Insulation of walls inside a frame house. How to properly insulate a frame house. Foam and EPS use

Frame houses differ from the rest in the design of the outer walls. There is no basic building material like brick or wooden houses, and thermal insulation does not go as a second layer according to the technology of a curtain or wet facade. And the insulation frame house mineral wool can be considered as an in-situ assembly of a sandwich panel with a core insulation and thin sheathing.

Features of warming a frame house

Insulation of any building should be comprehensive - from the foundation to the roof. Frame houses are no exception.

Only an integrated approach to insulation will give a real effect.

These are light houses that do not need a strong foundation, and if the project does not include a basement or basement, then in most cases a pile foundation is installed. And in order to reduce heat loss through it, they equip an insulated filling (base).

Usually, the floor insulation of a frame house is carried out according to the traditional scheme, in which wooden floor beams and logs act as load-bearing elements, and mineral wool is mounted between them. So that the insulation does not "fall out", it is held from below by a filing made of boards (alternatively, a mesh is used). A subfloor is laid on top, as the basis for the topcoat.

Warming of frame walls with mineral wool occurs according to the following scheme: it is laid between the racks and spacers, which are sheathed with sheet materials or a board. The cross-section of the timber for the uprights determines the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but this condition is not the main one when choosing the size of the load-bearing elements. For the strength of the walls of a frame house, especially a one-story house, a rack with a section of 50x150 mm is sufficient. For southern regions with "mild" winters, this thickness of mineral wool is quite enough. But for the rest of the regions it is not enough.

Scheme of a frame wall with a bar with a height of 150 mm

The use of a beam with a height of 200 mm is often excessive in terms of the load-bearing properties of the frame, and in such cases it is more economical to perform additional external insulation.

Important! What thickness of layers of mineral wool is necessary for warming a house can only be shown by a calculation carried out on the basis of the current standard, taking into account the characteristics of the region and the properties of all enclosing surfaces

Roof insulation depends on the nature of the operation of the attic. Non-residential, or "cold" attics are insulated only on the floor. For attics and operated attics, in which engineering equipment is installed (for example, hydraulic accumulators, ventilation and cooling systems), the roof itself is insulated.

From the point of view of heat engineering, the walls of a frame house are single-layer. In order for them to become three-layer (structural material / insulation / structural material), the thickness of the outer layers of the enclosing surface must be more than 50 mm with a ratio to the thickness of the insulation of at least 1 / 1.25 (clause 8.11 SP 23-101-2004) ... But in reality, the structure of the walls of a frame house contains 5 main layers, not counting the decoration of the facade and interior. A vapor barrier film (from the side of the room) and a waterproofing membrane (from the side of the street) are placed between the cladding and the thermal insulation. And this arrangement is dictated by the properties of mineral wool.

Thanks to this property, it is even used in fire-prevention structures - doors and partitions.

For wooden structures, this quality is important, therefore mineral wool is the main type of thermal insulation for floors on logs, pitched roofs and walls. frame houses... Although mineral wool "loses" in terms of thermal insulation properties of polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) and expanded polystyrene (extruded polystyrene foam).

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its ability to absorb water. The fiber itself does not get wet, but this is facilitated by the structure of the material. And when it gets wet, the heat-insulating properties of the material are lost and conditions for rotting of the wooden structure appear. To compensate for this disadvantage, two additional layers are used:

to prevent the penetration of water vapors with warm air from inside the heated room - vapor barrier;
to protect against water ingress from the facade and weathering excess moisture- waterproofing membranes.

What kind of mineral wool is used to insulate a frame house

The term "mineral" extends to three different material: glass wool, slag wool and stone wool. For the insulation of residential buildings, including frame houses, the latter option is used.

Glass wool is fragile, and during installation, fine "dust" from broken fibers is formed, which poses a danger not only to workers, but also to residents. The slag has low ecological qualities.

Mineral wool for a frame house can have different densities depending on the type of surface to be insulated and the method of insulation.

The range of mineral wool is so wide that it can be used to insulate any enclosing surfaces and structures

Important! Stone wool is a special material. Its thermal conductivity does not directly depend on density - the structure and production technology are important. Therefore, hard boards or mats can have better thermal insulation properties than soft roll materials.

By the type of enclosing surface, the following types of materials are used:

rigid slabs - concrete floor on the ground, reinforced concrete floor on strip foundation above the basement or basement (for laying floor tiles);
semi-rigid slabs and mats - frame walls, attic or roof of an exploited attic;
mats and rolls - wooden floors on logs and ceilings.

Note. When choosing the density of mineral wool for the walls of a frame house, there are certain restrictions. For "internal" insulation, materials with a density of 35-50 kg / m 3 are recommended, for external (using the ventilated facade technology) - at least 80-90 kg / m 3. For wooden floors and there are no such restrictions, you can use mineral wool of any density, and the main criterion is how much such a heater costs.

Description of the warming process

When insulated with mineral wool different types of the enclosing surfaces of the frame house, its own insulation scheme is used. But as for frame walls, one thing works general rule- the vapor barrier of the insulation is carried out from the side of the heated room.

The vapor barrier is laid in a continuous layer without "gaps" between the surfaces to be insulated

Floor slab above the basement

In the event that a basement is provided in the project of a frame house, a strip foundation is used as the base.

The standard scheme for insulating the concrete floor of the first floor with mineral wool for laying floor tiles is as follows:

Level the surface of the slab with a screed.
Lay a waterproofing layer.
Rigid slabs of mineral wool are laid (with a density of 150 kg / m 3).
The insulation is covered with a continuous layer of vapor barrier film.
A cement-sand screed is poured as a sub-floor.
Mount the floor covering.

Note... To lay the parquet on top of the screed, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are additionally attached.

Insulated concrete floors on the ground have a similar structure.

The scheme of insulation of a concrete floor on the ground

When arranging a wooden sub-floor, the insulation scheme looks like this:

Overlapping.
Waterproofing.
Lags.
Mineral wool between the lags.
Vapor barrier.
Planks or plywood as a base for a topcoat.

Hardwood flooring of the first floor

The traditional scheme of a wooden floor looks like this:

The load-bearing floor beams resting on the foundation (the beam of the lower strapping on the grillage or the base of the strip base).
Additional logs and crossbars, which are mounted taking into account the area of the room and the thickness of the subfloor boards.
Skull bars fixed at the bottom of the beams, logs and crossbars.
Lining from a board to support the waterproofing of the insulation.
Waterproofing membrane.
Mineral wool, laid between the elements of the floor.
Vapor barrier.
Rough floor.

If the height of the subfloor allows you to mount the filing from below, then you can do without the cranial bar.

Note. There are other insulation schemes. For example, they use a mesh that allows you to fully use the entire volume of the floor for insulation. Or the arrangement of an additional counter-lattice and another layer of floor insulation for frame houses in regions with cold winters.

Insulation of the facade of a frame house

External insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is usually carried out according to the ventilated facade scheme:

A crate is mounted for laying insulation. The height of the section of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool, the layout step is chosen 5 cm less than its width.
Mineral wool mats are laid and fixed to the crate.
A layer of waterproofing windproof membrane is fastened.
A counter-lattice is mounted. The height of the bar must be at least 6 cm (SNiP requirements for the size of the ventilated gap).
The walls are sheathed with facade panels.

One of the options for a double layer of thermal insulation - internal (between the posts) and external (along the crate)

Insulation of a cold attic

In this case, it is not the roof that is insulated, but the wooden floor. And the vapor barrier is laid in such a way as to protect not only mineral wool, but also wooden beams from getting wet. The classic scheme looks like this:

On the floor beams, a hemmed ceiling is mounted, to which a vapor barrier is attached from below with a continuous layer. These can be both anti-condensation and reflective vapor-proof materials.
Between the beams, from the attic, on false ceiling lay mineral wool.
A waterproofing membrane is attached to the beams.

Note. According to the standards, waterproofing of the insulation of the cold attic is recommended only along the perimeter with a width of at least 1 m.

If the thickness of the insulation occupies the entire "internal" volume of the floor, then spacer slats are mounted on top of the beams to create a ventilated gap.
The floor is mounted on the beams (or spacer slats).

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be carried out in two main ways:

With one ventilated gap between the waterproofing and the roof. A superdiffusion membrane is used, which is laid directly on top of the insulation.
With two ventilated gaps. The first is between the insulation and the waterproofing film, the second is between the film and the roof. It is applied for metal roof when waterproofing materials with limited vapor permeability are used.

Standard insulated roof layout with waterproofing membrane and one ventilated gap

The structure of the insulated roof from the attic (attic) side looks like this:

Internal sheathing fixed to the lathing.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation placed between the rafter legs.
Waterproofing attached to rafters (one ventilated gap) or to a spacer rail (two ventilated gaps).
Roof lathing.

Frame houses are a multi-layer structure with a complex wall made of several materials. One of the main materials of the wall is insulating. Most often it is mineral wool or foam, which is laid directly on the frame, between its timber. This is the so-called internal insulation. However, sometimes there is a need for additional external insulation of the house (outside).

Material selection

Despite the abundance of materials for insulation, the choice practically consists of only two options:

insulate with foam
insulate with mineral wool

However, a more expensive method - insulation with penoplex plates - is also used, you can watch the video about it at the bottom of the article.

Each of these materials has both its fans and opponents.

Polyfoam for exterior decoration is chosen more often, and the reason for this is its moisture resistance. In our climate, where it constantly rains, then snow, then fogs cover - this is the best option... At the same time, the foam sheets additionally protect the OSB-plates, which cover the cake of the frame wall.

Polyfoam does not change its shape and appearance even after a long period of time, it is easy to lay it on the walls, since it is lightweight and does not require great physical strength.

And one more plus - it is easy to plaster the wall with foam plastic.

Mineral wool is used less often, but this material is quite suitable for exterior decoration, especially if for internal insulation you used cotton wool and decided to immediately order more material. When buying a large batch, many sellers offer a discount.

Mineral wool has one significant advantage compared to polystyrene, and this plus concerns the safety of the residents of the frame house. Mineral wool is made up of fibers that do not support combustion. For private housing, this is a huge plus, since fires, unfortunately, in summer cottages or in private sectors are not rare. Therefore, insulation of external walls with mineral wool is an additional protection of the house from fire.

The disadvantage of mineral wool in this case is its accumulation of moisture, which it absorbs like a sponge. After a while, unprotected mineral wool loses its appearance, cakes, holes appear in the insulation. To avoid this, external finishing will allow, which will prevent water from entering the inside of the insulation, and thereby extend the life of the frame house.

We lay the foam

Polyfoam is a simple and light material, and it is a pleasure to lay it. Especially if the walls of the frame house are flat, and you have at least some experience with this material. First you need to choose the right styrofoam in the store. There are a huge number of them, which differ from each other both in the density of the insulation and in the thickness. What kind of foam to choose for insulating a house from the outside?

So, first of all, let's look at the dimensions. They are standard and represent three size categories: 0.5x1 m, 1x1 m, 2x1 m. Small sheets are used to insulate small areas, for example, balconies, booths, etc. To insulate houses, it is better to choose sheets as large as possible, thereby avoiding large the number of joints.

The density of the foam board is determined by the size of the air space between the expanded polystyrene beads. There are the following markings: 15, 25, 35, 50. If foam 15 is also suitable for internal insulation of rooms, then for insulation of the facade of a frame building, which is often exposed to adverse effects in the form of rain, snow and temperature drops, a material with a density of 25-35 is suitable kg / cubic meter

Mineral wool also has different densities.

Laying the foam in two layers, it is worth covering the gaps between the sheets of the first row with plates. Then the building will be especially warm due to the absence of cold bridges.

More with insulation technology frame house can be found.

Step-by-step instruction

So, you decided to focus on the outside insulation of the frame, for these purposes you chose foam plastic and are you ready to start work? Then consider step by step instructions how to insulate a building from the outside.

Facade cleaning. Facade cleaning includes the removal of all protrusions, dirt, chips. The surface of the wall must be tidy, it must be flat and smooth. If you are insulating a new house that has not been finished, then the OSB boards themselves already have a flat and clean surface, so this stage can be skipped. Doi with plaster finishing also usually has smooth walls.
We install a level beam from below along the entire perimeter of the building, where wall insulation is planned. This beam is the reference for the laying of foam boards. The first row of foam is placed below it so that the styling is on the same level.
We start insulation from the outer corner of the building.
Apply a layer of polyurethane foam to the slab along the perimeter without interruption (inside the perimeter, it is advisable to draw two more lines cross-to-cross). On the one hand, the mounting foam creates a small air gap between the wall and the foam, moreover, it is airtight, and on the other hand, it ensures reliable fixation of the slab to the wall.
Additionally, we fix the slabs with front dowels with a large head. Their second name is fungi. They exclude slab displacement relative to the walls and provide additional fixation.
The joints between the slabs must be thoroughly foamed.
Very soft material easy to cut, therefore using construction knife we adjust the size to insulate the place near the doorway or window.

Read more about the insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam.

Thus, it can be seen that the process of insulating a frame building is not so difficult, and the work moves forward faster if you use large sheets.

Step-by-step instructions for laying mineral wool

The step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with mineral wool has much in common with instructions for insulating a frame building with foam outside.

Preparatory stage for leveling the walls.
Using the fishing line and a level, we nail a guide beam from below, on which we will put the first level of stone wool mats.
The insulation in the form of cotton wool is pressed against the wall with 75 mm self-tapping screws. Additionally, we fix the plates with washers (rondol) - fungi with a large cap. It is necessary to press tightly to avoid a gap between the wall and the insulation.
In order for the insulation to hold tight, it is necessary to install a horizontal top bar and vertical bars in addition to the wall. The vertical bar is attached from above to the upper horizontal bar, and from the bottom it stands on the lower guide.
Between the bars, the insulation is inserted as tightly as possible. The rondol additionally fixes the cotton wool, for which not self-tapping screws are used, but 120 mm nails.

If you want to use rolled cotton wool for external insulation, then first we fix it from above using a bar, and then we unwind the roll down. We also fix cotton wool at the bottom. The lathing will press the cotton wool against the wall and fix it in one place. Inexpensive cladding will keep the cotton wool dry.

Read more about insulation with mineral wool.

Best video:

They are collected in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not produce high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection building materials for warming frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

The first includes natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam, basalt, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast such qualities as:

good moisture resistance;
low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
no shrinkage and long service life;
easy to use;
safety for humans.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-proven method. The material has excellent sound absorption, retains heat well, and also has a high class of environmental friendliness.

Insulation of walls from the inside and outside

There is no particular difference where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside, there is no. Here it is more convenient to whom. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation is 600 mm wide. Therefore, when erecting the frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the uprights, the ideal spacing between them is 580-590 mm. This distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established standards, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it will be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the structure, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also the material is 100 mm. less prone to deflections and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening of vapor barrier and OSB boards

In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. For this from the inside wooden walls the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a regular stapler, we roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm... to the uprights. Make sure that the film is tightly adhered to the surface everywhere;
Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB plates, which will be the base under interior decoration... Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, cutting them off with an electric jigsaw if necessary.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite resilient, so no additional method of fastening is required to fix it, it is enough just to insert it between the posts. The plates must be held tightly there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contributes to the appearance of condensation and dampness on the inner surface finishing, as a consequence of which mold and mildew may appear.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. For this, by analogy with inner walls, the outer ones are sheathed in the same way.

A hydro-windproof membrane is used as a material, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and rain drops. For a secure connection of the membrane, fix it to the uprights with a counter crate.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for the finishing, it is necessary to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block of house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-lathing, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Insulation scheme in section

In case the walls are sheathed in any other finishing material(facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to OSB plates, walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces heat loss at home by 25-30 % , therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with full responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate the roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last a long time, the roofing cake must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and looks like this:

From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
Further, from the inside, in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation plates are laid. Pay special attention to the places of the gables and the ridge part of the roof;
The insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes overlapping from bottom to top 5 cm.;
The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (clapboard, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where the leak comes from 15-20% so precious in our time warmth. You can, of course, fork out and install a system in the house, especially since nowadays there is enough for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

Do not even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then on it he will take his first steps in life. Spending time on yoga and reading interesting books will be fun in addition to benefits.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the rough floor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
Between the lag for the floor, insulation is laid (thickness not less 200 mm.). To exclude the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation should exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

Overlapped insulation on top 5-10 cm... covered with a vapor barrier carpet;
Further, depending on floor covering, the floor is covered with sheets of plywood, or a finishing board is laid.

Conclusion

There are many different modern materials, which are suitable for the insulation of houses built on frame technology... However, numerous positive reviews from owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

For year-round operation of a frame house and its durable service, high-quality insulation is necessary. You need to insulate everything - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable for solving the problem, and what heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and give you step-by-step instructions on how to insulate a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built according to the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - fully comply with this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene and polymer-based analogs, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). As a result, the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
Secondly, polystyrene and its analogs do not allow the tree to "breathe". This leads to the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of mold and rotting of the structural elements.

Choosing how to insulate frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of the heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcomed:

fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
low thermal conductivity;
shrinkage resistance;
minimal water absorption.

Choosing the optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: low weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fiber insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmental friendliness and fire resistance

The main component of the insulation is rocks of volcanic origin: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is a completely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator retains its physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:

low thermal conductivity - 0.36-0.42 W / m * C;
resistance to mechanical stress;
good noise insulation characteristics;
resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide quick moisture removal. The basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg / cu. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool in comparison with fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool - elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of a heat insulator are glass breakage and sand. The addition of binders makes it possible to form rolls from the finest fiberglass. Approximate dimensions of mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.

Features of glass wool:

high elasticity - the material easily assumes and quickly restores the given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
vibration resistance;
not susceptible to mold formation and unattractive to rodents.

As well as stone wool, fiberglass is fireproof. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and a lot of "glass" dust is emitted during cutting.
Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of the formation of cold bridges increases.

Ecowool - versatility

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

Ecowool is a loose insulation, and therefore the technology of its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a heat-insulating layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
With poor-quality insulation of the walls of a frame house, there is risk of shrinkage of ecowool, which is fraught with the formation of non-insulated zones.
The material is not recommended for use near open sources of fire, chimneys and chimneys. A protective layer of basalt foil-clad refractory mats or a fence made of asbestos-cement slabs is required.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the possibility of insulation hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.

"Warm wood" - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented by mats and boards made of wood fiber materials... The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:

good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when moisture is absorbed in the amount of 20% of its own weight;
high strength and excellent sound insulation - protection against impact and "air" noise;
sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the frame racks without additional clamps;
environmental friendliness of the material and safety of installation work.

Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step by step instructions

In most cases for insulation frame structures used by mineral wool in the form of mats... Therefore, the subsequent instruction will be based on the work with this particular material.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It doesn't matter which side to start work - from the outside or from the inside. Some people think that it is more convenient to carry out thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

The standard structure of a thermal insulation cake with the sequence of layers from the inner cladding to the facade of the house:

Interior decoration.
OSB board.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation layer.
Windproof membrane.
Lathing made of bars for arranging a ventilation gap.
OSB board.
External cladding.

Recommended the pitch of the frame beams is 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard 60 cm wide mineral wool mats. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two standard sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out cracks polyurethane foam between the elements of the frame. Before attaching the insulation, it is necessary to check wooden structures for the presence of dampness, dry problem areas with a construction hairdryer.

Interior decoration: order of layers

First you need to prepare a base for laying insulation. From the inside of the house, this role will be performed by vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

Roll out a roll of insulating material and cut it to fit the walls of the house.
Fix the vapor barrier canvases one by one to the vertical racks of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: insulating strips are directed perpendicularly wooden beams, the minimum overlap is 10 cm.
Check the tightness of the protective layer.
Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
Fix the panels to the frame, overlapping the vapor barrier foil.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying the finishing of the walls.

Insulation installation rules

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of fastening with your own hands. Both heat insulators are resilient enough, so they do not need additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place due to the slight difference in dimensions.

So that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:

Laying is done in two layers, the slabs are staggered. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the joining seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" that contribute to the accumulation of condensation and moisture.
Insulation boards need protection from strong wind and precipitation. By analogy with the inner wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For a more secure attachment, you can use the counter-crate system.

Exterior wall cladding

Bars attached to the top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the thermal insulation material and the exterior trim. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding different types slabs of moisture-resistant OSB are nailed onto the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, natural stone or facade tiles fits directly onto oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of the roof of the house

High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thought-out and competently executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is the placement of mineral wool between the rafter legs. Roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe sequentially, how to properly insulate the roof:

Pull a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter batten.
From the inside rafter system lay the insulation. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation scheme is a checkerboard layout.
Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing horizontal laying vapor barrier from bottom to top. The overlap of the film insulation is 5-10 cm.
Sheathe the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
External finishing the roof is made on the counter-lathing. Sheathing beams are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards or roofing material (slate, corrugated board, metal or flexible tiles) are attached on top.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor

A lot of heat also goes through the base of the house - about 15-20% of the heat costs are on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize underfloor heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, walking along the joining lines.

Install a log system of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Cut the insulation under the cells in the logs. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. Insulation thickness - at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a fine plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for insulation of interfloor or attic floors.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. The mechanized backfill will provide the required density and uniformity of the paving.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

dry spray;
wet application;
glue method.

Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling floor slabs and non-separable structures. The density of ecowool laying with this method is 45-65 kg / cubic meter. m depending on the slope.

Wet technology suitable for vertical open walls. Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the insulating layer is about 65 kg / cubic meter. m.

The glue method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. The advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The glue method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for processing walls.

The issue of house insulation must be considered even at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically more correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to perform overhaul buildings after commissioning.

DIY video instruction on thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

One of the most wonderful options for your own home is a frame house. This is an excellent and comfortable home and also quite economical to build. However, the business is not limited to construction. It is necessary to complete the finishing to thoroughly insulate the house, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house, one can single out the fact that the walls are insulated directly during construction - this is primarily due to its design.

How to insulate a frame house: the choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in the wall cake. There are a wide variety of materials for this. Best suited for this activity:

Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

It is best to choose insulation from an environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
It must be resistant to moisture accumulation as well as fire.
Ease of installation on the frame of the building insulation.
The ratio of quality and price in insulation.
Fire safety.
Low thermal conductivity.
Strength, as well as non-susceptibility to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They can be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

Thermal insulation with board materials (foam, mineral wool, etc.).
Sprayed thermal insulation. This type of insulation is still quite rarely used due to its novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as a heater. The application process is similar to working with polyurethane foam.
Backfill technology. In this case, insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other filling materials.
Combined options can also be used. Often the following scheme can be used: mineral wool is laid inside, foam plastic outside, and then plaster.

The procedure for external insulation works

When carrying out work, precise insulation technology plays a paramount role. Any factors that can provide a positive end result of insulation should be taken into account, including the reasons that can lead to a negative result.

Hinged insulation method. In this case, the frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing is attached directly to the surface. It can be of a pasting and painting type. In the case of paint waterproofing, the walls are applied with bitumen after priming. In the case of pasting, using bituminous mastic, a waterproofing roll material, isol, waterproofing, fiberglass. Then, tapes or slabs of rolled insulation are attached to the frame cells, using special glue, or mounting dowels.

At the end of the work, the outer side of the frame is finished with decorative plates or panels. As a result, you can make fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

Polyfoam is the cheapest insulation for walls

The main advantage of hinged insulation is the ventilation system, which eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensate in the insulation layer.
Wet insulation method... This method is one of the cheapest, but at the same time, a rather laborious one. With the help of polymer glue, insulation plates are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then it is laid on it decorative plaster... This coating is also called "lightweight" plaster.
There is also "heavy" plaster... It will be more complicated, but in terms of its reliability and durability it will surpass the "lightweight" one. It is done as follows - insulation plates are attached to the wall using dowels, after which, using blocking plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed.
Thermal insulation of the house with fibreboard plates

Then comes the first layer of plaster. It dries up within 24 hours and expansion joints are made. This is followed by the second, as well as the leveling layer, in which temperature-shrinkage joints should be present. The last decorative, where dyes are added, is applied after five days.
Spraying liquid insulation... This method is the most progressive and modern. Polyurethane foam spraying is carried out using a special installation. A special feature is that the performance of such insulation is an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to the average insulation. After polyurethane foam, almost any cover can be used as decoration, including curtain panels.

Insulation applied by spraying

Facing method... This option is one of the most expensive, however, and the most decorative. Facing with materials can be carried out on the wall of the building, as well as over the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, but it is necessary to perform high-quality ventilation.

when performing work, it is important to accurately follow the insulation scheme.
in multilayer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the inner insulating layer does not damp and, accordingly, does not collapse.

Internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Sometimes there are situations when it is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool, due to the complexity of installation, are rarely used. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

The cladding of the inner surface of the walls is produced in various ways. Insulation can be done with reinforced plaster, then putty and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

You can also use clapboard, MDF and plastic finishing panels. The most common option is drywall upholstery followed by a decorative finish.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces of various configurations, it is able to fill all irregularities and defects. It is environmentally friendly and fire resistant, however main difficulty its application consists in the need for a special foam filling machine.

Read about the features in the next article.