Moving sockets and switches is a relatively easy job. However, it requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. Otherwise, the operation of the electrical network will be unsafe. Knowing all the nuances of this work, you can do it yourself. This will help to understand the advice of experienced electricians.
Is it worth contacting a professional?
Today, many organizations offer their services for electrical work. Professionals are ready to perform installation of varying complexity. The quality of such actions is often quite high. Each such company provides a guarantee for the installation of electrical equipment.
However, every homeowner knows that the services of a master can be quite expensive. So, the transfer of sockets and switches in Omsk can cost from 1200 rubles. In Moscow, the price for such a fairly simple procedure can reach 2000 rubles. for one entry point. It is for this reason that many owners of private real estate decide to carry out such a procedure with their own hands.
In this case, it is extremely important to comply with all safety requirements and PUE. Otherwise, an unprofessional master risks serious injury. At the same time, the operation electrical system will be unsafe. Faulty sockets and switches can cause fire, damage property and pose a threat to human life and health.
Why move outlets?
Some homeowners do not understand why relocate outlets and switches. After all, you can buy an extension cord or a tee. In this case, you can increase the number of power points. However, not all so simple.
The fact is that in the houses of the old type a certain number of sockets and switches were provided. They were designed for a certain load (maximum 3.5 kVA, and more often no more than 2 kVA). Over time, the number of household appliances in the home has increased. The outlets provided were not enough.
However, by including an extension cord or tee in the network, the owners can increase the load on the outlet. In this case, the extension cord begins to melt or spark. This can lead to fire, equipment malfunction and other troubles. Therefore, before including such elements in the network, it is necessary to calculate the total load on the network. The best way out is to transfer or add additional sockets according to the technology established by the PUE.
Varieties of transfer
The correct transfer of sockets and switches with your own hands can only be carried out when the master is familiarized with the norms and requirements of the rules for installing electrical equipment. Sockets and switches can be raised or lowered horizontally or moved vertically. It is much more difficult to transfer both horizontally and vertically at the same time.
Before carrying out such a procedure, everything must be carefully considered. Not always a new socket or switch becomes convenient during operation. It is necessary to take into account what objects are nearby, who will use such points of the electrical system.
Switches are most often transferred to a level of 120-190 cm from the floor. Sockets, on the contrary, today it is customary to lower them lower. They can be located at a distance of 20-30 cm from the floor. However, if there are small children in the house, proper protection for such electrical objects must be provided. These may be plugs that the child cannot independently get out of the socket.
Hidden and open installation
Transferring sockets and switches with your own hands can be done in one of two ways. The first is called the open mounting method. In this case, the wires run along the surface of the wall. Sockets and switches also have a special configuration. These are overhead structures that differ in sufficiently large dimensions.
The hidden installation method involves creating a recess inside the wall. Wires are laid along the strobe. Next, they are covered with putty. This method of transferring sockets is aesthetically pleasing. Sockets and switches are also recessed into recesses that are drilled into the base using special equipment. Such products look more compact.
It should be noted that each of these methods has its advantages and disadvantages. easier to install. but appearance it leaves much to be desired. Hidden wiring does not spoil the look of the interior. However, this option is only possible if overhaul. It is more difficult and costly.
Safety
There is a specific instruction for transferring sockets and switches. First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the safety regulations. Work must be carried out with a de-energized power supply line. This requirement cannot be neglected.
Special tools and equipment should also be used. Clothing must be appropriate. Rubberized footwear is important element when working with electricity.
When performing the work presented, it is forbidden to twist the wires and wrap them with electrical tape. Today there is big choice special connectors that improve the quality of connections. It should be noted that according to the rules, access to contact points cannot be closed. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to leave such compounds in the thickness of the plaster, to cover them with asbestos.
materials
The correct transfer of sockets and switches in an apartment or house requires the selection of suitable materials. First of all, you should pay attention to the wire. It must be copper. Aluminum varieties must not be used for internal installation sockets and switches.
The cross section of the wire must correspond to the maximum rated load on the line. In this case, you need to calculate what powerful equipment the owners can connect to an outlet or switch. Based on the calculations obtained, you need to purchase the appropriate wire. The best wire for this purpose is VVG type.
Connections are made using special connectors. When choosing them, you should also pay attention to the total network load. You can also use the soldering method. In this case, they twist. Then they are soldered with tin solder. Acid fluxes should not be used in this case. It is best to use rosin. If the old line is made of it cannot be connected directly to the copper core. There are special connectors for this.
Loop usage
Some masters perform the transfer of sockets and switches in an apartment or house by creating an additional loop. In this case, a new wire will go from the old outlet to the new outlet. This is a rather unsafe method, which is characterized by a large number of disadvantages.
The wires that were previously connected to the old outlet or switch remain in the current circuit. They will also carry electricity. However, another power point will depart from one outlet. In this case, the old wire will be connected to the new one. This principle resembles the use of the same extension cord.
It should be noted that the presented method will save on the amount of materials. Wires will be required much less. However, this saving significantly reduces the quality of installation and the functionality of the socket or switch. It will not be possible to connect powerful equipment to it. Otherwise, line congestion may occur. This is a temporary scheme, which must be redone later. It should only be used as a last resort.
Disadvantages of using a loop
The correct transfer of sockets and switches in the house does not accept the use of a loop. This method has a lot of disadvantages. Therefore, deciding on such an action, you should learn about several of its weaknesses.
The application of the presented approach is not recommended by the PUE. This is a temporary way to connect a power point. In this case, the wire cannot be carried out in the thickness of the wall. It is allowed to install the socket open way. Otherwise, a number of difficulties arise.
It should be noted that transferring the outlet using a cable hidden in the wall horizontally or in any other direction (except vertical) is unsafe. Over time, you can forget that the wiring runs on this section of the wall. Driving a nail into a wall can result in an electric shock.
Also, the presented method is not sustainable. Needs to be refurbished soon. Do not use this outlet or switch for high power equipment.
Wire extension
Transferring sockets and switches in the house can be done by extending the wire. This method is not ideal, but it is much safer than the previous approach. In this case, the old socket or switch is removed. A new wire is connected to the line.
This procedure can be performed if an element of the electrical system needs to be lowered or raised vertically. In this case, the master must completely de-energize the power line. Next, with the help of a perforator and a grinder, a new strobe is cut out. It has wires in it.
Also, for a socket or switch, a hole is drilled at the required distance from the floor using a crown. A spacer box is installed in it. An extended wire is laid along the line. This method will be safe if you do not load the line more than the set value. For extension, a wire with exactly the same cross section and core material as the supply lines is used. It is strictly forbidden to cover up the connection of wires with alabaster.
What to do with the old junction box?
Do-it-yourself transfer of sockets and switches must be carried out according to the established methodology. The master can make a gross mistake in this case. An inexperienced electrician can twist the wires of the old wire and the new line, and then cover the old junction box and duct with plaster mixture. In this case, the junction will be inaccessible for viewing.
If the junction of the wires is in a conspicuous place, you need to do otherwise. First, the old junction box must be dismantled. This is especially important for products made of metal. A plastic spacer box is installed in its place. Further, the junction of the wires is left in this box. A circle is cut out of a drywall sheet. They close the box. Attach the cover with glue. It is impossible to cover the surface with putty. The cover can be painted in the color of the walls or pasted over with appropriate wallpaper.
The right way to carry
The most correct transfer of sockets and switches can only be done by drawing a new line from. To do this, turn off the electricity supply. Next, the old wire is disconnected on both sides. The junction box is completely dismantled. The surface is cleared of debris. With the help of putty, the installation site of the old outlet is smeared. The wire remains immured in the thickness of the wall.
Creating a new line
The transfer of sockets and switches must be carried out from the switchboard. In this case, it will be possible to move the switch or socket to any suitable place in the room. In this case, it will be possible to add the number of outlets. This method will cost more money. However, the electrician will be as safe as possible.
You will need to create a new strobe. This procedure must be done with a grinder and a perforator. The width of the recess depends on the number of wires that pass through it. Next, a cable is laid in the prepared strobe and is attached to the surface with the help of dowel-clamps. The system is covered with putty.
Having considered how sockets and switches are transferred, you can do the work yourself.
Owners of kitchens often face problems connecting household appliances. Either the refrigerator cannot be connected in any way without an extension cord, or there is nowhere to put the electric kettle. This is due to the fact that the sockets in the old apartments "once or twice and counted", and they are installed where and how horrible - who could have predicted such a scale of scientific and technological progress. Let's figure out how to make sockets in the kitchen, taking into account the use of specific equipment, the arrangement of the proposed furniture, as well as a number of other issues.
Where to begin?
The final decision on the choice of location for the installation of sockets should be made only after determining the configuration kitchen set. It is necessary to take into account all cases, shelves, drawers, type of hood, etc. All this is done in order to put the outlet in the most convenient place in terms of operation.
To begin with, think about what kind of apron you will have in the kitchen - for example, a panel or a tile? It depends on whether there will be a need to install mounting boxes.
If the furniture is made to order, you will probably have a diagram of the future headset on hand, which will greatly simplify the further design process.
In the case of using an old headset, you will need to draw up a small sketch and enter real dimensions into it.
As soon as you have a diagram on hand, you can proceed to the calculation of the required number of outlets.
Often, a separate point is designed for a hob, oven, refrigerator, microwave and hood. Optionally, additional blocks are placed under the mixer, Electric kettle, blender, etc.
Advice! It is perfectly acceptable to use, which can be found on the network. The only thing that is required is to make minor adjustments regarding binding to stationary electrical devices.
Hob and oven
Even at the stage of rough work, the wiring diagram must be correctly drawn up, and it takes into account all the nuances of consumer capacities.
Usually connection hob and oven runs separately. It is connected with technical specifications each device. A wire with a cross section of 6 squares is usually brought under the hob. It is designed for loads up to 6–7 kW, and often a socket or mounting box is not installed.
The oven may well get by with a stationary 16A household outlet. It is able to withstand up to 3.5 kW of load and is powered by a 2.5 square wire.
If the oven is installed under the panel, the sockets are made at a height of 150–180 mm from the floor surface, next to each other. This is explained by the fact that at this level is usually located drawer"under the pans" and other utensils, removing which, you can provide access to the network and cables.
Often, socket blocks are placed behind an adjacent housing, 150–250 mm from it. The recommended height of their placement: within 200–800 mm from the floor.
When it is planned to build an oven into a column, it is necessary to design an outlet corresponding to it at chest level. It is allowed to install the socket block 150–250 mm above or below the oven. Then the power supply of the plate can be placed already at a height of 650–800 mm due to the absence of the need to maintain the joints.
When it comes to stand-alone electric stove, then it is desirable to place the socket on the left or right side, behind the adjacent housing. The height of its location can vary from 150 to 800 mm.
Refrigerator
Taking into account the insignificant length of the cord for the built-in refrigerator and the recommendations of the manufacturers, it is obvious that the socket should be somewhere nearby. Extension cords and temporary carriers are not allowed.
For obvious reasons, it is desirable to choose the location of the power supply on the side of the home appliance. Ideally, it should be behind the adjacent cabinet, at a height of 150–800 mm from the floor and no more than 250 mm from the refrigerator itself.
Connecting a free-standing refrigerator is possible behind its rear wall. Ideally, there should be an indent of no more than 100 mm from the edge of the outlet to ensure free access to it.
Attention! Some models of refrigeration devices are manufactured with separate power supply to the main compartment and freezer. In this case, another socket should be added. Usually, a wire of 2.5 squares is laid under it, accessories for 16A, designed for equipment up to 3.5 kW of power.
Washing machine and dishwasher
Usually, the "dishwasher" is placed near the kitchen sink - accordingly, the outlet for this technique should be made in one of the adjacent lower cabinets.
The output of electricity is carried out at a height of 150–500 mm from the floor and a distance of 150–200 mm from the adjacent kitchen building.
The mistake is the socket device immediately behind the dishwasher. This is fraught with the fact that the built-in appliances in the future cannot be accommodated in depth in the niche intended for it.
Important! The installation of the socket must be carried out at least 500 mm from the water supply.
Microwave
It is normal to place the microwave oven at the level of the user's eyes. Regarding the built-in device, it is better to carry out the corresponding socket below the cabinet where the microwave will be installed, at a height of 150–800 mm from the floor.
If you plan to install a stationary stove on a countertop, there should be a 16A socket, up to 3.5 kW, with a 2.5 square wire, respectively.
Hood
Based on the type and model of the hood that is planned to be used, a separate electrical outlet is selected or a mounting box is installed for fittings.
Most devices are covered by kitchen cabinets, so the socket can be placed inside them, on the left or right side of the ventilation duct. Usually this is a height of about 1700-1900 mm from the floor. It is allowed to install a socket above the cabinets - 2400–2600 mm.
Open hoods are often connected directly, so the output of power wires can be done even behind the ventilation pipe. It should be noted that manufacturers of household appliances stipulate this point in the corresponding instructions.
Regardless of the hood chosen, for its operation it is enough to connect a wire of 2.5 squares and, if necessary, install ordinary socket at 16A, 3.5 kW.
Working surface
How to properly remove power, and where is it better to do it under small household appliances? Finding an answer to this question is a serious test for many.
Here it is necessary to take into account the possibility of simultaneously connecting the necessary kitchen appliances. For example, it is quite possible that you need to turn on the kettle, toaster, coffee machine and mixer in the same zone, so it is advisable to remove the block from 4 sockets in the appropriate place.
Naturally, it is impossible to foresee everything, therefore it is recommended to additionally provide for a reserve.
As practice shows, there are no many outlets. It is considered normal to place blocks at 3-4 points with an interval of 1000-1200 mm throughout the entire length of the table top of the working area.
Please note that, for safety reasons, it is forbidden to install sockets closer than 500 mm from the gas pipe riser and wet areas, including the sink mixer.
Relative to the tabletop, electrical fittings should be placed at a height of at least 100–150 mm, which is 900–950 mm from the floor level. The final dimensions are determined taking into account the selected tile - so that the blocks fall on its center. If the electrical installation has begun, but there are no tiles, it is enough just to separate the wires with a margin, and install the socket boxes closer to the beginning of the tiling work.
How to install with your own hands?
Deal with correct gasket wires and installation of mounting boxes is easy. The main operations are carried out before fine finish premises.
- Having decided on consumers and places for installing sockets, they move on to marking them on the walls.
- A center is outlined, after which a hole 40–60 mm deep is made with a 63 mm crown for the “socket box”. If there is no special tool, you can get by with a chisel and a hammer. Many professional electricians prefer to work as a grinder and puncher.
- Then you can proceed to fixing the mounting box with the wire passed into it. Usually fixation is carried out using building gypsum or plaster mixture. It is permissible to use special glue.
- After "cementing" all voids and cracks around the perimeter of the box are sealed with plaster.
The length of the protruding wire must be at least 150 mm so that, when connected, it is possible to install the socket or switch without problems.
How to move an outlet?
Sometimes, during the repair process, it is necessary to make changes to the project for arranging furniture, household appliances and, as a result, adjust the placement of sockets. It is good if there is an opportunity to hire people who will do everything quickly and without your participation. And if not?
In practice, the transfer of sockets is not so laborious and a very real process that you can do yourself. The most difficult thing to do is to make a recess for installing a new mounting box.
If we are talking about a brick or plasterboard wall - there will be no problems with this. In the first case, you can get by with a chisel, drill and hammer, in the second - with a crown or knife.
The most difficult thing is to transfer sockets in apartments or houses with reinforced concrete walls. In such situations, a special tool may be required. After the “socket box” is in place, it is enough to make a recess in the plaster (if any) to the thickness of the wire, or simply attach it to the wall surface with ties or clamps.
Power must be "pulled" from a nearby outlet. It is worth noting that the old "point" does not have to be conserved. It is allowed to use a daisy chain connection, which is realistic using the simplest modern sockets.
If the installation of fittings is not planned, you will need to use classic "terminals", the choice of which must be made taking into account the size of the wire cross section. Thus, it is possible to “multiply” and make the required number of food points, transfer them to the required place.
Transfer without chasing
The corresponding task can be posed in an already finished repair. Naturally, in order to transfer one outlet and install it in the right place, there is absolutely no reason to “strobe” the walls, re-plaster them and perform a fine finish.
Many homeowners, not understanding how to add a new outlet after repair, are ready to give fabulous money in order to realize their idea. In fact, the problem is not as terrible as it might seem at first glance.
If the new “point” is out of sight, then laying an additional wire from another “invisible” socket (for example, behind the kitchen set cases), with a connection with “terminals” or crimp sleeves, is quite suitable.
Instead of a built-in outlet, you can purchase a special remote insulated analogue. The method is much better, more reliable and safer than using stationary extension cords.
In visible places, it is somewhat more difficult to carry out an additional or move an existing outlet. The specifics of wire installation are similar to those described above. The only difference is that you will need to additionally install a decorative cable channel.
Fortunately for many, today such products are on sale in different colors so that it is relatively easy to choose a design for an existing interior. Fixing the cable channel to the wall is carried out using dowels and screws. Additionally, you will need a puncher and a 6 mm drill.
Installation of electrical accessories
Once all electrical installations and Finishing work, you can proceed with the installation of electrical fittings. Note that, subject to a certain sequence and safety precautions, almost any person can cope with the task.
Important! All operations related to stripping wires, connecting the outlet, its installation must be performed only after the network is de-energized.
A brief sequence of steps for installing fittings:
- The insulation is removed from the end of the wire cores at a distance of 10–15 mm from the edge (in the case of a multi-wire cable, all the cores must be twisted together and crimped with a sleeve).
- The ends of the wires (usually three of them, including the phase wire, neutral wire and ground wire) are inserted into the corresponding screw or spring terminals.
- The quality of the contact is checked.
- Excess wires are placed inside the "socket box".
- The socket is tightly pressed against the wall and fixed to the mounting box by means of spacer elements with screw tightening.
- A decorative strip is installed and fixed with a screw.
In the case of blocks for 2, 3, 4 or more outlets, the sequence is similar, with the exception that the metal mounting frames must be fitted end-to-end and flush. Ideally, if you can find the appropriate tool for stripping wires - a stripper that allows you to safely and efficiently strip the insulation. Multi-wire cables are crimped using sleeves and crimping pliers.
Attention! Before starting electrical work, make sure that there is no voltage on the phase wire. This can be done with a simple indicator screwdriver.
You should not save on sockets - it is always necessary to purchase options with grounding (provided that the electrical wiring in the apartment provides for this). At least in some dangerous situations, it can save someone's life.
After installing the outlet, it is necessary to check with a tester not only the presence of a phase, but also zero with grounding. This is done elementarily, by alternately checking the pairs “phase + zero” and “phase + earth” by the device. And in one, and in the second case, there should be a voltage in the range of 220–240 volts. If this is not the case, you need to find and fix the problem.
What if the outlets don't work?
Electricity, as you know, is the science of contacts. If one of the outlets does not work, it is likely that the connection is loose somewhere or there is no connection at all.
- The first thing to start with is to make sure that the introductory and group (if any) machine on the shield is turned on. Then it is necessary to check the indicator for the presence of a phase, then zero. It is clear that one cannot do without the simplest tool of an electrician.
Important! Without the relevant experience and knowledge, it is better to entrust this work to a qualified specialist.
- After checking and making sure that there is no problem at this stage, it is necessary to “ring out” a specific wire from the shield to the junction box. A similar procedure is done from the box to the "socket".
- If everything is in order here, then the only thing that remains is a weak contact in the outlet itself. It is necessary to tighten the corresponding clamps or try harder to push the core into the self-clamping terminal.
If the outlet has stopped working, you need to figure out the background - which consumers were turned on, whether the machine worked, how long ago this situation appeared, etc.
It can be much more difficult to repair an outlet in an old house, Khrushchev. The fact is that earlier the wiring was designed according to Soviet GOSTs. The schemes are standard, however, for such a long time from the start of construction, electrical installation work to connect or eliminate any malfunctions could be carried out different specialists, including from the housing office, so it is sometimes very difficult to sort out the numerous twists.
In addition, aluminum wires, which were widely used at that time, also added problems. Sometimes it's easier to "throw" the wire "over" than to look for it in the mounting boxes. Ideally, it is best to completely replace the wiring.
We hope that after reading this material, you understand how sockets are designed in the kitchen, what you need to pay attention to, what nuances are possible with the placement of electrical “points”. In some cases, you have to move the outlet to another place, connect devices that previously "did not participate" in the project. In general, it is not difficult to solve all the questions that have arisen, just like installing electrical fittings after the completion of all construction, electrical installation and finishing work.
Sometimes there is a need to move an existing outlet, which for some reason interferes in its place. At the same time, there are absolutely no plans to spoil the wallpaper, ditch, hollow out a place for a new socket box.
There is a way, which I will talk about in this article. It consists in the fact that instead of a hidden (internal) installation socket, an open installation socket is placed in another place, that is, an external socket.
Moreover, any man with hands can do it on his own, in a couple of hours, thanks to my manual. Or, as it is fashionable to say now, a case;).
Attention! When performing work, you should be careful, at the connection points there is a voltage of 220V!
The outlet interferes - you need a transfer
So what do we have initially. Bedroom. The socket is at a height of about 0.9 m. There is a folding sofa near the socket. If you plug something into the outlet (and this is a TV), then when laying out the sofa, it pulls out “with meat”. Familiar?
Naturally, there is a reasonable desire to move the outlet with your own hands to another place - closer to the TV and away from the sofa. At the same time, transfer without shtroblenia, without noise and dust.
The essence of our actions is as follows:
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- we remove the socket from the old place completely;
- we connect new wires to the old wires, which will go to the new outlet;
- we lay new wires in a plastic cable channel;
- we install a new external socket and connect it in the right place;
- We close the old installation box with the connection with a lid.
Let's get started.
Cable channel installation
In such cases, I prefer to act "from the end." We decide on a new location for installing the outlet. It should be noted that the length of the cable channel is 2 meters, and it is better not to make joints if possible, but to use a solid channel.
Then we cut the cable channel along the length, apply it to the wall and mount it:
An important note about installation. The wall is a partition between the hall and the bedroom made of plaster blocks with a thickness of about 60 mm. By hardness - like a solid tree. Therefore, dowels and additional dust and noise can be easily dispensed with. We use self-tapping screws with a press washer and a sharp end about 20 mm long.
By the way, due to the small thickness of the wall, it is very problematic to make internal wiring. This is another reason to install an external outlet.
The use of a screwdriver helps a lot in work and makes it beautiful, fast and enjoyable.
In order for the cable channel to fit well against the wall, you need to take care of the holes for the screws in advance. Usually they are already in the cable channel, but if not, they need to be drilled with a 4.2 ... 4.5 mm drill.
In this case, a 10x15 mm cable channel is used. This is the minimum size, and if there are bends in the cable, or the cable is thicker, it is worth considering taking a wider cable channel.
Connecting and installing a new outdoor socket
I draw your attention to the fact that we have not yet touched the old outlet, it is waiting in the wings to go on its last journey. Accordingly, the voltage in the floor panel does not need to be turned off yet.
In this case, I use the AVVG 2x2.5 cable with aluminum conductors.
We connect and mount a new external outlet. There are types of sockets that are more convenient to first connect and then screw to the wall, this must be taken into account, and do not rush with installation.
Remember what I said about the wall? Here, too, dowels were not needed, wood screws 25 mm long fit perfectly.
Moving the outlet in the apartment to another place. Connection and installation of a new external double socket
The same view, only from the side, is shown at the beginning of the article.
Of course, if there is an opportunity and the slightest need, it is better to install a double outlet. Installing a double outlet will solve the problem of recharging gadgets that have flooded modern apartments…
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Power connection
At this stage, we measure the length and cut the cable. Be sure to leave a margin of a few centimeters on both sides. The photo above shows the stock inside the outlet, I rolled it into a kind of rings.
Important note. If aluminum wiring is used in the apartment, it is not necessary to install a new copper cable. In this case, I recommend using aluminum wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm2. So fewer connection problems.
Even the PUE, the Electrician's Bible, says on this occasion that in old houses with aluminum wiring it is allowed to use aluminum wire when repairing electrical wiring. However, it is said "before 2001".
Now we make the power connection in the old box. To do this, first turn off the phase in order to work safely.
We use Vago 2273-203 terminals with paste, which are very useful in this case. If such terminals with paste are used, copper wire VVG 2x1.5 can also be used. But it's better to use AVVG 2x2.5, as in my example.
Now we lay all the wires neatly in the external socket, cable channel and the old box.
We turn on the machine in the entrance, check.
We do beautiful
Now you need to close everything beautifully so that the client's eye rejoices.
And the joy of the client is the main thing in work! And when the client is happy, the electrician feels good too. And in the wallet
Close the outlet. You may have to trim the socket housing and the edge of the cable channel a little to make everything even and beautiful.
The cable channel has an ugly place near the old box, so we close its end with a tip, which are sold in the same place as the cable channel itself.
A plug is put on the end of the cable channel, a cover is put on the junction box.
The wall and the box at the junction are cut a little so that the wire freely enters the box, and the plug is easily put on the cable channel.
Everything, put on the cover, and you're done!
Done - the socket has been moved! On the left is a table with a TV on it.
The round lid that closes the old box is standard, and is screwed with self-tapping screws with a press washer about 45 mm long into the bottom of the box.
My opinion on the installation of sockets is also stated, in particular, here:
In the same way, you can move not only the outlet, but also the switch!
- The minimum order amount is from 1300 rubles.
- Call the master to perform work for free
- Call of the master for consultation 500 rub.
- Departure of the master in MO 500 rubles. up to 10 km
Transfer of sockets is one of the most popular applications that the masters of the company "Hydraulics" have to fulfill. Repair of premises (apartments, country house, office), redevelopment, purchase of new furniture, household appliances, office equipment - in these cases, customers need to replace old sockets, as well as transfer electrical outlets to a new location. Professional services in this case will be provided to you quickly and inexpensively by the electricians of the Hydraulics company.
Relocation of outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, living room
Muscovites often apply to relocate outlets in the kitchen, hallway, and bathroom. As a rule, in the houses of the old buildings, a certain number of sockets and switches, automatic machines per apartment were provided. In the current state of affairs, when almost every apartment has powerful microwaves, automatic washing machines, food processors, dishwashers, spotlights, old wiring, as well as the location of sockets, does not meet both safety standards and basic convenience.
In houses, the owners get out of the situation by using tees and extension cords, the quality of which is often very low. As a result, sparking, melted sockets, electrical overloads, which can lead to very serious consequences. But you can fix the situation very easily - just make an application to the electricians of our company, and they will supply you with the required number of sockets, replace or transfer the old ones, and they will do everything in full accordance with modern requirements and standards.
The transfer of the block of sockets and switches in the kitchen may be required when installing the hood, installing the hob, dishwasher. In the bathroom, put an outlet for washing machine, separately for the jacuzzi. In the office or living room, they mount a block for a computer, modem, printer, other office equipment, make special sockets for table lamps or sconces. You can invite a master to perform complex work in an apartment or office, or you can make a request for troubleshooting and moving only one outlet. In any case, the order will be completed quickly and professionally!
Transferring an outlet for an electric stove, washing machine, other household appliances
In kitchens, it is often necessary to move the socket for the electric stove. The installation technology is not complicated, but it requires jewelry work from the master and certain skills. So, it is necessary to mount the junction box, run the cable to the location of the new outlet, while correctly connecting the old and new wires, install a new outlet. It is important to accurately calculate the brand and cross section of the wires, mark the new connection, make strobes if necessary and lay the corrugation with the cable.
Muscovites often place orders to relocate sockets for washing machines and other electrical appliances (hairdryer, jacuzzi) in bathrooms. In this case, only a specialist can competently carry out the installation of electric points, RCD, automatic switch. Our masters will help you choose the best and most economical option for replacing electricians, troubleshooting or discomfort in everyday life. In some situations, it will be enough to transfer the block of sockets and switches, in others it will be necessary to replace the wiring with laying cable channels, installing an electrical panel. It is important to note that the transfer of sockets on drywall partitions is different from mounting on concrete walls that open wiring is more suitable for office space, and not for apartments - in a word, to know all the nuances and specifics. Turning to us, you can be sure of the professionalism of our masters, and therefore, in an excellent result!
Muscovites to invite a master can contact the phone numbers listed on the website of the company "Gidravlik", or place a written application on the website. Approximate prices are indicated in the price list, the exact cost is determined by the master based on the situation. A contract is drawn up for each application, and an acceptance certificate is drawn up at the end of the work. The cost of services is very affordable, while we guarantee quality, accuracy, efficiency!
Every year, more and more electrical devices appear in the average family, and it often becomes necessary to install additional outlets. Also new Appliances often simply does not reach electrical outlets due to short cords. Today we will tell you how to easily move the outlet to another place in a brick or panel house by hand, without special tools. We will also describe several methods that make the transfer very simple.
Method one - loop
We warn you, the method described below is not the safest, since it involves creating some kind of jumper from the old socket connection point to the new one. In fact, you do not move the outlet to the required distance, but create a new “electrical point” at this distance, coming from the old one.
Diagram of sockets connected by a loop
The advantage of this method, first of all, is that you have a new place to connect electrical appliances at a minimum of material costs. You also have an old outlet that you can successfully continue to use.
But, like everything in this world, such a transfer has its drawbacks:
- a daisy chain connection is considered to be extremely unreliable (it is not recommended by the rules of the PUE);
- from one point to another, the wire must be laid horizontally, and this is also very dangerous electric shock, deciding to make a hole in the wall where the wires already go);
- after connecting an additional consumer of electricity, the total load on the network will increase significantly, because the two points will be connected to each other by a single loop (when powerful devices are connected to both sockets at the same time, the wiring may simply not withstand and burn out).
And though negative aspects the connection has much more, it is worth noting the following positive point: the wire does not have to be laid in the wall, which is very convenient. You can carry out the transfer of the outlet using the cable channel on your own. You can also avoid "picking in concrete" by using an overlaid model of the product. This will allow you to move the outlet from place to place as aesthetically as possible.
Method two - lengthening the wire
The second method, which allows you to transfer the electrical outlet in the apartment without much difficulty, is the extension of the electrical line to a new strobe. Of course, this approach involves the destruction of the wall, but this method can be called more correct and reasonable than the first.
The technology is:
- , completely, or part of the apartment (if several switches are provided);
- or with another indicator, we check whether there is current on the terminals (which, of course, should not be);
- remove the socket cover and pull its body out of the strobe;
- using a perforator, we make a strobe for a new outlet;
- we extend the line, carefully fastening the cores together with a twist or some other connection method;
- where the old strobe was located, we install a junction box and put the fastening points of the cores into it;
- it remains to install the socket and connect the socket itself to the mains, you're done!
Scheme for extending the wire when moving the outlet Agree - a lot of advantages. You can throw the outlet not only on the next wall, but even on the floor. It is worth noting that the conductor is extended using a cable made of exclusively the same metal and always with the same cross section.
Sometimes the situation is simpler - the electrical outlet needs to be moved a little closer to junction box. In this case, the wire must not be increased, but rather made shorter. You just need to create a new strobe, shorten the old line and install the outlet.
Finally, it is worth mentioning the main mistake that is often made when extending the wire.
Often, the connection of an already elongated cable is inserted into the old strobe of the socket and smeared with alabaster mixture. You can't do that! If only for this reason, access to connectors is closed in this way, which quite often fail and require replacement.
Method three - new line
This method of moving the outlet to another place is considered the safest and at the same time reliable.
It consists in adding a separate wire leading from to the outlet. Of course, much more time and effort will be required here than in the first two methods. However, it's really worth it!
In addition, this method will allow you to move the outlet to any convenient place.
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