How to properly assemble a wardrobe. Fastening wall cabinets to the wall Doors do not close

It's no secret that the main customers of cabinet furniture are women... Who if not they better understand where to place a wardrobe or? On which side are drawers needed, in what quantity, in what width and depth. At what height you need to make the hanger so that it is convenient to reach for it, what distance between the shelves will be convenient for storing linen. What should be in the end! All this is decided by our beloved women. How pleasant it is for us to work for you, and even more pleasant to see delight on your faces upon completion of the installation, and to observe how pleased you are with the new purchase.

All that is required from us is to help determine the dimensions and, to give advice based on the experience of location, draw a intelligible drawing with exact dimensions. The main designer is, of course, you.

Let me point out some points that I am sure you may find useful in decorating your home.

It happens that the customer, and actually we, are so carried away by the choice of colors and the arrangement of the shelves that we forget to think about the ceiling inside the cabinet. Sometimes I hear the following phrase - "My husband will make the ceiling inside me, we will think of something ...".

When the installation ends, the euphoria of a successful purchase passes, it suddenly turns out that it is not so easy to cover the ceiling in a wardrobe. Obstacles appear in the form of vertical posts, shelves that restrict access, compartment doors that you do not want to take out. Working from a stepladder under the ceiling is problematic.

Then you call us. We are announcing an amount of about 5000r. which does not make you happy. You have a question - "Why is it so expensive?" Because making a ceiling in an already finished closet is quite difficult for the reasons listed. Most importantly, it may not turn out as beautifully as if we did it from the very beginning. Therefore, please consider this moment immediately. If repairs in your apartment are in full swing, wires are hanging, old wallpaper is visible in the place where the cabinet will stand, it is better to immediately close this mess with the help of repairmen, or ask us to do it. Then you will not have a constant reminder of the terrible ceiling when you open the compartment doors.

The same must be taken into account on the back wall of the built-in wardrobe or dressing room. The apparent ease of painting or gluing the back wall in an already finished product seems like a difficult job. Before painting the wall water-based paint, it is necessary to glue all the chipboard adjacent to the wall with masking tape so as not to stain anything. And it seems very difficult to glue, say, a film on a wall or wallpaper. The gaps between the wall and the product frame will be visible. It is better not to waste time and energy on such work, but to do it in advance beautiful wall, or ask us to do it with HDF.

The next moment is crooked walls and floor

When you make repairs in an apartment, you should understand that if you level the floor and walls once to perfect condition, you will deprive yourself of a lot of problems not only in further finishing the room, but also when installing cabinet or built-in furniture. I understand that it costs a lot of money and not everyone can afford it, then you need to be prepared for the cracks between the shelves and the walls, if it is built-in furniture. Cabinet furniture may also not fit snugly against the wall, and swing doors may be skewed due to curved floors.

Of course, we level cabinet furniture with linings and, as a rule, it turns out badly. When you eliminate the vertical gap between the back wall of the cabinet and the wall of the dwelling, the gap between the bottom shelf of the cabinet and the floor increases. We have to choose, either we put the cabinet straight, then there will be a gap in the front, or we leave it tilted, but everything is perfect along the facade.

We see your disappointment, it is unpleasant for us to leave you thinking that you didn’t get what you wanted, and this rarely happens.

The use of various accessories and skirting boards does not always give the desired effect. Additional planks and strips often hide the airiness of the product, and the adjustable legs, which can be used in cabinet furniture, create a headache during cleaning and hide the useful space inside the cabinet. Please take this into account.

Watch the video below, in which we show one of the options for leveling the floors.

Often I hear - "Yes, we have smooth walls." But over the four years of the company's existence, today (03/25/2014) we have met three apartments with perfect repair. The walls were so even that the furniture stood up like a glove, and we spent not a day or two, as usual, on built-in furniture, but on average 5 hours. In one case, the landlord worked as a foreman for the builders, so he monitored the quality of the repairs.

Therefore, if you have an old house, the walls were not aligned, be prepared for small surprises in the form of cracks between the furniture and the walls.

One more point. We are faced with the problem of crooked door jambs. For example, we are installing a built-in wardrobe. We install bumpers for compartment doors according to laser level, strictly vertical. The platband of the interior door gives out its curvature in relation to the bump stop. It can be seen that the clypeus is fixed, not strictly vertically, but slightly obliquely. What to do? Either we make the compartment doors as expected, or we adjust to your platband, the compartment doors will be tilted. The client is often confused. Therefore, if you are installed interior doors, check the quality not only by appearance and closing locks, but also evenness with the help of a building level.

All modern kitchen sets are equipped with wall cabinets. They allow you to save space with good capacity. Located at eye level, such lockers are very convenient to use and they are always filled with a lot of things, creating a serious load on the hinged mechanisms. Therefore, it is very important to make reliable and high-quality fastening of the cabinet to the wall.

Content:

Choice of cabinet height

Before you start attaching wall cabinets to the wall, you need to choose the right height for hanging them. It is determined based on the main criterion - the growth of the owner of the kitchen. On average, the distance is approximately 50-60 cm from the countertop to the bottom of the wall cabinets. According to GOST, this value is equal to 45 cm.

In the event that it is required to place wall cabinets above the refrigerator or above a high oven, then the height of these items determines the desired level of hanging of the cabinets.

Existing cabinet hinge mechanisms

The use of modern fixing accessories greatly simplifies the work associated with hanging kitchen cabinets. It allows you to eliminate small errors in the marking and increases the strength of the entire structure. At the same time, very little effort will be required, and all the work can be done independently, without anyone's help.
For fixing the cabinet to the wall, a specially prepared rail and a device called a hinge are mainly used.

The hinge is equipped with a hook that is attached from the inside to the side wall of the cabinet and remains invisible from the outside.

Mounting plate

The first way is to hinge on a mounting plate.

The advantages of this method:

all work can easily be done by one person, since there is no need to support the cabinet when marking is done. This greatly facilitates the task, and also allows you to hang cabinets with high accuracy;
thanks to special adjusting screws, the location of the cabinets can be changed by making them higher and lower, as well as closer to the wall or away from it. This mechanism allows you to almost accurately align the cabinet, which is quite difficult, and when using ordinary hinges, it is not always impossible;

there are specially made notches on the rail for hanging the cabinet, with which you can easily adjust its length;
all necessary installation can be carried out even when kitchen apron already attached;
there is no need to use a border for alignment;
it is quite simple to do not only mounting on a rail, but also dismantle. Basically, hanging kitchen cabinets in this way takes no more than 1.5 hours.

Disadvantages:

first of all, the high cost of the entire set, which includes a mounting rail and hinges. But this is not a serious problem, given that a lot of time is saved as a result;
Another disadvantage of this method is that due to the loose fit of the cabinet to the wall, a small gap is noticeable in the upper part.

Furniture hinges

The second method is more affordable, but will take more time and will require additional help. It will use hinges and fasteners.

First, the upper limit is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along the length of all cabinets that need to be hung.

Then the level determines the accuracy of its outline (there are cases when, due to an uneven floor, the result is distorted).

The first point is marked on the resulting line, a hole is made with a punch or drill, and fasteners are installed. Then the cabinet is taken and suspended temporarily in order to locate the next fixture with absolute precision. In this case, one should not be guided by only one drawn line, but the evenness of the cabinet itself must be checked with a level.

The whole further process is carried out in the same way. When all the cabinets are attached and their location is checked by the level, you can start connecting them with furniture screws to each other. The final stage of work is the installation of a connecting decorative cornice, which is screwed to the upper base with screws.

Now all that remains is to hang the facades, install the shelves, see if the doors work normally, and, if necessary, correct the inaccuracies using the adjusting screws. This whole process requires concentration and good attention, as well as an insightful assistant, without whose help it is quite difficult to correctly calculate the required distance for fasteners.

The structure of the rear wall of the wall cabinet

The progress of the mounting work will directly depend on the design of the rear wall of the wall cabinets.

In the first case, the back wall is nailed and has no grooves. Therefore, when hinged on a mounting plate, the upper part will not fit snugly, and the cabinet will turn out with a slope. To avoid this, an indent must be provided at the bottom of the cabinet, which corresponds to the width of the mounting plate. To do this, you can nail a thin rail or calculate the height of its hinge in such a way that it "fits" onto the kitchen apron. In the latter case, the fasteners should be made already with the kitchen apron installed.

In the second case, the back wall is attached with a recess.

This design of wall cabinets is more convenient, as it allows you to hang them not only overlapping the kitchen apron, but also end-to-end. But when installing cabinets without overlap, it is important that the apron is positioned perfectly level, as even a slight skew will immediately catch your eye.

How to attach the cabinet to the wall using a mounting plate

Preparatory work

It is desirable that the walls are smoothly aligned;
if work is done on corner kitchen, then the angle formed by the walls should be exactly 90 degrees;
all work on electrical installation, placement of sockets for the hood, outputs of the upper lamps must be completed;
you should also immediately prepare the wall on which the cabinets will be hung. It must be painted or covered with wallpaper and the kitchen apron must be fixed in advance. Since with the installed cabinets, it will be extremely difficult to do all this.

Instruments

To properly hang kitchen cabinets on hand, you must have the following tools:

drill - can be electric or manual. It is needed to drill holes for fasteners. If you have to work on a load-bearing wall, you will need a hammer drill or drill with this function;
level;
roulette;
screwdriver;
hammer;
clamps are an auxiliary tool that will be required if you want to connect the boxes to each other to create the effect of the solidity of the entire structure;
if installation will be carried out on an anchor, a wrench of the appropriate size will be needed;
well, of course, you need to prepare the required number of fasteners. To fix the hinges to the cabinets, screws are required (as a rule, manufacturers equip wall cabinets with them). Screws with wall plugs are required to secure the rail to the wall. If you wish, you can buy special ties to fasten the cabinets to each other.

How to fix the cabinet to the wall - step by step instructions

First of all, using the adjusting screws, it is necessary to fix the hooks in the middle position. After that, they are attached from the inside on the side walls in such a way that the hook looks outward by only 2-3 millimeters and can freely cling to the fastening bar.
Now you can start drawing the markings on the wall. In this case, one should be guided by the basic rules:

if the location of the hanging cabinets depends on large-sized kitchen appliances or tall objects, then they must be put in their places at the time of marking;
when hanging on a mounting rail, you need to know in advance whether the cabinets will be installed overlapping on the kitchen apron, or still close to it;
The fastening strip should be located 3-4 cm below the upper edge of the section. To correctly calculate this distance, it is necessary to attach the strip to the back wall of the cabinet, in the same way as it will be attached to the wall. Then it will become clearly visible how many centimeters will need to be taken into account when applying the final markup.

Taking into account all these recommendations, using a level, two lines are applied, starting from the corner of the kitchen. Of these, one line indicates the top edge of the hinged rail and the other indicates the top of the cabinets.
Advice: in order to determine the horizontal position of the cabinets, it is best to use a level, and not measure the distance from the ceiling or floor, as later errors may occur. Even if you are sure that the ceiling or floor is level enough, you should not risk it, otherwise you will have to redo all the work again.

The upper edge of the bar is pressed against the prepared marking line (lower) and the required number of marks is made for the holes for the fasteners.

If the walls are strong and have good bearing capacity, then it is quite possible to divide the rail into small pieces of 15 cm, and each of them be installed exactly in those places where the awnings will be located. But if there is even the slightest doubt about the strength of the walls, it is not worth dividing the rail, but on the contrary, it is more stable to fix it to a larger number of fasteners.

it is often possible to face such a problem when, at the very beginning of drilling, the drill seems to jump. To eliminate this discomfort, small recesses are made in the drilling sites. They are done by hitting a punch with a hammer or, in its absence, on a strong nail;
if the wall crumbles during drilling, then first it is worth making a hole of a slightly smaller diameter, and then expanding it with a drill of the required size. Thus, it turns out to be much more accurate;
to measure the drilling depth, a prepared dowel is taken, applied to the drill and the desired distance is precisely memorized. If the hole has already been made and it is time to drive a dowel into it, then you need to make sure that there is enough depth. A hole that is too deep will make the job inconvenient;
v concrete wall it is quite difficult to drill a hole, even using a drill bit with a victorious tip. Therefore, in the absence of a perforator, a couple of light blows with a hammer on the punch will be required;
during work, special attention should be paid to the places where the electrical wiring passes.

Then the dowels are carefully driven into the holes, and the mounting rail is installed on the fasteners. Cabinets are attached to it using a hinge plate. Their position is regulated by screws with which the hinged mechanisms are equipped.

To create the effect of a closet to the entire wall, you will need to tightly connect them to each other. To do this, they need to be fixed in pairs with clamps, starting with corner cabinet... In order not to spoil their surface, place a wooden wedge between the cabinet and the clamp.

To prevent this problem, you will need to apply one of the following two methods:

in the places where the drill comes out, it is necessary to press down strongly wooden block(the denser the better);
first, a thinner through hole is drilled, and then, with a drill of the required diameter, it expands on both sides.

This completes the fastening of the wall cabinets, it remains only to install the shelves, fix the doors and adjust them using the screws that are on the hinges.

Here are some tips.

Sometimes the unevenness of the floor can be corrected by placing a strip of fiberboard or chipboard under the cabinet.
With a slightly inclined floor, a suitable solution to the problem is to put the wardrobe on adjustable legs, perfectly align the bottom, and then close the legs with a beveled plinth.
If the curvature of the walls is small, it is not necessary to level them, and the door can be tilted to the desired angle using the adjusting screws.
A common problem with a wardrobe is poor door movement. Possible cause there may be loose lower rollers. This is easy to fix. There are two holes at the ends of the vertical frames at the very bottom under the brush (Schlegel). One of them is designed to adjust the lower wheels in height, this is done using a hexagon. By adjusting the lower wheels, you can not only raise or lower the doors by 2-3 cm, but also align the door if it is skewed and does not completely adjoin the side panel of the cabinet.
Even with a deviation of 5 mm, you can forget about the interchangeability of doors, because each door is adjustable on its side wall. When the door is moved to an adjacent position, an angular gap is obtained between it and the second side wall. That is why flat walls are so important for a built-in wardrobe. Also, interchangeability of doors cannot be achieved if the floor is inclined or has a wavy shape.
Additional floor inside the wardrobe not only decorative element, but also a way of leveling the main floor.
The ceilings must either be leveled for the installation of a built-in wardrobe, or a wardrobe with a ceiling must be ordered. Because even a slight curvature of the ceiling makes the movement of the cabinet doors "heavy". Likewise, the smoother the floor, the better the doors roll.
With the curvature of the walls, you will have to put an L-shaped false panel, which is adjusted according to the unevenness of the wall. As a rule, this is the only way to level the wardrobe with uneven walls and floor.
The difference between the vertical dimensions of the sides of the cabinet should not exceed 20 mm. If it is impossible to align, there is only one way out - to install a false panel, podium or roof.

Now, when decorating the interior, designers more and more often use the built-in household appliances, pieces of furniture - beds, wardrobes, tables and much more. This approach to furnishings saves space in small spaces. In modern interiors, built-in wardrobes of various shapes are widely used; they are made from artificial and natural building materials(wood, plastic).

Sliding wardrobes are used in bedrooms, living rooms, hallways

If you are doing repairs in a house or apartment with your own hands, you like to make furniture on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists, it is important to know how to correctly approach the process of assembling interior items. This is especially true for those who are taking the first steps in this direction. Thus, renew the furniture, you will save a significant amount.

Drawing of a built-in wardrobe in a niche

Most home craftsmen choose a wardrobe for making and assembling. It occupies a leading position among other types of furniture - universal, capacitive, it can be of various shapes and sizes, it does not need a lot of space to open doors. For these and many other reasons, people choose a wardrobe. Following step by step guide on assembly and installation, it can be mounted in a short time.

DIY wardrobe assembly instructions

Why is it preferable to assemble furniture yourself? There are many reasons for this.

You can design a wardrobe of any shape you want, add some flavor, implement any idea. Even if you turn to specialists, many are probably “too lazy” to spend time and effort on making your dreams come true, trying to dissuade you, or ask for a fabulous sum.
Assembling the furniture yourself, you completely take all the work under your control and be sure that there will be no "jambs".
You will purchase the necessary material and accessories yourself, choosing a quality product.
Making furniture with your own hands will give you a lot of pleasure, because such things create a completely different atmosphere in the house, you will be proud of the work done.
This work can be so exciting that you will think about starting your own business, starting to make furniture for friends, acquaintances.
No one else will have such an original and unique cabinet - this is your design project.
In addition to the above, the manufacture and assembly of furniture will significantly save the family budget.

Necessary materials

Popular materials for the manufacture of wardrobes

Do not rush to assemble a wardrobe from just about anything, decide on the material.

Wood	If you choose wood, remember that this material is not suitable for built-in wardrobes, as there is a high level of humidity in the niches. The wood should not be cracked or knotted. Wood furniture is environmentally friendly, there are no toxins in it, it is durable, looks aesthetically pleasing. Such interior items have a natural color and a unique pattern. In the future, you can carry out the restoration of damaged areas
Drywall	Of course, this is a suitable material for finishing works, but it is not suitable for making a cabinet. Lightweight but not strong. Outwardly, the structure will not look beautiful, you cannot do without putty and final finishing. If you plan to mount the backlight, you need to lay the wires during the construction of the frame
MDF, fiberboard, laminated chipboard	Quite often they are used in the manufacture of furniture, in particular, sliding wardrobes. The thickness of the slab should be 0.6-1.2 cm. In addition, PVC film is used, it can be combined with other materials without problems. MDF is environmentally friendly, therefore it is suitable for the production of furniture items for children
Chipboard	A widely used material made from compressed wood chips. A thermosetting synthetic resin is used for density. The material is easy to process
Fiberboard	Produced from woodworking waste, paraffin, antiseptics and ceresin are also used. Standard thickness material - 3.2-5 mm. Mostly bottoms are made of it. drawers and back walls
Plywood	Various headsets are made from it. Different tools are used to cut material of different thickness. Do not forget that the material is soft and can be damaged when tightening the screws. Also use film faced plywood
Furniture board	The most ideal material. It is durable, solid, environmentally friendly. Does not require large costs, you can implement any designer's idea, as a result, you will have a cabinet of any shape and structure

Sliding doors for wardrobes

DIY tools for assembling a wardrobe

Adhering to the instructions and diagrams, the following tools will be needed for assembly: a level (this device will help to assemble the cabinet perfectly evenly), a corner, a hammer (including a rubber one), a screwdriver with a Phillips and a straight nozzle, a ruler, a tape measure, a pencil, a screwdriver, drills for wood and metal, sandpaper.

In addition, you may need auxiliary tools - jigsaw, drill. Check that the material and fittings are in accordance with the scheme.

Expert advice. Very often, when making a wardrobe with your own hands, doors are made to order. They already have rollers mounted on them, as well as a strip of soft material... Doors are installed at the end of all work.

Assembling the frame

Stages self assembly standard wardrobe

How to assemble a wardrobe. First you need to install the base.

The basis of the wardrobe

Usually, such a plate is attached to the stands, which are located along the long side, using confirmations (these are euro screws, which have a recess in the head for a special hex key).

Special drill for confirmation, confirmation with plug and hex key for confirmation

Next, you need to place the internal partitions. On their lower edge there are holes where dowels must be installed before installation. What is a dowel? This is a small part of a bar with a circular cross-section that serves to secure wood joints.

Wooden dowel for furniture assembly

There are blind openings in the bottom plate, and they are provided for such dowels. Having connected the dowels and openings, we install the vertical partitions in the right place (here you cannot do without an assistant). To make the structure stable, we fix the shelves, which in this case serve as stiffeners. We fix them using confirmations. Fasteners must be fully tightened in this step.

Fastening the walls with Euro screws

We make the final assembly of the frame - we install the sidewalls and the top cover. All these elements must be installed at once. Let's say right away that this stage of work is influenced by design features and the location of the fasteners on them.

Installing the side and inner walls of the cabinet

First, we fix it with the base of the sidewall, fastening them to the bottom with confirmations. Then we lay the upper part and, in the same way, aligning all the holes, fasten it with fasteners. Here it is necessary to provide for a free run, due to the fact that it is necessary to align the entire base.

The base is connected to the body using corners of the confirmations

Aligning the structure

Checking cabinet diagonals during self-assembly

To align, follow these steps. Using a tape measure, we first measure one diagonal, then the other, and from the resulting difference in values, we determine where it is necessary to move the upper part of the cabinet so that its corners are completely straight. Having made the alignment in this way, we completely twist the confirmations.

We nail the sheets of chipboard

Fastening the back wall of the wardrobe

The next step in the assembly is to nail the fiberboard onto the back of the structure. These sheets not only form the back wall, but will also securely hold the structure, preventing it from loosening during the entire period of use. Usually, the canvases on the right side have a decorative treatment, it looks like a laminated colored surface. The sheets are fixed with small nails, they are hammered into the ends of each piece of furniture.

Here, in principle, it is necessary to determine the place where the nails are to be hammered, because the furniture elements are not visible on the reverse side, and the defects that result from the wrong choice negatively affect exterior view cabinet.

Place the rails - guides

Installing the positioner or stopper in the bottom rail of the wardrobe

Moving on to important point- mounting of rails for doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for sliding the rollers. The upper one is divided into two sections. In both, you must first drill holes in order to fix them to the base and top with screws, the holes must have a chamfer.

Drilling the upper rail for sliding wardrobe doors

Four holes on each plank should be enough. First, we fix the bottom rail, making markings in the right places. The distance from the edge of the base to the front edge should be 2.5 cm.

Installation of the upper guide when assembling the wardrobe

To make the doors move freely, install the cabinet strictly horizontally, using a level for this. It is desirable that it be more authentic. The upper rail is fixed like the lower one with the only difference that the holes are drilled staggered in all compartments. Attach them to screws. From the front end of the upper part to the beginning of the base of the rail, the interval should be 2 mm.

The lower guide profile is placed with an indent of 15 mm from the edge of the chipboard

We mount rods and accessories

Installing a bar in a wardrobe

In conclusion, it is necessary to install the rods for the location of the outerwear. First, you need to make a markup where the first holder will be fixed (it needs 3 self-tapping screws), we drill and tighten the screws. Then we install the second holder on the rod and press it with a screw. The resulting structure must first be tried on, if necessary, aligned horizontally, and then marked and fixed as the first.

Do-it-yourself box installation

We hang the doors

Door layout (top view)

After all the work done, you can install the doors. But first you need to check the chute in the lower bar for debris - it will interfere with the free movement of the rollers. We again check the horizontality of the planes, and also that all connections are well fixed.

Sliding wardrobe doors design

We hang the doors correctly - first of all we insert them into the upper rail, then the end rollers must be placed in the gutter of the lower one.

Installing doors in guides

Adjustment of doors when installed in a wardrobe

How to properly assemble a wardrobe with your own hands. In theory, there is nothing difficult in assembling a wardrobe, you need to competently approach the assembly process, show patience and accuracy. In the end, you will not only save money, you will have an original piece of furniture in your house that will transform the interior of the room.

Video: How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands. Furniture store "Mebelist"

Of course, the European fashion for built-in furniture has brought a special charm to modern interior Russian man in the street. But together with interesting solutions flaws in housing architecture have also entered the daily practice of furniture manufacturers. If earlier the buyer was content with the fact that any piece of paper or a board folded several times served as a salvation for the cabinet from instability, today clearly no one will put up with the precarious position of the furniture attribute, gaping gaps between the walls or the oblique geometry of the interceiling space. Times are not right!

The built-in furniture compositions were appreciated not only because of their aesthetic appeal. Their ability to significantly expand or visually reduce the spatial environment of the dwelling was appreciated by the owners of communal apartments and small apartments... However, to this day, when installing even the most common cabinet model, many specialists are faced with unpleasant "surprises" - uneven floors, walls and ceilings. This often makes the manufacturer "smash his head" over the next masterpiece of furniture.

Are degrees everything?

Built-in furniture, the production of which many companies are engaged in today, are made according to individual orders. Unlike the factory, which is produced with standard sizes, the built-in one has a direct dependence on the parameters of the area of the room, where the geometry of the room is no less important. This is especially important for wardrobes, as it is rectangular as standard and ideally requires level floors, walls and ceilings for installation. Unfortunately, most apartment owners cannot boast of an impeccable design of their home, and the problems of uneven surfaces fall entirely on the shoulders of furniture makers. Even at the measurement stage, experts record the slope of the floor and ceiling, the fall of the walls and, depending on the values obtained, make one or another decision.

The settlement of issues with the leveling of surfaces involves different variants... Since the goal of alignment in its bulk is the aesthetic appeal of the room, the specialists start from the visual perception of the geometry of the room. And the picture is not always harmonious. For example, if a bump with a height of only 1 cm is found on the wall, then, most likely, it will be noticed and offered to be corrected in the future. However, if the wall is overwhelmed by 5 cm, no one will notice it with the naked eye. It will also look quite acceptable if the corner of the room is not 90, but 87 or 93 degrees. That is why, even quite expensive repairs are often done by the "rule of thumb" method, which means leveling surfaces, getting flat planes, but not bringing the angles between them to 90 degrees. This method saves money, since less dry mixes are spent during the repair process.

It is this method of alignment that is not suitable for apartments where a wardrobe or other built-in furniture is planned. Since only one degree of deviation from a right angle gives a gap of about 1 cm. And deviations from a right angle can reach several degrees. That is why, already at the stage of apartment renovation, it is advisable to plan in advance the location of cabinets and other furniture attributes and take care of the geometry of the rooms. This method alignment is called "by beacons". However, when the uneven geometry of the dwelling does not allow to correct the deplorable state of the walls, ceiling or floor, and the customer certainly wants a built-in wardrobe or kitchen, the quality of the furniture will directly depend on the qualifications of the assembler.

“In principle, the unevenness of the floor surface up to three cm is not critical for the installation of a built-in cabinet. The modern aluminum system allows you to bring all this to the required level. When this value is more than three centimeters, then you have to use panels on the sides to compensate for the gap that is obtained on the sides of both walls. Or the second option - a wedge is made on the ceiling or on the floor, depending on the problem plane. Today, uneven walls and floors are found in 99% of measurements. In my practice, about 2–5% of orders were adjusted to the structural conditions of the dwelling, where the installation of cabinets implied the introduction of additional solutions. Moreover, for the most part, measurers face installation problems in the private sector, where uneven floors or walls are the most frequent occurrence, ”says Danil Biryukov, director of Dara Mebel LLC.

According to some furniture makers, an uneven floor is not a hindrance to installing a kitchen. And all due to the fact that the kitchen cabinets are placed on legs 10 cm high, which can be adjusted in height within a few centimeters. In general, the plinth covers 10 cm of space, in which you can do almost anything to keep the bedside tables level. With wardrobes, everything is much more complicated. The cabinet doors move on wheels, which, of course, are also adjustable. But at the same time, firstly, the adjustment range is limited to one centimeter. Secondly, with a large slope, the doors will move under the influence of gravity or, at least, they will have to be moved in both directions with different efforts, which, you see, is absolutely uncomfortable. Therefore, with a large slope of the floor, the doors are placed on a podium, set according to the level. So at the time of installation, the euphoria from a successful purchase can evaporate only due to the fact that it is not so easy to cover the ceiling in the closet, and the design of the furniture attribute of that and look at any touch will begin to "walk", and in general the closet will be have an unpresentable look.

As a rule, many people do not attach much importance to how this or that company approaches the issue of curvature, but today with furniture means it is possible to deal with this problem quite successfully.

False plank

Thanks to such a simple invention as a false plank, furniture makers in certain situations cope with uneven surfaces of housing. This rescue element is placed when the wall is vertical or tilted within 1-10 mm, as well as in the presence of a small wave. The gap between the wall and the cabinet is reduced by pressing the false plank against the wall, or fixing it vertically through the spacers. In this case, the resulting gap often has to be sealed independently with putties, putties or silicone. Alternatively, it is covered with a plastic decorative corner, which has a penny price, but helps to hide minor flaws in furniture problems. Planks are the most aesthetic option, easy to manufacture and install.

Of course, the walls cannot be leveled with them, but they are quite capable of hiding small irregularities. In the wardrobes, they were also used due to the fact that the anther brush glued to the compartment door leaves a dirty mark on the wall or wallpaper over the years. And the use of a plank protects the wall from dirt.

Restrictions on the use of strips differ for wardrobes and swing doors. For example, sliding doors can be tilted up to 20-25 mm with adjusting screws. Suppose, with a wall slope of 20-25 mm, theoretically, this step will be the solution. But again, the door is likely to jam when moving to the opposite wall. And if we add here an uneven floor, then a very ugly gap is formed from below between the horizontal strip of the compartment door and the floor. Since one corner of the door is strongly raised, all the beauty of the facade will come to naught, so it is advisable to use the bar only when the slope of the wall does not exceed 10 mm, at least not more than 15 mm. When it comes to swing doors, the restrictions on the slope of the walls are stricter - no more than 1 mm. So if the slopes of the walls absolutely do not fit into the manufacturer's standards, and everyone has their own today, then a box is considered a more acceptable element for dealing with uneven surfaces.

Box

The most popular solutions in the execution of boxes are U-shaped and L-shaped types. For the L-shaped box, the thickness of the construct is 7-10 cm, which is set vertically. Then the curvature or slope of the wall is marked out, and only after that the installation is started. The popularity of such elements among manufacturers is due to the fact that accurate measurements are not required for its use and the cabinet will stand in the required place like a glove. Often, boxes are allowed around the entire perimeter of the cabinet. On the one hand, this does not add to the aesthetic flavor of the built-in furniture. But this is an excellent way out of a situation when the walls, floor or ceiling have strong deviations from the vertical (horizontal) or curvature. Of course, you need to be prepared for the fact that some furniture makers will offer exactly the option with a box due to the ease of installation, even with a wall tilt of 5 mm. Since when making measurements, the specialist does not always have time, and often the desire, to explore almost every centimeter of the building. In a conversation with a designer, the same measurer for reinsurance will insist on the use of a box, so as not to make a mistake or to prevent a significant mistake with the order, and also not to tarnish the company's reputation.

Non-standard solutions

Of course, there are also unconventional ways to deal with curvature. The most exotic and unlikely are crooked doors. Suppose, when the wall is tilted by 3 cm, it will be necessary to put the box, but the following moment arises: the wedge will immediately catch the eye. After all, the greater the distance, the more visible the difference in width will be. However, if you run the same 3 cm through the door, then due to its width, this difference will practically not be visible, and at the same time the cabinet "from wall to wall" will be without the hated boxes. At the same time, the manufacture of such a solution, namely curved doors, requires a special approach and responsibility, because not only high accuracy of measurements is required, but also technological calculations. And also this design can be trite to assemble incorrectly, confusing the bottom with the top.

Another way to get rid of boxes is to imitate a 32 mm strip. When the overhang is trimmed along the uneven right wall, and an overlap is made on the left at a corner, and the result is a more than presentable cabinet. A similar solution is applied to the side panels, when the manufacturer kills two birds with one stone, the absence of right angles between the rear wall of the niche and the side walls becomes a solvable problem and the customer will receive a cabinet without any gaps. Accordingly, the installation of such strips is a little more difficult than fitting the box, but the result justifies the investment of time and effort.

Support

Of course, even the most ideal furniture on uneven surfaces begins to behave quite capriciously: it rattles, scratches the doors and strives to "fall" on its side. Someone, in the old fashioned way, puts planks and chips under the supports. But this method is far from ideal, especially if the house slowly and surely shrinks, and with it the floor changes its slope. Nowadays, furniture manufacturers supply cabinets and cabinets with adjustable supports to compensate for uneven floors. Moreover, the adjustment process becomes within the power of not only a professional furniture assembler, but also the consumer himself, just with the help of a simple L-shaped hex key. Almost all cabinet furniture today has adjustable supports, and the key is included in the kit. However, not all manufacturers report this in the product annotation.

The modern approach of furniture manufacturers in solving the problem of uneven surfaces is reflected in the equipment of furniture with special supports that allow you to change the height of the work surface up to 50 mm. Thus, the height difference can be eliminated if the functionality of the basement legs is used correctly when installed on an uneven floor.

The simplest adjustable support is represented by a set of screws with a plastic head and a counterpart, for example, a regular nut for a leg with an external thread, a "bar" nut or an angle bracket. The leg is adjusted by screwing the screw into the counterpart manually or with a screwdriver. The disadvantage of this design is the need for repeated unloading, turning the legs, moving the cabinet back and forth to assess the productivity of height adjustment. For heavy cabinetry, uneven surfaces can be easily dealt with by using adjustable feet. The system, designed to compensate for uneven floors and equalize the height of heavy wardrobes and wardrobes, even if they are filled to capacity with clothes, has successfully passed several stages of approbation, and today manufacturers are implementing it in almost all models of furniture products. The support has an adjustable zinc alloy screw foot, independent of the thrust bearing. This element facilitates adjustment, does not damage the floor, withstands a load of up to 175 kg per support and is often a newfangled design element. You can adjust the height with any tool through a hole drilled through the bottom of the structure with a diameter of 8 mm. Moreover, this element is attached to the furniture using two spikes that cut into the end of the frame, without drilling, and sometimes it is additionally fixed with screws. The foot of the support has a rounded chamfer, which makes it easier to slide the support along the floor surface when moving heavy furniture. The support is equipped with a screw with a size range of up to 15 mm and up to 25 mm. Also, furniture makers offer options for adjustable support to eliminate the difference in height between structures that do not have a base and a bottom raised above the floor. In this case, the adjustment process is reduced to using a slot / cross screwdriver or a 6 mm Allen key. The adjustable foot screw is usually made of zinc alloy, large diameter and with a large thread pitch. By the way, the plastic thrust bearing remains stationary at the time of adjustment, which makes it easier to change the height and prevents damage to the floor.

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