How to properly fold the stove in a country house. How to make a brick oven. The main advantages of a brick oven

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for the house were its obligatory attribute and the only way of heating. Professional stove-makers were in demand and respected. To date, there are many new means for space heating, which operate from different energy sources, ranging from solid fuel ending with electricity. However, good stove-setters remain in demand and the online request for “brick ovens for home drawings with orders” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for baths, for giving, or simply because of the remoteness of housing, which is why there is no alternative. Different types ovens can perform a heating function, on some models you can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and prefabricated. Some plan before building a house, while others need to fit into an existing room. Furnaces are ordered or made with their own hands in order to save money, others are erected to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be built from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with the existing SNiP. On the Internet, you can find any drawings with orders, but you need to understand that it will not be so easy to build a stove for a house with your own hands.

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, have a greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are bricks still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove “breathes”.

This means that when the furnace is heated, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, the moisture reabsorbs. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. In the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators in heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, air humidity should be optimal for health. The furnace for the house provides optimum humidity of air, at a temperature of warming up about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of economy, than modern systems, with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the heat loss of the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting the size of the furnace surface

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the highest heat transfer. This factor determines when choosing a place.

Different models have different forms:

Rectangular;
In the shape of the letter T;
With a bench or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space separator.

For a small house area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To warm up the entire furnace, a lot of fuel is needed, while the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove, relative to the living rooms, is also important, and the criterion is the insulation of the whole house.

Oven dimensions table, taking into account the area of the room

The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classical scheme

The furnace consists of 3 main parts. Furnace body, foundation and chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

Foundations - foundation;
waterproofing material;
Shantsy. They are holes, they make you create heating in the lower part of the room. They perform the function of "legs" in the design;
Blew;
The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
Door for blower;
grate grate;
Kindling door;
Furnace part;
Arch of the furnace part;
“Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called a hail);
door for cleaning;
Dusnik pass;
Dusnik;
Valves regulating the direction of travel;
Convector channel;
A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating, so that the furnace does not cool down.
Air outlet door;
flue hole;
Overlapping (upper part of the furnace);
Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
overlap;
Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the furnace is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (cast iron is best, but it is very expensive, ordinary roofing metal will do), and covered with felt on top. Felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after that they begin laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take on all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words"so that the heat does not go into the ground."

masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique hatching from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a clay mixture with sand is used (sometimes with the addition of fireclay).

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the furnaces. Removal of a metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked, knocking to the floor.

Unlike a cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries rather than sets. Therefore, under the constant action of moisture (especially in winter period), the solution soaks. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made of a rounded appearance. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (bottom transition). It is much easier to clean soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the solution is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly, in the event of a soot fire, and thereby gives less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for rain to drain. From the height of the pipe, the draft in the furnace will hang.

Place for the stove in the house

Its effective operation will depend on the installation location of the furnace. The best location will be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the outlet, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is needed for correct operation and full cleaning options.
The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
The location must be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the furnace.
In front of the door of the furnace part, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (sheet of metal or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for building a furnace

Brick

There are sources on the Internet claiming that brick for furnaces and refractory are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of an ordinary single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm., And the standard stove has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes there are 230 by 114 by 65 mm. In the construction of the furnace, a special high-quality brick of brand 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying furnace channels in the furnace part. It withstands high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not happen. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It does not make sense to build the entire body of the furnace from it, since it is very expensive and has poor strength.

In order to distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality fireclay, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be loud and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of the material is radical. The brick is broken in half and looked at the break. Qualitative fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in furnace construction. It is that de red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Quarry sand of medium fraction is used as sand in a cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to sift out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn out from heating, due to which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

For laying the furnace, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

cement;
Lime;
clays;
Fireclay.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap. Clay can be easily found on almost any land, after cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. Such a mixture dries out under the action of high temperature, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The stove masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But it is impossible to lay the foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in furnace parts. Such a solution withstands the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but the fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for masonry chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and provide good draft for the firebox.

Brick oven projects examples

Furnace for giving

Medium sizes country house are about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove, 2 by 3 meters in size and with a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the whole body is built from ceramic red.

The figure shows the project of the furnace in the context

Such a simple option can easily be made of bricks with their own hands by every beginner, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with ordering, ordinal instruction

Despite the small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm., while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your experience.

For such a furnace, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Material Quantity:

You will need about 210 pieces of ordinary brick, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cu. m. One grate, door for furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick battle.

Russian oven

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. On such an oven you can cook food and there is a stove bench in its design. Laying and erection schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is the design feature, due to which it heats only the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What does it consist of:

A) the ward part;
B) niche;
B) six;
D) bugle;
D) stuffy part;
E) shield;
G) valve;
H) chimney pipe;
I) Repainting the crucible.

Large, small and medium-sized furnaces are built according to their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Brick red about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. From steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar, measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on lime mortar with the addition of cement. There is a formation of the ward part;

Row number 2 to number 4 is laid out well. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a lock is being erected for the vault;

Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the stove;

Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made from a special brick;

Row No. 13 the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Row No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 set the vaults of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the walls of the furnace;

Row No. 19 of the wall of the vault;

Row No. 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the hearth;

Row No. 21 align the walls;

Row No. 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the pre-pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is laid in 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying furnaces, you should try to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In the proposed video you can see the order of the heating furnace:

Since ancient times, it so happened that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to bed. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, not without reason in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who needed comfort and warmth most of all. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to a heating and decorative function, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing fragrant and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the oven is a whole science that has been known for more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among your friends, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.

We decide on the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes real estate owners have with their home, it is worth considering the options that satisfy all desires. Do not forget about the dimensions of various furnaces and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only your own forces and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian oven

Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can be placed in the center of the room.
The lounger is provided for rest; Depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. Continuous air supply for better burning fuel is provided by the blower. The hearth and the stump are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The undercoat and the underplate were used to store kitchen utensils, tongs, pokers. Pechurki are recesses of small diameter located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried out very quickly in them.
Those who wish to lay down a Russian stove in the house will have to provide for it a place of at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half in length. A design with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional color should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for space heating and cooking, is Swedish.
She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to cook food on two burners of a cast iron stove at the same time.
There is also an oven, which the housewives will appreciate. The Swede has many modifications, they are named after the developers (a stove designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choose suitable option won't be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch

It will serve only for heating the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. in number design features includes a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) located firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman warms up evenly from the bottom up.
Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of 1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, this is more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of the issue of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive, to improve appearance it is often tiled.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to attend to the search for a project brick wall suitable in all respects, consider its location, take into account all the requirements for fire safety. You will need to pick up tools, purchase the right material and invite assistants.

The draft scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted resources on the Web. For those who wish, detailed courses are even filmed on video.

Of the tools you will need:

a mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
shovel;
grinder (you have to cut a brick);
a pickaxe hammer will help chop a solid brick into small pieces and hew them to the desired shape and size;
stitching for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the seams between the bricks a neat and aesthetic look. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then use this device won't have to. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;

nozzle-mixer on the perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can be evenly mixed only using a power tool;
tape measure is better to take with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
a rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
the building level checks whether the masonry has “fallen” relative to the horizontal;
the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops should be kept ready. It is better to clean the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the chosen furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: a cast-iron stove, the number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

Sand must fall under the following characteristics: clean, fine, uniform. This result can be achieved by sifting.
Clay is skinny, normal and oily. The proportions of the preparation of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise choosing the "golden mean", that is, clay of a normal degree of fat content.

Brick is produced in four main types.

Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Lay the foundation, erect a load-bearing wall, build Vacation home- all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
Refractory brick type used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) bricks the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
- carbon steel is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
- lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
- the quartz look, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But for walls and vaults of furnaces it can be used;
- alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional ones. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the furnace, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for the installation of a brick oven

The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will arise in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing - mandatory requirement to the base of the oven.

How to lay a Russian brick oven

What else needs to be considered before starting work? A classic Russian stove will require about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of mortar.
As for the layer of the applied mixture, in this case the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to grasp faster and stronger.
According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the vault of the furnace should go at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a nut cuts off sparks from the crucible on the pipes and traps soot.

Orders have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Drawing of a brick oven

The base of the furnace must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing material is quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, as they are not afraid of moisture.
In order for the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows to be of high quality, in the corners starting row lay three bricks ¾ in size. That is, a triangle is formed from these incomplete bricks: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made on a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
Second row serves as the initial for laying out the guard.
Since masonry involves the installation of bricks apart, in order to avoid the coincidence of the seams, third row will require the presence of four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
When laying fourth row you need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming the entrance to the under-furnace, should have beveled corners. Thus, support for the arch will be obtained. In order for the stove to turn out to be even, a wooden formwork is built in its opening.

When the arch is completed, you can return to laying fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten off with a hammer with a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that, after completion of work, it can be easily removed through the entrance to the underfurnace. If you can’t give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with neatly made bevels.
Seventh row in terms of execution technique it resembles the first one, for the eighth solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging a platform for a cold stove.
Ninth row- as the first, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
Eleventh row must completely cover the sandy backfill and the stove itself.
Thirteenth row involves the start of work on laying the walls of the hearth and furnace. A strip of metal passes between them, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires that pre-chip and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the vault of the furnace. The crucible-furnace itself is laid out similarly to a guardianship.
The completed arch of the crucible is an occasion to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports is fixed on the side of the hearth window. The arch, of which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the crucible, and twenty second forms an additional layer.
twenty third row should strengthen the shield walls and the retube. In the last element, a stuffing box is fastened, it is needed to connect a samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter be formed next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). Next next it is possible to completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that on the right side it is supposed to leave a hole in it, blocked by a valve.
From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, cutting is carried out in order to let the bricks in a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
After the masonry dries, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, make a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

the design has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
there is no grate;
structural elements:
a firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the furnace;
chimney, consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three lowering and three lifting channels;
cleaning door;
blew.

You will need to purchase:

refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
well bending wire;
a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
masonry glue;
firebox door, blower, valve;
a standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Scheme of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Without forgetting the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
In the third row begin to form an ash chamber, the door is installed later.

Fourth row perform in order to build up an array of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, a metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- Height increase.
Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided for by the project, then ninth and tenth row are shifting back. At the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which a cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the foundation of the chimney. To facilitate the design, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
V eleventh row a valve is being installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
V fourteenth row the firebox is covered from above, a hole is formed along the back wall for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is done in the next row.
V two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without bonding it with mortar.
Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the solution, it will grab better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to drown the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The furnace does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly out into the chimney.
Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
The best option is a fuel that can smolder for a long time.
It is worth adding to the issue of fire safety that the Dutch oven cannot be heated too much. When overheated, it will emit carbon monoxide. The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
For those who are laying stoves for the first time, it is worth doing a test laying in a “dry” way. That is, to perform all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need outside help.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be submitted the first time. A careful study of the schemes, trial masonry without the use of mortar, the advice of experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Work and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.

How to make a brick oven with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step by step description, helpful tips.

Classification by intended use

Heating. Such furnaces are used only for space heating as the only or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on the design

Direct-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the blower, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Cons of once-through furnaces:

Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which holds heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Channel.

This type of furnace is an advanced direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms up the room. When installing channel furnaces, one should take into account the linear dependence of the efficiency on the length and number of channels.

Bell-type.

Such stoves are used to retain heat in the room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. Cooling down, the air currents become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it exits through the hood.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

They provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification according to material

brick

Pros:

Autonomy. That is, once "refueling" the oven, you can not worry about it for a long time.
Heat retention. Brick buildings do not conduct heat well, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

They warm up for a long time.

Cast iron

Pros:

Easy to install, no foundation required.
Not fire hazardous.
Compact.
Heat up quickly.
Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
No additional cladding required.
There are automatic cast iron stoves which independently regulate the temperature.
High efficiency.
Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
Low price.

Minuses:

They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Consider preparation:

Foundation. If the furnace is calculated large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, then this is not necessary.
Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
Chimney. In no case should the chimney be adjacent to the beams on the ceiling. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
Pipe. The protrusion of the pipe must necessarily be half a meter above the roof, but no further than one and a half.
Furnace location. The place should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

It is better to position the stove so that it heats as much as possible. more premises. For example, if the house has several neighboring rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them so that it heats everything.
If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not back to back.

Tools and materials

Materials:

Clay (for making masonry mortar).
Sand.
Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
Pipe.
Gravel.
Tree.
Cement.
Ruberoid.
Grate grate.
Angle steel.
Roofing steel.
Wire.
Nails.
Steam valve.
Oven.
Doors (for the cooking chamber, blower, furnace).
Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

Furnace hammer.
Ruler.
Master OK.
Pick.
Square.
Plumb.
Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
It keeps heat for a very long time, in some cases - two days.
The firebox surrounds the fire from all sides and reduces the fire hazard level of the structure.

Minuses:

Big size.
Weighs a lot.
Long warm up.
After the break, a daily heating is required.
It has the most complex structure of all possible types ovens.

The Russian stove is suitable as a permanent source of heat, it will completely replace and even surpass the stove, it can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation should be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

simple masonry
It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
Heats up quickly.
Weighs relatively little.
Allows cooking.
It does not need to be heated regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

Cools down quickly.
Low efficiency.

It turns out that the “Dutch” stove is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and occasional use.

Plain rectangular.

Pros:

Doesn't take up much space.
Simple construction.
Low prices for material and fuel.

Minuses:

Average efficiency.
Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A conventional rectangular oven is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The oven is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

Allows cooking.
High efficiency.
Quick warm up.
Saves fuel.
Relatively small size.
Exists modern options with oven hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

A booster is required.
It has a difficult masonry for a beginner.

The Swede stove is suitable as the main source of heat in the room, can completely replace the stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

Very low fire hazard.
Aesthetic.
High efficiency.
Heat the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for decorating a house and for targeted use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's draw the drawings first. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the composition of the furnace.

Foundation.
Frame.
Chimney.

The furnace consists of the following levels:

Foundation
Butovaya masonry.
Bookmark depth.
Waterproofing.
Furnace array.

Array Composition:

Six.
Undercoat.
Underbay.
Dushnik.
Cover.
Gate valve.
Half door.

Pipe Composition:

Overlap.
Cutting.
Insulation.
Otter.
head.
Metal cap.
Pipe stand.
A metal sheet.
Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed scheme for laying a brick oven.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's consider how to implement it using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

Designed for foundation waterproofing. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. During laying, use a cement-sand mortar.
The second row is the basis for the walls of the care zone.
The third row is the walls of the guardianship (3/4 brick).
The fourth row is a support support.
The fifth row is located at the corners in order to create an arch support. Also use this row for laying out the oven.
The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary vault of guardianship.
A row for the arch begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The central brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be laid as close as possible to each other, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
The walls of the mantle are made of bricks from this row.
The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
The final row for guardianship. Between the bricks fill the gaps with sand, for the sake of insulation.
Strengthening the overlap of the guardianship with the addition of beveled bricks.
The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shet's masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
The bricks of this row will become the hearth and the cooking chamber. Additional installation of the mouth arc.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
Fold up the supports for the arch of the cooking chamber.
It is made up of refractory bricks with a vault.
Six walls.
Six walls. Fill gaps with sand.
Masonry furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
Cover end. Installing a showerhead.
Channels of the samovar and overtubes.
The same channels.
Additional channel for the view.
The same channels.
Half door installation.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Connection of a pipe and a ventilator.
Valve installation.
Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a do-it-yourself oven: a description of the process.

Lay the foundation of.
Lay the first row (along the cord).
Lay the next rows with a level.
Control the corners with body kits.
From rows 1 to 11, use a cement-sand mortar, then a clay-sand mortar.
The output of the pipe is carried out at the end of all work.

How to build a do-it-yourself brick oven video:

Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
Choose a drawing that suits you.
Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is traditional Russian).
When transporting refractory bricks, be careful as they are very fragile.
The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the places that need to be thoroughly heated.
Don't forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

The laying of any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!

One of the signs of the convenience of living in a private cottage is a consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the building may be, it can only be truly cozy warm house. One of the best solutions is to organize heating with a brick stove for the house. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick ovens to harmonize with any environment, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

With proper design and installation, a brick oven can also be used in wooden houses Source taldomstroi.ru

What are brick ovens for houses

Brick ovens intended for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating for individual rooms or the entire house;
Cooking. The design is designed in such a way that the main heat flow goes up - to the hob. Such an oven is heated only during cooking;
Heating and cooking. In fact, this is a heating stove with a hob. Since the functional purpose of such an oven is mixed, it is not always comfortable to cook food on it in the summer.

Whatever type of oven it is, some general qualities must be present in any case:

the oven should warm up well;
the design of the chimney must provide good draft;
high level of general fire safety;
the stove should harmoniously fit into the overall environment, creating a feeling of comfort.

Based on the shape of the product, brick kilns are divided into square, round, angular, T-shaped, rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the wall thickness of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made thick-walled, thin-walled and combined.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the way they are laid. Source axon-quick.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

There are several reasons why a brick oven for a house is more preferable than products made from other materials:

The design thought over to trifles perfectly plays a role of the accumulator of heat. It is this feature that allows you to heat a brick oven much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood in metal stoves must be laid at intervals of 5-6 hours;
Due to the high accumulation of heat, a brick oven is highly economical and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer, almost complete decomposition of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and water base. Excess heat heats the masonry, which in turn heats the premises;
There is no incandescent effect of the outer parts, so the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel structures.

Outside, the bricks are hot, but not red-hot, unlike iron parts. Source minsknews.by

It is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when cooled, it is absorbed back. This process is usually called the oven breathing and thanks to it the level of humidity of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating appliances require the installation of an additional humidifier, without it the air dries up.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its drawbacks:

The long cooling of brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this medal also has a downside - no less long warming up. Therefore, when kindling the stove in a cold room of a large area, the temperature increase in the house will occur slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to acquire a convector.
Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is built at the same time as the house. The oven must function without interruption, so special knowledge and experience is needed to design and build it. Even despite the free access to the drawings with the orders of brick ovens for the home, one cannot do without a specialist in this matter, and good furnace masters are in short supply.

For high-quality laying of furnaces, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience Source fasaddomstroy.ru

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing fireplaces and stoves. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Which brick to choose for the oven

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature effects. Construction material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. It is from the characteristics of the brick from which the furnace will be made that the total period of its operation depends.

Bricks are usually marked. One of the main indicators is the density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will occur. To build a furnace, bricks are needed, the marking of which indicates the strength grade M150-250, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. Too high a strength grade may indicate the presence in the composition of the brick of substances that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next marking indicator is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. It plays an important role in the choice of products used for laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking bricks for furnaces in comparison with other types of material Source iqlevsha.ru

Frost resistance implies the ability of the product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Facing hollow ones are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, a solid red brick is needed. Plastic molding is preferred. These products withstand temperature changes and do not crack even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

silicate and pressed bricks;
bricks made using the slip casting method;
unfired cheeses.

The maximum exposure of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 °C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or apply them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

For the firebox, the Sh8 brand is suitable (such bricks have a straw- yellow and dark patches). It is recommended to use fireclay products (Ш 22-Ш45) for the vault of the furnace. The only exception is bath stoves, where, due to high humidity, such a brick is contraindicated.

Refractory bricks of Sh8 grade are straw-yellow in color Source pcentr.by

How to determine the optimal location of the furnace

It is necessary to determine the place in the house for the furnace according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

area of a residential building;
how many rooms should be heated;
what is the oven for and what kind;
how will the gases be removed during combustion;
the location of the furnace must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional furnace or water heating system equipment will be required.

In order to heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen, a heating and cooking stove is used. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are heated by a heat-releasing wall.

When building a stone house, you can immediately think over the layout of the chimneys in the walls, which will increase the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe house and ensure optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of the rooms, it is necessary to think over the place of its most successful placement so that the surfaces that transfer heat from the stove allow for a uniform and maximum distribution of heat.

Options for the location of the furnace in the house Source pechnoy.guru

Typically, a hallway or kitchen serves as a place to place the firebox. If the stove is well planned, it is almost invisible in the house. It does not clutter up the living space and is in perfect harmony with all interior elements. For example, a combination is often used. In one room there is one side of the building - a stove, and in the adjacent room, its second part - a fireplace. General chimney system.

A stove for a brick house cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. Also, one should not forget that the oven needs regular maintenance, which means that convenient approaches must be carefully considered.

Foundation for the furnace

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

The foundations for the furnace are divided into the following types:
reinforced concrete;
pile;
pile-screw;
columnar;
made from blocks.

It is important! Whatever type the foundation belongs to, it must be created separately from the foundation of the house (except for a monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

Gravel-sandy soil type requires the preparation of a shallow base;
With clay or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone pillow;

Differences between arranging the foundation for a brick and iron stove Source kaksdelatbanyu.ru

In the permafrost zone, a pile-screw base is used;
Dry rocky soils make it possible to get by with either the minimum thickness of the base or not use it at all;
The oven must not be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick oven:

Considering the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a foundation pit is being prepared.

The bottom is rammed with horizontal alignment. Crushed stone, broken brick and rubble stone are poured in an even layer. Rammer again.

A solution is being prepared (proportion 1:3). The embankment is filled with a solution;

Three options follow:

use a combination of crushed stone and cement;
apply a frame of reinforcement, followed by pouring it with concrete;
a concrete reinforced slab is poured, on which a foundation is made of brick and pouring from concrete and rubble.

Move on to the next steps after all the used solution has dried.

Laying three-layer waterproofing.
Next, bricks are laid in rows.

Bricks stored in the open air cannot be used in construction. Due to repeated freezing and getting wet, they become brittle, which will reduce the operational life of the furnace.

Video description

Visually about some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a furnace, see the video:

To fill the space between the furnace foundation and the foundation of the house, ordinary river sand is used.

The procedure for laying the furnace

How to properly build a stove in a house depends on the materials used and the design chosen, but the main stages of work are always the same:

The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its underfloor part;
Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;
Laying the flame part;
As soon as several rows are laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;
The firebox door is installed. A combustion chamber is formed;
A hob is laid on top of the combustion chamber;
Continuation of masonry with the gradual design of the gas convector system;
When the body of the stove is formed, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic folding doors are installed.

When choosing the material for the door for the stove, consider the following points:

cast-iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if they like to admire the play of flame in the house;

Through the glass you can clearly see how the fire burns in the furnace Source idei-landshafta.ru

completely cast-iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. Doors made of steel or glass are suitable for a wood-burning stove;
to avoid burns and protect children or pets from a dangerous environment, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required.

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of laying brick ovens, according to the given scheme.

Rules for the operation of a brick oven

In order for the furnace to serve for a long time, certain operating rules must be observed:

The invariability of the characteristics of the stove is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during the combustion of the fuel.
The stove must be fired correctly. Heat loss with an open blower reaches 15‑20%. If, during combustion, the door of the furnace compartment is open, all 40% will come out into the open air.
For the furnace, be sure to use dry firewood, harvested in advance. When using damp, less heat is released and due to the formation of caustic condensate, brick walls are destroyed.
Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately the same logs - from 8 to 10 cm thick.

Video description

Clearly about the errors in the installation and operation of brick ovens, see the video:

The laying of firewood should be done with an empty space between them of 10 mm. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with an intersection. The best option filling the firebox - 2/3. The gap between the laying of firewood and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.
To ignite the fuel, ordinary paper, a torch, etc. are used. Combustible substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone should not be used.
As soon as the stove is melted, the view is covered a little, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.
The reference point when adjusting the draft during kindling is the color of the fire. The yellow color of the flame is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes immediately into the chimney. Red flame - there is little air, the fuel burns partially with the release of harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as repair work, it is best to organize in the summer, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically evaluate the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad firewood or other reasons, pollution occurs much faster and additional cleaning is required. With the accumulation of soot, at best, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is reduced, and at worst, all the smoke and carbon monoxide can go into the room.

Video description

For cleaning a brick oven, see the following video:

The ash chamber and grate cleaning should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a valve, a view and a blower door serve to adjust the draft of the stove and its operating mode. It is necessary to constantly monitor their functionality and integrity. As soon as problems arise or individual parts wear out, the issue must be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If the house has a stove, then there is heat and home comfort. But regardless of the chosen design of the brick oven, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

The house will cost less than installing a stone stove with your own hands, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If there is no desire to build a brick stove or no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. However, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance, the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. The preparatory stage of construction provides for the construction of the foundation.

The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a furnace is erected using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should be used to build brick ovens

Figure 1. Ordering a brick oven.

You can prepare a mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have on hand building level for even masonry, since each row must have flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the furnace for masonry, it is worth highlighting:

sand;
clay;
red solid brick;
ruberoid;
grate grate;
pipe;
tree;
gravel;
cement.

Before laying the oven, a carefully designed scheme for building a brick oven should be prepared, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used for this. Usually clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. The sequence of actions when laying bricks: A - spoon row; B - tychkovy row.

Clay must be softened before using it. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. In the process of preparing the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand with clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace, its strength. If you immediately prepare a large volume of solution, then in the absence of the need to use it, it loses its beneficial features, That's why masonry mortar prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality laying of the furnace, it is necessary to make a preliminary layout of the bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. Carrying out all work should be based on referring to the scheme of the developed design of the furnace. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully cover each seam.

Back to index

How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed furnace according to the corresponding finished drawing is laid out on a separately erected foundation, as noted above. The principle of the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation begins to be poured with the preparation of the foundation pit below the depth at which soil freezing begins, it can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken brick or stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm high, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. For creating removable formwork using specially prepared boards, hammered together. The formwork must be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. The level of quality of concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar, as well as roofing material. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the ground should be covered with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.

Back to index

How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney masonry.

Tips for laying a brick oven.

The principle of laying the furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

Foundation plate device.
Heating device.
Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the ordering scheme.
Grate grate device.
Fitting bricks.
Furnace door device.

Among the recommendations for laying the stove in the house, a number of basic ones can be distinguished. For example, a grate should be mounted in the oven without it resting against the inner walls of the oven, otherwise, when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the furnace must be arranged with waterproofing. The base of the foundation should protrude at least 10 cm. The under-furnace is usually a certain space on the front outer wall of the furnace, equipped with a hole for storing inventory.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully fit them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the rear wall of the furnace. When covering the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed at the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left bar is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers with asbestos cord at all points of contact. The furnace door is fixed with three layers of galvanized wire. The use of high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.

Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help to check the quality of laying brick corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which they use the building level.