A special direction at the junction of medicine and cosmetology, called trichology (Greek trichos - hair; logos - teaching), deals with the study of hair and scalp and their treatment. The science of trichology is considered to be a section of dermatocosmetology. In Russia, only at the beginning of the 90s they started talking about trichology, and the first specialists began to appear just a few years ago, and the trichologist himself diagnoses and selects a professional method of hair and hair skin care, in contrast to the West, where these two functions separated.
Who is a trichologist?
A trichologist specializing in the science of trichology examines the hair and makes recommendations on how to diagnose and treat it. If the hair has lost its shine, has become dull and thin, they have to be washed more often, and they fall out strongly, then this is a reason to consult a trichologist to diagnose the disease. The diagnosis of hair diseases includes the study of hair using a trichogram to count the hair, study the structure and determine the quality, spectral analysis, study of the hormonal and immune state according to indications, ultrasound of the internal organs and, if required, consultations with a gastroenterologist or allergist. Patients can be treated with medications and physiotherapy procedures.
How do you become a trichologist?
Hair cannot be considered separately from the rest of the body, it is an indicator of the state of the whole body, it is the hair that noticeably reacts to internal problems, which the trichotherapist will help to eliminate. In the West, the development of trichology is given due attention. Within the framework of aesthetic medicine, there are two main areas of training for specialists in the diagnosis and treatment of hair and scalp - a trichologist and a trichotherapist. In order to become a trichologist, a doctor must complete three years of training and pass all exams, after which he is given the A. I. T. qualification and the position of trichotherapist. Two years of practice in a specialized clique gives the trichologist the right to be a member of the society of trichologists and bear the title of M. I. T. vol.
How to eat your hair
The beauty and health of your hair depends on the quality of your nutrition. It is necessary to take a rational amount of protein in food, especially in the morning. For hair growth, amino acids are needed, which, along with other nutrients, enter the body with food.
What substances does hair need?
With the help of blood flow, the delivery of nutrients is provided, and through the capillaries they enter the hair papilla. A properly balanced diet is a direct route to healthy hair and skin. Eat plenty of fruits and vegetables, and if you are on a vegetarian diet, do not forget about soy. It is also necessary to take as a dietary supplement preparations containing iron and vitamins B and C.
Some people believe that regular intake of supplements that are high in vitamins and minerals can replace a normal diet and even allow you to go on a diet. This is a deep misconception.
The role of good nutrition
Eating a balanced, healthy meal three times a day that contains enough protein, plus fruits and vegetables, is essential for the health of the entire body, including hair. In the event that you eat a diet prescribed by a trichologist to improve your skin, hair and nails, be patient, a change in diet cannot affect your condition overnight. This should take three to four months.
You should drink about 6 or 7 glasses of water a day. In the summer, fluid intake becomes even more relevant. Also in summer there are more fruits and vegetables, and sometimes we neglect proteins. This is unacceptable for the hair, otherwise an intense "leaf fall" will begin in the fall.
Don't forget about micronutrients
Now about microelements. By consuming enough food and fluids, there is no guarantee that all the necessary micronutrients and vitamins are received. It often happens that some substances are not absorbed, but simply excreted (in particular, with dysbiosis). Deficiency can be overt and latent, which ultimately affects the condition of the skin and hair.
Most often, iron deficiency is the cause of dullness and brittle hair. Hair begins to split both longitudinally and transversely, diffuse hair loss begins, the degree of which depends on the degree of iron deficiency.
Effects of anemia on hair loss
Women are more susceptible to this ailment due to heavy menstruation, diets and so-called "cleansing" of the body, as well as with increased physical exertion. Vegetarian diets can also lead to this situation. At the same time, in combination with sports activities like shaping, latent or overt anemia may develop. Outwardly, signs of anemia are pallor, fatigue, lethargy, dry skin, peeling nails and hair loss. With anemia in the blood test, a low hemoglobin content. With latent anemia, external clinical signs are not so pronounced, and sometimes hair loss is the main indicator.
The diagnosis is established using laboratory diagnostics. The main indicators of protein, transferrin, ferritin and serum iron, are the first to change. Based on the results of the analysis, the doctor can prescribe a special diet and prescribe vitamins.
A trichologist is a highly specialized dermatocosmetologist who studies the structure of the hair and scalp, the causes and mechanism of pathologies development, as well as treating diseases of the hair and scalp.
The main problem that the trichologist deals with is child, male and female baldness of various origins and related diseases. The trichologist conducts preventive procedures that keep the hair and scalp in good condition, gives recommendations for care, together with oncologists treats hair loss after radiation or chemotherapy, participates in doctors' consultations on the advisability of hair transplantation.
A trichologist does not treat internal organs, but can send for consultation and examination to doctors of related specialties to make an accurate diagnosis. The profession of a trichologist is most closely associated with endocrinologists, gastroenterologists, therapists, pediatricians, dermatovenerologists, mycologists, epidemiologists, cosmetologists, infectious disease specialists, and oncologists. Within trichology there is a specialty of a pediatric trichologist.
A trichologist treats:
- Total baldness and local alopecia of various origins, including genetically determined.
- Trichophytosis or ringworm.
- Early gray hair.
- Hair loss of various etiologies.
- Pityriasis - pityriasis versicolor, dandruff.
- Lishai: pink, asbestos, red flat.
- Scalp psoriasis.
- Microsporia and other mycoses.
- Seborrhea dry and eczema-like.
- Lice (head lice).
- Mentagru is a lichen localized on the chin.
- Spontaneous changes in hair color, structure.
- Manifestations of tertiary syphilis.
- Hyperkeratosis.
- Sclerderma, lupus erythematosus - autoimmune skin pathologies.
- Folliculitis.
- Excessive body hair growth - hirsutism.
- Favus or scab.
- Allergic reactions.
- Excessive hairiness of the skin areas - hypertrichosis.
It should be emphasized that there is no official specialty of a trichologist. The admission of patients in this area is usually carried out by a dermatologist, less often by a dermatocosmetologist. According to the International Classifier of Diseases (ICD-10), trichology is a branch of dermatocosmetology and a trichologist, as a rule, owns the techniques of laser correction, cryomassage, plasma lifting, ozone, mesotherapy, electroporation, darsonvalization, electrophoresis.
In Russia, the first trichologists appeared only a few years ago.
Places of work
The trichologist works in dermatovenerological dispensaries and cosmetology clinics, research institutes, beauty parlors, and conducts receptions in special clinics and regional hospitals.
History of the profession
Trichology is one of the youngest sciences. She was born at the beginning of the last century, in the West. For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that academician D. Wheeler was the first to show interest in hair, who after another visit to the hairdresser pondered the reasons for thinning his hair (1860). He wrote many scientific articles on this subject, introduced the term "trichology". However, until 1902, when the Institute of Trichology in London was created, the science of hair was not recognized as official medicine.
F. Low is considered the founder of the new direction. After 16 years of scientific and practical activity, he managed to open the world's first Scalpa and Volos hospital, which quickly gained popularity among patients and a well-deserved authority. The hospital operated until the outbreak of World War II and was only reopened in 1959. On the basis of this medical institution, training of trichologists began, first for England, and then for the whole of Europe. Today in the countries of the European Union special attention is paid to trichology. It has become a whole area of aesthetic medicine.
In the Russian Federation, trichology began to develop from the end of the twentieth century, the first specialists in trichology appeared only a few years ago. All of them completed an internship in the West. Today this branch of dermatology is rapidly developing, using modern methods of microvideo diagnostics. Trichologists use innovative pharmaceuticals, physiotherapy, the latest techniques, including laser, plasma-lifting and mesotherapy. The newest trend is the graduation of science into trichotherapy and trichosurgery.
Mesotherapy is one of the treatments for hair loss that a doctor uses.
Duties of a trichologist
The main duties of a trichologist are as follows:
- Outpatient consultations and inpatient treatment of patients.
- Apparatus treatment: photorejuvenation, laser hair removal, non-injection mesotherapy, electrocoagulation.
- Injection therapy: mesotherapy, biorevitalization, plasma lifting.
- Drawing up individual hair restoration programs.
- Training in the rules of hair and scalp care. Selection of individual cosmetics, shampoos.
- Organization and conduct of herbal medicine sessions.
- Referral for hair transplant.
- Registration of sick leave and primary documentation.
Requirements for a trichologist
Basic requirements for a trichologist include:
- Higher medical education, a valid accreditation certificate for dermatovenerology or cosmetology.
- Trichology training is welcome.
- Skills of working with botulinum toxin.
- Ability to carry out biorevitalization with fillers.
- Compliance with the rules of asepsis and antiseptics.
- Confident possession of a PC, work in the unified information system of the clinic.
Hair loss can indicate serious pathologies.
How to become a trichologist
To become a trichologist, you must:
- Graduate from a university or medical school with a degree in General Medicine or Pediatrics.
- Receive an accreditation sheet. To do this, you need to pass an exam and successfully pass an interview with an expert commission.
- After that, you can work on an outpatient basis with patients (for example, a therapist or pediatrician).
- To obtain a narrow specialization, you can enroll in an internship (2 years of study) in the specialty "Dermatovenereology", "Cosmetology", "Dermatocosmetology" (there is no specialization in trichology in the Russian Federation). Easier for a fee since the competition is small and you only need to have 50 certification points for admission. Is free You can get into the residency in two ways: by competition on a general basis or by the targeted referral of the chief physician of a medical organization in which the specialist is already working.
Physicians are required to achieve 50 certification points each year. To do this, you can take advanced training courses (36 points), attend scientific and practical conferences (the number of points depends on the event, but usually about 10 points), publish scientific papers, write books, defend dissertations. If you have enough points, you can continue to work. If the points are not scored, then you will have to either stop medical practice, or solve this problem in "non-standard" ways.
The experience, skill and quality of the doctor's work are usually assessed qualification categories, which can be obtained by defending a research paper. During the defense, the commission assesses the doctor's skills in the field of diagnosis, treatment, prevention, as well as the relevance of his knowledge.
What are the qualification categories:
- the second - over 3 years of experience;
- the first - more than 7 years of experience;
- the highest - more than 10 years of experience.
The qualification category allows you to occupy high positions in medical institutions, gives the right to a salary increase, gives status in the professional environment and high confidence on the part of patients. Even more respect can be gained by speaking at conferences, symposia, and writing scientific articles and papers.
The doctor has the right not to qualify, but this will impede his career and professional growth.
Trichologists salary
The general income range is as follows: trichologists earn from 20,000 to 250,000 rubles a month. Trichologists are most in demand in the Moscow and Leningrad regions. We found the minimum salary for a doctor in one of the Moscow medical centers - 20,000 rubles a month, the maximum salary - also in Moscow in a modern trichology clinic - 250,000 rubles a month.
The average salary of a trichologist is 60,000 rubles a month.
Until now, the specialty "doctor-trichologist" has not been introduced in the classifier of professions. What are the features of his work, what kind of education he should receive, what are the requirements for this specialist - we tell in the article.
In our country, trichology is considered a branch of dermatology and aesthetic medicine, and in the classifier of professions of the Ministry of Health, there is still no specialty “trichologist”.
The peculiarity of the work of a specialist in Russia is also that the doctor not only prescribes treatment, but also carries out all physiotherapy and injection procedures himself, as well as selects care.
Trichologist education
A future trichologist must first get an education at the Department of Dermatovenereology or cosmetology, and then attend a certification course in trichology, or take a set in a clinical residency in cosmetology, which includes the cycle "Trichology".
INTERESTING
The education received at the First Moscow State Medical University named after I.M. Sechenov. Here, at the Department of Skin and Venereal Diseases. V.A. Rakhmanov, you can choose the discipline "Trichology", or listen to the course of the same name at the Department of Cosmetology. There are a large number of training centers where practitioners teach, among others.
The duration of training for a trichologist varies from one to five days. Very important:
There are a large number of sites on the Internet that offer to study the profession of a trichologist, posing as branches of departments of popular universities. However, words like “at RUDN University” often mean only geographical proximity to the university. When choosing courses, I advise you to avoid the training offered by cosmetic companies. Most often they have nothing to do with medical trichology, and the document that you receive at the end of the curriculum will only be a reminder of wasted money.
I received the specialty "General Medicine" at the Kuban State Medical University, and took an internship in dermatovenerology at the St. Petersburg Medical Academy of Postgraduate Education (MAPO), where I also underwent a retraining cycle in cosmetology. It is interesting that, within the framework of their qualifications, cosmetologists and plastic surgeons can receive patients with trichological problems (in particular, hair transplant is a surgical operation). However, in these cases, the diagnoses may be inaccurate and the treatment plan incorrect. In addition, of course, not every cosmetologist who has found the opportunity to purchase a trichoscope has the right to diagnose and prescribe treatment. Yes, certain knowledge will help to see the problem, but only trichologists can provide high-quality anamnesis, research and treatment, and even better - if paired with colleagues-endocrinologists.
What knowledge should a specialist trichologist have?
A specialist trichologist should, first of all, understand the anatomy and physiology of hair and scalp, understand the nature of diseases that affect the condition of the hair. It is very important to collect the most complete anamnesis, carry out qualified diagnostics, competently develop a treatment plan and ensure a stable positive result.
A specialist trichologist needs knowledge in dermatology, immunology, endocrinology and even nutritional science. It is very important to attend scientific and practical conferences, communicate with colleagues and constantly invest in your development. If possible, you should become a guest of international congresses, because this is an excellent chance to stay in touch with world trichology, to start sharing experience with trichologists from other countries.
If we talk about me, then I combine all of the above with the knowledge gained at the Department of Endocrinology, FPK MR, RUDN. Here doctors teach the modern concept of medicine "5P", help them become so-called D-doctors, that is, specialists who can work with vitamin D and hormones, and also answer the question of what happens in the body during a particular disease at the cellular level ...
A simple example: among the reasons for diffuse hair loss is a lack of vitamins, and a trichologist, if a vitamin D deficiency is detected, may recommend taking medications so that the level of the substance becomes optimal - 50-80 ng / ml. Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disease, and vitamin D activates the human immune system.
In other words, along with the competition, the need to know and be able to many more colleagues grows. Modern patients are demonstrating the consequences of environmental degradation, malnutrition and a decrease in the quality of food consumed. I often say that hair loss is a consequence of negative changes in the body.
The demand for the profession of a trichologist
There are always vacancies for trichologists, there are many of them, and this is largely due to the growing popularity of the profession. Perhaps, in the near future, Russians will start seeing a personal trichologist, by analogy with a dentist and a therapist or family doctor. In the West, this approach is already being practiced.
A beginner trichologist receives a salary in the region of 15,000-20,000 rubles, a specialist with experience can earn up to 60,000 rubles a month. Moreover, in Moscow this figure can reach 150,000.
The average price for a trichologist's appointment ranges from 1,100 to 4,000 rubles per consultation. Often doctors-trichologists combine two rates: directly a trichologist, as well as a cosmetologist, performing procedures in the field of aesthetic cosmetology.
Trichologist Is a narrow specialization doctor who is engaged in identifying ( diagnostics) and treatment of diseases hair and scalp in both adults and children ( pediatric trichologist). This specialist develops prevention methods aimed at preventing early destruction of the hair structure, gives recommendations on proper scalp and hair care, and performs some medical procedures himself. A trichologist can prescribe a wide variety of treatment methods - from drugs to surgery ( hair transplantation). It can also be physiotherapy procedures ( darsonvalization, cryomassage, laser therapy) and the use of various masks, herbal tinctures. In some cases, hair diseases can be treated by dermatologists or cosmetologists, but it is best to contact a trichologist if you have problems of this kind.
In order to become a trichologist, you first need to get a higher medical education after graduating from the medical faculty. Trichology is believed to be a subsection of dermatology ( dermatocosmetology), therefore, you should undergo a residency in the specialty of a dermatologist. After that, it is necessary to receive the so-called additional education, that is, improvement in trichology.
Trichology ( trichos - hair and logos - science; "Hair science") Is a branch of medicine that studies the structure of hair ( morphology) and their physiology. Science began its development in the second half of the 20th century and continues its active development. Today there are a large number of educational and research centers in trichology. New methods of preventive measures, diagnostic procedures and treatment regimens are researched and developed every day. In some countries, there have recently been trichological centers and clinics where highly specialized professionals treat.
History contains many cultures and peoples who have attached different meanings to hair. For example, in ancient Egypt it was fashionable to shave heads bald and wear wigs. After that, hairdressing began to develop, various hair products were made. Among other peoples, men were forbidden to have long hair. If a girl in Russia left her hair loose, this indicated that she was a witch.
What does a trichologist do?
A trichologist deals with the diagnosis and treatment of diseases that affect the hair and scalp. Also, a trichologist develops methods of prevention and gives recommendations for proper hair care, which are selected individually in each case.
Usually, if you have any hair problems ( hair loss, brittle hair, dandruff) many people begin to self-medicate, which is unacceptable. Others seek advice from friends or their hairdresser. Some hair problems may indicate a serious condition. And a trichologist can help to deal with this.
A trichologist treats the following diseases and pathological conditions of hair:
- alopecia ( baldness);
- seborrhea ( seborrheic dermatitis);
- psoriasis ( scaly lichen);
- ringworm ( trichophytosis, microsporia);
- favus ( scab);
- folliculitis;
- trichoclasia;
- trichoptilosis;
- trichonodosis;
- trichotortosis ( trichokinesis);
- symmetric limited allotrichia;
- leukotrichia;
- moniletrix ( spindle hair);
- hypertrichosis;
- dandruff;
- early gray hair;
- allergic reactions.
Alopecia ( baldness)
Alopecia ( baldness) Is a disease characterized by complete or partial hair loss on any part of the body ( more often on the head) and disruption of the process of new hair growth. The causes of alopecia are hormonal disorders in the body, genetic predisposition, exposure to external factors, and taking certain medications.
There are the following types of alopecia:
- diffuse alopecia- characterized by uniform hair thinning;
- alopecia areata- absence ( dropping out) hair on some parts of the head or trunk;
- total alopecia- characterized by a complete lack of hair;
- androgenic alopecia- hair loss occurs as a result of increased levels of male sex hormones ( androgens).
Seborrhea ( seborrheic dermatitis)
There are the following types of seborrhea:
- Oily seborrhea- pathology, which is characterized by increased work of the sebaceous glands ( excess sebum production) and is accompanied by flaking of the scalp, itching. Hair gets an unhealthy shine, dandruff appears. If untreated, it can be complicated by the development of pustular skin diseases ( furunculosis, abscess).
- Dry seborrhea- pathology, which is characterized by a violation of consistency ( densities) sebum ( becomes viscous), which complicates its normal selection. Clinically manifests itself as dry, thinning and brittle hair. Itching and dandruff also appear.
- Mixed seborrhea- this pathology combines the manifestation of oily seborrhea in some areas and dry seborrhea in others.
Psoriasis ( scaly lichen)
Psoriasis is a non-infectious skin disease characterized by the formation of scales ( red scaly patches) or blisters ( bubbles) with clear liquid, itching. As a rule, it has a chronic course. The most common form is scalp psoriasis. The disease begins with itching. Then red spots appear, which are usually located in the forehead and back of the head. These foci of psoriasis ( scales or blisters) merge with each other and can cover the entire head. The causes of such a pathology may be disturbances in the functioning of the immune system, the effect of environmental factors or a genetic predisposition.
Ringworm ( trichophytosis, microsporia)
Ringworm is a contagious fungal disease that affects the skin, hair, and nails. The foci of the disease are most often formed on the crown, in the region of the temple and the back of the head.
There are the following types of ringworm:
- Trichophytosis Is a disease caused by fungi of the genus Trichophyton. With this pathology, clearly delimited rounded foci of inflammation with scales, vesicles are formed on the scalp, which quickly dry out and transform into crusts. Hair with trichophytosis is usually broken off at the level of 2 to 3 millimeters from the skin and looks like black dots ( so called hemp).
- Microsporia Is a disease caused by fungi of the genus Microsporum. With this disease, peeling appears at the site of infection. After a week, the hair begins to break off, as with trichophytosis. If you run your hand over the hearth ( to stroke) where the hair is broken off, they will not restore their original position. The skin in the affected area becomes red, swollen, and scaly.
Favus ( scab)
Favus is a fungal disease that can damage the skin, scalp, nails and internal organs. More often women and children get sick. The scalp favus is characterized by the appearance of red spots with a yellow-gray crust along the edge. These foci are saucer-shaped with a depression in the center. Hair in the affected area becomes thinner, thinning ( easily pulled out), dry, dull ( as if dusty). May acquire specific mouse ( barn) smell.
Pediculosis ( lice)
Folliculitis
Folliculitis is an infectious disease that is most often caused by staphylococcal bacteria and is characterized by purulent inflammation of the hair follicle ( hair root). Minor skin lesions and contamination, changes in ambient temperature, unhealthy diet, and the presence of chronic diseases can contribute to its occurrence. Folliculitis begins with the formation of inflammation ( redness and swelling) around the hair follicle. A few days later, a bubble forms ( abscess), filled with purulent fluid ( yellow-green). After a few days, this abscess may burst ( open up) and a dry crust will appear in its place, which will peel off. Hair that is involved in the infection process is easily shed or removed. Folliculitis is usually itchy and sore.
Trichoclasia
Trichoclasia is a pathological condition of hair that is characterized by fragility. Externally, the hair is usually unchanged, but breaks off at a distance of up to 10 centimeters from the scalp. Usually, lesions with damaged hair are rounded. Trichoclasia can be accompanied by itching, dry scalp, and flaking. The development of this pathology may be due to a genetic predisposition to increased hair fragility, the influence of external factors ( curling irons, irons, hair dyes), improper hair care or lack of vitamins in the body.
Trichoptilosis
Trichoptilosis is a pathological condition of the hair, which is characterized by their longitudinal section. At the same time, the ends of the hair are split into several parts. Over time, this can lead to thinning, weakening, brittle hair and hair loss. More often women with long hair who do not cut them for a long time are prone to trichoptilosis. From the severity, the structure of the hair begins to deteriorate, and they begin to split. There are many factors that cause split ends. Some of them are improper hair care ( drying with a hairdryer, frequent dyeing, curling), temperature fluctuations, malnutrition and, as a result, a lack of vitamins.
Trichonodosis
Trichonodosis is a pathological condition in which the hair is pulled into small nodules ( loops). The formation of knots leads to tangled hair and the accumulation of dust and bacteria in these areas. Over time, the hair is injured, splits ( delaminate) and break. The occurrence of trichonodosis can be facilitated by existing diseases of the scalp ( accompanied by itching), sloppy combing. Also, nodules can form due to the use of combs with sharp teeth, improper hair care.
Trichotortosis ( trichokinesis)
Trichotothosis is a pathological condition of hair, in which their shape is disturbed and they twist around the longitudinal axis ( by lenght). This pathology is congenital and is quite rare, mainly in the owners of light hair. Hair with trichotortosis is dry, thin, prone to breaking off. Locks with twisted hair are usually located in the temporal and occipital regions. Gradually, if untreated, trichotortosis can lead to baldness.
Allotrichy symmetric bounded
Symmetrical limited allotrichia is an anomaly of hair development, which is inherited and characterized by the presence of symmetrical foci with impaired hair growth. Unlike other hereditary diseases, allotrichia begins to manifest itself in adolescence. This pathology can be accompanied by the growth of thin, coarse, bleached and spirally curled hair. Hair begins to tangle and gradually fall out. On the scalp, you can observe slight peeling.
Leukotrichia
Leukotrichia is a genetic disorder characterized by congenital graying of hair. This pathology is due to the absence of pigment ( colourant) or insufficient production. Clinically manifested by graying of hair, eyelashes, eyebrows. Also, in people with leukotrichia, the skin becomes white and sensitive to external factors.
Moniletrix
Moniletrix is a pathological condition of hair that is inherited and begins to manifest itself in early childhood ( in the first year of life). Moreover, on the scalp ( at the site of hair growth) small dense nodules resembling beads are formed. The skin becomes dry and begins to flake off. The hair takes on the appearance of a spindle and is called spindle-shaped. Areas of thickening of the hair alternate with areas of thinning. Also, the hair becomes dry, brittle, split ends. Pockets of alopecia may form.
Hypertrichosis
Hypertrichosis is a condition characterized by excess hair growth anywhere on the body ( even where it is not typical). It can develop in both men and women and does not depend on age. Excessive hair growth can occur as a result of genetic mutations, disorders in the hormonal system. Also, the development of hypertrichosis can contribute to some diseases ( fungal skin lesions, anorexia nervosa) and taking medications ( antibiotics, corticosteroids).
Hirsutism
Hirsutism is a condition characterized by excess male-pattern hair growth on the body and face in women. Hair appears on the chin, above the upper lip, upper chest, back and abdomen. This will cause the hair to darken and become stiff. This pathology is associated with an increase in the level of male sex hormones ( androgens) in a woman's blood. Hirsutism often leads to menstrual irregularities, uterine bleeding, and infertility.
Dandruff
Dandruff is a syndrome characterized by long-term exfoliation of white scales from the scalp. This syndrome often develops in people with oily hair. The causes of dandruff are considered to be improper care of the scalp and hair, lack of vitamins in the body, reduced immunity, constant stress.
Early gray hair
Early gray hair is a pathological process characterized by the appearance of gray hair ( discolored) hair under the age of 25. The causes of early gray hair are thyroid diseases, iron deficiency anemia, gastritis, genetic predisposition, nervous stress, frequent chemical exposure to hair ( dyeing, curling). All these reasons can lead to a violation of the production of melanin ( hair coloring pigment).
Allergic reactions
In case of allergic reactions that affect the scalp, it is also necessary to consult a trichologist. Allergies can result from hypersensitivity ( individual intolerance) to certain substances or tissues. An example would be using hair dyes, shampoos, gels, and wearing hats. Allergies may not develop immediately, but after several such procedures. Initially, it manifests itself in the form of redness of the skin, the formation of a rash or blisters ( bubbles with liquid). Then itching and burning join, peeling appears. Gradually, the hair begins to thin and fall out.
How is the reception of a trichologist going?
To visit a trichologist, it is recommended to follow some simple rules. The day before consulting this specialist, you need to wash your hair with shampoo, which the patient uses constantly. Directly on the day of inspection, it is recommended to exclude tight tightening ( weaving) hair, the use of any cosmetic products on the hair ( gels, varnishes), using a curling iron, ironing.
Reception of a trichologist begins with a detailed survey ( taking anamnesis) of the patient. The doctor asks about the complaints, finds out when they started and what the patient associates it with ( after which symptoms appeared). It is necessary to clarify if any symptoms worsen or diminish after certain influences or circumstances. You also need to find out if any self-treatment has been undertaken ( creams, masks, medicated hair lotions, vitamins), how the body reacted to it and clarify the features of hair and scalp care. When questioning, the presence of chronic diseases, family history ( with hereditary pathologies), the patient's lifestyle, bad habits and the nature of the diet.
After collecting the anamnesis, the doctor proceeds directly to the examination. At the same time, the condition of the scalp and hair is examined and assessed. After examination, the doctor can suggest what exactly the reasons could cause this or that disease. Depending on the alleged pathology, additional tests or examinations are prescribed to confirm or exclude it. After receiving them, the doctor compares all the received data about the patient ( complaints, results of examination and research) and prescribes a course of treatment that improves the condition. These can be medicines or homeopathic remedies, herbal tinctures, physiotherapy or surgical treatments. In some cases, the trichologist may order consultations from other specialists. The doctor may also recommend the use of certain scalp and hair care products that are appropriate for the patient. The result of treatment will depend on the correct regimen and on the patient's attitude to the doctor's prescriptions. To achieve the most positive result ( effect) it is necessary to follow all the doctor's recommendations and in case of any questions, do not postpone and do not hesitate to ask them.
What are the symptoms of a trichologist?
In the event of symptoms that affect the scalp or when hair damage occurs, it is necessary to consult a specialist such as a trichologist. If the hair begins to fall out, becomes dry or oily, thin and split ends, loses its shine, you cannot self-medicate. If some kind of flaking on the scalp, dandruff and itching appear, you need to seek help from a trichologist. Only this specialist will help determine whether the symptoms that have arisen are related to cosmetics for the care of the scalp and hair, or whether their appearance is caused by the presence of any disease. It is very important to consult a trichologist in time so as not to miss the time when it is still possible to save hair and get rid of pathological conditions.
Symptoms with which you should consult a trichologist
| Symptom | Mechanism of occurrence | What research is done to diagnose the causes of this symptom? | What disease can this symptom indicate? |
| Hair loss and thinning |
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| Thin and brittle hair |
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| Split hair |
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| Dry hair |
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| Greasy hair |
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| Loss of gloss (dull hair) |
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| Grey hair |
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| Dandruff (peeling) |
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| Itching and burning of the scalp |
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| Red spots on the scalp |
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What research does a trichologist conduct?
Hair is a reflection of the health of the body. If any changes appear on the part of the hair ( hair loss, dryness, dandruff) it is necessary to immediately look for the cause of their occurrence. That is, you need to engage in timely diagnosis in order to identify the presence of a problem and begin effective treatment.
Research in trichology is based on the study of the condition of the skin and scalp. Using these methods, you can determine the causes of baldness, dandruff, assess the structure of the hair.
The easiest way is to visually inspect the scalp and hair. In this case, the doctor pays attention to the amount of hair, their color, shine, the presence of foci of baldness. The color of the scalp is determined, the presence of any spots, rashes, peeling, dandruff.
There are standard laboratory research methods that are prescribed to all patients, without exception, to determine the general condition of the body. There are also special diagnostic methods that are specific only to this specialization. Additional studies are carried out in almost all pathological conditions, since a simple examination is not enough to establish a diagnosis.
General blood analysis
A general blood test is the very first and simplest test that is prescribed to almost all patients. The analysis provides general information about the state of the body.
It is recommended to take the analysis on an empty stomach ( on empty stomach). Blood sampling for research is done from a finger or from a vein. The puncture site is wiped with a swab dipped in alcohol. A medical professional makes a small puncture with a scarifier ( sharp-toothed plate) and collects blood in a special sterile tube.
In a general blood test, such indicators as hemoglobin, hematocrit, erythrocytes, leukocytes, platelets, ESR ( erythrocyte sedimentation rate). Any changes in the analysis results are deciphered by a specialist and give a more detailed picture of the disease.
Blood chemistry
A biochemical blood test is prescribed in order to assess and identify abnormalities in the work of internal organs. It is also important for a trichologist to assess the amount of trace elements that have a great influence on the formation and growth of healthy hair.
In a biochemical blood test, the following is determined:
- proteins ( albumen);
- enzymes ( ALAT, ASAT, amylase, alkaline phosphatase);
- carbohydrates ( glucose);
- fats ( cholesterol, glycerides);
- pigments ( bilirubin);
- nitrogenous substances ( creatinine, urea, uric acid);
- trace elements ( iron, calcium, magnesium).
The day before delivery, they begin to prepare for the analysis. The night before, exclude fatty, spicy foods from the diet. Only plain non-carbonated water can be drunk from liquids. The analysis is taken on an empty stomach, that is, after the last meal, at least 8 - 12 hours should pass. Also, one hour before the analysis, smoking and physical activity are excluded.
A biochemical blood test is taken from a vein. A tourniquet is applied to the shoulder. In the area of the injection, they are treated with an alcohol swab, then a needle is inserted, the tourniquet is removed. After making sure that the needle has entered the vein, blood is taken into a special sterile tube.
Analysis for hormones
An analysis for hormones is a laboratory diagnostic method that provides information about the work of the endocrine system. To prepare for the analysis, it is necessary to give up emotional and physical stress. A few days before the study, they exclude the intake of alcoholic beverages, do not visit the sauna. Before taking the analysis, it is imperative to notify the doctor if any treatment has been taken at the moment or in the last two weeks. Smoking is not permitted for at least an hour before donating blood. An analysis for hormones, as a rule, is taken before 12 noon on an empty stomach. Some hormones change their values depending on the day of the menstrual cycle, so women need to check with their doctor on which day it is better to take this test before taking it.
The main hormones for research are:
- thyroid hormones- thyroid-stimulating hormone ( TSH), thyroxine ( T4), triiodothyronine ( T3);
- sex hormones- testosterone, dehydroepiandrosterone ( DHEAS), prolactin, progesterone, follicle-stimulating hormone ( FSH), luteinizing hormone ( LH).
This analysis is taken from a vein in the same way as in a biochemical blood test. A healthcare professional sprays the surface of the elbow with an alcohol swab, inserts a sterile needle into a vein, and draws a few milliliters of blood into a disposable plastic tube. Then the blood is sent for research. Test rates may vary from laboratory to laboratory, which is usually indicated on the results sheet.
Research conducted by a trichologist
| Study | What diseases does it detect? | How is it done? |
| Inspection under Wood's lamp |
| This research method is safe and painless. Helps identify certain diseases using ultraviolet rays. To prepare for the examination, exclude any hair products ( may distort the result). It is recommended to wash and dry your scalp. Inspection under a Wood lamp is carried out in a dark room. At a distance of about 10 - 20 centimeters from the skin, the doctor brings a Wood lamp and assesses the condition of the skin. Normally, the scalp does not glow. If any luminous spots appear, the result is considered positive. |
| Scraping of the scalp |
| This research method is prescribed if there is a suspicion of a fungal nature ( the reason) diseases. It is not allowed to wash your hair three days before the test. It is also prohibited to use any cosmetic products during this period of time. Some medications can distort the test results, so they may need to be stopped temporarily. Using a special tool ( scalpel) at the hair roots, exfoliating skin scales are collected ( upper layer of the epidermis) for research. The resulting material is placed in a sterile disposable tube and sent to the laboratory for further research. |
| Spectral analysis of hair for trace elements (hair mineralogram) |
| This study is a non-invasive ( no skin damage) a diagnostic method that helps to determine the amount of trace elements ( mineral composition) in hair over the past few weeks. A complete spectral analysis includes the study of forty trace elements. But it is possible to determine the content of only one trace element of interest. To prepare for the analysis, it is recommended to stop taking medications 2 weeks before delivery. You should wash and dry your hair immediately before putting it in. Gels, varnishes, styling products should not be used. If in the last 30 days any chemical procedure has been performed on hair ( curling, bleaching, dyeing) you must inform your doctor or laboratory worker about this. For analysis, a few strands of about 5 centimeters in length are cut at the hair root from the back of the head and sent for analysis. In the laboratory, the hair is degreased, washed and dried. Then they are placed in a container, into which a special solution is added to help dissolve the hair. The resulting mixture is loaded into a so-called spectrometer, where it burns up under the influence of gas. Special sensors process data about the study and transfer them to a computer. |
| Densitometry |
| Diagnostic method of research, with which you can determine the density ( count the number) hair by one square centimeter. The number of hairs is counted in problem areas ( hair loss areas) using a special densitometer device. The results obtained are compared with normal values. This diagnostic method helps to identify the risk of excessive hair loss or to assess the degree of baldness. |
| Trichogramma (computer trichogram) |
| The research method with which it is possible to determine at what stage of growth the hair is ( active growth, transitional stage, cessation of growth). Information is given out as a percentage. To prepare for the study, at least two weeks in advance, any chemical or cosmetic ( coloring, curling, styling products) procedures with hair. It is recommended not to wash your hair five days before the procedure. The essence of the method is to extract about 60 hairs from different parts of the head and examine them under a microscope. Trichogramma allows you to identify hair loss and monitor the prescribed treatment. |
| Phototrichogram | A more detailed and more sensitive diagnostic method than trichogramma. Using this method, you can take pictures of problem areas of the hair, which enable the doctor to carry out certain calculations. In addition, you can determine the density, diameter, structure of the hair, assess the condition of the scalp. The difference from the trichogram is that for a phototrichogram, a small section of hair is shaved off and after a few days the scalp is examined. Regrown hair on this part of the head is dyed with a special dye. Then, using a special device ( trichoscope) the data is transferred to a computer where calculations are made in order to establish the correct diagnosis. |
|
| Savin scale |
| This diagnostic method helps to determine the degree of hair loss in women. For this, a scale is used, where nine illustrations are shown, which differ in the intensity of hair loss. The illustrations begin with a depiction of minor hair loss and end with increased hair loss up to baldness. |
| Hair tension test |
| This test detects pathological hair loss. To prepare for this test, you must not wash your hair for five days. A hair tension test involves the doctor grabbing a small tuft of hair between the thumb and forefinger and pulling it up. This procedure is checked at several points - in the frontal, occipital and parietal regions. Pathological hair loss is talked about when more than 10 percent of the hair remains in the hands of the doctor. If less hair remains, then this is considered the norm ( physiological hair loss). |
What methods does a trichologist treat?
Hair diseases usually lead to noticeable external changes. The person begins to feel discomfort and hesitates to appear in society. If you experience any symptoms affecting the scalp and hair, you should immediately consult a trichologist. In some cases, when the disease is hereditary, the doctor can prescribe only supportive therapy, which will alleviate the symptoms of the disease. In other cases, the trichologist prescribes complex treatment, which is based on the use of ointments, masks, and medicines. Physiotherapy is sometimes prescribed. Also, a trichologist gives recommendations for proper hair and scalp care, depending on the individual characteristics of the patient. Advises funds ( shampoo, balm, mask) with a specific composition that suit a specific hair type. Lifestyle and bad habits, which must be abandoned, are of great importance in the treatment of diseases of the hair and scalp.
The main methods that a trichologist treats
| Disease | The main methods of treatment | The mechanism of therapeutic action | Approximate duration of treatment |
| Alopecia |
|
| The duration depends on the type of alopecia, the severity of the disease and the correct treatment regimen; The recovery course of treatment can take from one month to several years. |
| Seborrhea |
|
| The duration of treatment depends on the type of seborrhea; It is usually carried out in courses and lasts about two months. |
| Psoriasis (scaly lichen) |
|
| The duration of treatment is approximately 1 - 2 months. |
| Ringworm (trichophytosis, microsporia) |
|
| Depends on the form of the lesion; The duration of treatment is about 6 weeks; With complications, it can take up to several months. |
| Favus (scab) |
|
| Long-term treatment; Depends on how the body responds to treatment. |
| Pediculosis (lice) |
|
| The period of complete elimination of lice usually takes up to two weeks. |
| Folliculitis |
|
| |
| Trichoclasia |
|
| The hair restoration treatment can take about 6 months. |
| Trichoptilosis |
|
| Hair restoration usually takes several months; Constant prophylaxis is needed. |
| Trichonodosis |
|
| The duration of treatment depends on the severity of the disease and is selected individually. |
| Trichotortosis |
|
| The duration of treatment is several months; Conducted by courses 2 - 3 times a year. |
| Allotrichy symmetric bounded |
|
| The disease is not treatable; Supportive therapy is prescribed in courses several times a year. |
| Leukotrichia |
|
| It is not amenable to treatment, as it is hereditary; Symptomatic treatment is carried out several times a year. |
| Moniletrix |
|
| Is not amenable to treatment; Constant supportive ( symptomatic) therapy courses. |
| Hypertrichosis |
|
| The duration of treatment varies in each individual case; Electric hair removal treatments are performed for one year. |
| Hirsutism |
|
| Treatment can take up to one year to achieve a noticeable reduction in clinical manifestations. |
| Dandruff |
|
| Treatment can last up to two months, depending on the severity. |
| Early gray hair |
|
| Supportive treatment is carried out 1 to 2 times a week in courses of 2 to 3 months. |
| Allergic reactions |
|
| The duration of treatment is 2 to 3 weeks. |
The Village rips off the covers from the head and finds out why we cannot grow our hair to the priests, how many times a week a healthy person should wash his hair and what is the insidiousness of burdock oil
- Sasha Sheveleva, 13 March 2015
- 289613
- 75
In different areas of knowledge, now everything is changing so quickly that even specialists cannot keep up with the changes, what can we say about ordinary citizens. Therefore, under the heading "What's new?" Every week, we learn from scientists, doctors and other professionals about how their fields of work are changing and what these changes mean for ordinary mortals. In this issue of our medical detective, The Village correspondent Alexandra Sheveleva asks the trichologist on what hair care products men can save on, but women cannot, why we cannot always grow our hair to the length we want, and whether we are really bald men are the sexiest.
About the short life of a hair
- As it turned out, few people know what trichologists do and what kind of doctors they are.
This is a narrow specialization of a dermatovenerologist. Trichology has been actively developing in the world for a long time, and since the mid-90s, when the first trichologists appeared in our country, it has been actively developing in Russia as well. In the USSR, trichology as a specialty was not, and all hair treatment was limited to burdock oil, castor oil, pepper, burdock root and advice not to wash your hair often.
- When a patient comes to you, what do you do with him?
The first is the examination. We must eliminate internal factors that can cause hair loss, such as common diseases. For this purpose, tests are recommended (blood test for sex hormones, thyroid hormones, trace elements). Computer diagnostics are performed to determine the type of hair loss. Under high magnification we check the condition of the skin and hair: we estimate the amount of hair, the percentage of vellus and thinning hair, the presence of “empty” hair follicles, inflammation of the scalp. Also, the survey includes a special analysis - a phototrichogram: two sections of hair of a small diameter are clipped to hemp of the same length. Two days later, the patient comes to the appointment and we take pictures of the prepared zones, on which the indicators of hair growth are determined - the percentage of growing and falling out, hair density, growth rate. According to the totality of analyzes, the cause of the loss, aggravating factors is determined and a forecast is made. There is also a spectral analysis of hair for trace elements. This analysis is recommended for hair shaft pathology, it can also be used in combination with blood tests to diagnose deficiency conditions in the body.
- In general, what do people come to you with? When is everything already completely bad (early baldness, gray hair, hair fell out)?
The attitude to hair changes in both women and men. People already understand that presentable appearance is not only a well-groomed face and figure, but also healthy hair. Quite young people come to us - 20-40 years old. At a later age, patients, unfortunately, are not yet accustomed to taking care of themselves, so there are not so many aged patients, although according to statistics, most women and men over 50 have hair problems. Increasingly, men are seeking help with incipient thinning, or androgenetic alopecia. This is a typical form of hair loss - the frontotemporal angles are aggravated, the number of hairs in the vertex decreases, and a "horseshoe" -type thinning is formed.
- Why does this happen to men?
This happens not only to men, but to women too. This is our hereditary predisposition. By and large, hair has lost its biological significance in modern humans. Now the hair has only an aesthetic function. From a physiological point of view, the body is aging, and hair aging is one of the manifestations of aging of the body as a whole. It is believed that the peak of our hair development is 16-18 years. In children, the hair is still immature (lighter and thinner), then during puberty, under the influence of hormones, the hair matures: it thickens and pigments, but it becomes smaller. In general, throughout our life, there is a progressive decrease in the number of hair follicles - for example, in a newborn, the hair density is about 1100 per square centimeter, by the age of 16 there are about 400. New ones are no longer formed.
Woman endured stress, calmed down, had already forgotten about him, and after two or three months she had delayed hair reaction on stress
- From the age of 18 begins the death of follicles?
It can be more pronounced, and then such patients come to us. Now the thinning processes are becoming more and more early. We are already bringing children 12 years old with developing androgenetic alopecia. Children mature earlier and hair loss is more youthful.
- Can you stop it somehow?
Can. Nowadays there are both systemic and external therapy and physiotherapy.
- It turns out that from the age of 18 the hair begins to die off?
This is normal because our skin also ages. If we are talking about women, then until the menopause, hair loss will be felt only by those who have genetically determined thinning. With the onset of menopause, hair deteriorates in all women. In women, hair loss is a combination of various factors: we are more emotional, more prone to stress, we often experience depression, we are on different diets, we have monthly iron loss, plus a genetic predisposition may be added.
- Does hair color affect its vitality?
Hair loss is the same for blondes and brunettes. To a lesser extent, early graying are susceptible to this: gray hair becomes less sensitive to harmful factors. If a man turns gray before he begins to thin out, he will have a lion's gray mane until old age.
How not to be left without hair
- What to do? Is it possible to somehow slow down the death of follicles?
Yes, various lotions have been created for this, which affect the metabolism of the hair follicle. These are chemically synthesized growth stimulants that regulate cell division in the hair follicle. Recently, the use of drugs based on peptides in trichology has been rapidly developing. These are artificially synthesized active substances, which in their mechanism of action resemble natural hair growth factors. In addition, there are drugs that reduce the negative effect of male hormones on hair.
- What are the new treatment technologies now?
Probably, the use of peptides and growth factors in trichology, which can be both synthetic and isolated from the patient's blood. This is a procedure (plasma therapy) that is becoming more and more popular - plasma is obtained from one's own blood with a high content of platelets, which are the source of the main growth factors.
- Surely also the way of life, as usual, affects the growth and thinning.
Yes, there was a study - the development of androgenic alopecia was observed in twins with the same set of genes. The degree of thinning with age was different for them: in those who did not smoke, eat right and lead a healthy lifestyle, the preservation of hair was higher.
- Serious difference?
Serious enough, visible to the eye.
- When do you need to drop everything and run to the trichologist? Or, if clumps of hair are already falling out, is it too late to talk to a doctor?
No, it's not too late. You need to see a doctor if you have a loss that lasts more than three months. If the hair falls out for less than three months, this may be a reaction of the hair to anesthesia, surgery, injury, illness with a high temperature, taking medications, stress. Hair follicle cells are the fastest dividing cells in the body, so they are very sensitive to all negative factors.
- That is, today I was nervous, and tomorrow my hair may fall out?
No. There are different stages of hair growth, the stage of hair loss lasts two to three months. This means that we were nervous, the hair immediately entered the stage of loss, stopped growing, but it will leave the head only after two or three months. It turns out that the woman has endured stress, calmed down, has already forgotten about it, and after two or three months she has a belated hair reaction to stress. However, if the triggering factor is eliminated, such a loss will be favorable and, with a high probability, will stop on its own. If the loss lasts more than three months, this is a reason to see a doctor. Lingering hair loss suggests that either recurring triggers are at work or there is a persistent cause that has not been addressed.
- Is it true that bald men are the sexiest?
You can see for yourself that with age there are more balding men, while the amount of testosterone does not increase with age, but decreases. Therefore, it is important not only how much testosterone is in the blood, but also its metabolism in tissues. Low testosterone aggravates hair loss, but it is not true that baldness is associated with high testosterone levels.
About the fight against dandruff
- A person himself can understand that he has inflammation?
Yes. This is itching, dandruff, soreness of the skin.
- And, that is, dandruff is inflammation?
Of course, this is the flaking of the inflamed skin.
- Why is it happening?
The most common cause is seborrheic dermatitis, a problem that most people experience during their lifetime. The dandruff that we often have is an inflammation of the skin against the background of excess sebum secretion. The fact is that the scalp actively secretes a sebaceous secretion, and this fat is a breeding ground for fungi - our normal microflora. The problem is more common in those who do not properly care for the scalp.
- And I, I remember, on the contrary, was told that if you often wash your hair, dandruff may appear.
If we wash our hair often, it may dry out the skin and its dehydration, but do we wash our face every day? And on the head there is at times more fat than on the face.
- But doesn't this fat protect our hair?
Yes, but at the same time it is a breeding ground for microbes and fungi. They multiply actively, releasing fatty acids, and this inflammatory reaction is an allergy to their waste products. Hence the industry of anti-dandruff shampoos based on antifungal ingredients.
- Do these shampoos help? Or do you have to go to the doctor so that he picks up the drug?
If this dandruff first appeared and is not accompanied by severe inflammation, rash, itching, soreness of the skin, then you can go to the pharmacy and buy an anti-dandruff shampoo based on ketoconazole or climbazole. It should contain salicylic acid or other fruit acids, as well as antipruritic and anti-inflammatory components. The right shampoo - which contains several active ingredients. One of the reasons anti-dandruff shampoos don't work is because they are used once a week, which is not enough. Within two weeks, dandruff treatment should help.
Average man must wash my hair every day
- Many have remembered from childhood that they need to wash their hair once a week.
The average man should wash his hair every day.
- Is it okay to wash your hair every day? There are people with dry scalp, right?
They don't. Only during menopause or a pronounced decrease in testosterone, serious skin diseases. Grease is a hormone-dependent process, androgens, male hormones, stimulate it.
- But I, for example, have curly and porous hair. If I wash my hair every day, I will have a washcloth on my head.
The average woman needs to wash her hair every other day, three times a week, because we have less testosterone and less oiliness than men.
- And what to do with curly hair?
Outwardly curly hair becomes less dirty, but the activity of the sebaceous glands does not depend on the structure of the hair. Porous curly hair absorbs greasy secretion well - if you have no scalp problems and no hair loss, we recommend washing your hair on demand. If you suffered from dandruff, you would have to wash your hair more often.
How to wash your hair correctly
- How do trichologists recommend hair care? What is proper care as understood by a specialist?
The head should be washed as the skin becomes dirty. A simple test: Use your fingers to touch your scalp, followed by a paper towel. If greasy marks remain on it, it's time to wash. The need to wash is also indicated by the appearance of itching. It is better to wash your hair with a shampoo, selected for the type of scalp.
- Yes, questions immediately arise. The person thinks, "I have dry hair, I will wash it with dry hair shampoo." But at the same time, the scalp itself can be oily.
If a person has dry hair and oily scalp, and he takes a mild shampoo that does not wash off the sebaceous secretion, a constant under-cleaning of the scalp occurs, and the sebaceous secretion accumulates on the skin and is a constant factor for the imbalance of the microbial flora. Hence, chronic dandruff and inflammation, which can lead to hair loss. Therefore, the shampoo should be chosen according to the type of scalp.
- Clear. Shampoo once or twice?
More correct two times. Remember, when your mother washed your hair as a child, it creaked. Do you wash like this now? The head should be clean, washed, so it is advisable to wash it twice: the first time we wash off the dirt and grease, the second time we fix the medicinal components on the head. After washing, we always apply either a conditioner, or a mask, or a balm to neutralize the alkaline environment that remains after the shampoo. Shampoo is an alkali that saponifies fat and has a negative charge. It must be neutralized with a positive charge of a mask, balm or conditioner. In this case, our hair will not become electrified, we close the scales of the hair cuticle and make combing easier for ourselves.
Remember when you my mother washed her hair as a child, it creaked. Do you wash like this now?
- Do men also need air conditioning?
Conditioners are applied along the length of the hair. If a man has medium-length hair, then he also needs to use conditioners, otherwise they will get tangled and electrified. Men with short hair do not need to use conditioner.
- How do you feel about co-washing, when a person washes his head with a silicone-free conditioner and does not use shampoo?
Healthy skin and hair will withstand everything, but conditioners do not contain detergents - surfactants (surfactants). Its purpose is different - to neutralize the effect of the shampoo, therefore co-washing is not a cleansing of the scalp, but its additional "fattening". Now some more girls wash their hair with shampoo according to the type of scalp, and the length of the hair is washed with shampoo according to the type of the scalp. This is more correct than washing your hair with conditioner. We also recommend washing the hair roots and skin, and rinsing the hair with dripping foam. If the head is washed often (for girls with thin hair who want to artificially create hair volume), then you can take more neutral shampoos for frequent use. They have softer detergent components that will damage the hair less, but wash away the greasy secretion.
- What's next?
After shampoo and conditioner, it is advisable to use leave-in products for the hair shaft (oils, gels, serums, fluids), which cover the hair with a film, protect it and restore it. This is especially necessary for women with long, curly (porous), colored hair and those who lighten their hair.
- Do you need to comb your hair every day in the morning and in the evening, or once is enough a day?
As paradoxical as it may seem, even with hair loss, we recommend combing frequently, because it is necessary to remove dead hair. This also applies to healthy hair - you need to comb it in the morning and in the evening.
- Grandmothers say you need to comb in order to distribute fat through your hair. This is true?
Lard is essentially the lipid mantle of the hair. When we distribute natural oil through the hair, we partially restore it. But our greasy secret is thick, it is not distributed independently along the entire length. Long hair is recommended to be combed with a wide natural bristle massage brush, which should be done 100 strokes.
About hair coloring
- I just wanted to ask about staining. In general, how often can you dye your hair? Or is it so harmful that it’s better not to even start?
There are different paints: there are tinting paints that do not contain ammonia and peroxide. These dyes only cover the hair cuticle, and are as gentle as possible for the hair shaft. There is lamination (phytolamination, elution) - not chemical, but physical coloring. In this case, the dye remains on the hair due to the difference in the electrical charge of the hair shaft and the pigment itself. This is the covering of the hair with an additional film, which, on the contrary, can protect the structure. Of course, paints of this level are not able to significantly change the color, they add tone to the hair and are quickly washed off. The next in terms of the degree of exposure are chemical paints that do not contain ammonia, with a low percentage of oxide. They change hair color by 1-2 levels. These dyes do little harm to hair and can be applied once a month. Then there are persistent dyes containing ammonia, which penetrate into the cortex of the hair, where they are firmly fixed - only they are able to paint over the gray hair. And the most harmful for the rod is clarification, for which both ammonia and high concentrations of oxide are used. When lightening again, such paints are recommended to be applied only to the roots, and to tint the length.
If there is a repeated aggressive effect of a chemical dye on the hair shaft, then this can lead to cross-section, brittleness, dryness, and loss of shine. The part of the hair above the scalp is dead, and whatever you do with it will leave a mark on it until you cut it. Therefore, the further the hair is from the scalp along the length, the more it is damaged. If the hair shaft is constantly dyed with ammonia dye, it will even lead to its fragility along the length.
- Is that why the ends of the hair split?
Split ends are damaged chains of keratin, the cortex of the hair. They are recommended to be cut monthly because they cling to each other, get confused, look unaesthetic.
How to grow hair
- Hairdressers say that you need to cut your hair regularly so that it grows better. This is true?
It is not true. We cut off the already dead part of the hair.
- If a person wants to grow hair, should they go to a hairdresser or not?
Even if you grow your hair, it still needs to be groomed and trimmed. Unkempt long hair looks unaesthetic, and long hair is needed precisely for the sake of aesthetics.
- Is there some magical way to grow long hair quickly? Some promising remedies are constantly emerging: either horse shampoo or milk serum. What helps?
It is not always possible to grow hair to the desired length. There are three reasons for this: firstly, the maximum hair length is genetically programmed and is determined by the duration of the growth stage. For example, a woman's hair growth stage is 3-5 years on average. The average hair growth rate per month is 1–1.5 centimeters, 12–15 centimeters per year, and 45 centimeters over three years. After the hair has reached its maximum length, it will enter the stage of loss and leave the head. If a woman has a growth stage duration of 10 years, then she can grow a braid to the floor, but this is rather rare.
The second reason is the section of the ends, brittle hair along the length due to damage. If you pull your hair, for example, every day with an iron, dye it, dry it with a hairdryer and do not care, then it will not grow long. The third reason is pathological hair loss, when the hair does not grow to its maximum length, because it enters the stage of hair loss prematurely. This may be due to depression (it slows down the growth rate), low estrogen, deficiency conditions (low hemoglobin, low iron, low vitamin D levels). If a woman wants to have longer hair, it is necessary to minimize damage to the structure (dye the hair with gentle dyes, do not use irons and curling irons, less often use a hairdryer, drying it with cold air) and actively take care of the structure. Lotions are also available to stimulate hair growth.
After hair has reached its maximum length, he will enter in the stage of loss
- And what are these drugs?
These are medicinal or cosmetic preparations for correcting hair loss. Lotions affect hair loss, thickness, growth rate, and sometimes an increase in the number of hairs on the head.
- That is, after all, there are some magic pills?
Each plus has its own minus: the stronger the drug, the greater the dependence on it. If you have a non-working follicle and we stimulate its work, then after stopping the use of the drug, these follicles will again enter the resting stage, which is manifested by increased prolapse.
- That is, these drugs must be constantly used.
If we are talking about genetic forms of hair loss, then yes, the drugs are used constantly or in courses. If we are talking, for example, about some kind of deficiency, then after its elimination, normal hair growth is maintained.
About gray hair and the wonders of pregnancy
- What should people do who have gray hair at the age of 25-30? Why is this happening?
The mechanism of pigment loss is not fully understood. It is very complex, includes many factors: in general, it is a failure in the synthesis of the pigment melanin. But this is not the problem they come to us with - hair coloring easily solves it. Gray hair is genetically programmed, aggravated by a number of factors (including stress), and there are no effective methods of struggle.
- Can I stop her?
Not yet. But this is not necessary, the hair can be dyed.
There was also a scandal recently around Kate Middleton, who is now expecting a baby. Tabloid reporters like the Daily Mail found gray hair in her photograph, and the public was divided: some said that she was such a fine fellow, that she did not dye her hair during pregnancy, while others said: "Well, I completely neglected myself." Does pregnant hair really change so much, right down to gray hair?
In pregnant women, on the contrary, hair improves. During pregnancy, the placenta is formed and estrogens increase significantly. From the 20th week, the hair improves and becomes the same as it was in adolescence. When childbirth occurs, estrogen levels drop, prolactin rises, and after two to three months the reckoning begins for a period of good hair condition: postpartum hair loss begins.
- This is fine?
It is physiological and normal if there are no factors that aggravate it: for example, a poor mother does not sleep, she has postpartum depression, a lack of iron, a malfunction of the thyroid gland. In this case, the loss is pathological. At the same time, the structure of the hair can change - the hair can become more wavy or, conversely, straight.
- Then everything comes back?
Not always.
- My curly friends and I have curls returned a year and a half after giving birth, but everyone was very worried. But please tell us why some people have curly hair, while others do not. Is it just genetics?
The structure of the hair is determined by the structure of the keratin protein, namely by the number of disulfide bonds in this protein. Keratin is a chain of amino acids, and the more disulfide bonds, the more coiled the keratin molecule. The number of these connections is genetically programmed. It is on working with them that straightening and perm are based: with the help of a special composition (for example, thioglycolic acid), disulfide bonds are first broken, a new form is created, and then new bonds are formed. To a large extent, curls are genetics, so Tsvetaeva's attempts to shave her head to become curly were unsuccessful.
About burdock oil and a hat
- Indeed, if you do not wear a hat in winter, the condition of your hair will deteriorate and it may even fall out?
No, because there is even such an ancient hair treatment procedure as cryomassage: this is a head massage with liquid nitrogen at low temperatures. Somehow it was noticed that the workers who wore ice on their backs began to grow wool in this zone. Therefore, the cold stimulates hair growth.
- But what about the blood vessels? After all, blood flow decreases.
On the contrary, there is cold training: spasm, and then expansion. In addition, the vessels of the scalp are not able to collapse, so there can be no persistent disturbances in blood flow in the scalp.
- And what about smokers? Smoking is said to affect vasoconstriction and oxygen.
Smoking harms hair in a different way - through toxins and exposure of the cell to free radicals.
- Do burdock oil and castor oil really help, as our grandmothers think?
They help in cases where the loss will go away on its own so soon. We recommend using oils on the skin extremely rarely, because burdock and castor oil have a comedogenic effect: they increase the viscosity of fat, which accumulates at the follicle mouth and forms plugs. This leads to inflammatory diseases of already oily skin, so it is better not to use burdock oil.
Workers who wore ice on their backs in this area wool began to grow
- And if they are applied not to the scalp, but to the hair?
Oils are applied to the hair because they stick together the hair scales and compensate for the lipid deficiency. But our hair loves exotic oils: orchid, macadamia, shea, argan, jojoba.
- Should they be bought neat and applied warm?
The easiest way is to warm up the oil and apply it along the length of the hair after washing, then wrap the head with a film and a hot towel for half an hour. If the oil is oily, it is better to wash it off with water. Now there are ready-made preparations based on oils that cannot be washed off.
- What do you think about the quality of our water? In any country in the world, hair after washing is completely different than in Moscow.
Yes, we have hard water, there are many salts, including iron. This water is unpleasant for the hair and leads to a loss of shine. But this is not such a serious problem: the water can be softened, for example, with citric acid, or filtered.
- Do children really need to be shaved baldly a year?
No. In any case, we only cut the dead shaft, and cutting hair cannot affect hair growth. In a year, the first natural change of hair occurs, when the hair is replaced with thicker ones. Often the mother sees that the child's hair begins to fall out, shaves it, does not see the hair falling out anymore and thinks that the haircut helped. In fact, this is just a transitional moment of hair maturation, which will pass by itself, regardless of whether we shave the child or not.
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