package. Walls must be primed. This can be done with glue, or you can use a deep penetration primer. It is also advisable to treat the walls with a special composition before starting work on pasting the walls with vinyl wallpaper, which prevents the appearance of mold under the wallpaper.
After the glue and composition have dried, a vertical line must be drawn on the wall. It will serve as a guide for gluing the first panel. You can focus on the corner only if you are sure that the corners in the room are even. In order to draw the line correctly, use a plumb line.
After that, you need to turn off the electricity in the apartment and remove the sockets and switches from the walls.
Remember that vinyl wallpaper can only be glued to dry walls. They must be cleaned of old coatings, if there are cracks, they should be puttied and the surface leveled. How to check the dryness of the walls? Glue a small piece of polyethylene to the wall with masking tape. If during the night water droplets appear on its inner side, then the walls are not yet dry enough, and you need to wait until they dry completely.
In order for the wallpaper to lay flat and hold firmly, you need to carefully prepare the walls by removing the remnants of old wallpaper from them.
How to make sure the surface is strong before pasting the walls with vinyl wallpaper? Just stick a piece of ordinary tape to the wall, pull it back sharply and look at the wrong side. If there are remnants of old plaster or paint, the wall cannot be considered prepared. Do not forget to level and prime the walls before gluing the vinyl wallpaper.
Wall papering work should be carried out in a room where there is no draft. Close all windows and turn off fans and air conditioners. It is not recommended to glue new wallpapers on old ones. The walls must be completely cleaned. Turn on fans and air conditioners, open windows only after the wallpaper has completely dried.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper: step by step instructions
Cut the wallpaper into strips, leaving a 10 cm allowance along the length of each strip. If you bought vinyl wallpaper with a pattern, carefully select the height of the adjacent panels. Fold the sliced adjacent panels of wallpaper on top of each other with a pattern down. Stack no more than 10 strips in each pile. Each strip should be shifted relative to the bottom one by 10-15 cm.
Coating the edges of the canvas with glue is a particularly important operation that requires attention and diligence, because it depends on how strong the joints between the wallpaper strips will be.
Step 2: apply glue
How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper so that the strip joints are almost invisible? The panels should not overlap each other, the wallpaper should be glued end-to-end. You can start work only after the primer has completely dried. First, apply glue to the wall section under the first panel. After that, glue is applied under the second canvas, etc. There are varieties of vinyl wallpaper where you only need to coat the wallpaper with glue, and not the walls, and there are those where you need to apply glue to both the wall and the wallpaper. For information on how to apply the adhesive, read on the wallpaper roll.
Almost everything is provided in modern repair technologies, therefore, a convenient and effective roller can be used to smooth the joints between the canvases.
Step 3: Wallpapering
It's better to do it together. One person stands on a stepladder and applies the top edge of the wallpaper to the wall under the ceiling. The other, while standing on the floor, supports the lower end of the strip, neatly aligns the edges with the vertical line drawn along the wall. The panel should be slightly pressed against the wall and the air bubbles should be pushed out with a brush from top to bottom from the axis to the edges. It is very important to wipe off excess glue if it has come out at the edge of the wallpaper. Do this with a clean cloth, not a brush.
Wallpaper is smoothed from top to bottom in the directions indicated in the photo
Step 4: trim the edges of the wallpaper
After the panel is glued, excess material remains near the baseboard and under the ceiling. The excess must be cut off with a knife along the ruler. The lower edge of the wallpaper is bent onto the plinth by 4-6 mm. It is very important to use only a sharpened knife when cutting, if its blade is blunt, the wallpaper will tear and wrinkle. If you use a utility knife, change the blade periodically as you work.
Step 5: Technique for gluing vinyl wallpaper in "problem areas"
Problems when pasting walls with wallpaper most often occur when cutting off excess canvas from the bottom of the plinth, from the top by the ceiling, at switches and sockets, in the corners.
If you did not remove the baseboard before starting work, the wallpaper should be inserted into the joint between the wall and the baseboard. At the same time, the remaining part of the lower edge is cut off and a strip is glued to overlap the seam and part of the plinth. But it is best to remove the plinth before starting work. When the wallpaper is pasted, the plinth is screwed into place.
Cutting the wallpaper at the plinth must be done with a special knife so that the cut is even and neat
The edge of the panel adjacent to the ceiling should be tucked in by about 5 cm so that the glue does not stain the ceiling. Then the strip of wallpaper must be pressed against the wall from above and smoothed out with a brush from below. If you are not gluing the wallpaper up to the ceiling (for example, you decide to combine two types of wallpaper or you have painted part of the wall), mark with a pencil the border of the upper part of the panel around the entire perimeter before gluing. It is on this strip that you will be guided when gluing.
In the corners, you should leave extra wallpaper to the depth of the niche and allowance. It is necessary to make cuts on the panel from below and from above. Pressing the canvas, it is bent around the corner, and then carefully cut off. The joints and overlappings of the wallpaper must be firmly pressed against the base so that the bonding is strong.
Today you can often find vinyl wallpapers in the kitchen, where their strength, practicality and ease of use are especially relevant.
If you decide to stick wallpaper behind the batteries, the canvas should go no further than 10-20 cm beyond the heating radiator. Use a narrow roller with a long handle to press the wallpaper against the wall. Near switches and sockets, wallpaper, as a rule, is not cut in advance, but glued directly to the holes. When the glue dries, holes are cut into the wallpaper. Switches and sockets are screwed into place after completion of work.
Video master class: how to glue vinyl wallpaper
How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper, preparation, gluing, working with corners.
In the previous article, we examined in detail the types of vinyl wallpaper:
Someone will say that sticking vinyl wallpaper is not much different from sticking paper-based wallpaper. But when you read this article, you will understand that there are quite a few differences. And if you do not take them all into account, then the wallpaper may fall off the next day, and you will have to do everything again, taking into account those nuances that you did not want to remember.
Tools
So, you will need to stock up on a fairly serious list of tools. First, you need a special brush designed to prime the wall and then apply glue to the vinyl wallpaper. Further, instead of a sponge, it is better to take a roller, which will roll the seams. You will also need a special spatula with which you will smooth the wallpaper, a soft sponge or cotton rag with which excess glue is removed, a brush with which you will smear small wallpaper areas. On the little things, you need to have scissors, a cutting knife, a level, a tape measure, paper tape, a ruler, and a wooden spatula, with which you will press and straighten narrow sections of wallpaper, for example, at the corners. Perhaps everything.
Wall preparation
Before sticking vinyl wallpaper, do the traditional preparation of the walls. You will need a special dry adhesive mixture for vinyl wallpaper, which must be diluted with water according to the instructions. Prime the walls with this adhesive over the entire surface. If you can't find glue, you can stock up on a deep-penetrating primer, which is common everywhere. Further, since the wallpaper is heavy and does not pass air very well, the walls must be treated with a fungicidal composition, protecting them from the appearance of mold under the canvases. After the glue and composition have dried, take a thread with a weight and fill a vertical line on the wall. This will be your guide for pasting the first wallpaper. At the end of the procedure, turn off the electricity, remove all switches and sockets.
Additional Information
If you do not know how to glue vinyl wallpaper, and have never done it before, it is advisable to have a person nearby who, as they say, is “in the know”.
Wallpapers are glued only on a dry, leveled surface, which is especially important for wide embossed vinyl wallpapers. The old coating must be removed from the walls. Cracks need to be puttied, the surface should be leveled.
You can check the dryness of the walls with a small piece of cellophane and masking tape, with which this cellophane will be glued to the wall. Leave the material overnight. If in the morning water drops form on the inside of the cellophane, then the dryness of the walls is not enough to glue vinyl wallpaper on them. Will have to dry more.
The strength of the wall covering is checked using ordinary adhesive tape. Stick a piece on the wall and pull back sharply. Look at the back of the tape. If there are particles of plaster or old paint, then the wall needs to be prepared: remove old layers, deal with priming and leveling.
Any person who knows how to properly glue vinyl wallpaper will tell you that the room should never be drafty. Air conditioners, fans, open windows - all this is a terrible taboo! Drafts are welcome only after the pasted wallpaper is completely dry.
Never glue a new wallpaper over an old one. The latter must be completely removed from the wall. Wet them with water, wait a bit, and then they will be removed with a spatula without any problems.
Wallpaper preparation
Cut the wallpaper into strips along the height of the wall, but with a 10 cm allowance in reserve. If you are cutting vinyl wallpaper with silk-screen printing or a regular pattern, then you first need to select the pattern of neighboring canvases with the maximum match. Fold wallpaper strips together pattern side down. Each stack should consist of 10 wallpaper strips, no more. And each strip should shift relative to the neighboring one by at least 1.5 centimeters. Best to take meter wallpaper, which allow you to minimize problems with the selection of the pattern and the correct cutting.
How is the adhesive applied?
Vinyl wallpapers are glued only end-to-end. This means that the panels should not find one on top of the other. After the primer has dried on the wall, you can start the gluing process. First, apply glue to the section of the wall where the first panel will be located. Stick the canvas on the wall, coat the next one and glue it. The sequence of actions is repeated until the end of the work.
Additional Information
You need to work with glue very carefully, since a careless attitude will lead to the adhesive composition getting on the front side of the wallpaper.
Allow the mixed glue to swell well, standing for 5-10 minutes after kneading. This rule must be written in the instructions.
Read the information on the vinyl wallpaper roll. It is possible that the glue needs to be applied not only to the wall, but also to the wallpaper.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper?
Technology of correct gluing. Wallpapering alone will not work. Only double. And even faster - the three of us. One worker stands on a stepladder or on a chair and applies the top edge of the canvas to the wall. Another worker holds the lower end of the strip on the floor, aligning the edge of the wallpaper with the designated vertical line. Next, a slight pressure of the wallpaper strip to the base is carried out, after which all air bubbles are displaced with a brush. Brush work from top to bottom and from the axis towards the edges. If you notice any glue sticking out from the edge of the canvas, quickly wipe it off with a clean cloth, not a brush!
Trimming the edges
When gluing wallpaper under the ceiling and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe baseboards, you should have excess material cut off along the ruler with a knife. In this case, the lower edge of the strip should go on the plinth by about 5 millimeters. Wallpaper cutting is done only with a sharp knife. If the blade is blunt, it will tear or dent wallpaper that is not yet dry with glue. Change the fast-dulling blade regularly during the pruning process.
Canvas at the plinth
If you didn't remove the baseboard before you started, insert the bottom edge of the wallpaper between the wall and the baseboard. The remaining part is cut off and glued with a strip on top, which will allow you to close the seam and the top of the plinth. I strongly recommend that you remove the baseboard before wallpapering, so that it does not interfere with your work. At the end of gluing, it is nailed or put back.
Gluing the top
The edge of the wallpaper sheet adjacent to the ceiling must be tucked 5 centimeters to protect the ceiling from glue. After that, the wallpaper strip is pressed against the wall from above and smoothed down with a brush. Other canvases are glued similarly. If you are not gluing the wallpaper to the ceiling (for example, you have paint or plaster on the top of the wall), then you must first mark the upper border of the gluing area on the wall with a pencil. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the room. The strip will help you orient yourself in the process of work.
Working with corners
In the corners, you need to leave extra vinyl wallpaper to the depth of the existing niche, taking into account the allowance. After that, cuts are made from above and below, and the panel is bent around the corner by pressing. Next, the wallpaper is carefully cut off, and in the corners of the overlapping panels and joints, they are strongly pressed against the wall, ensuring tight gluing. I note that at the corners of the room, the wallpaper should go to the other side by a maximum of 3-4 centimeters. At the same time, on the other wall, the first canvas is glued from the very corner, covering the previous 3-4 centimeters.
Sockets, switches, batteries
Behind the batteries, the walls should be pasted over by about 10-20 centimeters, no more. Pressing the wallpaper against the wall is carried out using a narrow roller equipped with a long handle. They can work both behind the battery (top, bottom, side), and through the radiator fins. Near switches and sockets, the wallpaper is not cut in advance. They are glued directly to the holes. Only after the glue has dried can the cut be made.
General information about wallpapering walls:
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Many ordinary people are interested in how to glue vinyl wallpaper. We will fulfill this wish, but first we will help you figure out why these wallpapers have become extremely popular and what these finishing materials are.
Vinyl wallpapers take their countdown from the middle of the last century, the creators of which were two American engineers, one of whom discovered the excellent properties of polyvinyl chloride, and the other applied this material to a paper base. Unfortunately, only in our time people have appreciated this unique material, which has rightfully become the leader in sales and all kinds of ratings. Therefore, the interest of the layman in vinyl wallpaper is quite natural, as can be seen from numerous requests on the Internet. Topic " How to stick vinyl wallpaper?“Constantly heard.
Vinyl wallpaper - types, characteristics
Today, manufacturers have launched the production of two types of vinyl wallpaper, which differ in their underlying basis, in one case it can be paper, in the other - interlining. However, this is not the only difference on the market today. building materials wallpapers of this category are available for sale, the component of which is foamed polyvinyl, thanks to which an excellent structure of the material is created.
It has an unusually dense, non-standard heterogeneity of texture, thanks to which the wall surface can not be brought to an ideal degree of evenness, which is a prerequisite for wallpapers of other categories. The material will hide minor flaws and defects, while its surface will look perfectly smooth.
And, of course, the characteristics of vinyl wallpapers deserve attention - they are almost flawless and meet the requirements of modern times.
When buying this material, you should pay attention to the icons applied by the manufacturer on the packaging of each roll.
First It's a way to apply glue. The indicator is very significant, it should be strictly adhered to when sticking vinyl wallpaper. Because manufacturers offer varieties that prescribe in one case to apply glue to the wall, in the other directly to the back of the wallpaper strip. These are two completely different production processes. And now add to them one more option, in which the wallpaper comes with an adhesive layer applied to them at the factory.
Secondly, spend some time studying the characteristics of wallpapers, which are divided according to their effectiveness in resisting moisture and dampness:
- Water resistance during processing.
- Stability during wet processing.
- High stability during wet processing.
- Resistance to mechanical influences (it is allowed to wash with a brush).
- High resistance to mechanical influences.
Preparing the wall surface for wallpapering
The beginning of pasting the walls with wallpaper is preceded by the removal of the previous finishing materials from the surface (of course, if the apartment is not from a new building). Old wallpaper can be removed quite easily, just wet them with water (preferably warm) with a sponge or paint roller, wait a while so that they are well saturated with moisture, and then, using a spatula, separate from the wall.
In the case when the previous coating on the wall is made water-based paint, a drill with a metal nozzle in the form of a brush should be used. And so, regardless of the previous finishing material, the old coating must be removed. To carry out this work independently is quite within the power of any inhabitant, the main thing is that there is a desire.
Then a thorough examination of the surface is necessary to identify and remove the identified defects and flaws. Cracks, grooves, chips and other little things can be repaired with putty or plaster. The freshly applied leveling material must be given time to dry, after which the surface should be primed with a deep penetration primer mixture, dried and a leveling finishing coat of putty should be applied again.
But, since now we are talking about pasting the walls with vinyl wallpaper, the first layer of putty will be enough, which, together with the removal of defects, will simultaneously be a leveling layer, which will remain to be brought to relative evenness with fine-grained sandpaper and primed (and also give the primer time to dry). And if any roughness remains, the wallpaper material itself will absorb them.
We draw your attention to the fact that when choosing a primer, you should be careful, because there is a huge range of these products on the building materials market. And you should choose a special adhesive for vinyl wallpaper. But if it so happened that for some reason it is not available at the moment, you can use wallpaper glue, which should be diluted with water to a liquid state. Such a mixture is also very well suited for priming walls for gluing vinyl wallpaper.
Having finished with all the preparatory work on the wall with a plumb line, you need to apply a vertical line, it will become a reference line that sets the correct wallpapering in a strictly vertical direction. It is very simple to carry out this process - on one of the walls under the ceiling, tighten the self-tapping screw, to which tie a plumb line. The plumb line itself will pull the thread, you just have to draw a parallel line on the wall with a pencil and a long ruler, which will become the starting line for placing the first wallpaper strip.
Once again, we remind you that vinyl wallpapers have a high density, which allows you to effectively cover minor defects and flaws on the wall surface. Therefore, having opted for vinyl wallpaper, in the implementation preparatory work you can not waste time on the finishing leveling putty layer, which helps to save labor costs and finances.
We cover the walls with vinyl wallpaper
Wallpapers of this type are made of a sufficiently large width, which helps to reduce joints. It would be more correct and rational if you prepare wallpaper strips before you start wallpapering, you need to cut enough strips to cover all the walls of the room (to calculate the need for strips, you need to perform simple arithmetic operations). The length of the strip should be equal to the height of the surface to be glued plus five to ten centimeters of tolerance for various unforeseen circumstances.
Next, the adhesive mixture comes into play, we apply it in accordance with the icon on the roll, that is, either on the wall or on the back of the wallpaper strip. It is better to apply the glue with a paint roller, which will evenly distribute the glue over the surface, while it is better to coat the surface with glue only under one strip, and after gluing it, proceed to glue the next section of the wall.
After that, the top and bottom of the strip are brought together (back side inward), raised to the ceiling and, holding the top of the wallpaper strip, unfold it to the bottom, making sure that it lies exactly along the drawn line that you applied earlier. Next, with a rubber roller or a plastic spatula, we level the strip, at the same time squeezing out the remaining air under the material. For a snug fit of the material to the surface, leveling should be carried out from top to bottom and simultaneously from the center of the wallpaper strip to its edges. The subsequent entertainment of pasted wallpapers depends on the thoroughness of this process.
Vinyl wallpaper is much easier to glue than paper wallpaper, because unlike their counterparts, vinyl strips are laid end-to-end. Although some masters use the technology of their overlapping stickers, they do it at the expense of a little trick - they impose the next strip on the previous one with an overlap of about two to three centimeters. After mounting the second canvas, a vertical cut is made in the middle of the strips located one on top of the other. Then the upper cut strip is removed, and the lower one, which is located under the second strip, should also be removed. After that, the edge of the second strip must be glued. Get a smooth joint, almost invisible to the eye. This technique speeds up the pasting process and reduces the possibility of gaps between the strips.
We described the option in which the wall surface is smeared with glue, and if the wallpaper strips themselves are smeared with glue, then the prepared wallpaper blank should be placed on the floor and the back side of the material should be smeared with the adhesive mixture. It is also better to do this with a roller, thanks to which you can achieve a uniform adhesive layer. Wallpaper should be applied to the wall surface 5-6 minutes after coating with glue - this time is enough for the material to be well saturated. The further gluing process is carried out according to the same technology as when applying glue to the wall surface.
If you are applying glue to a wallpaper strip, use moderation, because a small layer of the mixture is enough, the main thing is that the material is smeared with glue thoroughly and evenly.
Also, after placing the wallpaper strip on the wall, avoid stretching the material to the sides. And no less important - timely remove the remnants of glue, do not allow it to dry. This is best done with a clean, soft cloth.
- It is advisable to stick vinyl wallpaper at an indoor temperature of no higher than 23 degrees Celsius.
- For the period of work, the room should be protected from drafts.
- If this is your first time installing vinyl wallpaper, practice using it on the wall of a secondary room that can then be covered with furniture, carpet, or other items.
- Thoroughly prepare for the gluing process, you should have at hand all the materials and tools necessary to perform such work, up to rags for wiping your hands.
- When diluting wallpaper paste, the dry adhesive mixture should be poured into a container with water in small portions, stirring it constantly. We emphasize once again - glue is added to water, but not vice versa!
So, we figured out how to qualitatively paste wall surfaces with vinyl wallpaper and it becomes clear that it is practically not much different from sticking any other types of wallpaper. At least at the main stages one to one. Therefore, the average person, who at least once had to glue wallpaper, will also be able to perform the process of sticking vinyl wallpaper, and moreover, at a high level, in no way inferior to the work of a highly qualified master.
The main thing is not to rush and follow the wise life advice - it is better to measure seven times than to cut off once.
The question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper is increasingly being asked by those who have started self-repair, as this type of finishing material has become extremely popular. This increased demand is explained by the widest variety of patterns, reliefs and colors, as well as the wall pasting technology available to everyone, subject, of course, to certain requirements.
However, not many accurately represent that there are many types of vinyl wallpaper, which can radically differ in structure and textured surface. Therefore, for starters, it’s worth figuring out what this material is, what properties it has, and what varieties of it can be found in stores.
What is vinyl wallpaper
The main advantages of vinyl wallpaper
Vinyl wallpaper appeared in our area in the seventies of the last century. They were then called "washable", and they belonged to the category of super-scarce goods. The first wallpapers of this type "did not breathe", that is, they had almost zero vapor permeability, they did not let air through at all. Over time, the technologists of manufacturing companies have made numerous improvements to the structure of this finishing material, and today the assortment of stores offers a wide selection of vinyl wallpapers, which radically differ from their predecessors in their improved qualities and appearance.
Today, vinyl wallpapers are produced on a paper and non-woven basis. Such a substrate, the main task of which is to ensure the most reliable fixation of the wallpaper on the walls, is covered on the front side with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (it is this material that is colloquially called vinyl). Since such a finish is often designed for use in rooms with high humidity, many manufacturers introduce special antifungal, antiseptic components into the composition.
Polyvinyl chloride coating is characterized by increased surface strength and excellent resistance to mechanical stress, especially abrasive, abrasive properties. On such a coating, due to its hydrophobicity, pollution is “reluctantly” retained, so some types of vinyl wallpaper are the best suited for wall decoration in kitchens.
It is the top layer of vinyl wallpaper that has decorative embossing, and thanks to innovative production technologies, it is able to imitate some natural and artificial materials. Modern varieties are for the most part "breathable" because their coating has a porous structure that is able to pass vapors without much delay. Thus, the walls do not accumulate moisture, since the possibility of its free evaporation is created. This property of the finishing material allows it to adhere well to surfaces without peeling off them due to increased moisture in the room.
At the same time, in the process of washing the wallpaper, water and detergents do not penetrate under the coating, but quickly evaporate from their surface, thanks to micropores closed from the outside.
Vinyl wallpapers are becoming an increasingly popular finish due to other advantages over other types of wall coverings in this range. The material is characterized by stable coloration, which does not change its original appearance under the influence of ultraviolet rays. A high-quality and properly glued coating is quite durable and can last for decades, until the homeowners simply get bored.
The main disadvantage, which, however, is fully justified, is the high price of this material. However, this circumstance does not in any way reduce the popularity and does not reduce the sales of vinyl wallpapers, since they are able to transform the room beyond recognition.
A properly selected wallpaper pattern can visually expand or narrow a room, make the ceiling lower or higher, which is often necessary in small areas of urban apartments.
Vinyl wallpapers are easily glued and leveled on surfaces, so they are often used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. The ornate drawings applied to the canvases are able to hide the flaws of the walls at their junctions with the ceiling, since even in the apartments of panel houses there are quite often significant differences in this line. Some types of these wallpapers are able to perfectly mask even small flaws in the walls, due to their thickness, density and applied relief pattern.
vinyl wallpapers
Existing varieties of vinyl wallpaper
Nowadays, the consumer has the opportunity to choose one of several types of vinyl wallpaper, depending on the room in which they are planned to be used. Each of them is good in its own way, if properly glued to prepared surfaces.
- silkscreen- this is the most popular type of vinyl wallpaper for decorating the walls of living rooms and bedrooms, as the paintings have a very attractive and spectacular outer coating, which, due to its texture and inclusions, usually imitates natural silk. A similar design move is achieved by hot stamping, which, in addition to an aesthetic appearance, also gives mechanical strength and resistance to fading of the paints used.
There is important condition- such wallpapers should be pasted only on well-aligned wall surfaces, otherwise all flaws will appear through the coating, spoiling the expected result.
- Smooth and hard the vinyl layers applied to the base are quite thin, but have good density and strength. A hard coating differs from a smooth layer in its more pronounced resistance to mechanical stress. A smooth coating is more delicate, therefore it can withstand only a slight external influence. These types of wallpapers, like silk-screen printing, are not able to mask the flaws of the walls, therefore they require a perfectly flat surface.
- Foamed vinyl. This material, applied to the backing, creates the thickest decorative outer layer of any other type of vinyl wallpaper. It is the most durable and dense, and has a three-dimensional pattern. It is the relief of the surface of the paintings that can hide minor defects on the walls.
This type of coating is produced by applying a polyvinyl chloride mass to the base, and then pressing the relief under the simultaneous influence of high temperatures.
Wall covering with vinyl wallpaper
The main features of gluing vinyl wallpaper
When sticking vinyl wallpaper, you must constantly keep in mind some of the features of this process.
- Of decisive importance when performing work on wall decoration with this material is right choice adhesive compound.
- Since, when glue is applied to their surface, non-woven or paper-based material tends to stretch, and shrink when dried, the seams between the canvases can noticeably diverge. Therefore, for vinyl wallpaper, you should purchase a special glue that is able to hold heavy canvases on a vertical plane and at the same time prevent their linear deformation.
- Glue can be applied only to the wallpaper or to both surfaces, that is, to the canvas and the wall at the same time. If the wall surfaces are pre-treated with a primer (or the same wallpaper glue), then only wallpaper sheets are smeared. In addition, you need to pay attention to the packaging, each of the rolls has recommendations for applying glue.
- Glue consumption when working with vinyl wallpaper is much lower than when pasting walls with paper decorative canvases. When purchasing glue, you should pay attention to its packaging, which indicates how many rolls it is designed for.
- Vinyl wallpapers of all types are glued only end-to-end, as they have a fairly dense structure and a relief surface, and the foamed look of the canvases is also a serious thickness.
- When applying glue to sheets, special attention must be paid to the edges of the sheets. They must be well smeared with the composition, otherwise the canvases will diverge and spoil at the joints. appearance the entire surface.
How to calculate the number of wallpapers?
Before going to the store for finishing material for walls, you should make calculations of the required amount. This process is especially important if the wallpaper is to be joined according to the pattern. If there is no idea about the algorithm for such calculations, then we recommend that you read the article on our portal, which details the procedure and all the necessary explanations for it.
Finishing Tools
For pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper, in addition to glue, you will need the following tools:
- Roller with soft nozzle and brush - for priming walls and for applying glue
- A rubber roller for smoothing canvases on the walls and a narrow one for rolling joints.
- Building level, plumb line, ruler, building square, pencil - for marking.
- Plastic spatula for squeezing out excess glue and air bubbles from under the canvases.
- Sponge and soft cloth to remove excess glue that has come out at the joints.
- Stationery knife with replaceable blades.
- Metal wide spatula.
- Masking tape.
Wall preparation for wallpaper
In order for the wallpaper to hold and look neat on the wall, the surfaces must be carefully prepared. It should not be assumed that this is not a particularly important process - it will depend on it how effectively the coating will look and general form rooms. In addition, if the walls are good, then the work will be much easier and faster.
The process of preparing the walls is not the most pleasant experience, as it is quite long and “dirty”, but in no case should this stop homeowners, since the result will please for many years.
So, with patience and having prepared everything necessary tools you can start this process.
wallpaper glue
Cleaning the walls from the old coating
If you plan to stick wallpaper on walls that have an old coating - wallpaper, whitewash or paint, then it must be removed. As a rule, this task is not easy - sometimes even ordinary wallpaper, once glued "in good faith", are difficult to separate from the surfaces. Therefore, to facilitate this process, you must use one of several proven methods.
Wall cleaning from wallpaper
Old pasted wallpapers can be removed with a spatula, but preliminary operations are usually carried out to soften the canvases and to separate them from the walls as simply as possible.
- Paper wallpapers are soaked with a soapy solution, which can be applied to them with a roller or sponge. The coating is moistened several times so that it is well saturated, and there are signs of its separation from the wall.
First application soap solution is made on the entire wall, and then it can be applied to the area that will be cleaned first.
In addition to soaking with a solution and a roller, often enough to remove paper sheets, a steam iron or a special device is used through which steam is supplied to the wallpaper under pressure.
Depending on the composition used earlier for wallpapering, they can be separated easily, immediately in whole sheets, and in other cases, you will have to make an effort and work with a spatula, cleaning off pieces of different sizes.
- , washable or two-layer wallpaper, in order to wet them through with high quality, cuts are made on the sheets with a sharp knife or punctures are applied with a spiked roller.
When the canvases begin to lag behind the walls, they can be removed in large pieces or also using a spatula.
Some craftsmen prefer to remove only the front layer from two-layer wallpaper, and use the bottom paper layer as the basis for a new coating. This is not recommended, as it is best to inspect the wall for cracks or cracks at the joints of the walls and ceiling. The remaining paper layer will interfere with the normal revision of the surface, and if defects nevertheless form under it, then over time they can negatively affect the new coating.
Removing multi-layer whitewash
If several layers of whitewash have been applied to the wall, and it is cracked in some areas, looks uneven and begins to separate from the surface with bubbles, then it will have to be removed, otherwise the work on decorating the wall with wallpaper will be done in vain.
To remove whitewash, it also needs to be soaked. If the coating layer is thin, then it is washed off the wall with water, to which a little vinegar is added. Of course, this coating cannot be removed with one flush, so the process is carried out two or three times with the surface wiped with a dry cloth.
A thin layer of whitewash can also be removed by applying grinder with brush head. This method will significantly speed up the work, but using it, you must definitely have a respirator and goggles, since the removed whitewash under the influence of high speeds of the tool will scatter, and in a few minutes nothing will be visible in the room due to fine white dust.
A thick layer of whitewash will have to be soaked several times until it begins to separate from the wall. Soaking begins from the ceiling or from the area where cracks or shedding have formed on the coating. Water is applied using a roller or a large sponge.
Removing old paint
It would seem that it is impossible to remove the paint without a trace from the wall, especially if it is applied in a thin layer. However, you can use a few simple methods to carry out this process. Moreover, each of the masters can choose for himself the most acceptable.
- Chemical method thinning of the paint, making it easy to clean it off with a spatula. A special composition is applied to a small section of the wall with a brush, and aged for a certain time indicated on the packaging of the solution.
Under the influence of such a solvent, the paint begins to melt and separate from any surface, be it concrete, wood or metal. Such solutions are suitable for all paints on the market, ranging from automotive to enamel or oil. Using chemical composition, it is necessary to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and your eyes with special goggles. It is advisable to carry out these works by organizing effective ventilation of the room.
- Another way to remove paint from a wall is to apply building hair dryer and the scraper included in its kit, or an ordinary spatula. Under the influence of high temperatures, the paint becomes plastic, and without waiting for it to cool and harden, the coating is cleaned to the ground.
- Another way to rid the walls of paint is abrasive cleaning using a drill or grinder with special nozzles. This process requires patience and time, as it is quite lengthy. Cleaning the wall with this method, you can not do without protective equipment for the respiratory tract and eyes.
Leveling the surface of the walls
If, after removing the decorative coating, a plaster layer is found under it, it is necessary to conduct a thorough revision. The coating must be even, free from cracks, unstable areas and shedding. In order to make sure that it fits securely against the wall, the layer is tapped.
If some areas of the coating will give a dull sound, then the plaster has moved away from the wall. These places are removed to the ground and sealed.
If the damage covers large areas, then it is better to remove the plaster completely and apply a new leveling layer.
In the event that cracks, potholes or serious irregularities are found on the cleaned wall, in the presence of, in general, high-quality plaster, they must be repaired or removed. If this is not done in advance, in the future the crack may diverge and be able to pull the wallpaper along with it.
The detected cracks expand and deepen, then they are cleaned and covered to the full depth with a primer. After that, small gaps are filled with a special repair sealant, and for wider cracks, you can use mounting foam. These materials are plastic and will fill the entire cavity well, and after drying they will not crack, unlike putty or cement mortar. After the sealant or foam has cured, their excess is cut off flush with the general surface of the wall.
Sometimes you have to resort to full plastering of the surface
If serious irregularities or delaminations are found on the surface, then the wall covering will have to be completely renewed. Detailed instructions on the implementation of this stage of work can be found in a separate article of the portal dedicated to.
Walls that are in good condition and do not require leveling with plaster should be primed after the cracks have been repaired. The primer is applied using a roller with a long handle. V hard-to-reach places and in the corners with a brush. Sometimes one layer of this composition is enough, but most often it is necessary to prime the surfaces two to three times. The number of layers directly depends on the condition of the wall and the material from which it is built. The primer greatly increases the adhesion of the wall and the materials covering it, and also disinfects its surface, penetrating deep into the pores.
After the primer layers have dried, you can proceed to the final leveling of the walls with putty. A layer of putty is designed to level minor wall irregularities and is applied evenly over the entire area.
Putty walls are brought to perfect condition
Carrying out the process final alignment requires good skill and knowledge of certain rules. How to make a putty mortar or purchase it ready-made - all this can be found in a special article on our portal.
When the putty dries, it must be well sanded to perfect smoothness, otherwise all the bumps that could remain on the surface will appear through the vinyl wallpaper. For grinding, you will need a trowel, on which a grinding mesh is first fixed, which will remove larger irregularities, and then - sandpaper with medium or fine grain, capable of bringing smoothness to the ideal.
Grinding the walls is done in a circular motion counterclockwise. Work usually starts from the top corner of the wall, gradually moving to another corner of the room, covering the entire surface. The pressure on the trowel should be light, as the putty layer is usually only 2÷3 mm thick.
It should be remembered that this process is quite dusty, so it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes.
The process of preparing the walls is completed with their high-quality priming
The primer of the walls before sticking wallpaper on them is mandatory, as it will contribute to a good adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall, and also protect the internal surfaces from mold at the corners of the external walls. Therefore, do not neglect this process. In order to choose the right composition and qualitatively apply it to the walls, we recommend that you study the article, which can be found on our portal.
Wall covering with vinyl wallpaper
To begin with, it is worth giving a few tips on gluing paintings to the walls and preparing the room for this process. These recommendations will be especially useful for those who will be engaged in such a finish for the first time, since the reliability of fixing the paintings on the walls will depend on their implementation.
- Vinyl wallpapers are glued only on well-dried walls. To check how dry they are, you need to glue a piece of polyethylene with a size of approximately 500 × 500 mm to the wall with masking tape overnight. The adhesive tape secures the polyethylene along its edges so that an airtight space remains inside. If drops of moisture form between the film and the wall in the morning, then the surfaces are not dry enough, so you should wait until they are completely dry.
- Before you start wallpapering the walls, you should close windows and doors, and turn off air conditioners and fans, since a draft is absolutely contraindicated for this work. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to flaking of the canvases from the surfaces. So, having come in the morning to check the result of the work, the wallpaper can be found on the floor. Turn on air conditioners and fans, as well as open windows and doors only after the adhesive under decorative coating dry completely.
- Before you start gluing the wallpaper, first, at the junction of the ceiling and walls, along the broken horizontal line, the ceiling cornice is fixed on the glue. It will be convenient to carefully trim the upper edge of the canvas along it.
Wall marking
Marking the walls for wallpapering is not as easy as it seems at first glance. But this stage of work is extremely important, and if it is not carried out, then the canvases will go away from the vertical line and they will have to be peeled off, and then aligned and glued correctly. Alteration can adversely affect the appearance of the wallpaper, so it is best to glue them according to the markup.
Find out with instructions for beginner finishers from a new article on our portal.
Usually the room has a quadrangular shape with internal corners. Wallpaper sticker should be started from the edge of the window or from the corner closest to it.
If the work will be carried out from the corner, then you should immediately check its verticality. In order for the first canvas to be displayed perfectly evenly, it is necessary to retreat from the corner of the room towards the pasting by the width of the wallpaper sheet minus 20 ÷ 30 mm.
non-woven wallpaper
Next, a plumb line with a colored cord is taken and fixed at the top mark. If there is an assistant, then he can hold the cord at the top, and the plumb line goes down, defining a strict vertical. After that, the cord is pulled and released, leaving a straight vertical line on the wall. One side of the first canvas of wallpaper will be equal to it. Subsequent sheets will then be joined to it. The other side of the first sheet will be driven into a corner, with a transition to another wall, and even if the corner is not perfectly vertical, this will not be very noticeable there.
Then, from the vertical marked line on the wall, the width of the wallpaper roll is laid off and another line is beaten off according to the marks. So the borders of gluing the next sheet will be marked on both sides. There is no particular point in drawing out the entire wall - it will simply be necessary to regularly monitor the verticality of the glued canvases so that they do not skew. True, some finishers prefer to make a vertical marking reference line for each sheet before sticking it.
Glue kneading
The adhesive solution for wallpaper should be infused a little, so it must be diluted in advance before proceeding with the preparation of the wallpaper. Making glue is not difficult at all, since the entire procedure is outlined on the package. It is enough to pour the required amount of water at room temperature into the prepared container (a clean plastic bucket is suitable for this), and then, stirring constantly, pour the contents of the package.
If an indicator glue is selected, it should turn pink. This composition is convenient in that non-glued areas will immediately appear on the wall, which will not be noticeable when applying conventional transparent solutions. This quality of the adhesive will help to avoid air pockets under the glued canvas, which can form in the remaining dry places on the wall, which will significantly reduce the adhesion of the wallpaper to the surfaces. After drying, the indicating shade of the glue disappears.
Wallpaper preparation
Vinyl wallpaper can have a clear pattern that requires selection, or one that does not require adjustment. When purchasing wallpaper with a selected pattern, it should be borne in mind that their consumption is much higher, since a lot of waste remains from them. Wallpapers that do not require adjustment are practically waste-free and much easier to work with, but on the wall they look more modest than canvases with rich patterns or even plot compositions. Therefore, more often than not, consumers choose the last finish option.
Wallpaper selection
So, there are several ways to adjust the pattern.
In the first case, it is marked in height, the first strip of wallpaper is cut off and pasted, and a roll is already applied to it, if necessary, shifted until the pattern is aligned. In the same way, the rest of the wallpaper is adjusted. With such a selection, one should be prepared for the fact that the waste from each roll will be 1000 ÷ 1500 mm, which leads to extra costs, since, for example, instead of the required six rolls, you will have to buy seven.
The second method is that the set step of the drawing elements (rapport) is taken into account and the required shift value between them is selected when combined. Usually these values - rapport and the required amount of shift, are indicated in the pictograms on the packaging label of the roll. To fit, it is necessary to open two rolls at once and, by shifting the sheets, determine the most profitable and economical option for matching the ornament.
The third method of selecting a pattern is somewhat different from the first two. To save money, you can try to cut, choosing the combination of ornaments, simultaneously from two rolls or even three rolls at once. For example, odd canvases are cut from the first roll: 1, 3, 5, and even ones: 2.4, 6 from the second. Often, using this selection method, it is fashionable to reduce wallpaper waste from each roll to 200 ÷ 300 mm.
For more information about what rapport is, and how to combine for various types of drawings, see the article on calculating the number of wallpapers, the link to which is given above.
Cutting of canvases
When cutting the roll, not only the height of the pasted area and the displacement of the pattern are taken into account, but also a reserve of the length of the web is created for its finishing trimming. Usually the value of such a margin is 50 ÷ 80 mm, with its uniform distribution when gluing from above and below.
In the intended place, the canvas is bent, the fold is smoothed and the canvas is cut off with scissors, a clerical knife or a sharp spatula. You can not bend the sheet, but draw on it an even dividing line perpendicular to the edges, controlling it with a construction square.
To begin with, it is enough to cut canvases from two ÷ three rolls, and after gluing them, it will be possible to proceed to cutting the next batch, otherwise it will be easy to get confused. After cutting the canvas on it, it is recommended to immediately mark with a pencil its serial number on the wall and the direction of the sticker - it is more convenient to control the correctness of the operations during gluing.
Carrying out the wallpapering process
After everything is ready for work, you can proceed to the main work - sticking wallpaper on the walls.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to apply the adhesive on the sheet, on the wall or on both surfaces - as required by the technology. Experienced maters unanimously declare that the best results are achieved by mutually applying glue to both the canvas and the wall surface, regardless of the manufacturer's recommendations. The canvas is laid out on a table or on the floor, previously covered with oilcloth, and glue is applied to it - this process can be done with a roller, brush or sponge. In this case, it is very important to grease the edges of the sheet well. |
 | The top and bottom edges of the smeared canvas are folded to its middle (the decorative side of the sheet remains outside), and the canvas is carefully removed to the side for impregnation. After that, the second sheet is immediately covered with glue and also folded. Then, if it is indicated on the wallpaper roll that glue is required to be applied to the wall in order to stick them, then this action is then performed. It is best to coat the wall with a long-handled roller - this tool will greatly speed up and facilitate the process. First, the adhesive solution must be applied to the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall intended for the two already smeared canvases. |
 | Next, you can go directly to the wallpaper sticker on the wall. To do this, the first smeared sheet is taken, its upper side, folded to the middle, is straightened, and then with an overlap of about 25–30 mm relative to the line broken off in the upper part of the wall or the glued cornice, it is applied to the wall surface. The canvas is fixed on top, and then aligned along the broken vertical line along which it will join with the second missed sheet. |
 | After removing the canvas along the line from the top to about half the height, they begin to press it against the wall in the middle, and then from it, using a plastic spatula, the sheet is straightened using the “herringbone” method - from the center to the edges, in which excess glue is removed from under it and air. When they reach the middle, they carefully bend the lower tucked part of the canvas - it should already perfectly match the vertical line. In the same way, they straighten and remove excess glue to the very bottom. Glue squeezed out along the edges is immediately removed with a clean rag or a slightly damp foam sponge. |
 | A more difficult task is to glue and fit butt to the first, second sheet. First of all, it is equalized exactly along the junction line, while simultaneously combining the pattern of the canvases. |
 | After the excess glue and air are expelled from under the second sheet, the joint is rolled with a special rubber roller - this process must be carried out while the wallpaper is still wet. The special conical or barrel shape of the roller contributes to the optimal attraction of the edges of the wallpaper at the junction - the border becomes almost invisible. |
 | In parallel with gluing the canvases (each separately or, for example, every two or three sheets), the upper and lower edges are trimmed, along the line of the ceiling cornice and along the line of the plinth (or along an arbitrary straight line, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth). |
 | It is better to cut the cut with a sharp clerical knife, after pressing the bottom or top of the canvas with a spatula to the plinth or cornice, depending on where the cut is made. When making a cut with a spatula, it will turn out to be even and neat. At the same time, you should not regret replacement blades- it is best to break off the blade section after each blade, so that the cut is guaranteed to be even, and the wallpaper does not jam under the “accordion” under a dull knife. The cost of the blades is not so high as to unnecessarily save on this. After trimming, the edges are carefully smoothed, if necessary, lightly greased from the inside with glue. |
 | When decorating walls with wallpaper, beginners quite often have ambiguities about how to stick them neatly on inner and outer corners, as well as in other problem areas. |
 | As we remember, the first sheet entered the inner corner by 20 ÷ 30 mm The second sheet is glued with an overlap of 10 ÷ 20 mm. Sheets in the place of overlap are pressed against the wall, excess glue is removed. If thin paper wallpapers are glued, this can be limited, but with vinyl it will not work like that. |
 | If vinyl wallpapers are glued, then, firstly, the overlap will look ugly, and secondly, the canvases will not stick together securely. Therefore, in order to achieve an even joint, while the wallpaper is not yet dry, an even vertical line is drawn in the middle of the overlap from the ceiling to the floor, and then a through cut is made along it with a sharp knife. After that, the outer cut edge is removed, and then, from under the canvas, the edge cut off from the adjacent sheet is pulled out. The next step is to press the joint, and then roll it with a rubber roller. |
 | Another case - in the process of pasting the walls reached the opposite corner, and it is located in such a way that, it would seem, the next canvas will have to be bent along the corner. This is never done - the canvas must be divided into two parts along a vertical line. The first strip, which is a continuation of the glued wall, should be equal in width to the distance from the last glued canvas to the corner plus 10 mm. On the wall adjacent to the corner, a vertical line is marked along the plumb line at a distance equal to the width of the second strip. The cut off parts are alternately glued onto the wall, with the first aligned along the last glued canvas, and the second - already along the applied vertical line, as it will set the direction for further pasting on this wall. Then the same through cutting is carried out along the overlap, the removal of scraps and the rolling of the resulting joint with a roller. |
 | In order not to stray from the general arrangement of the drawings on the wall in this problematic place, a little trick is used. After the canvas is marked with a vertical line for cutting in half, a horizontal strip of masking tape is glued in the upper part. This will become a kind of marker - when overlapping the canvases, the strip will need to be combined - and the general arrangement of the drawings on the walls will be perfectly maintained. And small distortions in the corner, due to overlap, will be almost invisible. After gluing and aligning the cut web, the tape strip is carefully removed. |
 | External corners are also considered problematic, so a few words should also be said about them. The diagram shows how the outer corner should be pasted over. The canvas, pasted on the left wall from the corner, is wrapped on the right wall by 20 ÷ 25 mm. |
 | On top of it, with an overlap of about 10 ÷ 15 mm, a solid canvas is glued, already on the right wall. Then, just as in the process with an internal corner, an even cut is made in the middle of the overlap, the cut edges of the sheets are removed, joined and rolled. |
 | Some difficulty is sometimes caused by gluing walls with window and door openings located in them. However, it should be noted that this moment of work cannot be called especially pipe if the procedure is followed. Firstly, it must be taken into account that it is not necessary to cut the canvas in advance, which will be located near the door. Secondly, it takes into account that part of this sheet will remain above the door. Therefore, the canvas begins to be fixed on the surface in the same way as the rest of the sheets of material, but it is pressed and smoothed only on the whole part of the wall. |
 | When the sheet is glued to the upper and side parts of the wall from the door, you can start cutting it and removing the excess fragment. The canvas is cut out so that the edges of the remaining part of it are on the frame of the doorway, by about 20 ÷ 25 mm. |
 | The next step at the corner of the door frame, the wallpaper on it is cut diagonally by 12 ÷ 15 mm. |
 | Then, the edges of the canvas above the doorway and located along its vertical edge are additionally smeared with glue and pressed against the wall and against the end sides of the protruding frame fixed to the door frame. Further, in the same way, the second corner of the doorway is pasted over, and only after that a wallpaper fragment is selected according to the drawing, which will fill the remaining area between them, above the door. |
 | If a window or door is recessed into the wall and it is planned to wallpaper their slopes, then the canvas should be on the wall above the opening to the width of the opening slopes with a small margin of 10 ÷ 20 mm. The wallpaper sheet is fixed with glue on the top and side of the opening of the wall. Then, carefully, with the help of a clerical knife, cuts are made along the upper and lower edges of the opening, while the sheet is not cut off from the side, since it will need to be bent and glued to the slope. |
 | Further, a fragment of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern and size, and then glued to the upper slope of the window or door opening with a bend on the upper part of the wall by 12 ÷ 15 mm, and from above it is overlapped with wallpaper glued over the window opening. Then it will be possible to carry out through cuts and ensure high-quality adjacency of the canvases along the resulting joints. |
 | To make the design look neat, all work must be carried out quickly so that the glue on the canvas does not have time to dry. Therefore, it is best to make all measurements in advance and prepare pieces of wallpaper of the right size. The last step is to cover all the remaining unglued areas above and below the windows with wallpaper fragments. |
 | Heating radiators often cause problems. It's okay - here you need to apply prudence, ingenuity and increased accuracy. |
 | Finally, the moment with sockets and switches remained unclear. There are no particular difficulties with this, but compliance with safety rules will be required. Before sticking the canvas, which will have a socket or switch, be sure to turn off the electricity supply to the room. The socket is removed, then the web is glued in the usual way. Further, it is easy to find the outlet socket to make a cross-shaped cutout that does not go beyond the boundaries of the socket. When the wallpaper dries, it will be possible to remove the resulting "wings", and carefully install the outlet in place. After that, you can reconnect the room to the mains. |
After all these operations, it is necessary to create and maintain the optimal mode for drying the wallpaper. Drafts are completely excluded, with domestic, especially with children, “educational work” is carried out so that no one enters a closed room until it is fully prepared. It is strictly forbidden to use heaters to artificially accelerate the drying of the glue - the effect of this is guaranteed to be catastrophic!
Read helpful tips by choice, in our new article.
We hope that this publication will help the site visitor to understand the nuances of vinyl wallpaper stickers. Having understood the principle of work, having calculated the required amount of materials, you can go to hardware store to buy everything you need. Then, following the instructions and recommendations, boldly, but with increased accuracy, proceed to the transformation of your apartment or house.
In conclusion, for greater clarity - a video with an example of wall decoration with vinyl wallpaper:
Video: master class on pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper
Properly sticking vinyl wallpaper is not difficult, and with some experience, almost anyone can do it. The main thing is to follow certain rules, take into account the characteristics of vinyl and follow the gluing technology.
Vinyl wallpaper differs from other types of wallpaper in that it consists of several layers.: non-woven material is used as the basis (in less expensive versions it is replaced by paper), and the surface of such wallpaper is covered with polyvinyl chloride. It is this coating that gives the wallpaper a special strength and allows you to wash the wallpaper with water.
At the same time, the top layer can be not just plain: today you can see a large number of different models of vinyl wallpaper with drawings and even with embossed embossing.
Are you ready for a demolition renovation?
First of all, you need to talk about the benefits of vinyl wallpaper. Such material is more expensive than paper and acrylic wallpapers, but such an investment is worth it:
- Vinyl wallpapers are highly durable: they can last for many years, during which they will not lose their color and quality;
- The drawing on such wallpaper is not washed out and fades very hard;
- Vinyl wallpaper easily tolerate moderate mechanical damage: for example, bringing it into a room new furniture, you can not worry that if you accidentally hit the wall, vinyl wallpaper may tear or leave dents and scratches on them.
When remodeling a home, there is always one hidden but significant factor to keep in mind: the age of the home.
The fact is that every building undergoes a process of shrinkage during its “life”. Even if the foundation is reliable, and the soil under the house is quite dense, the building from the moment of construction begins to sag under its own weight. This leads to a slight deformation of the walls and ceilings.
So if you move into a new house and immediately begin to make repairs - choose vinyl wallpaper. They are made of a material that, due to its elasticity and strength, can withstand shrinkage at home, while on paper wallpaper in new buildings, after a few years, gaps and cracks appear.
Before the complete set is not enough ... a cup of coffee
Together you can cope with sticking quickly and easily Before sticking vinyl wallpaper, you must prepare in advance all the tools that will be needed in the process.
In your "arsenal" must be:
- Brush for applying glue to wallpaper;
- Spatula for smoothing the canvas;
- Small clean roller (used for rolling seams);
- Clean rags;
- As well as scissors, a ruler and tape measure, a pencil, a wallpaper knife and a brush for applying glue to hard-to-reach areas.
Manufacturers of some types of wallpaper indicate that it is enough to apply glue only to the roll itself. In the case of vinyl wallpaper, the adhesive must also be applied to the wall.
It will not be superfluous to warn that glue must be special, for vinyl wallpaper.
Other adhesives will not be able to provide good quality gluing. But even when using special glue, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for its preparation: improperly diluted glue will also cause the wallpaper to soon begin to lag behind the walls.
Wall preparation is reduced to the following steps: the wall must be cleaned of the old coating, in the presence of cracks and irregularities, the wall must be leveled and puttied.
A mandatory requirement for the place of work - there should be no drafts in the room, and the walls should be dry.
Do not open windows, fearing for the effect of harmful glue on the body: they have not been added to wallpaper glue for a long time harmful substances, and the glue itself has absolutely no pungent odor.
High-quality wallpapers that are easy to stick - non-woven. Learn, save time.
Washable wallpaper is available material which is not only beautiful but also practical. are ideal for the kitchen.
Create harmony in the interior of the kitchen by learning.
We are not stokers, we are not carpenters ...
Just before you start smearing the wall with glue, you need to put a strictly vertical line on it - this will be your guideline, which will not allow you to stick the wallpaper crookedly.
You can draw such a line using the building level, and if it is not at hand, you can use the old grandfather way - using a plumb line.
It is necessary to take an ordinary thread, tie a heavy weight to its end (a long nail is quite suitable), and, having applied such a plumb line to the top point of the wall, release the thread so that the weight is near the floor, but does not touch it.
When the plumb line stops swinging, mark with a pencil several points of contact between the plumb line and the wall.
By combining all these risks into one line, you will get the very vertical that you have to focus on. Of course use building level easier, and the readings will be more accurate, but wallpapering just refers to such work in which such small errors are not critical.
Thereafter the adhesive is applied evenly on the wall, then the strip is glued. There is no need to apply glue to the wallpaper itself. Such wallpapers are very dense, and therefore if you overlap them, the seams will be noticeable.
In order to carefully glue vinyl wallpaper into the joint, it is best to work together, and in the absence of skills, even three of us. 
Having pressed a strip of wallpaper against the wall, it is necessary to iron it with a cloth, rubber roller or plastic spatula from top to bottom and to the sides - “herringbone”.
This will expel excess air from under the strip, and the wallpaper will lie flat and tight, without bubbles.
The adhesive protruding along the edges as a result of smoothing is removed with another rag.
Such excess glue must be removed as soon as possible before it dries.
After that, the seams between the strips are rolled with a clean roller, and if it is noticeable that in some places the strip does not fit well in the wall, add a little glue under the wallpaper with a brush.
Interesting features or small pitfalls
Nothing complicated and fundamentally new for those who have already had to do this. But for a person who takes up wallpapering for the first time and knows about it only in theory, advice and analysis of "pitfalls" from specialists will definitely come in handy. 
The most important rule that must not be broken is when sticking, you do not need to stretch the strip of wallpaper.
It should not be pulled at all, and even if the strip accidentally lies unevenly, do not pull it in the right direction.
Just tear it off before the glue dries and stick it on properly.
Like any other wallpaper, vinyl wallpaper begins to stick from the window into the interior of the room. And when you get to the corner - pay special attention to the last strip.
You should not wrap it on another wall, citing the fact that "it's a pity to cut off and throw away a third of the length of the material." You can't do without production costs.
Press the strip tightly into the corner and carefully cut off the remainder so that no more than one or two centimeters of the strip go onto the other wall. On these centimeters it is already possible to glue the overlapping strip, which is glued after the corner on the other wall.
When it comes to heating batteries, the opinions of professionals differ: someone advises to tinker and wallpaper the space behind the battery as much as possible (even from scraps of wallpaper that always remain in the process of work), someone advises not to waste time on this, and some in general, they prefer to enclose the battery with fashionable MDF boxes in recent years.
The choice is yours, but the fastest and most convenient option is to simply paint the space behind the battery with a brush to match the color of the wallpaper.
Properly sticking wallpaper is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to follow the advice of professionals described in the article. Learn all the secrets of high-quality vinyl wallpaper gluing with the help of a useful video.
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