When working with wood, in addition to simple sawing and trimming operations, there are rather complex procedures. finishing... These include grinding.
Planing is carried out, if possible, before grinding. At this stage of processing, the burrs are removed, the surface acquires an even appearance. When planing using a planer (a machine that allows you to get workpieces of the same thickness and width), a semi-finished product of the given parameters is obtained.
High-quality finishing is carried out on hard types of wood, which are used for the manufacture of products High Quality... Birch, oak, ash, maple, walnut, apple, cherry and others have a dense structure. It can even be difficult to cut such material with an ordinary hacksaw. But in furniture production they are used to make a wide variety of pieces of furniture and interior design.
Even traditional pine, spruce and aspen also require high-quality sanding finishes. For example, leveling floorboards with a hand or electric tool, they achieve a single plane. Difficult and unproductive work, but without it you cannot achieve good quality.
What is grinding
In cutting theory, the cutter is considered when defining the tool to carry out the process itself. It has cutting edges. They are introduced into the body of the processed material. The features of the entry of the cutter into the material, as well as the formation of chips, depend on the sharpening angles.
When it comes to the grinding method of processing, then here we observe the work of not one cutter, but several at once. Their number is often measured in thousands. The more small cutters are simultaneously involved in the work, the higher the quality of the processed surface. The abrasive grains act as cutters - these are grains of sand, having a rather high hardness, glued to paper or fabric.
To classify grinding tools, they introduced the concept of the number of grains 1 square centimeter. For example, in the designation P36 it is meant that on average there are 36 grains per square centimeter. If the abrasive is designated P200, then, accordingly, there are on average 200 grains per square centimeter.
When a part needs to be roughed and a fairly thick layer needs to be removed, abrasive materials with a small number of grains are used. With an increase in the quality of the processed surface, the size of the grains themselves decreases, and their number increases.
Attention! Rapid clogging occurs when using abrasives with a high grain count. To increase the duration of use, it is recommended to regularly shake off the sanding paper. Then it will have to be replaced less often. finishing works conduct an audit of the abrasive material. Estimate the amount of emery cloth available.
Coarse sanding is also carried out using stiff brushes. They are made from spring wire. With the help of such a tool, brushing (artificial aging of a tree) is performed.
Instead of wire, plastic bristles are used to sand the logs. It is made from a rigid fishing line with a diameter of 3.0 ... 4.5 mm. To increase productivity, such brushes are made on discs.
Hand pads for sanding wood
When processing any board, you can rub with sandpaper over the surface. There will be some result. Only the hand will get tired rather quickly, and the abrasive will heat up, it will become inconvenient to hold it.
For fixing, many use a regular block. A piece of sandpaper is wrapped around it. For the simplest work, this is enough. However, real craftsmen make more convenient devices (Fig. 1).
The sanding pad is made in the following sequence.
Rice. 1 Wedge-mounted sanding pad
A simpler shoe can be made using two self-tapping screws and two paper clips (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2 Sanding block with self-tapping screws and clothespins
Rice. 3 Sanding block for large concave surfaces When working with a tree, sometimes it is necessary to process not only planes. Often, to give the original shape, curved grooves are cut or give a complex shape. In order to grind the surface in this case too, the pads are made with a curved working surface (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).
Rice. 4 Sanding block for small radius concave surfaces If it becomes necessary to obtain a strict angle, then use the corner block (Fig. 5). It has only one work surface. The other surface is used for curing exact angle... Most often they are made for processing at right angles (90 °), but you can make such a grinding device at any desired angle. 
Rice. 5 Angle sanding block
Mechanized wood sanding
Handicraft is appreciated. But when using the simplest means of mechanization, wood processing is faster. The most widespread for grinding various materials are elastic supports for an electric drill (Fig. 6) and an angle grinder (Fig. 7) with Velcro. Somewhat later, support manufacturers began to implement a similar universal support (Fig. 8).
Rice. 7 Elastic support with Velcro for angle grinder (grinder)
Important! When using such a support on the grinder, you should not press it strongly against the surface to be treated. The speed of the working body is high, wood burning is possible
Rice. 8 Universal elastic support with Velcro for electric drill or angle grinder When working with such means of mechanization, safety rules should be observed strictly.
- A lot of wood dust is generated, so a respirator and goggles will protect the organs of vision and breathing.
- Gloves with a rubber work surface will protect the hands of the worker.
- It is advisable to wear an apron, then it is easier to shake out the dust from the clothes.
For work with elastic support, special grinding wheels are produced (Fig. 9). They are put on and off in one motion.
Rice. 9 Replacement abrasive discs for power tools Vibration grinders
For processing large areas wooden surface it is convenient to use a vibrating grinder (fig. 10). It has a vibrator that causes the sole to make small reciprocating movements relative to the body. A strip of abrasive cloth is attached to the sole. It grinds the surface under the sole of the tool.
Rice. 10 Vibro Sander The performance of such small electrical machines is quite high. For an hour of work, you can finish several square meters surface. The only drawback is that they need to be stopped after 5 ... 7 minutes of operation. The vibrator needs to be cooled. It has no fans.
Sandpaper of different roughness can be attached to the sole. Manufacturers recommend using a cloth-based abrasive. Then it lasts longer.
Belt Sanders
The most productive are belt grinders. They use abrasive paper glued into a tape (Fig. 11). All such tools are equipped with a small bag for collecting wood dust. During operation, more than 80% of the generated dust accumulates inside this bag.
Rice. 11 Belt sander
Manufacturers recommend intermittent operation: sand for 5 ... 7 minutes, and then give the tool a break. Even the presence of a fan inside does not effectively cool the device. After a three-minute break, you can continue to work.
Manufacturers supply the tool with accessories that can be used to fix the grinder in space (Fig. 12).
Rice. 12 Installing the belt sander on the table Craftsmen for belt sanders make special underframes, with the help of which the field of application of the devices is significantly expanded (Fig. 13). With the help of such options, it becomes possible to qualitatively grind the ends of products. The underframe itself is fixed at any angle, which will allow high-quality processing.
Rice. 13 Underframe for belt sander The industry produces stationary belt sanders (Fig. 14). They are called grinders. With the help of such devices, it becomes possible to grind products, resting them on a special support table. A grinder is a lot like a belt sander. In fact, it is a stationary machine where you can carry out fairly complex wood finishing operations.
Rice. 14 Grinder Flap Grinding Tools
Another great class are special petals. They are made in radial (Fig. 15) and end (Fig. 16) designs. They are quite easy to use. The surface of the wood can be easily and quickly processed with such a tool.
These abrasive drums and discs are mounted on drills and grinders. Craftsmen adapt them to specialized woodworking machines.
Video: High-quality wood sanding
Wood has many useful qualities and aesthetic properties and, thanks to them, is the most demanded material in the construction and decoration of houses.
In the production of wooden, finishing panels, it is not always possible to obtain a perfectly flat surface, on the boards there are practically invisible (but clearly visible after painting) waves from the machine, in the case of a wooden floor there are drops at the joints.
All these errors can be easily corrected by grinding, a medium abrasive will smooth them out, and a smaller one will finally remove them. And in this article, we will analyze with you which tool is better to use to effectively solve various problems.
Pre-sanding tools for wood
Belt sander (LSHM) with the help of which it is good to do rough grinding on molded products. By the way, the larger the lower part of the machine, on which the tape runs, the smoother the grinding will be, and also pay attention to the speed, too small for inexpensive models will not allow you to achieve the standard.
Photo 1. Belt sander (LSHM)
Straight sander (PSHM) or vibration is a great option for fine processing. The back-and-forth motion of the sole with the abrasive pad quickly removes the top layer of the wood. For corners, you will need a version of it - a delta sander with a sole in the form of an iron.
Photo 2. Straight grinder (PSHM)
Eccentric (orbital) sander (ESHM)- an even better option than PSHM. Thanks to the reciprocating motion and the offset of the center of rotation, it allows processing at a very high level. Wheels for it can be purchased from 80 to 320 units, i.e. this tool allows you to independently complete all the steps.
Photo 3. Eccentric (orbital) sander
Angle grinder (angle grinder) using a grinder, you can remove a fairly large layer of wood or old paint(for example, during restoration). Also for this type of tool there is a great variety of attachments (brush, disc, petal). This means that you can grind even the most hard-to-reach places, for example, between two chamfers of the imitation of a bar.
Photo 4. Angle grinder (angle grinder)
Grinding and calibrating machine. In factories, it is used for preliminary grinding. The pressing iron allows you to remove a fixed layer of wood, to open the pores. Not suitable for intermediate work.
Photo 5. Grinding and calibrating machine
Abrasive bar, sandpaper of different grain size on the pads, metal wool - all this is indispensable for various chamfers, roundings, hard-to-reach places and corners. And with the help of these simple pieces, you can easily perform intermediate sanding, shake off the raised pile from the face.
Photo 6. Abrasive stone for grinding
Rules to follow
Before starting work, it is necessary to evaluate the material, which must be necessarily dry (no more than 14%), the high moisture content of the material will certainly affect the quality of the grinding.
If during the inspection you find cobweb-like cracks, traces of a cutter, irregularities, then you should take an abrasive from sixty to eighty units and in the process perform grinding with one hundred and twentieth, one hundred and fifty grains. This is the standard when small grain removes traces of large grain. Those. the best result can be achieved by using two or even three tapes of different grain sizes.
Specialists always perform these operations if wood with a thickness of 16 mm or more, and a thinner material, for example, 13 mm thick lining, is ground only with a medium-sized abrasive (120-150), otherwise the thickness can be greatly reduced and after processing paintwork materials, bending and twisting can be obtained. It is worth knowing that soft woods, which are easy to process, need to be sanded very carefully, because any press will leave a mark, a dent, which will appear after painting.
Grinding wheels, belts, sandpaper must be changed during operation, because their wear will sharply worsen the quality of work. If visible stripes remain on the surface, then it is worth taking a rag and removing dust from the surface as often as possible. When using LSHM and ESHM, do not hold the tool in one place. You need to work with these machines intensively. Otherwise, "dips" on the face of the board are guaranteed to you.
A little practical secret: to smooth the surface, take a regular pencil and apply strokes. With proper processing, they will completely disappear.
We hope that our advice will help you choose the right tools for your sanding and make it with quality. Remember that 70% of paint success depends on pre-treatment. Almost all troubles can be avoided at this stage, but at this stage they can be laid down.
Sandpaper is the material that is almost always listed in any of our decoupage master classes. It would seem that you can write about it, because everything is extremely simple - sandpaper or sandpaper is used to grout irregularities and roughness of the surface in order to give it ideal (well, or close to ideal!) Smoothness.
But people who are new to creative work have many different questions about materials and their correct use. Therefore, today we will talk about sandpaper, its types of grain, and how to properly sand different surfaces.
"Sandpaper" differs in grain size and base on which the abrasive is applied.
Paper base is the most common and cheapest option. Tears easily into pieces of different sizes, can be very fine-grained, which is ideal for final sanding. However, this option can be considered a one-off: tore off a piece, smoked it, threw it away. It clogs up and abrades very quickly.
Tissue the base is a much more wear-resistant material. Most often, it is impregnated with special resins, which adds moisture-repellent properties to it. After one use, it can be rinsed with water, dried and reused. It is more plastic, it can be bent and hard-to-reach places can be skinned with it, for example, slots in carved caskets or boards.
There is also Tocombined base (paper + fabric) - the most expensive "sandpaper". From the fabric, she took elasticity and water-repellent properties, and from paper - the ability to apply the finest abrasive.
There are also useful materials such as:
grinding stones- very convenient for sanding large flat surfaces. Can be washed and reused.
abrasive (grinding) sponges- ideal for grinding complex, voluminous, spherical, embossed surfaces.
Classification of sandpaper by grit
There are various standards for grading sandpaper by grit. Much depends on the country and the year of production. In the international classification for abrasive materials, the following designation is adopted: the letter P (denotes that it is a material with a flexible base. For materials that are not on a flexible basis, the letter F is used) and a number that denotes the grain size.
From small numbers to large numbers, the graininess decreases.
P40 - P60... It is used for primary rough processing of wood. Such paper should be used if there are any knots or chips on the surface, strong irregularities.
P70 - P120... Basic surface cleaning work. Removing the old paint or varnish layer.
P150 - P180... Final surface treatment before applying decor, primer, paint.
P220 - P360... Great for intermediate sanding steps. For example, sanding between layers during varnishing, for sanding the paint layer.
"Sandpaper" with numbers from 400 used mostly for surface polishing, if necessary.
Types of sandpaper with grain size from 1000 are mainly used only in the professional activities of auto repair shops, carpentry, furniture shops, etc.
Separately, I would like to talk about such a convenient thing as an emery paper holder. In cases where you have to grind large and flat surfaces, you just can't do without it!
A holder (or grater) for sandpaper is a solid block of plastic with clips that fix the sandpaper.
How to sandpaper properly?
In the correct sanding process, it is important to remember the main thing:
You need to start with coarse-grained sandpaper, and end with fine-grained;
After sanding, be sure to brush off the resulting dust or wipe the product with a damp cloth.
1. Surface preparation.
To find sandpaper for sanding wooden the surface that you plan to prepare for work and make it even for applying subsequent decor, you need to assess the quality of the workpiece with which you will work. Sometimes it happens that the piece of wood is initially very good and smooth, then you can either skip the sanding process, or slightly walk with a very fine sandpaper, more for decency than necessary :)
If the wood is bad, with irregularities, chips, scratches or knots - we adhere to the above rule: first level the surface with coarse-grained sandpaper (P70 - P120), then go to fine (P150 - P220). Sometimes coarse grained paper will cause very severe scratches, and this is intimidating to many beginners, but don't worry - subsequent sanding with fine paper will remove them.
Sometimes, when you have to work with smooth and sliding surfaces (for example, decoupage on metal or plastic), for better adhesion of materials, it is recommended to lightly walk with fine-grained paper over the surface. But here the situation is different, it is important not to give smoothness, but, on the contrary, to add scratches so that further layers of soil and paint will better catch on a slippery surface.
2. Interlayer sanding of primer and paint.
Interlayer sanding of the surface is, in principle, not necessary, but many do it, as this allows you to keep the product smooth and even throughout the entire process of work, to remove traces from a brush or sponge.
For interlayer sanding of primer or paint, P220 - P360 paper is suitable. In interlayer sanding, it is very important that all previous layers are thoroughly dried (otherwise the "sandpaper" will easily lead the wet paint, or tear the decoupage napkin. If you use a hair dryer to dry the materials, it is important to let the product cool down completely after heating!
Please note that some manufacturers' sandpaper may color the product in the color of its base!
3. Final interlayer sanding in the varnishing process.
This is the most crucial step. It is best to use P360 - P400 paper as a coarse skin. This graininess is best to remove varnish drips and give the surface a final evenness.
In the role of fine-grained paper, we use P400 - P800 paper. Do not be afraid of the whitish plaque that appears after sanding - the next layer of varnish, which lies on the sanded surface, will remove it.
There is no need to sand the final layer of the finishing varnish. But it can be polished with a felt or felt disc.
Natural wood floors have long been very popular. Modern technologies and new Decoration Materials are able to give such floors any colors and shades, but at the same time preserve the unique texture of the wood. But before starting to cover the base with various compounds, the wood floor is polished. This procedure is indispensable to obtain a high quality surface.
She will also help in the restoration of old wood flooring... After carrying out these activities, even the oldest floor will be able to look as good as new.
Why sand a wood floor
What would be decorative or protective treatment has not been applied to the floor surface, the coating will wear off where people regularly walk. Paints and varnishes are erased in whole areas, and also crack. As a result, the floor becomes stained. But that's not all - the tree is also not eternal. Dents and gaps form on the floorboard.
You can revive the old coating by sanding. This procedure also does not fit new, just laid boards - boards without grinding will not fit as necessary. The surface treated in this way will be perfectly flat. After sanding, all that remains is to cover the surface with varnish or paint.
We select tools and equipment
After batten stacked, a popular question often arises. What can be used to polish a wooden floor? Unfortunately, you cannot get a high-quality surface by hand. For these purposes, use special machines for wood.
In the case of log floors with a board thickness of 30 mm or more, it is recommended to use drum-type systems. They are quite heavy, so the floor should be as strong as possible.
If parquet is laid on the floor, then a surface grinder should be prepared. It is lightweight so it won't damage your expensive coating. In some cases, if you cannot get a specialized tool, they use a conventional grinder equipped with a petal circle. The circle is quite tough, so even serious defects can be easily dealt with.
In addition, in addition to the main machine, an additional one may be needed. In this case, the main one will be able to cover the main surface of the room, and the second, additional and smaller one, will help to process hard-to-reach areas.
Also, in addition to grinding equipment, you will need a cycle and sandpaper. In addition to all this, a vacuum cleaner is definitely needed as an additional equipment - it will protect against harmful dust.
Grinding equipment
All machines have a different principle of operation, but they do the same thing - they remove a thin layer of wood using abrasive materials. There are several types according to the principle of action:
- Drum grinder. It consists of a shaft on which abrasive tools are installed;
- Belt devices - they have two shafts on which the grinding belt rotates;
- Surface grinders work with special cylinders with abrasive pads;
- Vibrating equipment works on the principle of translational movements.
Each group of equipment has advantages and disadvantages, as well as operating features. In order to choose what can then be used to polish the wooden floor, you should know the characteristics of these units.
Drum type machines
A group of equipment is used for roughing or primary machining. Depending on the model, these devices can also be looped. With the help of these units, you can carry out a rough scraping, remove the old paintwork, and also level the surface.
The machine works by rotating the drum through a belt drive from the engine. The belt is installed on a shaft and under the weight of the machine is pressed very tightly to the floor.
Such models often have high power, large dimensions and serious weight. During their operation, thick layers of wood are removed - therefore, most models have special dust collectors. Machines of this type are equipped with coarse-grained abrasives, therefore, they are suitable only for rough processing.
Belt equipment
These machines are used for pre-scraping the floor. Models have some advantages over drum models. So, the dust collector is more efficient here. The same tape acts as a working element, but there are no joints in it, so the surface after processing will be of a higher quality.
Surface grinders
Among the characteristics is an adjustable degree of impact. This group of tools is already intended for secondary floor treatment. In most cases, these aggregates can be divided into devices for large surfaces and manual aggregates for hard-to-reach places.
Good models have three discs that rotate on an inner axle. This allows you to increase efficiency and processing area. The only drawback is the impossibility of processing near the walls.
Vibrating devices
The main feature of the equipment is its compactness and versatility. The secondary layer is removed by the movement of the sole. Many modern models have the ability to adjust the vibrations. The equipment works well for regular wood flooring, but for parquet floors, you should look for something else.
Preparing the grounds for work
In order to get an excellent result after sanding the wooden floor, the base and the room are pre-prepared. All furniture is taken out of the room, as well as curtains and other decorative ornaments and elements. The room must be completely empty. The windows and outer door open to allow dust to escape unhindered. If the room has inner door, it is better to seal the gaps with tape.
Every plank on the floor should be carefully inspected for all kinds of defects such as rot, cracks. Bad boards are removed and replaced with new ones. If the board is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, the caps are sunk into the wood by about 2 mm.
If there are gaps between the floorboard, then it is recommended to remove the entire covering and reposition it. If there are few gaps, then wood and glue can be dispensed with. If you run your hand over the floor surface, nails and screws should not be felt. For comfort during work, skirting boards are also removed.
Grinding technology
Before you start sanding a wooden floor, professionals recommend installing an abrasive belt with abrasive No. 40 in the machine. This is a rather rough processing, however, this is only the first, rough stage.
In the course of work, remove all old coatings and other irregularities. Owners of new floors can skip this step. The entire floor surface in the room is traversed by the machine from 2 to 4 times, depending on the desired result. After working on one lane, the machine is installed on the second with the condition that half of the circle is on the processed part. This is how the entire area of the room is polished.
Next - fine sanding of the wooden floor and abrasive No. 60. With its help, all scratches are processed. Then set # 80 and again pass over the entire area at least 2 times. The final stage is emery No. 120 and finishing - as a result, the surface should almost shine.
During operation, the abrasive will wear out - it should be changed regularly. The engine of the machine should be turned on or off only in motion, otherwise traces will remain on the surface, which will be extremely difficult to remove.
Work in hard-to-reach places
Each apartment has such places. Often, this is the surface of the floor under radiators, stairs, in corners and similar places. Here the process can also be mechanized. For this, there are compact cars that have just such a specialization.
After the first roughing pass, hard-to-reach places are treated with the same abrasive. This will not be difficult with compact modern equipment.
At this point, the process can be completed. No visible or invisible defects will remain on the treated surface. The floor will be smooth and shiny.
Now all that remains is to carefully remove the sawdust, vacuum the room well, and you can process the wood with paint and varnish coatings. The first coat can be applied on the day of sanding.
It turns out that sanding a wooden floor with your own hands is not difficult. With modern equipment, the process will not take much time. Do not be afraid of high prices for power tools - such units can always be rented.
Sanding technology allows you to get a beautiful wood texture even from an old dilapidated floor with little or no investment. The new floors will look like a real luxury finish.
All photos from the article
It may seem strange to sophisticated people, but the question of how to sand a tree is quite relevant. Therefore, it needs to be given due attention. We will provide you with all the possible answers on the topic, as well as show a visual video in this article.
Different ways of sanding wood
Classification of sandpaper and types of abrasive
Note. Basically all sandpaper is graded by grit. That is, by the size of the abrasive grain.
| Appointment | Marking (GOST 3647-80) | Marking (ISO-6344) | Grain number (μm) |
| Coarse paper | |||
Roughing |
80-N | P22 | 800-1000 |
| 63-N | P24 | 630-800 | |
| 50-N | P36 | 500-630 | |
|
Rough processing |
40-N | P40 | 400-500 |
| 32-H | P46 | 315-400 | |
| 25-N | P60 | 250-315 | |
|
Primary grinding |
20-N | P80 | 200-250 |
| 16-H | P90 | 160-200 | |
| 12-H | P100 | 125-160 | |
| 10-H | P120 | 100-125 | |
| Finish and paint | 8-H | P150 | 80-100 |
| 6-H | P180 | 63-80 | |
| Fine grain paper | |||
| Polishing and wet sanding at the finish | 5-H, M63 | P240 | 50-63 |
| 4-H, M50 | P280 | 40-50 | |
| For metal, plastic and ceramics | М40 \ Н-3 | P400 | 28-40 |
| Finest sanding and polishing | M28 \ N-2 | P600 | 20-28 |
| M20 \ N-1 | P1000 | 14-20 | |
| M14 | P1200 | 10-14 | |
| M10 / N-0 | P1500 | 7-10 | |
Marking and grit table
Electrocorundum:
- a charge of bauxite agglomerate, iron shavings and carbonaceous material is melted in arc furnaces, from which an electrocorundum abrasive is obtained;
- it has a high density and excellent cutting ability, but in some cases these properties are improved by adding alloying additives to the size, for example, chromium oxide (the abrasive in this case has a ruby color, as in the photo above);
- emery paper with aluminum oxide is the most commonly produced.
Silicon carbide:
- to obtain an abrasive in Acheson furnaces, graphite is sintered with silica, resulting in shiny crystals of irregular shape with sharp edges;
- silicon corundum is convenient because the crystals split during operation and form new cutting edges. This property allows you to preserve the working surface for a long time, avoiding clogging.
Garnet:
- for grinding wood, pomegranate is the highest quality abrasive, despite its softness (6.5-7.5 according to Mohs);
- the paper wears out quite quickly, but due to the same grain size, sanding gives a smoother surface compared to other abrasives.
Almaz, elbor:
- diamond has the highest hardness and elbor is slightly inferior to it in this, therefore, such abrasives can be called the best in the world;
- the problem is that the price of these minerals is too high, so they are rarely used for sanding paper.
Sanding methods
Note. For sanding wood, the instruction recommends two main methods for use - manual and mechanical. But each of them has several options, which we will now talk about.
The most common is manual method sanding wood, and this is not surprising despite the technical progress. The fact is that it is often necessary to process rather small, hard-to-reach or embossed surfaces, where it is impossible to get close to various electrical devices.
For embossed surfaces, of course, it is better not to use anything at all and hold the paper in your hand - the skin on the wood will repeat all the bends that you will feel with your fingers. So the processing will be of the highest quality.
In extreme cases, a piece of foam rubber is placed between the fingers and the paper - the sensitivity, of course, decreases. But, nevertheless, such a device is able to bend around all contours, for example, on a baguette or plinth, evenly grinding the surface.
For flat surfaces, an ordinary block is often used, wrapping it with sandpaper. So you get two flat planes - one being processed, and the other affecting, which leads to the highest production efficiency.
And, of course, there is a special device for this, called a block. The sheet is simply stretched on it using clamps located along the upper edges of the board - this device is shown in the top photo.
If it is provided for a large area, then in such cases you can use an angle grinder (angle grinder) - a grinder or a milling cutter, on which a special round (disc) nozzle is put on, where there is a Velcro on the working side.
Then, sandpaper of the desired grit is applied to this disc. But such a device is effective for rough processing, for example, when grinding log or squared buildings.
Better wood surface treatment can be done using tape grinder, but it is intended exclusively for flat surfaces. For example, if you need to grind the floor with your own hands, then directly about handmade this is out of the question because of the too large processing area.
But the car can handle it pretty quickly. A narrow paper (specially made for this purpose) of the desired grain size is put on the broaching mechanism - the grinding is of high quality.
Conclusion
We hope you figured out how to skin the wood properly, and all you have to do is find the right grain of the paper. But if you still have questions, then you can ask our specialists in the comments section - we are ready to answer all questions.
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