From the last article, we decided on the choice of a car and finalized the suspension. By not tricky actions, we underestimated the car and made the suspension stiffer. Which is what was required for a real cramp. But making a car hard and knocked down doesn't mean it's ready to drift. As we already know, drifting is a high-speed cornering with a forced stall of the rear axle into a skid. Such drifts are controlled, which means that driving must be precise.
To achieve good handling of the car, you can redesign the steering. Here we face two stages of management rework:
- Replacing the standard steering rack with a short-stroke, if the steering gear was originally installed, then a mandatory adjustment or replacement with a rail;
- Replacement of levers and steering knuckles to increase the angle of rotation of the wheels.
Replacing the steering rack
When cornering at high speed, it is very important to have an instantaneous transfer of the effort of your hands to the wheels. As they say, the efficiency of your actions should be maximum. And with a standard rail, this cannot be done quickly. As a result, the maneuver will fail and the car, at best, will roll out of the track. This problem is especially relevant in domestic cars with a full turn of the steering wheel to the stop in 4 turns. Standing up against a stock foreign car with 3 and 2.4 turns is a useless business.We set the rail to 2.9 turns and have some changes for the better. Minus turnover and you can already count on results.Benefits of replacing the rail:
- Sharp control;
- Reducing the number of revolutions;
- Smooth and light rotation of the steering wheel;
A sports rake for VAZ owners will cost about 9-10 thousand rubles, but the effect of its work is much higher. By changing the rail, we go over to the eversion of the wheels and here you can already practice your engineering skills. If the makings are there, of course. But you can go the beaten path and order sports levers and fists.
Replacing levers and steering knuckles
Inversion of the wheels is done to increase the skid angle. In amateur "pokatushki" and in professional competitions, it is the skid angle that is important, it creates beauty, enthusiastic cries of fans and judges' points. Therefore, we approach the angle issue thoroughly. So, let's start with a relatively simple and at the same time very non-budget way to make the desired wheel angle. We order levers and fists from Wisefab. I must say that the price for a set, depending on the car, varies from 1200 to 2500 euros. At the current rate, the price tag is impressive for the suspension elements. However, for novice drifters, this is a great opportunity to stand head and shoulders above the rest of the riders. Weissfab is considered a kind of scam in certain circles. The drifting community sometimes laments to ban such a whale from competition. Inversion from it turns out "hellish". Achieving such an angle with the help of other levers or homemade ones is problematic.Features of Wisefab
It's all about the unique geometry. A completely new generation of drift-specific suspension. The design of the knuckle allows you to shift the center of gravity lower, thereby reducing roll and increasing stability. For those who choose Weissfab, there is no need to install a stabilizer. This is one of the advantages of the design, but also its disadvantage. Also with these levers, the contact patch of the wheels with the road is much higher, the "muzzle" becomes wider due to the lengthened levers and a huge reach. The peculiarities of driving such a car are that you get used to a huge inversion and it becomes problematic to drive correctly. Of the minuses, it is possible to note the poor maintainability of the structure. The hinges are weak and quickly fail in the case of urban use. Adjustment is not convenient either, in order to change the length of the swivel joint it is necessary to pull out the pain on the stretcher.Many unique tuning elements, weissfab is made only for popular models. A dilemma arises. Make an analogue yourself or alter the suspension with a stretcher. Both, the process is quite dreary, requiring special skills and tools. But still, redesigning the suspension is a quicker thing.
DIY sports levers or customization
Custom or "collective farm tuning" will be used in case of a shortage of funds. But many do not have money, and not everyone has the skills, so the minimum percentage of homemade pendants comes out. Let's start with the most basic one - we cut the limiters on the lower arm. The eversion has increased. Further, the stroke of the rail should be increased, but since we already have a new rail, there is no need for it. We transfer the ear of fastening of the steering tip, thereby increasing the angle of rotation of the wheel. You can digest it yourself, or you can order ready-made version... But we are not finished with the rail. It is necessary to take it forward in order to get rid of biting from rods standing at a large angle. To do this, we saw off the fastenings of the river and take them out, about 20 mm forward.All that remains is to get rid of unnecessary interference. Tenshenes will prevent you from turning to the end on the inner side, and a spar on the outer side. It is treated by increasing the lower arm. We cut it and weld on a 30 mm spacer. The consequences of lengthening the lever were also not long in coming. The tip rested against it. Only tuned tips with special geometry will help. As a result, we get the desired inversion angle.
It should be noted that in order to facilitate the work with the transformation of the control, it is necessary to get rid of unnecessary body elements in the places of work. Some masters get so used to this look that they go to competitions or night "rides" with a "bare" front. But their actions are not devoid of logic, excessive cooling is never superfluous, especially since cramps are not for pleasure walks along the boulevard ring and aesthetics does not suit him.
It is known that the angle of rotation of the wheels (eversion) on VAZ classic cars can be increased by simply collecting money and buying a system like wisefab. After a difficult installation, the angle of rotation can be increased up to 65 degrees... Similar devices are sold for other vehicles as well.
Car enthusiasts have implemented many of their own ways to increase the steering angle on VAZ cars, ironically calling such methods custom tuning or β collective farm tuningβ, However, such mechanisms are not inferior in strength and manufacturability of installation to those purchased in the store.
Do-it-yourself drift wheel inversion on a classic work process
The sequence of work to increase the angle of rotation of the wheels of VAZ cars is as follows. It is not difficult to perform it, understanding why each action is performed.
- Cut off the limiters on the levers.
- Cut off the limiters on the steering gear.
- Buy elongated 4 bolts with washers for the generator of the VAZ "eight".
- Install negative camber by replacing the bolts from the kit with the purchased generator sets.
- Making a bipod.
The axis of eversion is a straight line passing through the ball joints. To this axis it is necessary to move the steering tip as much as possible.
To do this, carry out welding work on the bipod. You should know that the bipod is made of good metal that can be welded with any kind of welding.
When marking the bipod for trimming, it is necessary to combine the pivot axis with the steering knuckle as much as possible, while the attachment point on the rod should be at the same level. Try to create a clearance of the head and bipod arm at maximum eversion.
In the case when the manufactured shortened bipod still comes into contact with the brake caliper, it can always be moved forward.
The easiest way is to swap the brake caliper mounting brackets from the left side to the right. In this way, you can save a few centimeters of distance and leave the turner alone.
Remove the edge under the hub installation, otherwise the hub will not enter the interior of its seat. The tapered hub bearings remain in place, the cone sits on them and is secured with long bolts and washers.
It remains to install new extended brake hoses, for this it is best to just buy Niva brake hoses. Even longer brake hoses at the "GAZelle", they can also be used at the VAZ.
- Install the brake disc.
Buy ordinary spacers for VAZ, you need 4 of them on each side - a total of 8 pieces. The spacers need to move the brake disc. The removal must be done, since the caliper is displaced by a centimeter by transferring the brackets and installing spacer washers.
It remains to fit the spacers in place, inside the brake disc, fix the spacers. The total height of the spacers, each equal to 5 mm, must compensate for the offset distance of the caliper.
- Fabricate extended tie rods using a standard ferrule. Position the bend of the tip so that there is no contact with parts. The bottleneck is the possible contact with the side member.
It is possible that the new mechanism will rub against the internal parts of the body. They can be cut off with a grinder, as they will not spoil the outer surface of the body. Most often, body trimming cannot be avoided in the area of ββthe upper ball.
Testing the operation of the entire mechanism can result in deformation of the overcooked bipod, so try to conduct "hard" tests, for example, do not go around the curb at a full angle of rotation. A robust bipod is a guarantee of safety. Technical refinement of the car, this is on our own.
In this article, we will look at how you can make an inversion on the classics.
We will go straight to the heart of the matter. You can make an eversion on a classic in two ways. The first is the so-called Wisefab system, the second is the so-called "custom tuning". In the first case, everything is simple. We take and collect money, then that cherished day of buying and installing a ready-made kit comes.
But we are not like people, so we will practice dancing with a tambourine.
The first thing to do is to cut the limiters on the steering gear, as well as on the levers.
See the picture of how to do it on the levers.
We look at the picture of how to do it on the gearbox.
For correct negative camber, you will need to buy bolts from the generator.
This picture will look like this. See below.
Now a little about the BIP
It is necessary to move the steering tip closer to the eversion axis. There is no need to be afraid of cooking, because the BIP is made of such metal that it will never fall apart. As practice shows, the cooking place will be intact, the levers will bend.
The cropping point will look like this. See image.
It was so, but it is now. Or rather, how you should have done it.
Falls into the swing axis as much as possible. It is not necessary to zoom in too much, because the steering tip may rest against the lever itself.
You need to take out the caliper itself. And swap from left to right. You can, of course, call your uncle, who will make this creation on the machine for you.
The hub will be in place and will not move. We take the bolts and washers and slap them all together.
VAZ spacers in the amount of four pieces are simply necessary. You need to use them to remove the brake disc. You need to make them go inside the brake disc.
Then we make the steering rod... The kink is important because it will help avoid contact with other parts. The weakest point, where? It is in this place that the structure is unstable, because there is a light touch on the curb.
If you did everything right, then you will definitely need to either fold the front arches, or cut out the excess metal with a grinder. And at the very end, we get the following construction in which they can easily:
It should be noted that VAZ has been working in the field of mechanical engineering for a long time. In the nineties, many drivers were able to appreciate the following VAZ models: 2110, as well as 2115. Such cars really looked like foreign cars, for example, in the "ten" they used glued glass, a six-valve engine, as well as an aerodynamic body, which ensured an almost silent movement of the vehicle ...
YaAZ-204 is a four-cylinder diesel engine, which in fact is a modification of the YaAZ-206. In which the running action in any of the cylinders is performed due to a single turn of the crankshaft, that is, for 2 piston strokes. This motor is intended for trucks, it was published at the automobile plant in the city of Yaroslavsk from 1947 to 1970.
We present to your attention information about the two-stroke six-cylinder diesel engine, which was produced from 1947 to 1970, the YaAZ-206 engine. Also, there is its modification, but only on four cylinders - this is the YAZ-204 engine.
Hello everyone!
Today we will tell you how to make an eversion on the classics ourselves.
To begin with, we saw the limiters on the levers and on the steering gear.
On the levers:
On the steering gear:
To make the desired negative camber, there will be few standard bolts, to replace the standard bolts, you will need to buy bolts from the VAZ 2108 generator (4 pcs), we make negative camber with washers so that it looks something like this:
Moving on to the bipod.
The goal is simple, move the steering tip closer to the eversion axis (the upper and lower ball are looking at each other - these are the steering axes). And do not be afraid to cook, the bipod is made of such a metal that it will not fall apart, and the welding place will not fall apart if it is simply boiled, all the levers will bend more likely and the spars will be gone before the bipod bursts.
Approximate cutting location:
It should look something like this: 
Most likely, when you weld it, it will rest against the brake caliper. This is treated by moving the caliper forward and installing the Niva brake hoses. When designing the bipod, try to get as much as possible on the pivot axis. If you look from the rear (in the direction of the car's movement) at the steering knuckle, then the location of the attachment to the steering rod should be at the same level. BUT do not come too close, otherwise the steering tip, when everted, may rest against the lever.
Caliper preparation and removal.
We take a steering knuckle with a hub and a caliper that holds the brake caliper. Notice the bend (inward), and just swap them from left to right. This will give you a centimeter of stem without unnecessary krailov. You can, of course, be perverted and order from a turner ...
The next step - you need to remove the edge so that the hub goes inside (who did not understand to make a hole just larger, remove the edge of a smaller circle and make it one big) 
In this case, the hub will remain in its place and will not move anywhere, its tapered bearings are put on the cone. We take long bolts and washers and mold everything together.
We put on the brake disc and check that everything slows down.
We take spacers (ordinary VAZ) in the amount of 8 pieces (4 per side), they are just about 0.5 cm each, which will give the removal of the brake disc itself.
Taxiing.
We make long tie rods. Here is a standard tip (this difference in size is the inversion). The bend is very important, it helps to avoid contact with other parts, and most importantly with the side members.
Hello everybody! Today we will talk about eversion, more precisely, about the large angle of rotation of the wheels on Nissan silvia... Silva was taken first for a reason, since this model is one of the most popular drift cars.
And the next one will be Sky, well, in general, we will go in the order of this heading: Choosing a car for drifting.
As you know, for a good and high-quality skid, a large eversion is necessary. On different drift cramps, this is achieved in different ways, but in reality there are only 2 options. It is either to buy a ready-made set of increased inversion or to farm. Nomadically 1 option is significantly more expensive than 2.
How do they make such a hellish twist on the Nissan Silvia?
Inversion, theory!
If you want a hellish eversion, then you need to do the following things:
1)
Extend wheelbase wide wishbones otherwise the wheels will rest on the side members. To do this, you can take levers from c14, c15 or Skyline r33 (they are wider), you can buy megan-type adjustable levers. For drift cramp, you can use the lever and expand it as you like.
If you cheat a little, you can do some of this "work" with a disc offset or a spacer under the disc, but compensates for this a little. But it will help a lot if the disc rests on the thrust.
2) The most productive question to be solved is the fists, or
We leave the stock
We modernize it - we cut the eversion limiter (under the tie rod mount, although they do not rest against us, there are no stops on the lever and somehow they go higher)
important point this is the transfer of the tie rod mount closer to the fist axis, the closer the mount is, the greater the angle the fist will turn, but you will have to give more effort ... who will you scare
options:
make adapter plates
and weld them to the fist, this will solve two problems at once
It was not possible to find drawings on them, but this is purely individual. They are welded to the knuckle on both sides, they can be reinforced with kerchiefs, the plate pin is inserted into the old hole for attaching the steering rod, and everything turns out to be quite safe and suitable for operation. Along the way, the problem of understating the car is being solved, more on that below.
For drift cramp, you can stupidly saw off and digest the bipod on the fist.
The easiest option- buy tuned fists, cooked by professionals from thick sheet metal with all necessary amplifiers
such as
3) Tie rods and tips you need to select according to the length of your "config", you can make adjustable rods from several. And in the end, the length turned out to be longer than necessary, but there is a margin for cutting a part of the thread both from the rod and from the tip. So the question is open. This is the difference in the length of the steering rods and their diameter.
4) Steering rack if the standard remains, then you can put in it spacers such as
These spacers give the rail an additional 18mm travel (or how much you do it and how much the rail will allow), because as a standard the rail rests not on the end of the thread on it, but on the steering rods, these spacers will allow the rail to go another 13mm from one side and 5mm on the other. Rapid demise of the rail seals is possible.
After all these procedures, there may be a bite due to the transfer of the fastening of the rods closer to the axis of the fist, for this it will be necessary to transfer the fastening of the rail on the stretcher.
But you can carve out such spacers, install them horizontally and you will no longer have to transfer the rail.
5) to the arches of the wings far away and they should not interfere, therefore, file them or not - this must be decided in place depending on the dimension of the rubber, clearance, wishbones and the resulting eversion.
The whole theory. You can drastically change the suspension and steering principle if you're completely bored.
And so we buy a ready-made kit
Europe is fierce, here's a kit for an eversion! It's Wisefab! Probably the most expensive way.
A collective farm with an inversion!
A trade-off between price and angle. Let's start in order, the stock eversion rests on the limiters on the lower arm, which means we completely remove this limiter, the eversion is quite a bit but increases. Now we do not have enough rail travel, which means we need to increase this move with such spacers.
As you can see, one washer (placed on the right (driver's) side) increases the stroke by 5mm and one spacer (placed on the passenger side) increases the rail travel by 13mm and increases the length of the steering rod! It works like this:
Next, you need to move the ear fastenings steering tip to the outside, you can either digest it yourself (as I did) or order ready-made such completely on sale)) The picture below perfectly explains why this is needed:
In practice, it looks something like this:
Further, the transfer of the steering rack axis. What is it for: when shortening the bipod, the tie rods become at a very large angle, which leads to the biting of the rack, that is, lining up a straight line: tie rod ball - steering tip ball - lever ball. As soon as such a straight line is lined up, the rail is not able to turn the wheel back, therefore, the car will continue to drive with the steering wheel turned ...
There are two solutions:
Spacers with the transfer of steering rods, but with such spacers, the load on the rail increases
Rack transfer, steering rack mounts are sawn off and moved forward by 20mm
Well, then the tenshens (when turning inward) and the langeron (when turning outward) interfere with turning the wheel, this is solved by lengthening the lower arm, that is, increasing the track, and somehow separating the wheels from the tenshnrods. The lever is simply cut in half and a 30mm spacer is welded in, you can also replace the levers with longer ones, from 34 sky and put wheels with good offset.
Collective farm kit:
Well, something like this, the eversion turned out to be very peasant. He confined himself to the fact that the steering tips rested against the lower levers, we will decide with tuned tips.
Well friends, that's the end of the first article. Of course, large inversion angles can be achieved in other ways, this is just a general idea. Which option to use is up to you! You can see other information about the turn in other Nissan Silvia projects.
Thank you for being with us! Friends SUBSCRIBE!
Loading ...