Powdery mildew on grain crops. Why powdery mildew appears on plants and how to deal with it Correct agricultural technology is an important condition in the fight against powdery mildew

Powdery mildew currant pathogen. Spheroteka, or powdery mildew on currants, is a fungal disease, the most common and destructive for the shrub. Because of it, up to 90% of the berry harvest is lost. Without treatment, the plant will inevitably die in a few years.

Consider in the article methods of dealing with this disease, folk ways and effective chemicals.

What you will learn from this material:

Powdery mildew on currants description

It is a widespread fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plant, shrub and tree species. It is also called linen or ashtray.

The infection is often transmitted by sucking pests - thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, especially aphids. Also, spores of the fungus can get into with watering, from infected specimens through the air, or be carried by a person upon contact with them.

The development of a fungal disease is facilitated by high humidity (60-85%), moderate air temperature (16-28 ° C), excess nitrogen and excessive planting density. In open ground, the disease appears from the end of May and develops until late autumn. The peak of the ash ash development falls on June-July.

Prevention of powdery mildew on currants

The fight against powdery mildew is carried out in a complex manner - in addition to the chemical treatment of shrubs, the following agrotechnical measures must be taken:

  • water the currant bushes only after the topsoil has dried;
  • remove and burn all plant residues in the fall;
  • observe crop rotation;
  • cultivate powdery mildew-resistant varieties and hybrids;
  • do not overfeed currant bushes with nitrogen fertilizers, especially during the flowering period;
  • do not forget to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which increase the resistance of shrubs to disease;
  • carry out spring sanitary pruning of shrubs;
  • carry out preventive treatment of shrubs with fungicides in early spring and after falling leaves.

Also, for preventive purposes, powdery mildew treatment of currant bushes is carried out chemical means- for example, three or four times pollination with sulfur or three times treatment, Bordeaux liquid or other preparations of a similar effect.

Powdery mildew of currant pathogen and methods of control

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

My friend with thirty years of experience as a florist says: powdery mildew is like candidiasis, only in flowers. True, garden and horticultural crops are also "successfully" infected with this disease. But if you catch yourself right away, the treatment will not be delayed.

Powdery mildew (according to scientific powdery mildew) is a fungal disease. At first it seems like only whitish dust on the leaves, which can be washed off or wiped off if desired. But over time, the "dust" will grow, turning into "felt".

The attack of powdery mildew on a plant occurs in this way:

  1. Appearing on the surface of the sheet (on the street this often happens in the first weeks of summer, in an apartment all year round), fungi tend to penetrate into its pulp. Feeding on plant juices, the mycelium grows.
  2. The mycelium thickens, and if the plant is not dealt with, the thickness of the plaque approaches 1.5 centimeters.
  3. Having captured the entire leaf, the mycelium "decides" that this is not enough, and begins to release spores. If it is warm (above 20 degrees) and sunny around, all neighboring leaves, branches and other plants will surely succumb to the attack. On the street, this process will last until the end of summer, indoors - at least all year round. Moreover, humidity (rain, watering, spraying) does not play a role.
  4. Further, the mycelium grows fruiting bodies, which outwardly look like brown or black dots. This is how she prepares for wintering - the leaves with "fruits" will fall off and safely stay until spring, and when the warmth comes, the wind will blow, and the mushrooms will fly to new plants.

Powdery mildew pathogens

They are called powdery mildews. Moreover, it is interesting that there are many of them in nature, and each is "responsible" for its own type of plant. Or even a subspecies - for example, powdery mildew will not jump from a petiolate oak to a decorative red one, since various types of fungi will host the trees.

Crops that are constantly affected by various fungi:

  • peaches,
  • gooseberry,
  • grape,
  • roses,
  • cereals,
  • pumpkin,
  • cucumbers,
  • beets (sugar).

As for indoor flowers, powdery mildew is most often found on violets (Saintpaulias).

How to deal with such a scourge

The first and foremost rule: do not postpone plant treatments until tomorrow. Powdery mildew spreads very quickly, so there is no time to waste.

Diseased shoots are removed from trees. Have indoor plants they collect all the top soil; whole colonies of pests often hide in it.

Also, any plant needs to be treated with a fungicide. If the infection is not serious, you can start with folk remedies, but if it has gone far, it is better to immediately buy something effective. But in any case, you need to spray the plant (especially indoor) so that it drips from the leaves.

Fungicides

Yes, these are chemicals that may not smell very pleasant (which is especially true for indoor flowers, which are better processed on open balcony). But these funds are the most powerful.

Look at your pharmacy for one of the following drugs:

  • Bayleton,
  • "But",
  • "Quadris",
  • "Speed",
  • Topsin,
  • "Topaz",
  • "Tilit",
  • "Tiovit Jet",
  • Fundazol,
  • Fundazim.

Important! After the first treatment, wait a week and carry out the second "sanitation", even if there are no more traces of powdery mildew on the leaves.

Biofungicides

These substances have a different plan: they are based on living bacteria that suppress the development of fungi.

Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. Therefore, they are allowed during flowering. fruit crops, as well as when the fruit ripens.

As for the drawback, it is still one: they are not as strong as conventional chemical fungicides. So after purchasing a biological product, tune in to the fact that you will need to carry out a series of treatments.

Qualitative biofungicides are:

  • "Alirin-B",
  • "Gamair",
  • "Planriz",
  • "Pseudobacterin-2",
  • Fitosporin-M.

Ethnoscience"

Such recipes are also not the strongest, but they are not scary to use on the same gooseberry, on which the fruits are already ripening, which you so want to treat your children or grandchildren.

  • Soap + soda. For 1 liter of water, 4 g of soda (soda ash) and soap are used. Treat diseased plants with a spray bottle once, and again after 7 days.
  • Ash tincture. 0.5 cups of ash (wood) pour a liter of boiling water. Let it brew for 2 days. Add 4 g of soap here (it is better to dilute it with water first). Spray the plants with this substance the same two times, but if necessary, you can also more often.
  • Garlic. 25 g of chopped garlic are soaked in 1 liter of water. Let the water stand for a day. After filtering with this solution, you can spray plants (even indoor flowers).
  • Serum. The one made from kefir or yogurt. This dairy product is diluted cold water, pouring 10 glasses of water into each glass of whey. It is with such a solution that diseased plants should be sprayed.
  • Potassium permanganate. Dissolve 2.5 g of this substance in 10 liters of water. Plants are processed every 5 days, 2 or 3 times.
  • Copper sulfate. This substance itself is a commercially available fungicide, but it is so old and tested for so long that many completely trust it and consider it almost a folk remedy. You need to use it for powdery mildew like this: 5 g of vitriol is diluted in a glass hot water... In another bowl, dilute the soap in a ratio of 1:10. Vitriol is injected into the soap in a thin stream (this amount is calculated for 50 liters of soap solution).

More recipes that can be applied even during the fruiting period of "patients", you will learn from this video:

But, of course, the most popular folk remedy for powdery mildew is soda. In this video, you will not only learn how an experienced gardener uses it, but also hear a real live feedback.

Of course, one should not expect that this is a magic wand, but it is not scary to apply soda to fruits that children can pluck tomorrow:

Prophylaxis

  • Do not let the tops of the vegetable gardens lie until spring, burn them in the fall.
  • In the beds, adhere to a crop rotation without planting related crops in one place for two years in a row.
  • Now there are a lot good varieties vegetables. Choose disease resistant hybrids.
  • If last year on your site you encountered powdery mildew, already at the beginning of summer you can arrange for preventive treatment of the vegetable garden (garden, flower bed) with the same fungicide (or, for starters, at least with soda). How to properly dilute the fungicide for such a case is written on the package.

What not to do if you notice powdery mildew

  • Do not prune the plant, health pruning weakens it (although this does not apply to removing affected branches).
  • You should not feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer, experienced gardeners assure that this only aggravates the development of powdery mildew.
  • Immediately remove the infected flower from healthy flowerpots of its kind. Arrange a temporary quarantine window sill.
  • Do not spray the plant to prevent water droplets from spreading the fungus to other leaves. Also, do not place it near an open window (after all, a breeze, even a light breeze, is another spread of the disease). If the plant is planted outdoors, try to postpone watering (or pour water exclusively at the root).

Powdery mildew It is a fairly common harmful disease of both open and closed cucumbers.

Powdery mildew causative agent on cucumbers:

cause two fungi from the class of Ehuascomycetes, the department Marsupial fungi - Erysiphe cichoracearum DC and Sphaerotheca fuliginea Poll.

Symptoms of powdery mildew on cucumbers:

true leaves are affected, less often cotyledons; on the leaf petioles and on the stems, a white powdery coating appears in the last stages of the disease. Initially, the disease manifests itself in the form of the appearance of small rounded spots, which soon merge, and the plaque occupies the entire surface of the leaf blade, which sometimes acquires a reddish color. If the disease enters the active stage, then the leaf blade of plants can deform and become concave, acquiring the shape of a bowl. In the future, the affected leaves dry out. Small fruits are formed on strongly oppressed plants.

The development cycle of powdery mildew on cucumbers:

the pathogen overwinters at the stage of cleistotetia on plant debris ah, but cucumber plants are affected by conidia during the growing season. Infection can enter greenhouses from open ground and vice versa. Failure to comply with crop rotation in open ground and a temporary hiatus between crops in closed, can also lead to contamination of cucumbers with powdery mildew. In addition, weeds such as comfrey, chicory, plantain, field thistle can serve as reserves of infection. Powdery mildew can have 15 generations during the growing season, because her incubation period is only 3 - 4 days.

Conditions for the development of powdery mildew on cucumbers:

the optimal conditions for the development of the disease on cucumber plants are temperatures from 16 to 20 ° C, high air humidity, and insufficient illumination. With fluctuations in temperature and humidity, the disease can acquire a pathological course of development. Watering cucumbers with cold water also contributes to infection, especially in hot and dry weather, when the turgor in plants decreases, and the pathogen can penetrate through the integumentary tissue.

Measures to combat powdery mildew on cucumbers:

growing resistant hybrids of F1 cucumber - Katyusha, Kumir, Zodiac 499, Talisman, Pasamonte, Pasadeno, Offix and Octopus (the last four hybrids were created by our partners - Syngenta's company), etc., can significantly facilitate protective measures and achieve the desired harvest. Removing plant residues from the field, weed control and spatial isolation of cucumber crops are the main methods of controlling powdery mildew. On personal plots and in small greenhouses, you can use folk method fight against infection: spraying cucumber plants with whey or skim milk, which are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 (1 part milk whey or skim milk and 10 parts water). On an industrial scale, the cultivation of cucumbers requires the use of fungicides. For the prevention of powdery mildew, both outdoors and indoors, cucumber plants are sprayed with a fungicide KVADRIS ... At the first signs of the disease, fungicides are used.

Powdery mildew is a rapidly spreading fungal disease of plants. Initially, a white powdery coating appears on the leaves, similar to flour or powder. It can be easily wiped off with your finger and even mistaken for ordinary dust. But it was not there! Before you have time to look back, this infection will reappear, and even in greater numbers, capturing more and more new areas of habitation. Not only the leaves become white, but also the stems, peduncles. Gradually, old leaves turn yellow and lose their turgor. New ones grow ugly and twisted. If you do not take measures to cure powdery mildew, the plant will die.


It looks like this with an increase in powdery mildew
Ulcers at the site of mycelium formation

Powdery mildew disease: where does it come from?

  • outside is cool (15.5-26.5 ° C), damp (humidity 60-80%), cloudy (for example, during the rainy season). The weather conditions have a particularly great influence on outdoor and balcony plants; when grown in rooms, they are not so noticeable;
  • there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil;
  • vegetable plantings are thickened;
  • irrigation regime is not observed. For example, a plant is often watered without waiting for the top layer of the earth to dry out. Or, conversely, they regularly dry out the earthen lump, and later fill it in. All this leads to impaired immunity and, as a result, the appearance of powdery mildew.

In addition to these external conditions, already "awakened" spores can fall on flowers:

  • by air (from infected trees or plants);
  • through irrigation water (if spores got there);
  • through your hands (if you touched an infected plant, and then touched a healthy one).

Powdery mildew is capable of completely destroying a plant in a short time.

Correct agricultural technology is an important condition in the fight against powdery mildew

The fight against powdery mildew is an integrated approach. Firstly, it is necessary to put in order the agricultural technology of growing the affected plant. This means:

  • watering only after the top layer of the soil has dried;
  • during the fight against powdery mildew - completely abandon spraying;
  • if possible, take the affected specimen to a brighter, sunny place until the moment of cure from powdery mildew;
  • thin out thickened plantings, tear off old leaves that touch the ground;
  • for the period of remission - less nitrogen fertilizers, more phosphorus-potassium (in case of illness - no fertilizers at all).

All care errors must be corrected without fail, otherwise powdery mildew will appear regularly. Now let's talk about direct treatment.

How to deal with powdery mildew: medicinal sprays and watering

To get rid of powdery mildew, do the following:

  1. Tear off affected (yellow, devoid of turgor) leaves and all peduncles. If powdery mildew appears on roses, petunias, chrysanthemums and similar bushy plants, it is advisable to carry out a cardinal pruning. The more damaged branches are destroyed, the greater the chances of healing;
  2. replace the top layer of soil in a container, pot or under a plant in a flower bed - whole colonies of mushroom mycelium are hiding there;
  3. to carry out therapeutic spraying and watering the plant with one of the medicinal preparations. When spraying, you need to strive so that all leaves and shoots are abundantly moistened. The plant should pour like after a spring shower. There are more effective method: Pour the treatment solution into a basin and dip the bush there. It is abundantly wetted with solution and soil, by spraying from a spray bottle or watering. The walls of pots, pallets are also processed.

Powdery mildew: folk remedies

Let's make a reservation right away: folk remedies from powdery mildew are effective as a prophylaxis or at the initial stages of the spread of the disease. If the destructive process was launched a long time ago, more than 5-7 days ago, it is already useless to fight in this way. It may be possible to stop the development of the disease, but not completely eliminate it.

The most famous and effective folk remedies for powdery mildew are prepared as follows:

1. From soda ash and soap

25 g of soda ash is dissolved in 5 liters of hot water, 5 g are added liquid soap... The plants and the topsoil are sprayed with a chilled solution 2-3 times at weekly intervals.


A protective drug against powdery mildew is prepared from soda ash and liquid soap (best household)

2. From baking soda and soap

Dissolve 1 tbsp in 4 liters of water. l. baking soda and 1/2 tsp. liquid soap. Spraying is performed 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

3. A solution of potassium permanganate

2.5 g of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 liters of water, used 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days.

4. Whey solution

The serum is diluted with water 1:10. The resulting solution forms a film on the leaves and stems, which makes it difficult for the mycelium to breathe. At the same time, the plant itself receives additional nutrition with useful substances and improves its health, which affects its improvement. appearance... Treatment with a whey solution is carried out in dry weather, at least 3 times, with an interval of 3 days.

5. Horsetail decoction

100 g of horsetail (fresh) is poured into 1 liter of water, kept for a day. Put on fire and boil for 1-2 hours. Filter, cool, dilute with water at a concentration of 1: 5 and spray the bushes. The concentrate can be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than a week. Horsetail spraying can be done regularly to prevent powdery mildew in the spring and summer. In the fight against an already existing disease (in the initial stage), 3-4 times spraying is effective with a frequency of once every 5 days.

6. Copper soap solution

This remedy for powdery mildew is distinguished by a high degree of effectiveness, due to the inclusion in the composition of a well-known fungicidal preparation - copper sulfate. In a glass (250 ml) of hot water, dissolve 5 g of copper sulfate. Separately, 50 g of soap are dissolved in 5 liters of warm water. After that, the solution with vitriol is carefully poured into the soap solution, in a thin stream and with constant stirring. The resulting emulsion is sprayed on plants 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

7. Mustard solution

1-2 tablespoons are mixed into 10 liters of hot water. dry mustard. The cooled solution is good for both spraying and watering.

8. Ash + soap

In 10 liters of heated (30-40 ° C) water, 1 kg of ash is stirred. The solution is insisted, stirring regularly, for about 3-7 days. Then the liquid component (without ash suspension) is poured into a clean bucket, a little liquid soap is added, poured into a spray bottle and processed. Plants are sprayed every day or every other day 3 times. Add 10 liters of water to a bucket with ash particles that have sunk to the bottom, stir and use it for irrigation.

9. Infusion of rotten manure (better than cow)

The rotted manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1: 3, insisted for 3 days. Then the concentrate is diluted in half with water and the bushes are sprayed.

10. Infusion of garlic

25 g of garlic (chopped) are poured over 1 liter of water, kept for 1 day, filtered and sprayed on the collection.

Powdery mildew: chemical treatment

If powdery mildew has appeared on your flowers, the fight against it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop the harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying is carried out 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the selected drug).


Powdery mildew chemicals work quickly and effectively

The most effective preparations for powdery mildew:

  • Fundazol;
  • Topaz;
  • Acrobat MC;
  • Previkur;
  • Speed;
  • Vitaros;
  • Amistar extra.

A well-known fungicidal preparation is phytosporin, the active ingredient of which is a concentrate from bacteria Bacillus subtilis in powder from chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a remedy, it is practically useless against the existing powdery mildew. However, as a prophylactic agent, it will work flawlessly.

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