How to properly fold the stove in a country house. How to make a brick stove correctly. The main advantages of a brick oven

Once upon a time, classic brick ovens for a house were its obligatory attribute and the only way to heat it. Professional stove-makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new solutions for space heating that operate on different energy sources, starting with solid fuel ending with electricity. However, good stove-makers remain in demand and the online request for "brick ovens for the house, drawings with orders" remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because of the remoteness of housing, which is why there is no alternative. Different types ovens can perform a heating function, on some models it is possible to cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and pre-fabricated. Some plan before building a house, while others need to fit into an existing room. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are erected to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment should be built of high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with the existing SNiP. In the vastness of the Internet, you can find any drawings with orders, but you need to understand that it will not be so easy to build a stove for a house with your own hands.

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have a higher efficiency (efficiency). But why brick is still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove "breathes".

This means that when the oven heats up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. When it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but will also make it possible to feel comfort even at a non-everyday level. With the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators in heating season are set in the range of 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, the air humidity should be optimal for health. The oven for the home provides optimal air humidity at a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. Moreover, in panel houses, when using centralized hot water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive humidity may be felt.

For hot water heating, the optimal temperature range is 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature must be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable in terms of economy than modern systems with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat at home depends on the temperature difference inside and outside the room.

Selecting the size of the oven surface

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to select the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This factor is decisive when choosing a place.

Different models have a variety of forms:

Rectangular;
In the form of the letter T;
With a stove bench or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can function as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small house area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. A lot of fuel is needed to warm up the entire furnace, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove in relation to living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the whole house is also a criterion.

Furnace size table, taking into account the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe room

The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classical scheme

The oven consists of 3 main parts. Stove body, foundation and chimney opening onto the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

Foundations - foundation;
Waterproofing material;
Shants. They are holes, they are made so that you create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as "legs" in the structure;
Blew;
The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
Blower door;
Grate grate;
Ignition part door;
Furnace part;
Furnace vault;
"Haylo" (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called hail);
Cleaning door;
Stranglethorn pass;
Strangler;
Gate valves regulating the direction of travel;
Convection channel;
A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
Strangler exit door;
Chimney hole;
Overlap (upper part of the oven);
Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
Overlap;
Roof chimney (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use ordinary reinforced concrete strip foundation... Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but it is very expensive, ordinary roofing metal will do), and covered with felt on top. The felt litter is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after that they start laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take on all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words, "so that the heat does not go into the ground."

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is performed in oblique shading from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of chamotte) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Removal of a metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked up, knocking to the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out, and does not set. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter period), the solution is soaked. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made to be rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to clean the soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). Cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus gives less heat load to the floor.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for the drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

The effective operation of the oven will depend on the location of the oven. The best location would be to cross all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering the outside. In addition, in this case, it will be easier to deliver fuel for the firebox.

Factors to consider:

The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is needed for correct operation and full cleaning capabilities.
The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying a foundation for a stove.
In front of the furnace door, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (sheet of metal or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for erecting a furnace

Brick

On the Internet, there are sources claiming that brick for ovens and refractory bricks are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of an ordinary single building brick are 250 x 125 x 65 mm, and a standard oven brick has a size of 230 x 114 x 40 mm. Sometimes 230 x 114 x 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality bricks of grade 150 are used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. The entire furnace could be built from it, but it cools down quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying the furnace channels in the furnace section. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or in sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not exist. It is appreciated for its other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire furnace body from it, since it is very expensive and has low strength.

To distinguish high-quality chamotte from low-quality, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fineness of the brick. Another way checks - check to the sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not muffled. The latter way of determining the quality of a material is radical. Break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay breaks into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive chamotte, sometimes clinker bricks are used in furnace construction. It is the same red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

Silicate white not suitable for any part. It is not resistant to heat stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

As sand in the cement-sand mortar, quarry sand of the middle fraction is used. It is sieved through a sieve to filter out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heating, because of which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

For laying the stove, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

Cement;
Lime;
Clays;
Chamotte.

It is characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land, having previously cleaned it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries on exposure to high temperatures, but gets wet on exposure to moisture. The oven masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you cannot lay the foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of chamotte is used in the furnace parts. Such a solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but only withstands 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-limestone is even stronger than conventional limestone, but the refractoriness is further reduced. They are used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying the chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to atmospheric precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and will provide good traction for the firebox.

Brick oven projects examples

Furnace for giving

Medium size country house are about 15-20 sq. m. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove measuring 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the entire body is erected from ceramic red.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

Every beginner can easily make such a simple option out of bricks with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, ordinal instruction

Despite its small size and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the blueprint if you have no experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Amount of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, a door for the furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. A sheet of metal on the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick breakage.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. It has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and there is a stove bench in its design. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main drawback is the design feature, due to which it heats up only the upper part of the room. But in our country, he is still popular.

What it consists of:

A) baking part;
B) niche;
B) six;
D) horn;
E) the stuffy part;
E) shield;
G) gate valve;
H) chimney pipe;
I) Repainting the crucible.

Large, small and medium-sized ovens are erected by their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The mortar from the clay will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a gate valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row number 1 is laid out of solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The sub-baking part is being formed;

Row No. 2 to No. 4, a well is laid out. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the furnace;

Rows No. 8 to No. 10 a vault castle is being erected;

Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made of special bricks;

Row 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows number 14 to 16 are made in the same way as the previous one;

Row number 17 establish the vaults of the mouths;

Row No. 18 - laying of the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 of the vault wall;

Row number 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the pole;

Row # 21 line the walls;

Row number 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the front-pipe part;

Row number 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view gate valves;

Row number 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is placed in 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before tackling the laying of stoves, it is worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with the effort and patience, everyone can make the oven with their own hands.

Video

In the proposed video, you can see the order of the heating furnace:

Since ancient times, it has become a custom that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to sleep. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, it is not for nothing that in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to heating and decorative functions, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing aromatic and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the stove is a whole science that has been learned in more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among the acquaintances, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before getting started.

Determining the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes the owners of real estate have with their home, it is worth considering the most satisfying options for all desires. Do not forget about the dimensions of the various ovens and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only one's own forces and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian stove

Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, therefore it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is located in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
The lounger is provided for rest; depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. Continuous air supply for better burning fuel provides blowing. The hex and the bend are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Prepared food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The underfloor and baking pans were used to store kitchen utensils, grips, pokers. Stoves are small-diameter recesses located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow, dried out very quickly in them.
Those who wish to fold the Russian stove in the house will have to provide a place for it at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half meters in length. A structure with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional flavor should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

The model, which is more compact than the Russian stove, designed for heating the room and preparing food, is a Swedish one.
She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat so that food can be cooked simultaneously on two burners on a cast iron stove.
There is also an oven, which the hostesses will appreciate. The Swede has a lot of modifications, they are named by the names of the developers (furnace designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choose suitable option will not be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch woman

It will only serve to heat the house. Contrary to its name, it has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer in a compact size. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. In number design features includes a winding chimney and a low (compared to the Russian stove) firebox located. Thanks to this, the Dutch woman warms up evenly from bottom to top.
Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits into an area of 1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, that's more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive, for improving appearance it is often decorated with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to attend to the search for a project brick wall suitable in all respects, think over its location, take into account all the requirements for fire safety... You will need to select tools, purchase the necessary material and invite assistants.

The project scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trust resources on the Web. Detailed courses were even filmed for those who wish.

Of the tools you will need:

mesh (sieve) to sift sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
shovel;
grinder (you will have to cut the brick);
a pickaxe hammer will help to chop a solid brick into small pieces and cut them to the desired shape and size;
jointing for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the joints between bricks a neat and aesthetic appearance. If the stove is subsequently planned to be plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then use this device don't have to. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will provide the same density and width of the joints;
trowel (trowel) for applying mortar;

a mixer attachment for a perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and evenly stir such a mass can only be done using a power tool;
It is better to take a tape measure with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
the rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
the building level is checked whether the masonry is not "overwhelmed" relative to the horizontal;
the work will be "dirty", so the cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops must be kept ready. It is better to remove the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the selected oven configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: cast iron plate, the number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

The sand must meet the following characteristics: clean, fine, homogeneous. This can be achieved by sieving.
Clay is skinny, normal, and oily. The proportions of the composition of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise to choose the "golden mean", that is, clay of normal fat content.

There are four main types of bricks.

Ceramic... This is a classic among home building materials. Lay the foundation, erect the load-bearing wall, build Vacation home- all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
Silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but it dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
Refractory brick used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glass blowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) brick the best for building a kiln. It is divided into four types:
- carbon is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
- lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
- the quartz type, with all its refractoriness, is very unstable to the action of alkalis or iron oxide. But it can be used for walls and arches of stoves;
- alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional bricks. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the oven, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for installing a brick oven

The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is due to the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will occur in any case, and the loads on both bases and the temperature effects will be different.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing - mandatory requirement to the base of the oven.

How to make the laying of a Russian brick oven

What else do you need to consider before starting work? For a classic Russian stove, you will need about 1700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (dimensions for the hole 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of solution.
As for the layer of the mixture to be applied, in this case, the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry joint of moderate thickness will help the bricks to set faster and stronger.
According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the arch of the firebox should go at an angle relative to the mouth. The sill-shaped protrusion cuts off sparks from the crucible against the pipes and retains the soot.

To help the master, orders have been developed. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of this or that row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the places of installation of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Brick oven drawing

The base of the stove must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing felt is fine. The first row will be laid out right on it. Fired (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, since they are not afraid of moisture.
So that the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows is of high quality, in the corners starting row three bricks of size ¾ are laid. That is, from these incomplete bricks, a triangle is formed: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be beveled to ensure maximum fit.
Second row serves as the starting point for laying out the guardianship.
Since the masonry involves the installation of bricks in a staggered manner, in order to avoid overlapping seams, third row will require four bricks at the corners with dimensions of ¾.
When laying fourth row you will need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming an entrance to the furnace, must have beveled corners. Thus, you get support for the arch. To make the baking even, a wooden formwork is erected in its opening.

When the arch is completed, you can return to styling fifth row... Three bricks are placed in the corners ¾. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) need to be beaten off with a hammer with a pickaxe so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that after completion of the work it could be easily removed through the entrance to the furnace. If you can't give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying whole bricks with neat bevels.
Seventh row the technique of execution resembles the first, for the eighth whole brick is used. The eighth row involves the arrangement of a site for a cold stove.
Ninth row- as the first one connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
Eleventh row must completely cover the sand filling and the stove itself.
Thirteenth row assumes the beginning of work on laying the walls of the pole and the furnace. Between them is a strip of metal, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and the pole up to up to the seventeenth row. In it, it is necessary that pre-chipped and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the arch of the firebox. The furnace itself is laid out similarly to the guardianship.
The completed vault of the crucible is an excuse to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of feet - supports are fixed to the side of the window of the pole. The arch, which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows in a row, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
Twenty first row serves as an overlap of the backfill and the furnace, and twenty second forms an additional overlap.
Twenty-third row must strengthen the flap walls and overtube. In the last element, the strangler is fastened, it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the view half-door.
Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter forms next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that it is supposed to leave a hole in it on the right side, blocked by a valve.
From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, a cut is made in order to let the bricks a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The latter value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
After the masonry dries out, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, perform a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

the structure has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
there is no grate;
constituent elements of the structure:
the firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the stove;
chimney, consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel gas passage through the system: three downward and three lifting channels;
cleaning door;
blew.

You will need to purchase:

refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
well bendable wire;
a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
masonry glue;
firebox door, blower, latch;
standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Diagram of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: the clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying ovens, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Not forgetting about the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
In the third row the ash chamber begins to form, the door is installed later.

Fourth row are performed in order to build up the mass of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, use a metal wire. If the first three rows of bricks were laid flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on the edge until the firebox door is closed.
The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are laid flat again. Eighth row- increasing the height.
Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided by the project, then ninth and tenth row move back. Along the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along the perimeter, on which a surface for cooking is installed. The tenth row assumes the beginning of laying the base of the chimney. To facilitate the construction, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
V eleventh row the gate valve is installed (using an asbestos cord), and the laying is done in a quarter of a brick.
V fourteenth row the firebox is overlapped from above, a hole is formed along the back wall for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is being done in the next row.
V two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleanout door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without binding it with mortar.
Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to shape it by means of masonry.
Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the solution, it will set better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to heat the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The stove does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly into the chimney.
Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
The best option is fuel that can smolder for a long time.
To the question of fire safety, it is worth adding that the Dutch oven must not be heated too much. When overheated, it will emit carbon monoxide... The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
Anyone who is engaged in laying stoves for the first time should make a trial laying in a "dry" way. That is, to complete all the work in stages, without cementing the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need help from the outside.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be conquered the first time. A careful study of the schemes, trial laying without the use of mortar, advice from experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Labor and patience, according to the saying, are very conducive to a positive outcome of any business.

How to make a brick oven with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of ovens for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step by step description, helpful tips.

Intended use classification

Heating. Such stoves are used only for heating a room as the only or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and warm up the air.
Heating and cooking. Such ovens can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification according to design

Direct-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: the air moves into the blower, goes up and, bypassing the grate, goes out through the pipe.

Cons of direct-flow furnaces:

Low efficiency, due to the fact that together with cold air, warm air leaves the oven, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

Due to the fact that such stoves make them bricks, which keep heat well, the room heats up evenly and retains heat.

Duct.

This type of furnaces are improved direct-flow ones. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, heats the room. When installing channel furnaces, one should take into account the linear dependence of the efficiency on the length and number of channels.

Bell-type.

Such ovens serve to retain heat in a room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. Cooling down, the air currents become heavy and go down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it comes out through the roll-up.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

They provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
Soot can be easily removed as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification according to material

Brick

Pros:

Autonomy. That is, once you "fill" the oven, you don't have to worry about it for a long time.
Heat retention. Brick structures conduct heat poorly, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

Take a long time to warm up.

Cast iron

Pros:

Easy to install, no foundation required.
Not flammable.
Compact.
Heat up quickly.
Huge selection of ovens according to external data.
No additional veneering is required.
There are automatic cast iron stoves which independently regulate the temperature.
High efficiency.
Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
Low price.

Minuses:

They cool down rather quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Consider the preparation:

Foundation. If the furnace is designed to be large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, then this is not necessary.
Thermal insulation is a must for all types of ovens, both large and small.
Chimney. In no case should the chimney be adjacent to the beams on the ceiling. Also, the distance between it and all the beams should be approximately the same.
Pipe. The protrusion of the pipe must be half a meter above the roof, but no further than one and a half.
Furnace location. The place should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are some more tips:

It is best to position the stove so that it heats as much as possible. more rooms... For example, if the house has several adjacent rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between, so that it heats everything.
If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not end-to-end.

Tools and materials

Materials:

Clay (for making mortar for masonry).
Sand.
Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
Pipe.
Gravel.
Wood.
Cement.
Roofing material.
The grate of the grate.
Angle steel.
Roofing steel.
Wire.
Nails.
Steam valve.
Oven.
Doors (for the cooking chamber, blower, furnace).
Cast iron tiles.

Instruments:

Furnace hammer.
Ruler.
Master OK.
Pick.
Square.
Plumb line.
Level.

Construction and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are basic types of structures:

Pros:

The efficiency can be as high as 80 percent.
It keeps warm for a very long time, in some cases - two days.
The firebox surrounds the fire from all sides and reduces the level of fire hazard of the structure.

Minuses:

Big size.
It weighs a lot.
Long warm-up.
After a break, a daily heating is required.
Has the most complex design of all possible types ovens.

The Russian stove is suitable as a permanent source of heat, completely replaces and even surpasses the stove, it can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation should be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Refers to the channel type.

Pros:

Simple masonry
It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
Heats up quickly.
It weighs relatively little.
Allows cooking.
Does not need to be heated regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

Cools down quickly.
Low efficiency.

It turns out that the Dutch oven will not be suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and irregular use.

Plain rectangular.

Pros:

Doesn't take up much space.
Simple construction.
Low prices for material and fuel.

Minuses:

Average efficiency.
Does not keep warm for very long.

A regular rectangular oven is a medium option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The stove is Swedish.

Refers to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

Allows cooking.
High efficiency.
Fast warm-up.
"Saves" fuel.
Relatively small in size.
Exists modern options with oven, hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

An overclocking heating is required.
Has a complex laying for a beginner.

The Swedish stove is suitable as the main source of heat in the room, it can completely replace the stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

Very low fire hazard.
Aesthetic.
High efficiency.
Warm up the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for home decoration and for its intended use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? First, we will draw up the drawings. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the furnace.

Foundation.
Frame.
Chimney.

The oven consists of the following levels:

Foundation
Rubble masonry.
Bookmark depth.
Waterproofing.
Solid wood stove.

Array composition:

Six.
Subset.
Underpants.
Strangler.
Overlap.
Gate valve.
Half door.

Pipe composition:

Overlapping.
Cutting.
Insulation.
Otter.
Head.
Metal cap.
Pipe riser.
A metal sheet.
Neck of the pipe.

Ordering - a detailed diagram of the brickwork of a brick stove.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's consider how to do it using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number ..

Designed for foundation waterproofing. Lay the beveled bricks and ¾. During laying, use a cement-sand mortar.
The second row is the basis for the walls of the guardianship zone.
The third row is the walls of the guardianship (3/4 brick).
The fourth row is a support support.
The fifth row is located in the corners in order to create support for the arch. Also use this row for laying out baked goods.
The sixth row is laid out according to a pattern made of wood, which will be a temporary vault of guardianship.
The row for the arch begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The center brick is hammered in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
The mantle walls are made of bricks of this row.
The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
The final row for guardianship. Fill the gaps with sand between the bricks, for the sake of insulation.
Strengthening the overlap of the guardianship with the addition of sloped bricks.
The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shetsk masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to grind it.
The bricks of this row will become a six and a cooking chamber. Additional installation of the arch of the mouth.
The walls of the pole and the crucible.
The walls of the pole and the crucible.
The walls of the pole and the crucible.
Fold in the supports for the brewing chamber roof.
Folds up from refractory bricks with a vault.
The walls of the pole.
Six walls. Fill the gaps with sand.
Furnace masonry, the beginning of the samovar.
End of the overlap. Installing a strangler.
Samovar and overtube channels.
The same channels.
Additional channel for the view.
The same channels.
Installation of a half-door.
Bandaging sutures and the same channels.
Bandaging sutures and the same channels.
Connection of a pipe and a stranglehold.
Installation of the valve.
Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a stove with your own hands: a description of the process.

Lay the foundation of.
Lay the first row (along the cord).
Lay the next rows using a level.
Control corners with body kits.
From rows 1 to 11, use a cement-sand mortar, then a clay-sand mortar.
The pipe is withdrawn at the end of all work.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands video:

Follow the directions carefully during installation.
Choose a blueprint that you can handle.
Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is a traditional Russian one).
Be careful when transporting refractory bricks as they are very fragile.
The side walls of the oven are warmest, so place them closer to the places that need to be thoroughly heated.
Don't forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

The laying of any stove from the ones discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!

One of the hallmarks of the convenience of living in a private cottage is a consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the building may be, but truly cozy can only be warm house... One of best solutions- Organization of heating with a brick oven for the house. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick ovens to be in harmony with any setting, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

With proper design and installation, a brick oven can be used in wooden houses Source taldomstroi.ru

What are brick stoves for houses

Brick stoves intended for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating for individual rooms or the entire house;
Cooking. The design is arranged in such a way that the main flow of heat goes up - to the hob. Such an oven is heated only during cooking;
Heating and cooking. In fact, it is a heating stove with a hob. Since the functional purpose of such an oven is mixed, it is not always comfortable to cook food on it in the summer.

Whatever type of oven belongs to, some general qualities must be present in any case:

the oven should warm up well;
the chimney design must provide good draft;
high level of general fire safety;
the stove should harmoniously fit into the overall environment, creating a feeling of coziness.

Based on the shape of the product, brick ovens are divided into square, round, corner, T-shaped, rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the wall thickness of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made thick-walled, thin-walled and of a combined type.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the way they are laid Source akson-quick.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

There are several reasons why a brick oven for a house is more preferable than products made from other materials:

The design, thought out to the smallest detail, perfectly plays the role of a heat accumulator. It is this feature that makes it possible to heat a brick oven much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood should be placed in metal stoves at intervals of 5-6 hours;
Due to the high heat accumulation, the brick oven is highly efficient and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer, almost complete decomposition of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and water base... Excess heat heats up the masonry, which in turn heats the premises;
There is no glowing effect on the outer parts, therefore, the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel ones.

Outside, the bricks are hot, but not red-hot, unlike the iron parts Source minsknews.by

It is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when it cools, it is absorbed back. This process is usually called the breathing of the oven and thanks to it, the humidity level of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating devices require the installation of an additional humidifier, without it the air dries up.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its drawbacks:

Long cooling of brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this medal also has a downside - no less prolonged heating. Therefore, when firing up the stove in a cold room of a large area, the temperature in the house will rise slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to acquire a convector.
Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is erected simultaneously with the house. The oven must function without interruption, therefore special knowledge and experience is needed to design and build it. Even despite free access to the drawings with the orders of brick ovens for the home, in this matter you cannot do without a specialist, and good oven masters are in short supply.

For high-quality masonry of stoves, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience Source fasaddomstroy.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing fireplaces and stoves. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Which brick to choose for the oven

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature effects. Construction material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. It is on the characteristics of the brick from which the furnace will be made that the overall life of its operation depends.

Bricks are usually marked. One of the main indicators is density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will take place. To build a furnace, bricks are needed, in the marking of which the strength grade M150-250 is indicated, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. Too high a strength grade may indicate the presence of substances in the composition of a brick that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next indicator of marking is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. It plays an important role in the selection of products used for laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking bricks for ovens in comparison with other types of material Source iqlevsha.ru

Frost resistance implies the ability of a product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Facing hollow are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, a solid red brick is needed. Plastic molding is preferred. These products are resistant to temperature changes and do not crack, even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

silicate and pressed bricks;
bricks made using the slip casting method;
unbaked raw materials.

The maximum exposure of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 ° C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or to use them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

The Sh8 brand is suitable for the firebox (such bricks are straw-yellow in color and darkish blotches). It is recommended to use fireclay products (Ш 22-Ш45) for the arch of the furnace. The only exception is sauna stoves, where, due to high humidity, it is contraindicated to use such a brick.

Refractory brick of the Sh8 brand is distinguished by a straw-yellow color Source pcentr.by

How to determine the optimal location for the oven

It is necessary to determine the place in the house for the stove according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

residential building area;
how many rooms should be heated;
what is the stove for and what kind;
how the gases will be removed during combustion;
the location of the stove must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional stove or equipment for a hot water heating system will be required.

A heating and cooking stove is used to heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are warmed up by the heat-dissipating wall.

When building a house made of stone, you can immediately think over the layout of chimneys in the walls, which will increase the usable area of the house and provide optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of the rooms, you need to think over the place of its most successful placement so that the surfaces that transfer heat from the stove allow for uniform and maximum heat distribution.

Options for the location of the stove in the house Source pechnoy.guru

Typically, a corridor or kitchen serves as a place for placing a firebox. If the stove is well planned, it is almost invisible in the house. It does not clutter up the living space and is in perfect harmony with all interior elements. For example, the combined option is often used. In one room there is one side of the building - a stove, and in an adjacent room, the second part of it is a fireplace. The chimney system is common.

A brick stove for a house cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. Also, do not forget that the oven needs regular maintenance, which means that convenient approaches must be carefully thought out.

Furnace foundation

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

Furnace foundations are divided into the following types:
reinforced concrete;
pile;
pile-screw;
columnar;
laid out from blocks.

It is important! Whatever type the foundation belongs to, it should be created separately from the base of the house (except for a monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

The gravel-sandy type of soil requires the preparation of a shallow foundation;
With clay or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone pad;

Differences between arranging a foundation for a brick and iron stove Source kaksdelatbanyu.ru

In the permafrost zone, a screw-pile foundation is used;
Dry rocky soils make it possible to dispense with either a minimum base thickness or not use it at all;
The stove must not be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick oven:

Taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a pit is being prepared.

The bottom is rammed horizontally. Crushed stone, broken brick and rubble stone are poured in an even layer. Ramming again.

A solution is being prepared (proportion 1: 3). The embankment is filled with mortar;

Then there are three options:

use a combination of crushed stone and cement;
apply a frame made of reinforcement, followed by pouring it with concrete;
a reinforced concrete slab is poured, on which a foundation is made of bricks and pouring of concrete and rubble.

They proceed to the next stages after all the used solution has dried.

Laying three-layer waterproofing.
Then bricks are stacked in rows.

Bricks stored in the open air must not be used in construction. Due to repeated freezing and wetting, they become brittle, which will reduce the operating life of the furnace.

Video description

You can clearly see some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a furnace in the video:

To backfill the space between the furnace foundation and the foundation of the house, use ordinary river sand.

The order of laying the stove

How to build a stove in a house correctly depends on the materials used and the chosen design, but the main stages of work are always the same:

The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its underfloor part;
Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;
Heating section laying;
As soon as several rows have been laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;
A combustion door is installed. A combustion chamber is being formed;
A hob is placed on top of the combustion chamber;
Continuation of the masonry with the gradual design of the gas convection system;
When the body of the stove is formed, then they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic swing doors are installed.

Choosing the material of the door for the stove, take into account the following points:

cast-iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if they like to admire the play of flame in the house;

Through the glass you can clearly see how the fire is burning in the furnace Source idei-landshafta.ru

completely cast iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. For a wood-burning stove, doors made of steel or glass are suitable;
to avoid burns and to protect children or pets from a dangerous environment, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required.

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of bricklaying stoves, according to a given scheme.

Rules for the operation of a brick oven

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, certain operating rules must be observed:

The consistency of the characteristics of the stove is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during the combustion of fuel.
The stove must be heated correctly. Heat loss when the blower is open reaches 15–20%. If, during combustion, the door of the combustion compartment is open, all 40% will go out into the open air.
For the firebox, dry firewood, prepared in advance, must be used. When using raw, less heat is released and due to the formation of corrosive condensate, the brick walls are destroyed.
Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately the same logs - with a thickness of 8 to 10 cm.

Video description

You can clearly see the errors in the installation and operation of brick ovens in the video:

Firewood should be laid with an empty space of 10 mm between them. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with an intersection. The best option filling the firebox - by 2/3. The gap between the laying of firewood and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.
To ignite the fuel, use ordinary paper, a splinter, etc. Do not use flammable substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone.
As soon as the stove is melted, the view is slightly covered, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.
The reference point when adjusting the draft during firing up is the color of the fire. The yellow color of the flame is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes directly into the chimney. Red flame - there is little air, the fuel burns partially with the release of harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as renovation work, it is best to organize in the summer, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically assess the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad wood or other reasons, the pollution occurs much faster and additional cleaning is required. When soot accumulates, at best, the thermal efficiency of the oven decreases, and at worst, all smoke and carbon monoxide can go into the room.

Video description

For cleaning a brick oven, see the following video:

The ash chamber and grate cleaning should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a latch, a view and a blower door are used to adjust the draft of the stove and its operating mode. You need to constantly monitor their functionality and integrity. As soon as problems have arisen or individual parts have worn out, the issue must be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If the house has a stove, it means that there is warmth and home comfort... But regardless of the chosen brick oven design, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

It will be cheaper in the house than installing a stone stove with your own hands, since the cost of a stone is higher than a brick. If there is no desire to build a brick stove or there is no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance, the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. The preparatory stage of construction provides for the construction of the foundation.

The foundation for the stove must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of the rise of heaving soil under the building. Next, a furnace is erected using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should brick ovens be folded

Figure 1. Ordering the brick oven.

You can prepare a masonry solution in a special container. In any case, you should have on hand building level for even masonry, since each row must have flat surface... Among the main materials for preparing the oven for masonry, one should highlight:

sand;
clay;
red solid brick;
roofing material;
grate grate;
pipe;
wood;
gravel;
cement.

Before laying the stove, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for the construction of a brick stove, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Then they immediately start with the preparation of the masonry mortar. Do not use concrete for this. Usually, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A - spoon row; B - butt row.

The clay must be softened before using it. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days so that it softens. In the process of preparing the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various stones and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly provide an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace, its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it loses its beneficial features, therefore masonry mortar cook several times during the laying process.

For high-quality masonry of the stove, a preliminary layout of bricks must be done, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. All work should be based on referring to the scheme of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the mortar allows you to carefully cover each seam.

Back to the table of contents

How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed oven according to the corresponding finished drawing is laid out on a separately erected foundation, as noted above. The principle of the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation is poured from the preparation of the pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, it can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken brick or a stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm high, and rubble is poured over it. For creating removable formwork use specially prepared boards, hammered together. The formwork must be made strong, as it must withstand the pouring of concrete. The quality level of the concrete casting will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the frozen concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing material. All layers of these materials should provide as much as possible reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the ground should be covered with coarse sand or a layer of gravel.

Back to the table of contents

How to make a brick oven in a house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney masonry.

Tips for laying brick ovens.

The principle of laying the stove can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

Foundation slab device.
Sub-furnace device.
Furnace laying in rows in accordance with the ordering scheme.
Arrangement of the grate grate.
Fitting bricks.
Furnace door device.

Among the recommendations for laying a stove in a house, a number of basic ones can be distinguished. For example, the grate should be mounted in the stove without resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise, when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the furnace must be equipped with waterproofing. The base of the foundation should protrude at least 10 cm. A stackable stove is usually a defined space on the front outer wall of the stove, equipped with an opening for storing inventory.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there is no formation of gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the rear wall of the furnace. When covering the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed at the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left bar is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord in all contact points. Fix the fire door with three layers of galvanized wire. The use of high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.

Before laying, bricks must be moistened with water, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a sample. It will help to check the quality of brickwork corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.