What can be made of glass for double-glazed windows. What can be made of glass: DIY crafts and the secrets of creating masterpieces. Create a mirror surface

If the house has unnecessary glass (whole or broken) that litters the space, do not rush to throw it away.

From it you can make beautiful product, or decorate existing items.

This good way use this material, since handicrafts and gifts made by hand are valued by people much more.

In this article, we will tell you what you can do with whole or broken glass, how to make a herbarium in it or bake a flower, how to turn its surface into matte or mirrored glass, and other subtleties of craftsmanship.

Glass is an versatile material used in the creation of various interior items.

It is used to produce not only dishes and furniture, but also paintings and panels.

You can even give a second life to a broken object using shards and fragments.

There is different kinds glasses differing depending on the application:

construction;
porous;
liquid;
artistic, decoration, etc.

Such a variety of materials allows a skilled person to create unique kaleidoscopes, make products of bizarre shapes and colors.

Many crafts even a beginner can create, the main thing is to have the necessary tools, patience and desire.

First you need to determine what exactly you want to make of glass. There are many depends on the imagination of the author and resources available.

All products can be roughly divided into categories:

household;
aesthetic.

Here are just a few examples:

candlestick decoration;
ornaments on glass, flower compositions;
small souvenirs from broken glass;
thematic installations;
decoration of household items - dishes, chandeliers, mirrors.

Let's figure out in order what items can be made from old unnecessary glass.

A shelf

Glass shelves are popular because able to easily fit into any interior... In addition, they can withstand significant loads, although they seem fragile.

Glass furniture looks good in small rooms - due to its transparency, it seems less noticeable, due to which it visually does not take up space in the room.

The location should be accessible for adults, but out of reach of children(so that the child cannot hang on it).

To make a shelf, you will need:

glass cutter (it is more convenient to use oil);
belt sander with abrasive paper (grit value should be equal to 120 units);
respirator, gloves and other protective equipment;
rulers (you will need to periodically check whether the layers are even).

It is created in the following order:

Aquarium

To make it yourself, you will need:

Silicate glass top grade.
Glue, which contains silicone. Look carefully for the information on the packaging: it must be stated that it is suitable for aquariums (it does not contain antibacterial substances that harm fish and plants).
About 8 pieces of small corners suitable for the predetermined dimensions.

When gluing parts, you need to remember certain requirements:

the seams must be thick, at least 2-3 mm;
the outer edges must be sanded, and those that are under the glue must not be touched.

The build process itself looks like this:

Do not rush to immediately "transport" fish and other marine life here. Spend 3-5 hour hydrotest- fill it with water and check whether the structure is leaking liquid, whether the seams are leaking, etc.

Now you have an idea of how to make an aquarium yourself at home.

Greenhouse

Glass is often used in the construction of wooden or metal greenhouses. This is a classic version of greenhouse structures that allows you to maintain the necessary microclimate inside.

If you have accumulated a lot of window glass remnants, they can be successfully used to create a greenhouse.

The walls and roof of such a structure are made of glass, which gives a number of advantages:

You can use the greenhouse all year round... The material retains its transparency, structure, appearance and thermal insulation properties.
By connecting the heating to it, you can grow plants in winter... In the summer clear glass transmits light, which allows plants to grow.
Glass resists abrasion and is easy to clean.
The walls of the structure can be easily replaced in case of damage... The change is inexpensive, and used glass is suitable for this.
Glass does not emit harmful substances and odors even with thermal exposure. It is environmentally friendly clean material, which is still easy to care for. The glass is resistant to cleaning chemicals.
Reinforced or tempered type (thermal glass) can withstand hail and other adverse weather conditions.

In addition to all these properties and attractive appearance lasting for years this design has disadvantages:

It is necessary to choose a reliable frame and prepare a solid foundation (such loads can withstand strip foundation), since glass characterized by increased weight... On the surface, you can't say so, but the material weighs a lot: for example, 4 mm square glass weighs about 10 kg, and the weight of a 6 mm layer is 1.5 times greater.
Building a glazed greenhouse will not be cheap.
Impact and mechanical impacts are weakly held by glass.
Glass has a high thermal conductivity, so it heats up and cools down quickly... This is especially harmful to plants when the daily temperature drops. Therefore, you need to take care of the system for maintaining the desired temperature inside the room.
A room made of glass can only be built in the form of a house.

It all starts with preparation:

Creation of a drawing of the future greenhouse, determination of its dimensions.
Choosing a suitable place. It is necessary to take into account the level of lighting, orient the room so that the heat is evenly distributed.
Taking into account the direction of the wind in a given area. It is best to protect the structure on the leeward side with some object (shrub or other small obstacle).
Determination of soil and relief features. Choose a dry and level place.
Calculation of the distance of the greenhouse to the nearest source of electricity and water supply. The closer, the easier it will be to build a heating and watering system for plants.

Below is shown, where should not be located greenhouse. If the wrong choice is made, the greenhouse may collapse, or the grown plants will grow more slowly.

A smart solution would be to create a wall greenhouse. This will save the area of the site, reduce the distance to water and electricity and spend less money on construction.

Below is a typical drawing. If desired, it can be changed taking into account the desired dimensions.

Drawing-based elected Construction Materials ... The foundation must be at least 0.5 meters in height and have a solid frame - metal or wood (bars or profiles measuring 5 by 5 cm, the distance between the posts - up to 0.8 m, based on the dimensions of the glass and the frame itself).

Can be used different types glass. The main thing, to match the dimensions of the frame... For example:

single (2.5 mm thick) suitable for side walls installed in wooden frame small size;
double (up to 3.5 mm) cannot be used as a top window;
display case (6 mm) will become a strong wall, but will need reliable fasteners and supports;
multilayer will fit in almost any part.

Pick up glasses based on the purpose of the structure.

If the greenhouse contains tropical plants, it is better to use multi-layer glazing, which will reduce the cost of internal heating.

Ordinary glasses are also suitable for greens and vegetables.

The best growth is provided by double-glazed windows. There are several types of them:

single-chamber;
two-chamber;
heat-saving;
energy saving.

Double-glazed windows from old ones are perfect plastic windows.

You will need to prepare the following building materials:

support corners;
wooden beams or metal bases for each side of the frame;
beams;
polyurethane foam and hardware;
glass or double-glazed windows;
sealant (for fixing and insulating glazing);
details for the door (handle, lock, hinges);
corners on which wooden parts will be attached.

Cords, pegs, containers, buckets and shovels are needed for marking and preparation of the foundation... A hacksaw, chisels, a glass cutter, an electric planer and a building level will be needed already when assembling the greenhouse.

Now that everything is ready, we will tell you in detail how to make a greenhouse.

The assembly is carried out in the following order:

At the selected location, you need to plan the soil and remove vegetation. Mark the trenches with pegs and cords.
We dig trenches according to the planned markings (depth 0.4 m, width 0.2 m). Let's plan the bottom of the pit, fill it with a 10 cm layer of a mixture of rubble and sand.
We assemble the formwork, check the height of the edges. We lay welded mesh or steel reinforcement, attach the anchors to the frame.
We prepare concrete (a mixture of cement and sand 1: 3 with the addition of crushed stone and water). Fill in the resulting solution and give it time to harden.

We lay two layers of roofing material directly on the surface of the foundation. They will provide protection timber frame from moisture. We process wooden blanks with an antiseptic.

Screw the supporting bars of the frame to the anchors, then make samples in the bars on which the glass will be attached.

We fasten racks and beams.

Make sure the structure is upright. Install braces and fix all elements with metal corners.

Connect all the remaining elements together. Check everything first for cracks and gaps, then make sure the structure is stable... When it becomes clear that the greenhouse stores heat, bring all the plants into it.

Color mosaic

For decorating surfaces, a special mosaic is suitable - smalt. But in its absence, colored broken glass can be used. By the way, smalt is also made of broken glass, you can read about it in detail.

To do this kind of work, you need to prepare:

drawing, a base made of glass for a mosaic (or plexiglass);
glass cutter, wire cutters and a special breaker for working with glass;
colored glass from which the mosaic will be made;
a medical syringe, which is useful for applying the material;
transparent silicone;
tile grout (black).

Consider making a butterfly mosaic.

So, the finished drawing needs to be transferred from paper to a glass base. Using the tools, we cut out the wings from colored glass. Then we cut it out with a glass cutter.

After they are separated from the base, you need put them on the prepared drawing.

Pieces of glass must be covered with silicone, then glue them onto the glass base. For this you need a medical syringe.

When gluing the pieces, leave gaps between them. Later they will need to be filled with grout.

You need to grind the seams only after the silicone has grown.

Be sure to wear rubber gloves. The grout itself we breed according to the instructions located on the bag with the substance. The result is a mixture as thick as sour cream.

We put it on the mosaic.

As you can see, it covered the entire surface of the product, and the seams are reliably sealed. It remains only to remove the excess mixture from the glass. Do it you can use a wet sponge.

The procedure for creating any other mosaic is similar, the specifics of the work will vary slightly depending on the drawing.

Here is an example of another product made with the same technology:

As you can see, the mosaic is a versatile technique, with which you can decorate completely different interior items using broken glass.

The main thing is to apply the contours in advance so that the resulting drawing looks organic.

Herbarium and flower in glass

This is a very unusual, rare and beautiful fake. This technique allows you to "perpetuate" any flower (or other object) in glass by making a decoration from it (for example, a pendant).

Naturally, in order for the sheets to be seen, you need to use only transparent glass (intended for fusing or ordinary).

Of the tools, you may only need a special oven, glass cutter and a machine for turning the edges of glass.

Need to cut and grind two circles of equal diameter, in the dimensions of which the flower will fit. Plus, you need to leave a little space if you want to make a pendant (a hole for the lace will be made in a small area).

By the way, this is a difficult operation, the final result is predictable. Difficult to control the process: The grass may burn out completely, or a clear silhouette will remain.

To minimize possible damage, it is better to paint the flower in advance: even if the leaves burn out, the paint will retain the original shape of the flower and remain inside the glass.

You can approach the matter artistically by painting the flower with shade transitions.

You need to use exclusively fusing paints - they do not fade at high temperatures. After applying it, you need to let it dry.

We put the painted plant between the glass and put it in the oven.

Need to pick up correct baking mode... It is selected depending on the glass used. The approximate range is 740-800 degrees.

Please note that between the glass air bubbles may form... If, after baking, there are few of them, and the dimensions are small, they can additionally decorate the product.

If the plant only partially burns out, it may turn out to be a little openwork, fibrous.

Photo frame

A more difficult operation will be decorating frames, panels and paintings.

Before making a frame with glass, you need to prepare:

a sheet of fiberboard of a suitable size (dimensions are selected based on the intended pattern);
broken glass (transparent and colored);
acrylic paints, gouache or ink;
glue.

A dense layer of acrylic paint is applied to the fiberboard sheet. Optional, can be coated with one or more shades... It is necessary to prepare the background. When everything is dry, the sheet must be inserted into the frame of the future product.

Then, for the future, a panel or picture, you need to apply the contours of the planned drawing using a stencil or by hand.

For this, ink or gouache was needed - in order to circle the marked lines twice and glue the fragments along them.

After pasting them in the background area, you need to let the product dry.

Mirror

The easiest way is to decorate mirrors with shards (colored or transparent). This can be done with vases, candlesticks, trays.

Since the essence of the decoration is to glue the pieces of glass, be sure to wear rubber gloves before starting work, they will protect your hands from cuts and allergies to the substances contained in the glue.

On the surface of the object you need pre-apply pattern markings, on which the fragments will be laid out. Only ceramic glue is suitable, the layers of which must be applied using a special tool - scrapers.

If clear glass has been used, it can be painted with acrylic paint designed for glass work.

After the debris layer dries a little, the holes between them can be repaired putty for tiles, or cement for mosaics. You need to act carefully, but the surplus will still remain. You can remove them using a damp cloth.

This is how the mirror frames look like, made in this style.

You can decorate in a similar way:

frames for photographs, mirrors, paintings;
flower pots;
boxes;
drawers;
countertops and other items.

accurately calculate the number of glasses (prepare paint to paint transparent fragments);
apply clear markings and indicate where and what layer will need to be laid.

Other items and decorations

The list of crafts is not limited to this. Here's how you can decorate your interior.

Painting of multi-colored cullet

All work can be done at home, having prepared in advance:

plywood;
finished drawing;
a bunch of colored pieces of broken glass.

Plywood is needed as a base frame, on which a drawing with glued glass will be held. The picture itself can be drawn in advance, or you can take a suitable template.

The pieces should be glued so that they fit snugly together. Better to use more resistant glue... Try to keep them along the lines, observing the predetermined color scheme of the picture.

Never touch the glass until the glue dries, otherwise there is a risk of moving the pieces from their original place.

In addition to pieces of glass, you can use other decorative elements:

beads;
seashells;
sequins;
buttons, etc.

Fusing drawing

You can make a multi-colored picture using both mosaic and fusing technique. It consists in baking pieces of glass that have been pre-folded into a certain pattern. The whole operation carried out in a muffle furnace at high temperatures (at least 800 ° C).

This technique first appeared in the 90s. in Germany, and it was based on another, more ancient way of processing glass - the technique of "hot enamel".

The main task is to correctly position the glass elements in advance so that as a result of heat treatment, they combined into one whole... Consequently, the material becomes homogeneous, metal connections in such a product are absent.

The image depends entirely on the artist: you can make it more voluminous, convex, leave some areas flat, increase the thickness and relief of the stained-glass window.

All scattered parts are laid out on a glass base - the most even and flat surface. Thanks to this, the illusion of perspective, volume, and depth of the product is created.

The use of colored pieces allows you to expand the color gamut. This is why a glass base is needed, since working on a metal plate, such an effect cannot be achieved.

Such a product is also quite durable. It practically does not age, the color remains unchanged.

The only drawback in the heat treatment itself is such a technique will not allow you to get clear outlines of the image... Colored pieces inevitably float over each other and the effect is similar to watercolors.

Using liquid glass

Advanced craftsmen can create crafts using.

You can buy such material at a hardware store or hardware store... Or use other types of liquid glass, for example, silicate clerical glue, which is often used to imitate the sea.

But such a substitute will be less durable and harder than liquid glass.

Almost any item can be decorated with this material.

After applying a layer of liquid glass, apply decoration on it - pebbles, shells, beads, sparkles, etc.

If you want to do decorative elements more voluminous, apply two layers of liquid glass.

With liquid glass quite easy to work with... They can both decorate the surfaces of various objects and make their own decorations:

hairpins;
earrings;
brooches;
figurines;
vases, etc.

You can decorate the interior with liquid glass in a simple way- apply small objects to the glass layer according to a previously thought out drawing, then let the product cool down.

Decor elements

What can you do if you only have fine broken glass at hand? It can be powder and use as decor.

To crush it into powder safety precautions must be observed:

use gloves, safety glasses;
find a sufficiently deep and strong container.

The resulting powder from broken glass is applied to the selected object in the areas where the glue was previously applied. Once the glue is dry you can cover it with another layer... By analogy, powder can be used to paint pictures, decorate interior items.

In addition to glass, you can additionally decorate items with the following materials:

shells (sea or river) and shells;
beads or beads of a suitable size;
shells of walnuts and other materials at hand.

The task is to choose the right combination of all decorative materials, then the product will look beautiful and organic.

Making black, white and colored glass paint at home

How can you make glass colored, white or apply a drawing on it at home?

Glass surfaces must be treated with special paints that have good adhesion to smooth surfaces... Conventional paints and varnishes are not capable of this, so the coating wears off quickly.

The composition of the paint should not be too liquid, but it should be applied in thin and translucent layers.

Best suited for liquid glass acrylic paints... They have good adhesion and look like a matte film on planes. Even when mixed, they retain their color purity and are UV resistant.

The surface can be painted with polyurethane mixtures. It is an elastic substance that instantly solidifies on glass. The layers are perfectly transparent.

The compositions can be made independently.

Here are a couple of recipes:

White paint is prepared by mixing four parts of silicate glue and one part of kaolin (it must be thoroughly grinded).
Black shades are created by mixing one part of charcoal with three parts of silicate glue and one part of printing ink. The resulting mixture must be filtered.

Various color dyes can be made using special fabric dyes.

The procedure is as follows: dissolve 5 g of gelatin in 200 ml of water, after which we dilute the necessary dyes in a separate bowl. The required shade is obtained by gradually mixing the contents of the two prepared solutions.

Prepare the following tools in advance to paint the glass with paint:

spray;
end brushes with bristles;
paint roller or foam swab.

You need to pre-process the glass:

Wipe the glass soapy water, then rinse first with warm and then cold water.
Apply acetone to degrease the glass. Solvent traces are removed with a simple dry cloth.
Places that do not need to be painted should be protected. Apply one to two coats of masking tape to these areas.

Instructions for staining glass at home:

Prepare the mixture and pour it into a small bowl (this will make it easier to paint the surface).
Paint the glass using a brush, spray gun, foam pad, or roller. Follow, so that the layers are evenly distributed over the entire surface.
When the paint is dry, remove the pieces of masking tape. If some areas are lightly colored, apply an additional layer.

How do I make it opaque?

To achieve a matte glass texture, you can:

chemical and mechanical methods;
using a sandblaster.

Follow the instructions below and you will learn how to make the glass opaque.

It is easier and safer to use a mechanistic method based on the use of abrasive paste or sand.

You need to take polished glass with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm, put it on flat surface, placing a thick cloth under it.

Thin spats need to be nailed on the sides of the glass so that it does not slide on the table.

Prepare sand (best of all - river or corundum: it scratches glass more smoothly), then sift it through a sieve until smooth.

Then apply sand on a 20 x 30 cm board and moisten it with water. Put glass on top of the board, and on top of the glass - any weight so that it tightly presses it to the surface.

Move the board parallel to the side edges of the glass. Do not under any circumstances make circular movements.

Moisten the sand as it dries.

Periodically check whether the matting process is successful by scrubbing the sand off the surface and pulling the glass out into the light. Continue the procedure until you get the expected result.

Create a mirror surface

How to make a mirror? First you need to grind our glass by wetting its surface with water.

It will be required in advance prepare the following items:

glass;
containers in which the solution will be prepared and mixed with silver;
latex gloves;
silver (nitric acid) and tin (dichloride);
distilled water, caustic potassium or sodium hydroxide;
honey, ammonia and formalin;
alcohol, cotton wool;
colorless varnish;
glass rod and nitric acid;
a spray gun, which will apply the mixture to the glass, plus a brush with soft bristles;
frame or wooden sheet with clips;
dye.

We put on rubber gloves and carry out all work exclusively in them.

Further, when manipulating the glass, hold it gently by the ribs, otherwise you risk stain a smooth surface... This is important because the material will often need to be dragged from place to place, rinsed and various substances applied to it.

The procedure is as follows:

We wash the glass with distilled water and crushed chalk. All sides must be clean, incl. ends.
We treat the surface with a degreasing solution of alkali (sodium or potassium, with a content of about 10%).
We wash the glass again with distilled water.
Wipe clean glass with a cotton swab dipped in 1% stannous chloride solution. Then immediately place the mirror in a container filled with distilled water. Let it get wet.
While the glass is flooded, clean and degrease (with the same alkaline solution) the container in which you plan to silver the glass. Please note that the surface temperature of the future mirror in water should be 10 degrees higher than that of the solution aimed for silvering.

Would need prepare two solutions with the content that will cover the glass. When doing this, use only distilled water:

The first solution consists of silver nitrate (1.6 g) and water (30 ml). After mixing them, watch out what kind of sediment you get. Drop 25% ammonia into it until it disappears, then add another half glass of water.
Pour 40% formalin solution (5 g) into the second container with divisions.

Place the glass in a horizontal position on the surface prepared for silvering.
Now start covering the glass: pour the resulting solution into the middle, roll it out in an even layer using a glass rod. Alternatively, dip the glass into the chemical mixture so that the silver does not fall on the opposite side.
The solution needs to harden. For "mirroring" he needs 3-10 minutes, depending on the initial temperature of the mixture.
When everything is dry, you need to put the mirror upright. Until the silver layer has set, it can be damaged, so lean the piece against the support with the untreated side.
The mirror needs to dry for 2 hours at temperatures up to 100 degrees.
Inspect the product received. Silver streaks can be wiped off with cotton wool and nitric acid solution.
Rinse the mirror first in water and then alcohol.
The silver layer should cool down by this time. Spray it with clear varnish from a spray bottle.
When the varnish is dry, paint the darkened surface. Then paint the silver-plated part with red lead, diluting it in turpentine. The glass part must be wiped with a nitric acid solution.
Let everything dry and see the result. If everything suits you, all that remains is to put the mirror in a frame with clips.

How to make a hole?

A hole in the glass can be drilled with:

drills with flexible shaft;
dental burs.

The structure itself amenable to mechanical processing, but the fragility of the glass must be taken into account. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the force and points of influence, as well as the order of work.

Processing should not lead to cracks, breaks and chips on the main surface, otherwise the entire product may break.

Before making a hole, you need to prepare the glass for processing. The work surface must be cleaned and leveled. Watch out for the presence of defective areas - under mechanical stress, they can chip and spoil the workpiece.

First, make a markup: mark the lines of future holes in such a way that the surface flaws are located inside the circle and do not go beyond it. Additionally the surface can be treated with chemicals, saving it from oil traces.

Determine where the work will be done. You need to prepare the fixing rig.

The very method of fixing the glass is determined based on the chosen technology for creating a hole.

Usually, the workpiece is set in a vice, and under the areas that will be affected, they are placed damping soft materials.

What if you need to make a small hole?

Miniature holes can be drilled with a drill and drill. The drill is required beforehand:

glow;
immerse in sealing wax and hold until the substance begins to melt;
moisten the tip in turpentine.

After that, you can start working.

The second option is as follows:

Grind the camphor and coarse sandpaper particles.
Pour the resulting elements into a small container, and then dilute them with turpentine. Place this paste on a clean glass surface of the workpiece.
Prepare a small piece of copper wire. It will need to be clamped in the drill chuck. This rig needs to be guided, so prepare a guide jig (plywood).
The procurement is complete. You can start drilling.

Large holes in the glass are made in a different way. If needed diameter exceeds 10 cm, household equipment will not help here.

You can still drill, but you must first make a small through point in the center of the future hole.

Any small-format glass of small diameter (up to 1 cm) can cope with this. Third-party chips will appear, but this is not scary: they form in areas that will later be removed.

Having received a small through opening, you need to insert and secure a piece of wire into it.

One end is fastened with a glass cutter. After checking if the elements are securely fixed and whether the tool runs smoothly in a circle, you can cut a circle.

If the hole cannot be drilled, you can melt it. You will need to prepare a rig in which liquid tin or lead will be prepared. The glass blank is processed with gasoline, acetone or alcohol.

Having made the markings and forming the zone of the future hole, the resulting area is sprinkled with moistened sand.

It should be enough to create a funnel, the bottom of which will be comparable in size to the edges of the hole, then metal is poured into it.

After 1-2 minutes, it will cool down, and the sanding equipment can be removed along with the form.

As a result, in a glass blank a hole with smooth edges is formed... The risk is only in the reflow process itself: it is impossible to control the diameter that forms after the interaction of glass and metal.

The last option is to cut a hole with a soldering iron. You need to start by creating risks with a file.

Carefully mark the zones in which the melt will be produced with the soldering iron in depth.

Then you need to warm up the sting and start cutting. Act slowly and carefully.

It is better melt small pieces periodically cooling the glass (this will reduce the risk of deformation in nearby areas).

The result will be exactly the opposite of the above method:

the boundaries of the intended hole diameter will be maintained;
the edges will turn out to be uneven.

conclusions

As you can see, unnecessary or broken glass will do for decorating a room with handmade items. The main thing is desire and fantasy.

You can also decorate other glass containers.

If you do not want to work on crafts, do not throw away the glass anyway. Take it to or in a special container for collecting glass.

In contact with

Hello everyone! In one of my previous works, I showed how it was done, it turned out pretty well, something like a resting corner, but something was missing. And what was missing was just a street table. Just after replacing one of the windows, I still have an unnecessary double-glazed window, its dimensions are 1m * 0.9m, almost an even square. There are no difficulties in manufacturing, it can be done in literally a few hours, unless of course you count the time until the paint dries. Tools required for manufacturing: - grinder;
- welding machine;
- corner;
- roulette;
- rubber compressor;
- drill with a diamond attachment;
- dye. Table materials:

- glass unit 1m * 0.9m;
- corner 25, 4 pieces by the size of the glass unit;
- pipe 30, 4 pieces of 70 cm;
- pieces of reinforcement for spacers 8pcs by 17cm.

Table making

First of all, we cut off the entire protruding elastic band from the glass unit, so that it does not interfere in the future when we install the glass into the frame from the corner. It is cut very easily with a regular knife.

Next, it is necessary to weld a frame from the corner, which is clearly suitable for the size of the glass unit. Weld seams must be made from the outside and then cleaned out with a bolt. I also rounded the corners of the frame a little more.

The next step is to weld the table legs. I cut them out of a tube of 30 x 70 cm each, but you can make whatever sizes you want. The most important thing is to weld them evenly, and a square with a right angle helps a lot in this.

The first stability test of the table showed that it is quite possible to leave it that way, but still, for greater rigidity, you can install small spacers from pieces of reinforcement. The main thing is that the cat likes everything)))

I welded pieces of reinforcement, one on each side of the legs.

That's all, the frame is completely ready and now it only remains to clean it well and paint it. A little tip: if you do the same, clean the blanks before weld everything together, it will be much easier.

Then I laid a rubber tape along the bottom of the corner, it will serve as a seal between the metal and glass. I can't say what kind of tape it is, because I don't know, it looks like a bandage, only thinner.

The edges of the glass are very sharp and in order to avoid injury, they need to be cleaned and rounded with a drill and diamond grinding attachment. Everything is done very easily and quickly.

Important! use a respirator and safety goggles, as a lot of glass fine dust flies.

After the installation of new structures, it is recommended not to rush to throw away the old plastic windows, since in some cases they can last a long time. Since products made of PVC profiles have been actively installed and operated for only about 15 years, their resource has not yet been exhausted. After all, even double-glazed windows can last 20 years, and the construction of window sashes - twice as long. In addition, today quite often completely new windows are changed in new buildings, which are extremely irrational to write off for scrap. All of these products can always be used, and this applies to people with different income levels.

Where can you use used plastic windows

The area of application of old windows is quite large. There are not so many conditions for reusing them - the product needs to be intact, and the dimensions of the frames and openings in the new place coincide. Today, second-hand plastic windows are actively used at such objects as:

country cottages;
workshops and small production halls;
change houses and gatehouses.

Also, old plastic windows may be suitable for installation in another apartment, since the dimensions of the openings in many typical multi-storey buildings may be the same. However, in this case, it is recommended to first consult with a specialist who will carry out in those rooms where the installation of used structures is planned.

In what cases it is impossible to reuse old plastic windows

If the profile structures are damaged, the windows cannot be reused. This applies to all constituent elements, including imposts and sashes. Violation of the integrity of the profile most often provokes depressurization, and can also lead to deformations. Non-critical breakdowns include the following malfunctions:

violation of the integrity of the clamping glazing beads - they can be replaced at any time;
unbalanced fittings - eliminated by adjusting, cleaning, lubricating and replacing failed elements;
problems with the sealant - solved by installing new circuits.

In addition, used PVC window profiles cannot be used in the event of a significant mismatch in the dimensions of the frames and the dimensions of the openings.

What to do if there is a slight difference in the dimensions of the openings and frames

Ideally, when the dimensions coincide completely, but this either requires a lot of luck, or it is necessary to erect the walls taking into account the dimensions of the window structures. Such situations are rare. More often you have to deal with non-critical size mismatch. If the opening is slightly smaller, you can try to widen it. This works best when the walls are built of foam blocks or bricks. The situation is more complicated with reinforced concrete structures, but in this case the problem can be solved with a good tool.

If the opening is slightly larger than the windows, then it is recommended to try to build up the frame with. These elements are also called expanders, as they increase the size of the sash. Thanks to them, it is possible not to lay the opening to the required width and height, which is far from always feasible. The extenders create the visual effect of a one-piece wide frame and have excellent thermal insulation.

The additional elements coincide with the frame profile and ensure the strength of the joints at the joints - thanks to special hooks, a lock is formed, which is reliable and tight. Also, these elements will make it possible to compensate for the thickness of the insulation boards, which are recommended to be used for finishing the slopes. Today, there are a lot of expanders with different dimensions on sale, so you can easily adapt the dimensions.

If a decision is made to expand the opening, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the external walls are load-bearing, therefore, violation of their integrity can lead to serious troubles. Always consult with experienced builders before doing such work.

Dismantling with preservation

Old windows are suitable for reuse if dismantled and preserved. On OknaTrade, it is described for old joinery. The procedure for dismantling while preserving structures made of PVC profiles has a lot in common with the basic technology. When removing plastic windows from the opening, it is recommended:

first remove all active leaves;
take out double-glazed windows;
find the locations of the fasteners.

The fixing anchors are usually unscrewed after removing the assembly seam, which also holds the entire structure. To get to it, it is necessary to dismantle the window sills with ebb tides and remove the slopes.

Greenhouses from old plastic windows

Some gardeners find original use for products from profile systems - they use them to build greenhouses on their summer cottages... It should be understood that the area of such a structure will be small. A compact greenhouse from windows is usually erected in the form of a small extension with south side country house... It is recommended to use a special connecting profile for reliable tight joining of individual frames. Front door one of the active doors serves as such an original structure. In order for the plants to feel comfortable in such a greenhouse, it is necessary to equip the structure with micro-ventilation valves.

Gazebo from window frames on the picture

This version of the gazebo-kitchen with an eight-pitched roof has frame structure and an octagonal plan. The openings between the pillars of this building are planned to be closed with glazed window frames (from mosquitoes, wind, rain, etc.).

Since it is now universally accepted to replace old windows with plastic ones, such window frames can be found at waste bins in any area of any city, which means that they will cost nothing and for construction you will need to spend only on materials for the foundation, frame and roof.

The octagonal gazebo is a traditional Swedish house, only in this case, most of the walls will be made in the form of windows.

The construction of the gazebo-kitchen takes place in stages and in a specific order.

STEP # 1
STEP # 2

STEP # 3
STEP # 4

STEP # 5
STEP # 6

STEP # 7
STEP # 8

An octagonal gazebo made of glazed window frames can be placed closer to the center of the site, then from all the windows of the building it will be possible to admire the landscape and observe what is happening around. This will be a kind of command post. At the same time, being outside, it will be possible to follow what is happening inside the gazebo, for example, whether something on the stove has caught fire.

On a note!

Inside, such a gazebo can be arranged according to your taste and discretion. A kitchen block will fit freely here - gas or electric stove, homemade cupboards for dishes and kitchen utensils, a refrigerator and, of course, a sink. In the other part, closer to the center, you can put a large dinner table with a bench, chairs or armchairs. If desired, you can install a TV, a stereo system, hang a hammock here. And the brazier can be used with ordinary metal, setting it next to the gazebo.

The foundation for the gazebo from window frames with your own hands must be made from eight single concrete blocks, which are laid on the ground at the corners of the gazebo. Under each block, you need to dig a hole for the bayonet of a shovel, the width and length of which is about three times the size of the block. Then sand should be poured on the bottom of the pits and thoroughly tamped to form a layer 5-10 cm thick. Concrete blocks placed in prepared pits and leveled.

Erection of walls - using a frame for a gazebo with your own hands imposes a restriction on the width and height of the structure.

On top of the foundation blocks, you need to lay waterproofing from a double-folded roofing material, and then a lower strapping is made from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The corner joints of the beams can be assembled by cutting in half a tree, placing them exactly above the foundation blocks. The crossbars should be cut into the longitudinal beams of the harness, also in half a tree. The bar joints can be reinforced with 120 mm nails by driving two nails into each joint.

Further, in the corners of the assembled harness, you need to install racks from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The distance between adjacent pairs of uprights should be determined by the width of the window frames and the door (or doors). Each rack must be set strictly vertically along a plumb line, fixed with temporary struts, and then attached at the bottom to the harness made of beams with two nails, hammering them on both sides perpendicular to one another.

Then, at a height of about 50 cm from the strapping beams, you need to strictly vertically, without distortions, cut window boards between the racks, after which you can remove the temporary struts and replace them with permanent ones. Then the height of all eight racks should be adjusted, and if everything is correct, you can mount on them the upper harness from the same bar with a section of 100 X 150 mm, which should exactly repeat the dimensions of the lower one. It should be attached to the uprights with nails 200 mm long.

Look at the gazebos made of frames in the photo, which shows the finished structures:

Gazebo from old frames
Arbor from frames

Gazebo for giving
Do it yourself

For the roof, you must first install the truss. To do this, you need to temporarily tie the beams of the upper harness located opposite each other in a criss-cross with two pairs of tie boards. This structure will simultaneously serve as both a rail supporting the B-pillar in an upright position and a construction bridge for "high-rise" work. Also, for the convenience of further work in the center of the gazebo, you need to install a temporary auxiliary vertical stand. At the bottom of the floor, it can be knocked out with wedges, and at the top, an octagonal lock insert can be attached to it. In order for the auxiliary stand to hold steadily in a strictly vertical position, you need to additionally nail it with two nails to the screed boards nailed to the beams of the upper harness.

They will go to the rafters edged boards section 50 x 100 mm. The upper end of each rafter should rest on the central octahedral insert, and the lower end on the upper strapping bar, on which you need to select the grooves in advance, corresponding to the thickness and angle of inclination of the rafter. The rafters should be installed in pairs on two opposite sides, nailing them to the liner and timber. To prevent the nails from "leaving" to the side during hammering, pilot holes must first be drilled in the rafters. It is recommended to slightly hang up the sides of the upper ends of the rafters so that they fit better.

Next, a solid lathing of the roof is made from a lining board, which must be laid with the front (planed) side down. When laying, the ends of each floorboard must be nailed to the rafters with two nails to ensure the rigidity of the roof structure and to exclude the appearance of a bursting force on the belt of the upper trim and the wall. In this case, the roof will rest on the walls of the building like a rigid "cone".

The roof of the gazebo is made of galvanized sheet steel. Pre-painted metal sheets must be marked, cut out from them blanks of the required shape and size and alternately fastened to the crate using roofing screws with rubber washers. To protect the gazebo from possible leaks, the joints of the roofing sheets from above must be closed with corners cut and curved from the same sheet metal.