A wooden boat is not a cheap pleasure. But if you are ready to work hard, you can create your own river transport with your own hands, saving a decent amount.
Prepare a diagram or drawing with dimensions. Perhaps, in the search engine of your browser, for the query “diagram of a boat made of wood” among the proposed options, you will find a suitable one, otherwise you will have to either combine the options found, or calculate yourself, or seek help from a specialist. From the drawing, already clearly determine the amount of materials required. For the boards, choose high quality pine or spruce boards - wide and long, without knots or cracks. Before the construction of the boat, these boards should lie down for a year on a flat, dry surface under oppression. Inspect each board thoroughly for defects immediately prior to use. Start creating the bow of the boat:- Measure the desired length of the board, saw off the edge at an angle of 45 ° from the bow side, stitch. Remove the chamfer from the sawn-off edges so that there is no gap between these boards when pressing. Cover these ends with a protective antiseptic.
- Make the base of the “bow” of the boat - a triangular bar (its length is one and a half times greater than the height of the boat). The bar must be trimmed and treated with an antiseptic.
- Assemble the “bow” of the boat: grease the two sides and the base bar with carpenter's glue, fasten them firmly with nails or self-tapping screws.
- Cut off any protruding excess from the top and bottom
- Install the spacer in the right place, the assistants, slowly, bend the side walls with a rope, and you apply the edges of the sides to the tailgate blank and make notes on them where and how much to chamfer so that all parts are connected without gaps, then chamfer and try again. Adjust several times to eliminate gaps.
- Treat the joints with an antiseptic, fasten the sides with wood glue, as well as nails or self-tapping screws.
- Saw off the excess at the bottom of the tailgate, arrange its top (with an arc, a triangle, a trapezoid, a straight line).
- Install permanent struts and seats. Before fixing them, you need to make holes in the sides with a small drill, so you will prevent cracks.
- For the bottom, you need a galvanized sheet. Place the boat on it upside down, circle it with a marker with a margin of 1.5 cm and cut it out with scissors for metal.
- Turn the boat upside down, remove the chamfers from the sides and struts from the side adjacent to the bottom. Treat the edges with an antiseptic. Wait for the impregnation and wood glue to dry.
- Continuously apply silicone sealant to the underside of the sides, lay special threads or tow on it in two rows, this will protect against leakage.
- Lay and align the cut-out metal blank of the bottom and attach it with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails (1.8x32), moving from the middle of the boat to the edges.
- In places where the metal protrudes more than 5 mm, cut off the excess. Tap the entire perimeter with a hammer, bending the sheet onto the board. Also protect the bow of the homemade boat with tinplate by pre-treating it with a sealant and laying the thread.
A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or water recreation. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is an essential item, and in populated areas, production and rental of floating craft profitable business... How boatmen make money in resorts, everyone knows that. However, in commercial classifiers, small boats do not belong to goods for which pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is it possible at all, and how the boat is made with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is unequivocal: yes, and much simpler than commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made far from the water without a boathouse and slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - this article is about this.
In preparing materials for this publication, the books "300 tips on boats, boats and motors" were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, "Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers" Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and "Kurbatov DA 15 projects of ships for amateur construction" L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints to the illustrations, they are designated "Н74", "Н77" and "K.", respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? The current ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allows them to be used more fully.
Organizational issues
The reader must have already asked questions: is it really that simple? Build - and swim? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a trail on a rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:
- The boat is just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for used materials in case you need to prove that they are not stolen. A small body of water is considered a body of water in which the distance from the coast is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
- A boat for yourself, a navigable pond of any size - an additional certificate for the right to operate a small boat (analogue of rights to motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
- The same as in PP. 1 and 2, the boat may have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a lifejacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
- Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - in addition, a license for the right of passenger or cargo transportation by water;
- All according to PP. 1-4, sailing or motor-sailing boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman's certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
- The boat was made for sale, not a serial one - a license for the right to manufacture small craft.
I must say that in non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are massive, and in sparsely populated areas - indiscriminate. The water inspectorate has neither legal nor organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or his criminal prosecution begins only on the fact of the consequences of the accident.
What yes and what no?
The designs of small vessels are countless, however, for an amateur beginner when choosing a prototype you need to be guided by the trail. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:
- The boat must be built according to a proven design and / or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
- The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, capacious in weight and volume, seaworthy enough for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable on waves, current in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
- The boat should be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and with an adult, physically moderately developed assistant, load it for transportation;
- The boat building technology should not include operations requiring special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the beginner's mistakes and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
- It is desirable that the boat be able to walk well and stay on the wave on the oars, under the engine and sail - to save fuel and good rest;
- The cost of building a boat should be kept to a minimum;
- If the boat is kept away from the body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for kart vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the upper trunk of a car.
In terms of the totality of qualities, in addition to the price of materials, a plywood boat will be the best choice for your first vessel. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be as much heavier and will last much less, except for the version with a steel thin-walled bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:
- All-metal welded and riveted boats.
- Planing vessels.
- Small pleasure catamarans.
- Styrofoam boats, plastic bottles, boats-pontoons and planks of rectangular shape in plan, etc. exotic.
- Inflatable boat.
The grounds for such "truncation" are as follows. All-metal self-made vessels by the transport inspection bodies are not surveyed and not registered due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in artisanal conditions.
Building a speedboat is not a business for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can tackle it, making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, having some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a go-kart boat that goes on planing on a small wave under an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see eg. track. video.
Video: an example of a homemade speedboat and its tests
A small catamaran, it will be known to the reader, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; eg foam can be used extensively. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, somersault as you like, there you can put up a tent and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the question of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.
Boat exotic made of scrap materials is simply dangerous. For example, a single-hull foam boat will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for sailing only in a “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by currents or wind.
As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to being able to carry them, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer's certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this does not in any way apply to homemade inflatable boats.
At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of the simplest inflatable boat(see fig.), to make sure: it is much more difficult to glue its seams properly in artisanal conditions than to build a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality soft plastic boat materials will cost a lot more than the best plywood and epoxy.
But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue the safety bulkheads into the cylinder. The self-made "rubber band" will be one-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not in a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is heavily overgrown - you will only have to mentally summarize your life. For its end is near.
Note: if you certainly want not to build your boat, but to glue it, then it is better to make it from ... scraps water pipes... Such a boat cannot be blown away or hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How is a boat made from PVC pipes, see the video below.
Video: an example of a homemade boat made of PVC pipes
Which one to do?
There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for the construction; people have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to figure out how to navigate this variety for a novice shipbuilder-navigator. For example, boats such as canoes (pos. 1 in the figure), kayaks, canoes or domestic shrimps are very popular, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, to manage them you need not only experience - great art. In terms of the number of drowned people among newcomers, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top of the rating among small boats. In addition, such rigid-skinned boats are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.
The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dori (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and a green salaga can drive it. The curved contours in the bow make the fofan well viable on a wave in full load, and together with the "pot-bellied" hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of quite quickly, up to 20 km / h or more, to go under a sufficiently powerful motor in a transitional (semi-displacement ) mode. But, as we can see, the contours of the fofan are also double-curved, and it is heavy: to turn the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.
The Russian Tuzik recreational and fishing boat (pos. 3; Russian because there is also an American Tuzik dinghy boat, see below) is light, but again with double curvature lines. The same applies to the sea sailboat, pos. 5, although she is steadily keeping on course on a 4-point wave under sail, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.
Bend once!
So, we have decided on one more requirement in a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. the surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small quiet inland waters, the best choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. The Scythians in such conditions have established themselves as the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the Scythians are excellently controlled on the current and in overgrown reservoirs. Water or algae simply have nothing to grab them.
Note: contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In the excitement, the skiff, like any shallow-seated punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to overturn.
In somewhat more difficult sailing conditions, on waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, the dinghy is easy to recognize by the bow transom-forspiegel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to rise on the wave, and the forespill makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and its own weight almost a record. Thanks to this, dinghy is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places far from the water: 2-3 seater dinghy on the upper trunk fits into the dimensions of a car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a Scythian - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) just on the floor in an apartment.
The dinghy under sail (pos. 7) is quite safe, but very versatile, and therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. I learned how to manage this - you can safely go to the tiller / steering wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, the Golden Fish dinghy was widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.
Note: in coastal areas, you can often find seaworthy dinghyes. Outwardly, they look like a fofan squeezed along (pos. 8), but in fact, the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as that of a dinghy with a forespiegel.
Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be stopped on Dori. Dori boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen used to catch and fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the Dori are phenomenal: there are many cases when large reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the Dori then returned home safely in the same waters.
Dori boats are known in 2 modifications: pure rowing bank and sailing (pos. 9). To manage a bank dori, you need to be a salted sailor through and through from childhood, because their static stability is low. Sailing dori are not so capricious, a beginner who knows the basics of the movement of a ship under sail is able to learn how to fly it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dori. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than reinforcing the transom under the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.
Alphabet truths
To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a project that is technically competent and suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small vessels. So let's start with theory.
Walking speed
The speed of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the bow wavelength of the vessel grows rapidly, see fig.:
In this case, most of the power of the engine or the thrust of the sails is spent on maintaining it. The motor goes into the "fuel burn" mode, at the same time quickly burning up its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not able to pull the ship by Fr> 0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by placing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and you will burn the money for fuel in vain. If the recommended motor power is not indicated in the boat project, it can be determined from table. on the trail. rice.
Movement at a Fr value that is too large for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may appear to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to move back from the bow wave and bury itself astern into the water. If, frightened by the wave that has risen in front of the bow, the gas is thrown off sharply, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the oncoming wave: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.
The consumption of energy driving the ship for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the ship's length to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability decrease. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its front line along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with a back-to-back sheathing (see pos. 2 and 4 in the figure with the types of boats). The ribs singing in the casing turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the nasal wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent speed of the combat boats of the Viking Drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, backed cladding is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.
Stability
The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (at rest) and dynamic on the move. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the overturning moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.
The value of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacentre M above the center of gravity G (see Fig.). A vessel with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very roll, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacentre first "runs" upward from the center of gravity, and then moves back. When M is below G, the overturning moment will exceed the recovery moment and the boat will capsize. Corresponding the angle Θ for decked ships is called the sunset angle. The critical heel for undecked ships will be that at which the ship scoops sideways. Then Θ is called the pouring angle.
The stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. On the one hand, this is bad for small vessels, because a small craft turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat goes with a critical list, then the roll of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days the captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from the storm, ordered "to set sails as long as the masts can withstand," they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less correct small displacement vessel will be more static. In order for the boat, which is stable in the parking lot, to capsize on the move, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.
Controllability
It is wrong to think that the ship is turning from the rudder. The vessel turns obliquely against the oncoming flow of water, and the rudder only helps it to be substituted under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is in fact the projection of the center of rotation of the CV on the main plane (see below). Hence, there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on a rudder that is too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of the hull amidships, i.e. across the widest part. Check and, if it matches, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.
The position of the CG is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally... In a perfectly steerable, non-bankable vessel, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what the designers are striving for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with a roll. Romantic but also dangerous because the boat's controllability decreases, which aggravates the danger of capsizing.
Sailing
Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general, this is correct. Diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see fig. From there it is also clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CPU and CLS are highly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the sailing armament is not provided for by the project of the boat, do not put a "samopal". As a last resort and under perfectly favorable circumstances, you can build an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine is dead, it is far from the shore, the rowing is exhausted, but the wind is weak and the excitement is insignificant.
The interaction of the sail's thrust forces and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment tending to bring it to the wind, i.e. turn your nose exactly against the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will receive the wave on the bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far forward from the CLS, the ship will become difficult to control or generally uncontrollable: it will be driven to the wind, no matter how the tiller turns; it's not far from here to disaster.
The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes with respect to the wind, both the CPU and CLS shift. If the CPU is behind the CLS, the vessel will start to roll away into the wind ("wants" to become stern to it), which threatens a catastrophe. Hence the most important conclusion: without proper knowledge of maritime affairs, do not experiment with sails! You run the risk of making an “overkill turn” in a gentle wind on calm water!
So that a vessel without a large bottom deadrise and contours specially designed for sails could carry sailing equipment, lifting keels - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells are used, see Fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but there are no centerboard drawings, we reject, illiterate. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail, stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull set). Technically, this is the same as clipping the wings of an airplane or trying to adapt them, the tail and the jet engine to the bus.
Outlines and drawings
The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 fig., And in pos. 2 - the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midship plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Cutting with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of large enough vessels, performed on a small scale, to check the coincidence of lines. On the theoretical drawings of small vessels, instead of fish, they often give a combatant along the frames, see below.
Already by looking at the theoretical drawing, one can estimate at what Froude numbers a given ship is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 - semi-displacement. Next, you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:
- The distances from the DP to the water lines of the overhead line on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from the OP. Taking into account the scale, tk. the projection of the body, necessary for constructing patterns and templates of frames, is most often given on an enlarged scale (see pos. 4).
- The distances from the base to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the base to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same secant plane parallel to the base, also taking into account the scale.
Next, you should evaluate the sailing performance of the vessel: using the trapezium method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. the lengths are laid along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one space, i.e. the distance between the sections along the frames. The envelope of the segments, the so-called. marching on the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.
Forming a combatant along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water, its effect affects any speed, and not transonic. Secondly, the ship's hull is only partially submerged in water and therefore excites gravitational waves in motion, not pressures. Therefore, the combatant on the frames should not look like a drop, but the body of an ogival shape, like an artillery shell. The flatter the frontline on the frames, the more salable the vessel will be, and the wide frontline indicates its good controllability. The "tail" at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the "beak" at the front - about good germination on the wave, but at the same time about the propensity to yaw.
Note: in addition to the frames, according to the theoretical drawing, the true bypass of the inclined transom is built, see fig.:
Materials (edit)
Wood and plywood
The basic materials of construction for the boat require some pretreatment. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be abundantly impregnated with a water-soluble wood preservative (biocide). Not oily, it will not be in the air!
Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several steps with intermediate drying in order to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the veneer is wooden as it is. Further, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of the boat up to 4 m in length should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the species and quality of wood, three or four times more. The method of gluing wooden parts correctly and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. above. They differ from the construction ones!
Plywood sheets larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are pre-glued into strips of the required length with a mustache connection, see Fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. One can only advise to round the mustache with a rough planer, and finish it with a grinder or an even bar wrapped in sandpaper. The sheets are glued with epoxy glue. The quality of the burr is checked by the trace. way:
- Cut a strip with a width of approx. 10 cm. This is almost always possible because curved details will be cut out.
- The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
- If the joint is of good quality, the plywood should crack anywhere other than it.
Type-setting boat hulls are assembled on red-copper nails (holes must be drilled for them), galvanized or tapered screws. Red-copper nails are bitten and riveted in washers; galvanized bend. Holes are drilled for screws; for their sizes, techniques for working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.
Note: Recently, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats on furniture screws-confirmations, using the same technological methods as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For the time being, these boats are floating, but not for long in order to judge their reliability for a long time.
Fiberglass
Epoxy glued glass cloth is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about her: they say, he didn't swim until autumn - it started flowing. The reason is the paraffin that is used to cover the fiberglass before spinning and weaving it. Paraffin from glass fabric is removed by boiling in water. You cannot burn out, the fabric will become fragile! The fiberglass is boiled in clean dishes for at least half an hour, then allow the dishes with the contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass.
Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Bonding of parts of a set made of extruded EPS EPS - effective method to increase the rigidity of the wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and the assembly of a plywood boat by sewing on epoxy glue is technologically simple and gives a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the step of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:
- Cut out parts without an allowance;
- The edges are rounded to form a wedge-shaped joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
- If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts with staples, put the blank on the keel blocks (see below) and sew the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the tragus, the sides are sewn on;
- Expose the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
- When the glue hardens, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see the picture above). It is not necessary to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the filled holes from the staples are a potential source of water flow;
- When the last gluing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in in the same way;
- Remove the body from the keel blocks (tragus), bite the staples from the outside flush and paste over the seams with 3 layers of fiberglass outside;
- Frames, a centerboard well, banks (seats), a breastplate (see below), a gunwale, a fender, etc. are glued into the body, which is needed according to the project;
- They carry out additional equipment and finishing.
How to make a boat?
We sew
In the projects of boats, kartop dingis and skiffs, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on keel blocks or tragus, see fig. Sewn on a dry body is exposed along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The stitching seams of the sheets, as the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as the most loaded and prone to damage.
We build
The construction of a sharp-chinned boat with a larger than sewn capacity with single-curvature lines begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of the frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane, onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing are transferred at a scale of 1: 1. If the outlines of the boat are simple, and there is little space, only the projection of the hull can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, with increasing strength, complexity and weight, are given in Fig. Keel grooves and stringers are pre-selected.
Further, the frame frames are placed on the frame (pos. And on the next figure), set vertically, by contours, a keel bar, stem (see below), fenders and stringers are attached. After that, the set of the body is covered with a flat bar (pos. B). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be trimmed to a given dead-lift; secondly, check if a double curvature section has been worn in somewhere, and so on. trim the bottom edges of the floorboards. Then sheathing is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After that, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.
Note: some amateurs after malkovki trash against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the casing from the mild set on sheets of packing cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with the geometry according to the theoretical drawing, and the boats are nothing, they float.
Nose
Forteven is the most loaded and responsible part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules for the safety of navigation says: if the danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on the bow. Therefore, the manufacture of the stem of the boat should be taken with full responsibility.
The designs of the bow boats are shown in Fig. Solid, non-rotting wood waterstop plugs prevent water from seeping into the case. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. The false bow stem is used in kart boats with a narrow forespigel.
On excitement and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to expand the body, therefore it is reinforced with an insert-bristle. It is often neglected by amateur boatbuilders or does not know what it is at all; this is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats serve much less than the terms stated in the projects.
Stern
Another rather important part of the kit, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 HP is given in Fig. on right. Overall, with reinforcement, transom thickness - from 40 mm. Possibly More: Some outboard motor alignment clamps do not converge by less than 50-60mm.
Unsinkability
An unsinkable boat is a radical way to avoid the severe consequences of accidents on the water. It is quite simple to make a non-decked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the banks and on the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, it is possible to fence off acc. forepeak and afterpeak and fill with foam. The volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters m is calculated by the formula V = 1.2W (1 + ρ), where W is the displacement in t, 1 is the density fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ = 0.08 tf / cu. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons, 0.324 cubic meters will be needed. m or 324 cubic meters. dm of foam. It seems to be a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such an amount is accommodated without a noticeable deterioration in habitability.
Supply
The minimum set of obligatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, lifejackets for human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring end and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) navigation light of all-round visibility. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a kid's cam with built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor deserves special attention from this set.
Anchor
Joseph Konrad called the anchors "honest pieces of iron", and no wonder: the anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small boats are most often supplied with cat anchors, but this is far from the best option... First, cats often get stuck on rocks. On sale there are cat anchors with paws reclining back with a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the ship can spontaneously de-anchor just when you need to keep on it tightly. Secondly, a cat, like a classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the vessel can land with its bottom on the anchor leg sticking out upwards.
Hall, Matrosov anchors and Trident lightweight anchors of increased holding power are also produced for small vessels. They are quite expensive, but you won't be able to make them yourself, you need cast parts. You can independently make a Kurbatov welded anchor (see fig.), It is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. ingot in 2-3 kg.
Suddenly, Kurbatov's anchor will get stuck in the stones, the pig must be lifted before releasing it. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp jerk by the cable. This may damage parts 4 and 8, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with a hammer and pliers.
About anchor attachment
In the butt of the anchor, it is necessary to thread an eyelet during manufacture - a steel ring freely dangling in it. The rump is also supplied with the gum-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable / chain to the ship's hull. The eyelets significantly reduce the wear of the cable / chain and the likelihood of their sudden breakage.
Zhvaka-tack is attached from the outside to the stem. You need to fix the gum-tack lower, above the waterline itself. In this case, the boat at anchor will play better on the wave, not bury itself into the water on waves, and the probability of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.
Examples of projects
There are enough good projects of kartop boats, dinghy and Scythians in Runet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, let us dwell on boat projects more extensively.
Scythian
The appearance, data and design of a skiff boat developed by D.A.Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the upper trunk of a car, are shown in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme low cost: the main material is boards, and there is a small size on the bottom, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right planks for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, today the seams between the boards can be caulked with a construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will decrease to 70-80 kg.
On the trail. rice. the drawings of the details of this boat are given and the method of its assembly is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway according to templates. The transom is amplified under the motor as described above.
Further in Fig. shows the sailing equipment of this boat and the drawings of the oars for it. The sail is raked (emphasis on "o"), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, completely without knowing the theory. But - do not put this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of the rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more strongly, and she is a punt!
As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats do not go very easily with oars, therefore, in order to save the muscular efforts of the rower, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades are of great importance.
About the iron day
Scythian boats are sometimes made with galvanized iron bottoms. Such a boat, firstly, with plywood sides, weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can turn it around as you like alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic reaction of water, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. There is only one drawback for home-made boats with a steel bottom: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not look.
Dory
The same author also developed a project of a sailing boat dori made of plywood, see fig; according to the table of plazovy ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short steep "evil" wave (Azov, north of the Caspian Sea, Markizovaya puddle in the Baltic), this boat has shown itself better than a sea boat or an Azov longboat.
Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on the slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set are shown. Wood must be used of high quality, without knots and defects, because wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.
On the trail. Figs are given drawings of the sailing equipment of the dori. Since the dori can sail in a fairly strong wind, it is envisaged to take one reef on sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dori boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and CLS!
Many, especially avid fishermen, want a good boat, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase one. So the question arises: how to make a boat with your own hands? For those who consider such a task impossible, we immediately answer that it is not. The main thing is to apply strength and diligence.
Boat made of planks
When thinking about how to make a boat, first of all, you need to decide on the wood. Alder, willow or spruce are perfect for this, but, as folk craftsmen say, there is no better boat made of simple pine boards. Such a boat may be heavy, but the resinous tree practically does not rot.
In addition, it is not necessary to paint it. Craftsmen believe that under a layer of paint the wood is steamed and melted. It is enough to soak the boards, but used engine oil is suitable for this.
Wood preparation
On the sawmill, cut the boards to a thickness of 30 mm. After that, they need to be planed to a thickness of 25 mm. This will be enough. Moreover, they are planted only from the side that will be inside the boat.
Those who are not quite sure how to make a boat should know that the length of the boards will be the length of the hull. You need to choose it at your own discretion. It can be from 4 to 6 m.
When making a boat, take into account the fact that the wider the boards, the fewer cracks in the boat will be, and this, accordingly, will reduce potential leaks. When connecting and bending the boards, there will be gaps in any case, which is why they must be caulked immediately. To do this, use moss or a construction harness, and then additionally coat it with silicone.
Fastening all elements of the boat
If earlier the boards were fastened together with nails, now they have been replaced by self-tapping screws, which makes it possible to do this reliably and quickly.
When thinking about how to make a boat, do not forget about the shape of the sides. They can be both inclined and vertical. Although the latter are easier to manufacture, the boat's navigational qualities deteriorate as a result. Therefore, many people prefer to bend them. This is not to say that it is easy to do this, but it is completely realistic. The main thing is to know which devices to use for this. It is good to do this with the help of special clamps, but you need to bend slowly, gradually increasing the load. Boards should be periodically moistened with water. This gives them flexibility.
For greater reliability, the boat is equipped with stiffeners. They are usually made of oak planks. It is also used for the device of the pointed bow of the boat. The boards of the sides and bottom are inserted into it, and into special grooves. Self-tapping screws are not used here for fastening.
When deciding how to make a boat, you should immediately estimate the width of the front and stern. Usually in the bow, the width reaches 80 cm, and in the stern area it decreases to 30-40 cm. In this case, it is better to make the sides no more than 40 cm high.
This shape of the boat makes it easy to control it from the stern, while using one oar.
Rubber boat
Many fishermen prefer to use inflatable rubber boats for fishing. They have a number of advantages over wooden ones - they are compact and weigh little (no more than 6 kg), and with careful treatment they serve for a very long time.
Those who do not have the opportunity to buy a factory-made boat are thinking about how to make a rubber boat on their own. With certain skills, this is a completely solvable problem.
Necessary materials
The best material for making a rubber boat is BCC rubberized fabric. It is used for the production of military personal protective equipment. It is very thin, lightweight, durable, does not rot and is rubberized on both sides.
To sew the main elements of the boat, use a nylon thread (No. 30). Sew them on sewing machine... Rubber adhesive 4508 with natural rubber is used to fasten the elements.
Manufacturing process
- Drawings of a rubber boat are taken as a basis.
- Patterns for boat elements are cut out of thick cardboard.
- The fabric is laid face down on a large table, the patterns of the parts are placed on it and outlined, and a seam allowance of 1 cm is made.
- The finished parts of the boat are first baited with a nylon thread, and then they are sewn on a typewriter.
- Then 50 mm wide strips are cut from the fabric and all the seams are glued on top of them.
- Thus, the bow and stern part, as well as the side balloons, are collected.
- After assembling the entire structure, an inflation valve is installed. For it, you can use a small piece of rubber hose or buy a ready-made factory-made one.
- Then they move on to making the bottom. For this, the already made cylinder of the boat is pumped up. A cloth is spread on the floor, a balloon is placed on top and circled around it.
- For the bottom, you need to make two patterns. They are glued together and the resulting double bottom is glued to the bottom of the boat.
Such short instruction gives general concept how to make a boat yourself, as well as decide on the materials and scope of work. We hope that our tips will be useful to you, and you can easily make the boat yourself.
I have long wanted to create a record with a note of the main points in the manufacture of the boat, but it still did not work! Dad is getting older every year, but there is still no crib, although we have made more than one pair of boats with him ... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the guys are growing up and boats need more stable and lifting ones, for reliability moving. I used to swim myself, but with my sons this must be warned! It's time they took out the boards that had been stored earlier, trimmed them, stitched them, prepared the nails, and, one weekend, we got down to business! (It is better to use spruce boards, without knots, but not always what you need)
First of all, Dad sketched a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects
Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main thing with a jigsaw, left it only at the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.
When adjusting the boards to one another, we leave slots in the stern and in the bow, while in the middle we adjust more or less tightly
When all the details are prepared, we begin to assemble the bottom, first, having tightly assembled the boards, we sew them with nails in the middle of the crossbar, then with the help of a rope and two crowbars we pull together the stern, we sew with nails, we do the same with the bow
Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, during the screed and assembly, the bottom turns out to be a little sphere both across and along. In the future, this gives the boat stability on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will facilitate the caulking of the bottom.
When the bottom is assembled, we straighten the edges according to the intended dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not be possible to bend the side boards clearly
The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides at the same time on both sides, if bending in turn can skew and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We attach the side board to the bow from one side - sew on, then from the second side the same thing, then one presses it bending the boards, the second pierces with nails towards the stern.
The boards were tied together as well as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some form was drawn, it is easier further. In the same way, we bend the second row of side boards. We don't hit a lot of nails when stitching, because we still have to caulk! Next, we saw off the excess ends of the boards, both side and bow with the stern. Then you adjust the faceplate.
After the end of the assembly, you work with a plane, where you round it, level it, passing the entire launch, cut out beautifully frames. After fixing the beauty, we caulk, add nails in places, fasten the oarlocks, grind the bottom, nail the strips to the bottom, grind them, then paint. We also make siduhi as it is convenient to paint them. Our oars are shifting, we change the boats, but the oars are the same. The oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so no problems.
In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in photography, so that it was clear. Two boats have been put together today, one for the opening, the second just recently. The boats were made the same, one was tested, the second at the stage of completion of work.
If anyone has any questions you may ask, I will definitely clarify! Questions really usually arise during self-production, suddenly someone will take and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is irreplaceable!
Thank you for the attention!
Drawings and photos
Buying a boat is quite costly. That is why many are wondering how to make their own small and reliable ship on their own. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Nevertheless, he is quite painstaking and requires a lot of attention to detail.
The first and most important step is determining what the vessel will be made of. There are not so many options, let's look at them:
- Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
- Plastic.
- Steel.
- Wood.
- Plywood.
Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are immediately evident. But now we are talking about a boat made of wood.
Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the next stages of planning and preparation.
Manufacturing features
There are really many features, so let's take a closer look at them:
- Working with wood. The first and main feature is the ability to work with wooden structures and with a tree in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads this or that material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on working with wood. It is very easy to find them, they are freely available on the Internet.
- The choice of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaks. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
- Place of assembly. For manufacturing, you will definitely need a lot of space, as well as time. For professionals, manufacturing and assembly can take from 4 to 10 days, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. This is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
- Instruments. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will look at later). In addition, it is desirable to have an extra pair of hands at some stages of the assembly.
These are the main features that you need to know, but in the course of work, it is likely that you will have to deal with others.
Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production
Determine the size
One of the most important stages in the planning stage. The size depends on the capacity, carrying capacity and weight. It is very important to maintain the correct dimensions for the boat to be stable on the water.
You can change them at your discretion, but within reason:
- The length of the entire structure. The length can range from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people - about 3 meters. Three people - 3.5 - 4 meters. A boat with a length of 3 - 4 meters can easily withstand up to 5-6 people, the question here is more in comfort.
- Width. Also one of the main criteria. Average widths are 1 - 1.5 meters. The wider the width, the more stable it is wonderful. On the other hand, the wider the width, the less maneuverability. It is necessary to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone, depending on the body of a person, the load that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
- Board height. The average and recommended board height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it both above and below, depending on your desire.
It is on the basis of these dimensions that it will be necessary to do all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.
Moving on to the drawings, you must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. At the moment, a drawing can be made without having similar skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.
In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you need to immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller ones, but no less important details... It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that you do not have to adjust them in the future.
Basic planes required to construct a theoretical drawing of the boat hull
Required materials and tools
Having dealt with all the theoretical questions, we turn to practice. Collecting all tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, therefore, this process must be treated with special care.
Consider a list of tools and tools that will be needed during assembly:
This is a basic checklist of what will come in handy during assembly. In addition, other tools may come in handy in the process. For example, a hacksaw, hammer, clamps, etc.
Selection of boards for sheathing the bottom of a flat-bottomed boat
Manufacturing process
Let's move on to the most interesting, the manufacturing process. Let's represent it in the form of step-by-step instructions.
There is no room for haste and shortcomings, so we do everything very carefully and clearly:
Boat testing
After creating and assembling the vessel, we proceed to testing it.
You can test a boat in different ways, but it is best in how many stages:
- The first waterproof test can be done outside. To do this, we turn the boat over and set it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next, pour a large amount of water onto it. For this it is best to use a hose and "water" for 5-10 minutes. The boat can then be turned over and checked to see if water has entered.
- Now, knowing that the schooner does not let water through, you can go to the exit to the big water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat starts to quickly gain water, it is much easier to get it aground.
Let's take a look at a few tips for a beginner in the tricky business of construction and assembly:
- When assembling, do not spare the materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of the boat, it is worth spending extra time, but firmly go over all the joints with glue or resin. In the future, it will be very difficult to correct such errors.
- To do with a margin. The excess parts of everything can be removed, for example, sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This also applies to all other details.
- Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them with a drill. This will prevent cracking.
- Don't skimp on materials. The better the wood, the longer and better it will serve in the future.
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