Storm sewer in a private house. Storm sewer in a private house: device, installation, rules How to properly build a storm sewer in a cooperative

The question of what a storm sewer is is no longer something mysterious and incomprehensible. The media constantly discusses topics on the correct operation of this type of sewerage, especially when the cities are flooded with rain. This system is specially designed to drain rain and melt water. And in private housing construction today it is used everywhere. Out-of-town developers invest a lot of money in storm water drainage to protect their site from flooding.

The storm sewer device is simple. This is a network of canals, tunnels or pipes that drain rain and melt water from the foundation of the house and from the territory of the site. The withdrawal is organized outside the site into natural reservoirs, ditches or ravines. Sometimes tanks are installed in the ground, where water is simply collected, and then pumped further. In this case, the sewer network is a gravity system. Therefore, it is very important to correctly set the angle of inclination of pipes or channels from the house towards the outlet outside the territory. By the way, the tilt angle varies between 3-7 degrees.

Storm system device

Types of storm sewers

There are two types of rainstorms:

An example of open and closed view storm sewer.

1. Open type. These are dug ditches in which concrete or plastic trays are laid. From above, the tray system is closed with metal or plastic gratings. Before the appearance of trays, dug ditches (trenches) were concreted by hand, or simply covered with rubble or gravel.
2. Closed. It is an underground pipe network. Today, ordinary plastic sewer pipes are used, which are connected to each other in a bell-shaped manner.

Closed (underground) storm sewer scheme

We must pay tribute that both varieties are used today in suburban areas in equal proportions. At the same time, storm sewer trays (concrete or plastic) are easier to install. The latter are easier, which means that it is easier to work with them, which is why they are so popular and in demand. We also recommend that you read the article about for a private house, how it works, read on our website.

Installation of stormwater

The entire installation process must be divided into three main stages:

1. Create a diagram and calculate the network traffic.
2. Carry out preparatory work.
3. The installation itself is carried out directly.

Scheme and calculation

First of all, a schema is created. The stormwater system should be installed where rain and melt water collects in large quantities. And these are the slopes of the roofs, under which the drain is installed. It is under the vertical pipe risers drainage system and it is necessary to mount the drainage receiving elements. That is, these will be the starting points for the beginning of the circuit. It turns out that how many risers are at the drain, so many sewer branches will have to be installed.

The opposite extreme point is a drainage well. It is installed in the lowest place of the suburban area. Therefore, this place must be found and marked in advance.

Storm drainage scheme.

Now we put the diagram on paper:

1. First, we mark the location of the well.
2. Under the drains of the main house, we apply the location of the storm water inlets.
3. A straight line is drawn between the well and the receiver closest to it. This is the main storm sewer circuit.
4. The rest of the storm water inlets for the storm sewer are combined into a single circuit and brought to the main branch.

On the site, in addition to the main house, there are also auxiliary buildings: a garage, a bathhouse, a summer kitchen and others. They are also installed under their roofs, which means that a storm drain will have to be carried out for these buildings. Everything is done in the same way as with the main house system. Only connect their main circuit to the main sewer circuit.

The connection of all branches into a single network can be done in two ways:

• herringbone, when the docking of different sewer branches is made at angles to the main circuit;
• circular, when the main contour is drawn, and all other branches are connected to it through the combined rounded sections.

Usually, the first option is used, as the simplest and cheapest.

Now for the calculation. There is a diagram, on it you can accurately calculate the number of storm inlets, fittings, manholes and the total length of the required pipes.

Attention! Inspection wells are needed to control the operation of the storm drain, and, if necessary, to clean it. These devices are installed every 50 m. On small summer cottages they are not installed.

Preparatory work

First of all, the scheme is transferred to the site. They simply install pegs that are tied with twine or twine. Now you need to take shovels in your hands and dig trenches under the sewer pipe.

Since there are no serious requirements for stormwater drainage, except for a correctly set angle of inclination, the pipes are buried at a shallow depth. The drainage of rain and melt water is carried out only at positive temperatures, so you do not need to pay attention to the fact that the piping will freeze. Accordingly, the volume earthworks will be small.

The most important thing in the process of digging trenches is to at least slightly hold the slope towards the well. Be sure to immediately dig a pit under the well. It can be crafted from iron concrete rings, bricks, blocks or stone. But today, more and more often they use different sizes and shapes for this. plastic containers... This means that the pit must be dug under the parameters of the purchased tank.

The bottom of the trenches is covered with sand. Try to maintain the slope at least visually. In principle, at this stage, the preparatory stage can be considered complete.

Assembly process

The installation of the storm sewer has reached its main stage - the laying of pipes or trays and the assembly of the network. This is the most important process on which the efficient and correct operation of the entire system depends. As for pipes, ordinary sewer products with a diameter of 100-110 mm are used for stormwater. They are stacked by inserting into each other. When joining adjacent branches, the connection is made by fittings: bends, tees, crosses.

It is at this stage that it is necessary to ensure that the angle of inclination along the entire length of the contours is the same. Therefore, when laying each pipe, check it for inclination using a level or goniometer. If the slope is large, then a layer of sand is poured under the lower edge of the pipe. If it is small, then, on the contrary, the filled layer is reduced.

When the entire network is assembled, proceed to the installation of a sewer well. The main task, if a ready-made tank is purchased, is to set it up so that its inlet pipe becomes a continuation of the sewer pipe in one straight line. The elbow (knee) in this place is not the most the best choice... This is the first thing.

Second, it is important that the inlet is flush with the supply pipe. Therefore, first storm sewage is collected, meaning pipes, and then a plastic well is installed. If its inlet pipe turned out to be much lower than the sewer pipe, then the tank is pulled out and a sand bed is made under it. If it turned out to be higher, then the bottom of the pit is reduced by digging out part of the soil or sand cushion.

Installation of storm water inlets

Installation of a storm water inlet for a private house

Despite the seeming simplicity of this installation operation, there are several rather serious nuances in it that affect the quality of the final result. Here is the sequence for installing this device:

1. In places where storm water inlets are installed, pits are dug 15 cm deeper than the height of the device, and on the sides they are 30 cm more than the side of the device.
2. A cement-sand mixture is poured onto the bottom. Align it and ram it. Backfill thickness - 10 cm.
3. A polyethylene film folded in half is laid inside the hole. Laying is done so that the polyethylene covers the walls of the recess. This is a waterproofing that will prevent the concrete solution from penetrating the ground and the pillow.
4. The bottom is poured with concrete mortar 2-5 cm thick.
5. Install a storm water inlet, set it on a level.
6. It is connected to a pipe with a double-sided coupling or two branches. The last option is used only if sewage pipe located much below the installation level of the storm water inlet.
7. Concrete is poured into the gap between the walls of the recess and the installed device.
8. As soon as the concrete "grabs", a siphon, a sand collector and a grate are installed inside the gully body.

Attention! The stormwater inlet is installed in height so that its protective grill is located on the same level with the coating near the foundation. It can be blind areas or sidewalk: tiles, stone, asphalt, etc.

This is how a storm drain is constructed with your own hands from sewer pipes.

Installation of trays

As for the installation of storm sewer trays, then, purely schematically, this process is no different from the previous one. That is, the main contour is created, to which the secondary branches of the network are attached.

Here it is necessary to decide first of all the question of which material to choose the tray from.

And two purely constructive points. To begin with, the storm sewer must have one hundred percent tightness at the junction of the trays. Therefore, manufacturers today offer trays with tongue-and-groove connecting locks. This is additionally convenient in the sense that when connecting two elements there is no need to check how tightly one tray fits into the other. That is, they inserted the thorn of one into the groove of the other - and this is a guarantee of the tightness of the connection.

The second structural element is the factory bias. All this consists in the fact that the tray itself is a straight product. But its grooved part is made at an angle. That is, on one side, the bottom is thicker, on the opposite, thinner. Therefore, when a storm drain is being built from such trays, then the trenches for them do not need to be dug with a slope. The bottom levels out horizontally, the same is done with the sand cushion. The products themselves are also displayed horizontally, which is much easier than tilting. It is recommended to install concrete or composite products on a concrete pad. Plastic on sandy.

How to care for stormwater

If it concerns the system closed type, then you just need to periodically clean the gully from debris and sand. Usually the underground part is littered very rarely. But if this happened, then the most effective option- hydrodynamic. This is the supply of a large amount of water under high pressure.

As for the tray system, the main thing is to periodically clean the grids that cover the trays. This can be done with a regular broom. After the end of the leaf fall, it is recommended to clean the trays themselves. To do this, you will have to remove all the grates and scoop out the debris.

Conclusion on the topic

A storm drain in a private house is a necessary system. You shouldn't skimp on it. Moreover, the costs of its construction are minimal. The installation technology itself is simple, so it's easy to do it yourself. The main thing is to take into account the nuances of selection and installation indicated in this article. Even a slight deviation in the editing process can reduce the quality of the final result.

To become a good owner of a private suburban area is not only to build a mansion and other necessary buildings - a garage, utility rooms, utility rooms. It will definitely require a lot of attention - the installation of fences and barriers, gates, planting the necessary trees¸ the creation of recreation areas, the breakdown of flower beds or a vegetable garden, the construction of greenhouses and much more. And so that all this self-created splendor will serve as long as possible, it is necessary to take care of another important component - sewage.

In this case, we are not talking about the usual one, which, by the way, is always remembered by everyone. But about the other is often forgotten - I mean "storm drain". But do-it-yourself stormwater drainage is a difficult task, but no less necessary. Forgetting about it, and even more so - deliberately ignoring it would be an unforgivable mistake.

There is no need to hope that huge masses of water entering the site after summer thunderstorms or during a period of prolonged autumn rains, during the spring massive melting of snow, they will go away by themselves, “dissolve”. All this, without a storm drain, can turn into flooded basements or cellars, damp floors on the ground floors and in outbuildings, rapid "aging" of building foundations, cracking of basements and blind areas around them, erosion and complete destruction of the paved access routes to the house and footpaths, waterlogging of the site, death of garden plantings, other serious troubles.

In short, it is better to make a high-quality storm sewer once than to constantly deal with the consequences of "water invasions". We read, remember, learn!

What is a storm sewer for? Its main elements

The task of the storm sewage system is simple and understandable - it is necessary to collect all rain or melt water in specially laid communications for this purpose on the territory of the serviced area, it is organized to redirect it for primary filtration, if necessary, additional treatment, and then collect it into accumulating tanks or dump it into existing sewer city sewers, into its own drainage collector with further output to filtration fields or with a drain into a natural reservoir.

It is simply impossible to talk about any single model of storm sewer. Its design can be both the simplest and the most complex, branched, equipped with modern water purification devices. It depends and from the size of the serviced area, and from, its features, and from intensity and volume of precipitation, and from degree of water pollution, and from other factors. Nevertheless, we can talk about the generality of the basic elements of the storm drain, which in one form or another are present in any of the created schemes.

1 - One of the most important components is a system for collecting rainwater from the roofs of a residential building and all additional annexes. Its task is to collect the entire volume of water in one channel (or in several organized streams) in order to then redirect it into stormwater communication.

The storm begins on the roof of the house - from the drainage system

It will not be considered in this publication - there is a separate article on our portal devoted to it.

2 - Streams of water must fall, first of all, in the storm water inlets. Two options are possible here - linear and point.

- with a linear scheme, the role of storm water inlets is played by trays (gutters) installed at ground level and collected from above with a lattice. Usually, this approach provides for a slight artificial slope of the surface towards the tray. By the way, long trays do a good job with the role of transferring the water flow towards the collector - and this is a possible saving on pipes and earthworks.

- in the case of a point arrangement of the catchment areas, an “envelope type” slope is made towards them. Typical installation locations for such receivers water - under the vertical drain pipes coming from the roofs, near the entrances to the building - in the pits at the doors, near the water intake in the yard, etc. Storm water inlets are always connected to the storm sewer underground communications system.

As a rule, in a "pure" form, none of the schemes is used - usually the stormwater system combines both linear and point installation principles in a general system.

3 - Devices for preliminary, "coarse" filtration of water - these include grates, baskets, sand traps, sedimentation tanks. The task is to prevent a large amount of debris from getting into underground utilities in order to avoid their rapid clogging.

Very often, such devices are an integral part of storm water inlets.

4 - system underground pipes ensuring the transfer of water from storm water inlets to collectors or discharge point.

5 - even a not very ramified system of underground communications cannot do without wells - they allow regular control and preventive measures to avoid blockages in the sewage system.

6 – possibly for owners of private suburban areas, on which storm sewers are created, this is not so important, but still one cannot fail to mention the water purification system. For example, rainwater from city streets, highways, parking lots, industrial or food enterprises must undergo a mandatory post-treatment cycle, otherwise it is simply prohibited to discharge them into city sewers. So, water goes through oil, petrol separation in special devices, fine purification in carbon filters and other stages necessary in specific conditions. By the way, this opens up opportunities for great savings - for example, at car washes, the storm sewers of which are equipped with modern filtering and treatment plants, "secondary" water is again becoming quite applicable for washing cars.

Be that as it may, it is forbidden to discharge storm water into natural water bodies in urban conditions. It is up to the owner of the site to decide whether or not to install a post-treatment system in his personal household, although it is possible that such requirements may be made by environmental supervision services (for example, opening a car repair shop, another mini-enterprise, etc.)

7 - Finally, the final destination for water transportation. It can be an accumulation tank, water from which can be used for technical or agricultural goals (it will only be enough to establish). If there is no such need, then the water through the collector can be discharged to the filtration fields or simply discharged into a natural reservoir or into a centralized sewer system.

Now, in order to be able to correctly choose the necessary ones for the storm sewer being created, the main elements will be considered a little closer.

Trays and point storm water inlets

Let's start from the very beginning, with rainwater harvesting points.

a) Trays

As already noted, in the storm sewer, which is completely or fragmentarily organized according to a linear principle, the main places for collecting water are trays. It would seem that nothing could be easier, but meanwhile they also have a certain classification according to several parameters.

• If this element of the stormwater is located on the surface, then it simply cannot but experience certain external mechanical loads. Depending on the specific location of the tray installation, you can choose one of the classes of permissible load:

Tray Load Class	Mechanical load limit	Typical Application Site
A15	up to 1.5 t	The weakest trays are used only in pedestrian areas, on cycle paths, in parks, along the perimeter of private houses, etc.
B125	up to 12.5 t	They will quite cope with the mass of a passenger car, therefore they are widely used in parking lots and car washes, in garage cooperatives. Probably the most the best solution and for the storm drain of a private house.
S250	up to 25.0 t	Trays are used in road construction, at gas stations, in large garages, in car service enterprises
D400	up to 40.0 t	Designed for roads with high intensity of freight and passenger traffic, on the territory of industrial and motor transport enterprises
E600	up to 60.0 t	Large logistics centers, including berths, railway junctions, etc.
F900	up to 90.0 t	Special purpose facilities with possible extreme loads, for example, airfields, military bases, etc.

• The next option for selecting a tray is its throughput. It can in no way be less than the calculated data for a specific site (the calculation system will be discussed below). The main indicator is the diameter of the hydraulic section (DN) - the value that must correspond to the pipes supplied to the trays.
• And, finally, the material for making the tray - there are also several options here:

- Concrete gutters are the most durable of all available. Those of them, which belong to the E600 (or even F900) class, have full versatility and can be used everywhere.

Concrete gutters can have a fixed gutter depth, but some are produced with an inclined bottom surface, which takes into account the slope required for water drainage (about 5%). Trays can be rectangular, trapezoidal or round. Hydraulic section - - from DN100 to DN500. The height of the tray walls varies depending on the throughput - from 90 to 760 mm. The usual form of release is a gutter 1000 mm long with a locking part for a reliable connection.

The main disadvantage of such trays is their massiveness. Even for relatively small gutters with a DN 150 the weight of one section is already about 100 kg.

Reinforced concrete trays are usually equipped with cast iron gratings. To trays not large diameter stainless steel grilles can also be supplied.

- Plastic trays are the most popular option for storm drains in areas where heavy loads are not expected. They are made from polyethylene or polypropylene. By class strength is from A to C, that is, for the conditions of private buildings - it is quite enough.

The hydraulic diameters of the flat trays are from DN70 and usually up to DN300. The standard length is 1000 mm. A convenient locking system allows not only building in linear structures, but also branching to the side or connecting gutters to pipes. The grilles can be supplied with stainless steel or the same plastic.

Polymeric parts are convenient for their low weight - installation does not require special efforts and lifting equipment.

— Polymer concrete trays are a relatively new type of product. For the production, a composite was used, which will come to the gutters of the dignity of both concrete and plastic. At the same time, they are much more durable and half the weight of concrete and stronger than polymer ones. Models with DN 100 to 200 are an excellent solution for private construction.

—Polymer sand trays are practically eternal products obtained by fusing polymer raw materials with fine-grained quartz sand, followed by casting and pressing. As a result - both the complete chemical inertness of the resulting material, and its highest strength.

By the way, the technology is not particularly expensive, so the price for polymer sand products are quite acceptable. The mass of products is almost three times lower than that of concrete, therefore, the costs of transportation, loading and installation are also significantly reduced.

Usually polymer sand trays are produced in sizes from DN70 to DN150 with strength class C 250. The gutter is equipped with all the necessary parts.

b) Storm water inlets

In storm drains, which are organized according to the point type, storm inlets become the main place of the catchment area. Typical locations for their installation:

Typical example installations - under the edge of the downpipe

• Directly under drainpipes that collect rain or melt water from the roof of a building. Often, the drainpipe even enters the stormwater inlet, and it becomes its continuation.
• At the edge of the street carriageway.
• In places where the slopes of the territory intersect (natural, or artificially created).
• Entrance groups - grates, places for washing or cleaning shoes near entrance doors at home.

In order not to dwell on the materials of their manufacture for a long time, it can be noted that they completely coincide with the material of the trays (with one exception - there are storm water inlets cast entirely from cast iron).

In individual construction, plastic or composite materials are most often used. elemenyou... As a rule, they are cubic in shape with a length of each facet of 300 or 400 mm. Adapters are provided on both sides and bottom for easy and fast tapping of standard diameter pipes.

In addition, this gives one more opportunity - if, according to the operational characteristics of the sewage system, at a given point, a storm water inlet of increased capacity is required, then it is easy to install two or more sections vertically, thus achieving the desired result.

What else can be included in the kit of a standard plastic storm water inlet:

• Not a single storm water inlet can do without a grate. It's not just to not create problems with the movement of people or vehicles - the grating also plays the role of the first filtering line - it retains large fragments of debris.

It is clear that the lattice must have the required strength - not lower than the storm water inlet itself.

• A lot of debris still gets through the large cells of the upper grill. In order to minimize its ingress into pipes to the maximum, in many models of storm water inlets, a special lattice basket is installed inside. This is very convenient - as the basket becomes clogged, it will not be difficult to pull the ore out by the handle and clean it, and then put it back in place.
• In the pipes of the storm sewer, there is no escape, there will always be a process of organic decay with a putrid smell known to everyone. To prevent these "aromas" from poisoning the atmosphere around the water collection points, partitions are provided inside the storm water inlets. They will divide the chamber into several compartments with a siphon effect. Thus, the resulting water seal will not pass bad smell out.

Storm water inlet - ladder

Models exist storm water inlets with pits and grilles installed on them for cleaning the soles of shoes. Alternatively, you can purchase instead of storm water inlets ready-made blocks - ladders, in the layout of which everything is provided - and the filter grate, and the siphon seal, and the branch pipe (horizontal or vertical) for connecting the pipe.

Prices for various storm water inlet systems

Storm water inlets

Storm sewer pipes

The purpose of the pipes in the storm sewer system is so obvious that you should not dwell on it. It is better to take a closer look at the requirements for them and the optimal models for choosing.

• Since water in storm drains always moves under the action of gravitational forces, without forced pumping, and they themselves are always buried, there are simply no special requirements for withstanding a pressure load and for thermal stability. Of course, provided that the strength reserve is sufficient to withstand the external pressure of the soil layer poured onto them from above.
• High temperatures in such conditions cannot be by definition. At correct installation there should be no stagnation of water in the system, that is, you should not be afraid of frost either. The main thing is that the material of manufacture is not afraid of negative temperatures.
• But the chemical effect on the walls of pipes, both from the inside, from passing water, and from the outside - from the ground, can be very aggressive. Therefore, not every material is suitable, but only one that has excellent inertness to active chemicals and is not subject to corrosion.
• The water in the storm drain is far from clean, therefore, the hydraulic resistance of the pipe walls should be minimal. There must be smooth inner walls so that there are no prerequisites for the formation of blockages in the cavity.
• And finally, the dimensions of the pipes.

- the diameter, and hence the throughput, must fully correspond to the design parameters of the storm sewer. As a rule, even in very small storm drains, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 ÷ 110 mm are used.

- pipe length: the more the better. Any joint is always a vulnerable spot, either from the point of view of leakage or blockage. This means that the fewer there are, the better for stormwater, and the easier it is to install.

• Asbestos concrete pipes, although they are considered quite reliable, durable, but their popularity is falling, and their use is increasingly being abandoned. There are several reasons for this.

They are fragile and can be damaged during transport or during installation. They are inconvenient to assemble due to their weight and the need for special sealing of the joints. highly aggressive soil, the material will begin to decompose over time, become loose. And from the point of view of ecology, asbestos is still not the best option. In some European countries, by the way, for this reason, it is not used at all in residential construction.

• PVC pipes, the same ones that are widely used for ordinary sewage. They have a diameter of 110 or 160 mm, and those that are allowed for outdoor use have a characteristic bright orange color.

Such pipes are connected very easily, since there is a special socket for this with an installed seal - a rubber cuff. Their surface strength is quite enough to withstand the pressure of several meters of soil. The pipe cavity is smooth, that is, the resistance to water flow is minimal.

The main disadvantage of PVC pipes is the lack of flexibility

And yet they cannot be called ideal. The main disadvantage of PVC pipes is their limited length (maximum - 3 meters) and a complete lack of elasticity. Even a small change in direction will require the use of special elements - bends, and this is an increasing number of joints and a serious rise in the cost of the entire system being created.

• The optimal solution to the problem is the purchase of plastic pipes with a multilayer structure and a corrugated frame. The special ring stiffness allows such pipelines to withstand very significant loads while remaining flexible.

Multilayer corrugated pipes - the best solution

Plastic can be used in different ways. Pipes are made of one polymer. for example polypropylene. But more often such a scheme is used - the inner surface, which provides an unobstructed flow of water, is low-pressure polyethylene, and the reinforcing top layer is made using polypropylene.

The flexibility of the pipes makes it possible to plan a route with curved sections - no additional elements it won't require. Moreover, pipes with a diameter of up to 200 mm m can be purchased in the bay with a total length of a section up to 40 - 50 meters. Thus, it is fashionable to carry out the installation of long sections, for example, between inspection chambers, in one piece, without additional joints.

The connection of such pipes can be carried out in different ways - with sockets and sealing rings, with transition couplings - welding, heat-shrinkable, clamping, etc. In any case, installation is not particularly difficult if the right tools and accessories.

• Worthy of mention, although practically not used in storm drains of private houses, glass plastic pipes... Their scope of use is large highways and collectors with a diameter of about 500 mm and more.

Their convenience in lightness and at the same time - the highest strength, complete environmental friendliness, durability. The disadvantages that limit their widespread use are considerable difficulties in the technology of their connection and a rather high price.

Prices for fiberglass pipes

Devices for filtration and water purification

The next important elements of the storm drain are devices and installations for purifying the discharged water. Are they really necessary?

• Water on the way to storm water inlets or gutters captures a considerable amount of grains of sand, small particles of soil and organic matter. If you do not prevent their free penetration into the underground pipe system, then it will quickly silt up, overgrow with sand, and will cease to cope with its task. To prevent this from happening, storm streams must pass through sand traps and mechanical strainers.
• Rain or melt water necessarily carries along with it wastes or residues of oil products present on the ground or suspended in the atmosphere, components of automobile exhaust and industrial emissions, etc. One of the cleaning tasks is to remove from such contaminants.
• Many surprises can be expected from the outside. chemical composition water - it is strongly influenced by agricultural chemicals, reagents on the roads, the same industrial emissions. All of this can pose a very serious threat to environment... This means that water will also require chemical treatment.

This complex of problems is solved in different ways.

Sand catchers(grit traps)

These are quite simple devices., which, at the same time, are capable, with proper installation, of retaining at least 85 ÷ 90% of insoluble inclusions in rain or melt water. Sand traps are an indispensable element of any storm drain, without exception, regardless of its type, branching and the required degree of water purification at the outlet. Without them, the communication part of the sewage system will very quickly become overgrown with sand and mud, and will require expensive flushing.

Operating principle sand traps- extremely simple. This is always a volumetric chamber, designed in such a way that water, getting into it, sharply reduces the flow rate. This makes it possible for solid suspensions under the influence of gravity to simply settle to the bottom of the chamber. The purified water continues its further movement through the outlet.

Typical places of their installation are transition points of trough storm water inlets in underground communications, immediately after the point receivers(for example, behind the input pallets). In this case, they are usually equipped with a basket in which deposits accumulate to facilitate regular cleaning.

The form of execution is most often a vertical chamber, although horizontal multi-chamber traps are also encountered. In addition, the sand trap chamber is most often the first in the direction of fluid flow in other filtration and purification installations, for example, in oil separators or filters.

Different materials are also possible options - sand traps there are plastic, concrete, polymer concrete... Usually they are purchased together with other elements of the system.

Oil separators

In most cases, such equipment will not be needed in the practice of private construction. However, if the owner of the site intends to organize on his territory, for example, a car repair shop, mini-workshop, car wash, etc., then he may not receive permission for this until he equips the storm sewer accordingly. AND oil separator will become an obligatory element of it. Therefore, in short - about such devices:

Most often, this is a container located underground, divided by partitions into several compartments. The first is almost always used as another volumetric sand trap... The very process of separating oil products from water takes place in a compartment with coalescent modules installed in it. These are corrugated plates made of special polyvinyl chloride glued into cassettes. A specific property of PVC applies here - non-wetting its water, that is, hydrophobicity. But oil products, on the contrary, are excellent "attracted" to this polymer surface.

Remains of fuel and oils are contained in water in the form of insoluble microsuspensions - suspensions. For a year, the flow passes through the modules (they are made corrugated to increase the contact area), then water penetrates further freely, but microscopic drops of oil products adhere to PVC, gradually merging with each other and, accordingly, enlarging. The flow of liquid through the plates always causes microvibrations, which contribute to the separation of droplets of fuels and lubricants from the PVC surface. Since the drops have reached large sizes, gravitational forces begin to act on them. Oil products are lighter than water, and they float upward, forming a dense layer of waste on the surface, which is removed as needed (many gasoline oil separators are equipped with built-in waste filling control systems).

In the total tank of the gasoline oil separator in the next chamber downstream of the water, a fine filter can be installed immediately. mechanical cleaning... Further, the treated water enters the collector or the additional treatment unit, if necessary.

Modern devices for cleaning storm water from oil products can be small in size, and sometimes they are produced in such a design that they can even be placed in a visit, for example, in a basement. The figure shows such a compact petrol oil separator made of high density polyethylene (REND), which can be installed indoors or, for example, in a manhole.

Additional filtration and purification devices

This includes, first of all, all those grates and baskets that are encountered on the path of water, starting from the surface itself. If the water requires more serious mechanical treatment, then flotation units can be included in the system - in these chambers, storm drains are aerated with a water-air dispersion, the bubbles of which carry away even the smallest insoluble inclusions.

If chemical treatment of storm water is also required, for example, for the reuse of collected water, then sorption filters are installed. Water, passing through the backfill of activated carbon, shungite, zeolite or other non-fillers, is filtered at a fine level, and then enters the storage manifold. After such filters, a special well is usually arranged for taking chemical water samples.

Video: storm sewer with water purification systems

Wells and collectors

Finally, essential elements any storm sewers are wells and sewers.

Wells

Not a single underground pipe system can do without wells, and storm sewers are no exception in this regard. These elements are required for installation:

• At those points where two or more laid underground water streams are brought together.
• Where, due to terrain conditions, there is a need to sharply change the angle of inclination of pipes or the height of their burial under the ground.
• At the point where the direction of the laid underground pipeline changes abruptly (at the top of the formed corner).
• If necessary, switch to pipes of a larger diameter.
• On long straight sections of the route - at regular intervals.

If earlier the wells had to be laid out of bricks, concreted or, using heavy-weight reinforced concrete rings, today there is big choice these products made of various types of plastics or fiberglass.

Wells usually have a vertical cylindrical shape, they can be solid sludge collapsible. They always have a sealed bottom and an opening at the top, covered by a cover or hatch. The body must have inlet and outlet nozzles for tapping pipes.

If the well is used as a differential one, then the entrance to it is always located lower than the exit. Typical example application- when, with long and branched systems, it is necessary to avoid deep burial of pipes into the ground, or when it is necessary to bypass an underground obstacle.

By the way, all wells very often play the role of additional and very effective sand traps... Cleaning it is much easier than flushing clogged pipes.

Several vertically installed and hermetically connected storm water inlets can also be used as revision wells - this is inherent in their operational capabilities.

A special type of well, if necessary, is located immediately after leaving the treatment plant - here samples of purified water are taken before it enters the collector.

Collectors

All rain or melt water collected from the site must be collected in one place (or in one stream) for organization or its accumulation for economic use, or for discharge into a drainage field, into a natural body of water or into a centralized sewerage system. In any case, a collector is needed, which is usually a large-diameter pipe, plastic or reinforced concrete - all supply pipelines from all sections of the storm sewer cut into it. Through it, the collected rainwater is directed to the place of treatment (if necessary), and then to the place of discharge or accumulation.

There are also special underground plastic containers, which are assigned the role of a collector - here water is collected and then discharged to drainage fields or to an open drain.

Often, underground reservoirs have a multi-chamber layout, and the water here undergoes additional sedimentation and additional treatment, according to the principle

Another version of the collector - in its role, you can use a polymer sealed well of increased capacity. All unnecessary outlet pipes on it are muffled, and it turns into a storage tank, from where water can be pumped out submerged for household or agricultural needs.

Prices different kinds septic tanks for sewers

How to plan and calculate storm sewers

The planning and design of storm sewers is a very difficult question. If a storm drain is necessary to open a business enterprise, then you should not undertake independent calculations. Such a task for forces only to special organizations that must have state certification. They will design storm sewers taking into account a large amount of various information:

• Topographic features of the site, the presence of natural slopes, reservoirs, etc.
• Climatic features of the region.
• Approximate plans for the general development and landscaping of the site.
• Geological surveys - features of soils on the territory.
• Technical conditions for connection to the central collector system or sanitary standards for the discharge of storm water into the soil or natural water bodies.
• The wishes of the owners are necessarily taken into account, for example, for the construction of storage tanks for the collected water.

The drafted project is subject to mandatory approval by the controlling organizations (Technical Supervision, SES, Ecology, Vodokanal), and only after full agreement can it be possible to start construction. Typically, such exploration work is carried out at the stage overall planning development of the site, taking into account the location of all types of sewers - waste, storm and drainage.

In the event that such a sewage system does not require approval, and the owner of the site is going to build a storm drain at his own peril and risk, without the involvement of specialists, he should still adhere to certain recommendations. All of them are based on the requirements of SNiP -2.04.03-85, but presented in a somewhat simplified form, which should be sufficient for independent planning.

The performance of the planned stormwater

In order for the system to fully cope with its tasks, its elements must have the ability to pass the required amount of water through themselves (of course, with a certain reserve). First of all, this concerns pipes - their hydraulic section should ensure the removal of the average amount of precipitation. How to calculate it? - for this, you can apply a simplified calculation formula:

QSat= q20 × F× ϒ

Letters indicate:

QSat- the calculated volume of water collected from a certain area

q20 - a tabular value expressing the coefficient of precipitation intensity in a given region. It is calculated by processing long-term observation data. The specific meaning is always known to workers, local meteorological services, architects, but it is easy to find it out from the attached diagram. The unit of measurement is liters per second per hectare of area.

F- the area for which the amount of precipitation is calculated. If the area of ​​a pitched roof is measured, then it is taken in a horizontal projection, as in the plan. If water from several sections enters one stormwater inlet, then their area is summed up. The resulting value must be translated into hectares.

ϒ Is a coefficient that corrects for the absorbency of the coating. Several values ​​that are important for the owners of suburban areas are shown in the table:

So, first, the calculation is made for each point of the stormwater inlet (line of trays). Based on the obtained volumes, according to the table below, the required (minimum) diameter of the pipe that removes water from this section to the well is determined. If several streams converge in the well, then, accordingly, the calculation is then carried out from the total volume of the withdrawn water - and so on.

As a rule, for a small country house or plot, pipes with a diameter of 110 to 150 are enough. For a collector - in the region of 200 mm.

Created pipe slope

Since storm sewers never involve forced pumping of water, the pipes must be given a slope in advance, which will be sufficient for the independent flow of liquid from the collection points to the place of discharge or accumulation. This value depends mainly on the hydraulic section of the pipe or chute.

The table below answers two questions at once:

• According to the calculated value of the total volume of collected water QSat- the required pipe diameter is determined in the first three columns.
• In the right column, you can immediately see the required slope angle of the pipe or tray.

Hydraulic section of pipes or trays	DN 110	DN 150	DN 200	Slope value (%)
The volume of collected water (Qsb)	3.9	12.2	29.8	0.3
-"-	5	15.75	38.5	0,3 - 0,5
-"-	7	22.3	54.5	0,5 - 1,0
-"-	8.7	27.3	66.7	1,0 - 1,5
-"-	10	31.5	77	1,5 - 2,0

To make it easier to understand - 1% of the slope will correspond to a 10 mm difference in height on a straight section with a length of 1 meter.

The calculation is good, but still practice shows that for the normal operation of storm sewers, a slope of 20 mm / 1 is usually made pog... m - for pipes and trays DN110, about 10 mm - for DN150 and about 7 mm - for collectors DN 200.

There are some deviations. After inserting the pipe into the stormwater inlet, the slope is usually made more - so that stagnation does not arise in this place, so that the water goes into the underground utilities as quickly as possible. And vice versa, before entering the sand traps, the slope can be reduced so that water enters the expanded tank in a quieter state - so it will be easier for solid particles to settle to the bottom.

Depth of pipes

In theory, water should not stagnate in the stormwater pipes, and therefore they should not be afraid of freezing. Apparently, this is why there are no exact rules on the issue of burying pipes into the ground. There are only recommendations that you should probably use:

• Pipes with a diameter of up to DN500 have their upper edge at least 300 mm below the freezing point.
• With diameters DN500 and more, this interval increases to 500 mm.

The general recommendation is the minimum burial depth is 700 mm. It happens that the features of the system do not allow the pipes to be placed so deep. This means that we will have to think over the issue of thermal insulation (for example, with expanded polystyrene half-cylinders) and protection from accidental mechanical damage.

Where should the wells be located?

The location of the wells was already mentioned above when their purpose was considered. In order not to repeat - only about their location on straight sections:

A few words about the size of the wells. If the storm drain is created in a private house, then the pipes usually do not exceed 200 mm, and the diameter of the wells is 1000 mm. With pipes DN110 and DN150, wells with a diameter of 700 mm can be used, but only if their depth is not more than 1000 mm. And if you need a deep well, more than 3000 mm, then its minimum diameter increases - already up to 1500 mm.

Having dealt with the basic principles of storm sewer planning, you can proceed to drawing up your own project.

• First of all, it is necessary to divide the territory into water collection areas, determine their area (for the roof, this is done in a horizontal projection, that is, without taking into account the slope, as for a flat one).

Calculating the area is easy!

For those who experience certain difficulties with geometry, a "magic wand" has been prepared. Follow the link to a special article on the portal devoted to questions - there are considered a variety of examples, from the simplest to the most complex ones, there are convenient calculators.

• The possibility of placing common storm water inlets for adjacent collection sites is being determined. The collection principle is selected - point, linear or combined.
• The volume of collected water (in liters per second) is calculated according to the above formula for each collection area and then in total - for each storm water inlet.
• The tables determine the required cross-section of pipes and their slope.
• Wells are "placed", and for each of them the volume of storm collection is summed up - to correctly determine the cross-section and slope of pipes coming out of them - further, to the next wells or directly to the collector.
• A certain "cascade" of wells may be required with a gradual increase in the number of serviced collection points. The approximate required volume of each well is immediately estimated.
• It is planned to install sand traps and, if necessary, other treatment systems.
• Ultimately, all lines must converge to a collector of a certain capacity. Further, depending on specific conditions - drainage, drainage or accumulation to the fields for subsequent use of water for irrigation or other household needs.

In order not to be mistaken in the calculations, it seems expedient to draw up a table in which all the catchment areas with their sizes and characteristics and the "hierarchy" of storm water inlets, wells and collectors will be indicated. The execution can, of course, be different, but as an option - the table given as an example below:

Collection area	Area (m2) and collected volume of water	Storm water inlet no., Total collection volume and outlet pipe diameter	Well no., Total collection volume and outlet pipe diameter	Well No. total collection volume and outlet pipe diameter	Collector, total collection volume
South slope of the roof of the house, metal	40 m², 0.36 l / s	No. 1d, 0.63 l / s, DN110	No. 1k, 1.15 l / s, DN110	No. 3k, 1.66 l / s, DN110	3.02 l / s
The area is in the yard, asphalt.	32 m², 0.27 l / s
North roof slope, metal tiles	48 m², 0.43 l / s	No. 2d, 0.52 l / s, DN110
Playground - lawn from the back of the house, soil	28 m², 0.09 l / s
Gazebo in the recreation area, metal tiles	15 m², 0.14 l / s	No. 3d, 0.51 l / s, DN110	No. 2k, 0.51 l / s, DN110
Recreation area, concrete	30 m², 0.23 l / s
Lawn in a recreation area, soil	45 m², 0.14 l / s
Gateway, concrete	16 m², 0.12 l / s	No. 4d, 0.26 l / s, DN110	No. 4k, 0.6 l / s, DN110	No. 7k, 1.36 l / s, DN110
Parking area, compacted gravel	38 m², 0.14 l / s
Garage roof, single-pitched, metal tile	28 m², 0.25 l / s	No. 5d, 0.34 l / s, DN110
Garage area, concrete	12 m², 0.09 l / s
The roof of the utility block (shed + boiler room), metal tiles	17 m², 0.15 l / s	No. 6d, 0.24 l / s, DN110	No. 5k, 0.24 l / s, DN110
Household territory, concrete	12 m², 0.09 l / s
Garden area, soil	185 m², 0.52 l / s	No. 7d, 0.52 l / s, DN110	No. 6k, 0.52 l / s, DN110
And so on, in all areas in which a storm channel is created

And in order to simplify the task for the reader as much as possible, so that he does not have to carry out calculations manually, especially since the conversion of the area to hectares is required, a convenient calculator is placed below.

Any private house exposed to atmospheric precipitation. Sooner or later, any homeowner begins to think about a storm sewer on his site. In fact, it efficiently collects and also removes precipitation from the site. Many are convinced that this system is a roof drain. In fact, it is a complex mechanism with many elements. Let's talk about how to make a storm drain on our site.

Wastewater disposal principles

The best way to get started is by learning about the basics of wastewater disposal. The entire system should be directed to the main principle - wastewater is collected from the roof into a single stream, and then redirected to the collector. So all the main elements are collected in a common highway, which carries out a spillway.

In general, the procedure for draining rainwater will look like this:

• The water from the roof flows into the roof gutters;
• The effluent enters the storm water inlet and is directed to the collector.

Helpful advice. If there is no centralized sewage system, then the nearest ditch, reservoir or suitable well can play the role of a collector.

If we mention the drainage system, then it also takes up a significant place. She settles down where the greatest amount of water is collected.

How to design and calculate a storm drain

In order to do all the work with your own hands, but not spend extra money, it is necessary to carry out all the calculations in advance. Otherwise, you can get the following troubles:

• Do not calculate all the nuances. The system will not cope with the required amount of work;
• Do everything with an eye margin. Extra money will be spent.

The most accurate calculation will be obtained if the following data are available:

• Precipitation (volume), which are typical for the area. You can find them if you study SNiP.
• When the removal of melt water is required, then information about the level of snow cover. Here, the frequency of rains will be needed.
• Wastewater collection area.
• Soil parameters on the site.
• Location of communications available in the land.

When you have all the data, then you can perform all calculations on the number of drains discharged. The calculation uses the following formula:

A correction factor is required for calculations. It will be different for different types surface:

Based on the results of the calculation, the selection of the required pipe diameter should be carried out. In the search, you need to use the current SNiP table.

The design must also consider the way the fluid is transported to the reservoir. If there is such a situation that the slope of the storm sewer is insufficient for gravity, then it will be necessary to use a forced method using pumps.

Pay attention! The design must be carried out both for the external roofing system and for the elements underground..

System elements

Since rainwater drainage is necessary in order to collect and remove precipitation, the main structural elements will be pipes, trays, storm water inlets. Functionality depends on the correct selection and installation of the components. Next, we will consider the elements of the stormwater drainage structure.

Receiving elements

Storm water inlets... Required to pick up liquid from roofs, concrete surfaces, etc. Structurally, it is a container with a branch to a common sewer line. The material of manufacture is different, but most often they are polyethylene or polypropylene.

A prerequisite is the presence of filters that protect against clogging with debris. They are a kind of basket that you can pull out for cleaning. There are also devices equipped with siphons to trap unpleasant odors.

Door pallets... Analogue of the previous element. However, they are mounted near the entrance. Above it has a protective grill, and at the bottom a branch for connection to the pipeline. The use of such pallets solves 2 problems:

• Collects, removes liquid at the entrance to the building;
• Cleans the shoes of people entering the building. There is a special grille, which, among other things, is a decorative element.

Pipes and trays... Components through which fluid moves. Direct wastewater from storm water inlets to the collector.

Wells... Provide intermediate collection of rainwater, as well as the stable operation of stormwater.

Storm sewer protection devices

Sand traps... Are a mandatory component. The main task is to retain sand or soil. Protect pipes from clogging and allow optimal operation of the entire system.

The principle of operation is as follows: water enters the sand trap. The flow rate in the device decreases because its size is larger than drain pipe... Soil particles settle to the bottom, and the liquid moves further along the outgoing pipe.

Just like storm water inlets should have filter baskets to remove contamination.

Oil separators and oil separators... Devices that are mandatory for installation in industrial facilities. Especially important point will be where there is a combination of storm sewers with a waste liquid discharge, for example, at car washes.

Filters... Rainwater collection and removal systems cannot function without various types of filters. They can clean from mechanical impurities, carry out deep cleaning up to the necessary sanitary requirements. Filtration devices are as follows:

• Mechanical. Simple in design, but very effective. They carry out the main purification - from suspended particles. The first stage of cleaning is performed by grates on gutters, storm water inlets. The second stage is carried out in filter baskets that retain small debris. Provides long life with high performance.
• Sorption. Since the presence of harmful chemicals is found in rain or melt water, it becomes necessary to clean them from them. Such purification takes place with the help of sorption filter elements. Such devices allow water to pass through themselves, purifying it from harmful substances... Activated carbon, shungite, and special substances are used as sorbents.

Water collection methods

Based on the options for collecting water and the design, storm sewers can be divided into 2 types - point and linear.

Point system

Has storm water inlets installed under roof gutters. Each device has its own line, which is part of a single trunk. As mentioned earlier, they have protective grilles, as well as sand traps.

Linear system

With this design, the storm drain consists of a network of trays and pipelines that are either in the ground or openly laid. Open trays are also equipped with sand catchers and protective grilles. The difference with the point will be that the linear is able to absorb liquid both from the roof and from the entire site. For large perimeters, this is the model that needs to be applied.

Thus, before starting work, you need to decide on the method of collecting water, since at the initial stage preparatory work will be required.

At what depth to lay channels

It is necessary to choose the level of the bookmark taking into account the conditions of your site. So, for example, small pipes have a depth of 30 cm.When the pipelines are already of average dimensions, then it is necessary to deepen to 50 cm.For large dimensions, of course, a different level of deepening will be required - up to 70 cm.

Pay attention! If there is a drainage system, storm sewers should be laid above it.

If you do not want to sink too much into the ground, then you can reduce the depth of the bookmark. So, for example, the collector does not have to be mounted at a level greater than the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is not necessary to bury the channels. To prevent the collector from freezing, it should be insulated.

It is possible to reduce the depth of the trench, but you do not need to get too carried away. So, the slope of the storm sewer must be sufficient for an independent liquid stack. Based on this, the collector in any situation is located below the level of the storm water inlet. Just for this moment, the development of the project comes in handy. It will allow you to calculate the required bias in advance.

What slope is needed

The slope of the stormwater is regulated by the state standard. Based on this, the level will be as follows:

• Pipes 150 mm - 8 mm per 1 meter of the route;
• Pipe 200 mm - 7 mm per 1 meter of track.

True, you can take into account the nuances of the site and slightly change these values.

Pay attention! The storm water inlet must have a slope of 2 mm. This is due to the fact that if the slope is too small, the stormwater can not cope with the entire volume of work.

The trash box must have an even lower slope level, because the principle of operation must be adhered to so that solid elements have time to be placed on the bottom.

Installation process

The initial stage is the installation of gutters on the roof and bringing them down to the storm water inlet. Further operations on the site begin.

The entire installation begins with the installation of storm water inlets. They must be installed directly under the roof downpipes. Each receiving device must be connected to a single line. The gutters are connected to the receivers by means of elbows.

Next, you should start preparing trenches. The pipes must be laid on a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 100 mm. It has already been said above that a necessary bias is required, which must be constantly monitored.

To reduce the amount of excavation work, you can place a stormwater pipe with a drainage pipe in one prepared trench. But it is impossible to combine them. The drainage line must be located below, and on top of it there is already a storm one.

If we summarize all the operations, then we can say that all pipelines are put into a single line, heading to the collector.

As for the collector, it is important to note that it must be equipped with elements for monitoring the water level and cleaning it from contamination.

When all pipelines are connected and laid, then all trenches are covered with gratings.

Naturally, after installation, a functional check must be carried out. The storm drain is checked as follows - a bucket of water is poured into all storm inlets, the stack process is observed. You should also look for leaks. If present, remove them immediately. If everything works well, then cover the gratings with cellophane, fill the trench with soil.

Combination of storm and drainage systems

Earlier it was said that it is impossible to combine storm and drainage systems in one line. However, we offer the main points for their correct arrangement.

• Alignment is not allowed.
• Drainage is located at a depth greater than the level of soil freezing.
• For drainage, it is necessary to make a deeper trench, which, among other things, needs to be covered with rubble. The use of crushed stone is explained by the fact that it eliminates the pressure on the underground water pipe and thereby protect the pipe from destruction.
• Drainage installation is also carried out with observance of the slope.

So that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation is not wet and does not collapse, it is necessary to ensure the drainage of precipitation. This requires a rainwater drain. We can see it in cities - it is a system of devices for receiving water and canals. Storm sewer in a private house is smaller, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do it, but you can cope on your own, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.

What is a storm sewer system of a private house and what is it like

In regions with a large amount of precipitation, it is necessary to divert rain and melt water somewhere. If this is not done, the paths are gradually destroyed, the earth in the yard becomes limp, and then dries up for a long time. If you have not yet made a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, a storm sewer in a private house is a guarantee of the longevity of your house, order and tidy appearance on your site. This kind engineering systems also called storm water drainage or rainwater drainage.

The composition of the system is as follows:

Where to put the water

Most of the questions arise with what to do with the precipitation, which is rapidly approaching. Firstly, a storm sewer in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all pipes of the system are brought together into a large container or several containers, and from there, with the help of a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.

Secondly, if there is nothing to water or there is nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain storm water into a centralized sewage system, a gutter located near a reservoir. If these possibilities cannot be realized, they arrange a system for dumping water into the ground. These are perforated plastic pipes buried below ground level.

Types and their features

Storm sewage in a private house can be of three types:

In each case, you have to design your own scheme - there is no single recipe. Each has its own plot with its features: soil absorbency, relief, buildings, planning.

What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is just one of many options. The second place where it is desirable to divert water is a vast paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. The problem can be solved by making one or several water collection points - to put point storm water inlets and drain the water according to one of the recipes.

Combined or separate

Often in a private house it is necessary to make three drainage systems at once:

• drainage;
• storm.

They often run parallel or close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine the storm drain with some other. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water arrives at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. It happens that it overflows.

If the discharge goes into a sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It will not rise above the ground level, but you will not be able to lower anything either - everything will be in the plumbing. After lowering the water level, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewage system, you have to clean it. Not a pleasant experience.

Simultaneous laying of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused

If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, undermining it. You can imagine the consequences. There are still not so obvious things. For example, silting of drainage pipes. It is unrealistic to clean them, you have to change them. And this is a big expense and a lot of work.

So from all that has been said, we can draw a conclusion. First, a storm sewer in a private house must have its own well. The second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are not lucky to have a pond, lake or river nearby.

Stormwater components and their types

All elements of the storm sewer in a private house must be connected to the system. Here's what it can consist of:

• Well. It should be large. How much depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from water only by the need to make the bottom. For this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the stove yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to the poured concrete platforms so that they do not "float". The good solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.

  

• A hatch above the stormwater well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed cover is 15-20 cm below ground level. Under the installation of the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or pour a neck out of concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a finished cover with a hatch, you can pour only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in color and density, paying attention to what is under it.

  

• Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under the drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. The bodies of storm water inlets can be made of plastic or concrete. Concrete ones are used in the device of deep-laid storm water. They are put one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.

  

• Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in places with the greatest rainfall - along the eaves of the roof, if a drainage system has not been made, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if you have not laid pipes for water drainage. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the other end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make storm sewers without destroying the blind area.

  

• Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. Usually they put plastic cases - they are inexpensive, but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other in extended sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.

  

• Lattices. In order for the water to drain better, the holes in the grate must be large. They are:
  
• Pipes. For storm sewers, it is best to set polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red). Their smooth walls do not allow the accumulation of sediments, and they also have a higher conductivity than pipes of a similar diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of the stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation, the branching of the system. But the smallest diameter is 150 mm, or better - more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.

  

• Revision wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells, which are placed on an extended section of the pipeline, at the branch points of the system. Through them, if necessary, clean the pipes.

  

  On extended sections, revision points are needed - to clear possible blockages in pipes

The storm sewer in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but it is possible to build a system of any configuration and complexity from them.

Construction procedure

In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). So you can quite accurately determine what you need and how much. By purchasing necessary materials you can start work.

First, a gutter system is installed. Then the installation of the storm sewer begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with the laying of drainage and sewerage systems, as well as to carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?

Installation of a storm water inlet - pour concrete and "load" something heavy so as not to squeeze out

If other systems are already in place or are simply not needed, trenches can be dug. They should be 10-15 cm deeper than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it, devices are placed. Crushed stone will neutralize the heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under loads it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the load devices installed in it hardly feel any load.

When installing storm water inlets, they are concreted. A formwork is placed around, it is poured with a layer of concrete 15-20 cm. It must be calculated so that the finishing coating that you are going to lay normally "lays down".

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Nature never divides people into those who are ready for various phenomena, and those who have not yet been prepared. She simply demonstrates her abilities: summer rains, autumn thunderstorms, spring floods and winter snows. To protect against natural phenomena, a storm sewer was invented, which allows you to divert all precipitation from the site.

Many people mistakenly believe that the storm drain is limited to a few pipes installed at the edge of the building's roof. This is not the case, although gutters are also part of the structure. About how the storm drain is arranged, what it is, and how to make a storm sewer with your own hands, and the conversation will go in this article.

Construction of storm sewers around the house

There is a division into the main components that make up the storm drain and additional ones that ensure maximum efficiency of the system and allow it to fully perform all functions.

The basic set of storm sewer elements includes the following:

• downpipes with funnels and gutters: these are the names of the part of the structure that collects liquid from the roof of the building;
• point water collectors and storm water inlets;
• pipelines for transporting the collected water to the collector;
• a system of gutters connected to a linear drainage system and transferring the collected water to a pipeline (read also: "").

Additional stormwater details:

• special plugs that block the movement of water in the opposite direction;
• siphons that prevent the spread of an unpleasant odor from the sewer collector;
• sand traps.

Before you make a storm drain, you need to stock up on tools and materials. A shovel and a drill will be enough to complete the work. With materials, everything is more complicated, but not by much: bitumen mastic and fasteners for pipes need to be added to the list of the above parts.

The principle of storm drainage in a private house

To create high-quality storm sewers, you need to understand how concrete, plastic, or cast iron storm drains work. The basic principle: all drains are collected in one channel and directed to a common collector. Each structural element must be connected to a common system.

The correct storm drain on the site works like this: first, precipitation is collected from the roof of the building and sent to the gutters, then they move by gravity into the storm water inlet, and from there all the water moves through the pipes to the collector.

Linear drainage is an important part of the design. For its arrangement, it is necessary to install trays at ground level where water will be collected in the maximum volume (read: ""). Each stormwater tray is connected to the system and drains water further along it, but there are also schemes that allow water to be drained not underground through a pipeline, but on the earth's surface.

Installing a point stormwater do it yourself

In order for the stormwater drainage around the house to work correctly, it is necessary to carefully monitor the sequence and quality of actions during its arrangement. Before creating a structure, it is worth performing a stormwater calculation. The first step is to install funnels, which are most often called storm water inlets. The funnels should be installed where the water collected by the drain on the roof of the building drains. To install storm water inlets, it is necessary to prepare small recesses.

Such a drainage system provides that the stormwater pipes and funnels must be connected, therefore the latter are equipped with special holes. Through them, with the help of a knee, a pipe is installed, directed underground, and as a result it reaches a level where the soil does not freeze in cold weather. At this depth, the pipe is leveled, for which the elbow is again used, and set in a horizontal position, apart from the slight slope necessary for the fluid to flow by gravity.

From the pipe, water enters the collector, which is a special reservoir that provides temporary storage of storm water (read also: ""). After a while, the collected liquid will be sent to the ground or pumped to the nearest reservoir. The upper part of the collector must be equipped with a manhole with a hatch. The diameter of the well is usually in the range of about one meter. With absence inspection well access to the internal space of the storm drain and its cleaning will not be possible.

In addition to the point storm drainage, there is a design that works at the expense of trays with grates (for more details: ""). This system is called linear storm sewer. The trays are mounted directly on the ground, and the water that the funnels could not collect gets into them. Structural gutters can have different depths and sizes. Above the gutters, it is worth installing cast iron grids for storm drains to prevent various debris from entering the system. At the junction of the trays and pipelines, it is necessary to install sand traps, which will to a large extent protect the system from the ingress of various debris. In front of the house, you can install special concrete storm drains with a large width, which prevent the formation of puddles right near the entrance threshold.

Combination of drainage and storm sewers

There are some guidelines for properly installing drainage and stormwater. Drainage and stormwater systems should not be connected, which is due to the high load that can occur after heavy rain. Drainage should be installed at a great depth below the level of soil freezing (for more details: ""). The drainage trench must be backfilled with a layer of gravel and rubble so that the pipeline can withstand the load exerted by groundwater and melt water.

When laying drainage, a certain slope of about 2% must be observed. Drainage drains should be discharged into a ditch or nearby body of water. The storm drain in a private house is usually located on top of the drainage system, that is, the latter is installed first. In any case, both systems must be at a sufficient depth so that their elements do not freeze during the cold season.

There are some tips that will make it easier to install your storm drain. The amount of excavation can be reduced by laying the drainage and stormwater system in the same trench (without combining them). The need for separate laying of systems was mentioned above: this was done to prevent overloading of the structure during floods or rainstorms.

The drainage trench should be deep enough to take into account the depth of soil freezing. In addition, it is important to take into account the thickness of the layer of sand or gravel when arranging a trench. The slope of the drainage trench is usually about 2 degrees.

The laying of pipes for storm sewers must also be carried out at a sufficient depth, and when arranging two systems in one trench, this nuance must be taken into account. All pipelines that transport water must ultimately be connected to a collector that will provide temporary storage and further drainage of water to the reservoir.

When a storm drain is built around the house, it is imperative to test it. To do this, you need to pour at least a bucket of water into each funnel and watch how the water passes through the system to make sure that it reaches its final destination.

Conclusion

The device of storm water around the house is not difficult, it can be created even in the absence of deep knowledge of construction. It is enough just to precisely follow the algorithm for the construction of the system, to design it with high quality and carefully perform all the work. As a result of all these actions, the storm sewer will ensure the drainage of water from the territory of the site, and the objects located on it will not be threatened with flooding, and it will be much easier for the residents of the house to move around the territory that is not flooded with numerous puddles.