Make a roof. How to make a roof of a house correctly: construction device and construction technology. Do-it-yourself shed roof

Arranging a roof with your own hands is a difficult task, but quite feasible for those who have at least a little experience in construction. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is necessary to carefully prepare, study the technology of installing the roof, the sequence of operations and methods of fastening individual structural elements. How to build the roof of a house with your own hands, and will be discussed in this article.

Roof types

The most common types of roofs include the following:

Single slope;
Gable;
Hip hip;
Broken line;
Combined.

Each design has a number of features, so it is worth considering them in a little more detail:

Shed roof ... A roof with a single slope differs primarily in cost - a minimum set of materials is required for installation. In addition, the installation process will be quite simple and quick. True, the payment for these advantages in the end turns out to be quite significant: firstly, the design is not very attractive visually, and secondly, there will be too little free space under the roof for arranging an attic or attic.
Gable roof ... This roof design option is most popular due to the ease of installation and the ability to equip a full-fledged room in the under-roof space. A roof with two slopes is slightly more complicated and more expensive than a single-slope version, but simpler and cheaper in comparison with a four-slope structure. A key feature of gable roofs is the presence of triangular gables, which are located at the ends of the building. How to make a triangular roof is worth reading in more detail in the corresponding article.
Hipped roof... Installation of such a roof will require thorough preparation and serious costs. The hipped roof structure includes many elements, so there will be a lot of work. The attic of this design cannot be equipped with windows due to the missing gables - but the dormer and dormer windows are required without fail, because at their expense the room will be illuminated and evacuated if necessary.
Roof with broken slopes... As a rule, this type of roof is mounted if there is a desire to make a full-fledged attic. The design of the roof in this case involves the installation of its lower part with a large slope compared to the upper section, due to which the ceiling of the room rises and the usable area increases.
Combination roof... As the name suggests, a combination roof can include features of several or all of the structures. This type of roof has not gained much popularity, but in some situations only a combination of various design features can achieve the desired result.

The selection of the type of roof is always individual, so you need to build on your own wishes and capabilities.

Calculation of the roof of the house

Before making the roof of the house, it is necessary to perform calculations of all structural elements, to design the roof of the house. The best option there will be a full-fledged calculation of each indicator, but in practice this is rarely required.

It will be easiest to take the standard cross-sectional values of the roof elements, especially when it comes to a typical building:

Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
Racks - 100x150 or 150x150 mm (the exact value depends on the section of the rafters);
Braces - 100x150 or 50x150 (determined individually, depending on how convenient it will be to connect the braces with the rafters);
Tightening - 50x150 mm;
Runs - 200x200 mm;
Overlays - from 32 to 50 mm.

The exact calculation of the height and section is carried out exclusively for the rafter legs, taking into account the following parameters:

The material used for the roof;
The level of atmospheric precipitation in the region (usually the values obtained in winter are taken for the calculation);
Rafters step;
Span.

In principle, calculating the roof of a house with your own hands can be performed not very accurately, up to approximate values - but in this case, you need to add at least a small margin of safety to the results. To completely simplify the calculation process, you can use an online calculator or special tables of standard values.

If we make the roof of a house with our own hands, then often we also have to install insulation material. In this case, the height of the rafter legs will depend on the thickness of the insulation. The installation of the thermal insulation layer must be carried out in such a way that the material is located below the load-bearing beams. Using mineral wool as a heater, it is worth considering that it requires a small gap through which ventilation of the structure will be carried out. This gap can simply be left if the rafters are high enough, or you can mount a counter-lattice.

How to build a roof with your own hands

The general instructions for building a roof with your own hands looks like this:

Before building a roof, you need to take measurements of the building;
Next comes the preparation of all materials (including impregnation wooden elements antiseptics and fire retardants) and tools;
Work begins with the installation of the Mauerlat;
Next, a ridge girder is installed (if necessary);
Then the frame is attached;
The structure is fixed and reinforced with uprights, struts and braces;
A waterproofing layer and a crate are attached to the assembled frame;
Further, the necessary work is carried out to ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space;
Then droppers are installed;
The last step is the installation of the material chosen for the roof covering.

Mauerlat installation

Before building the roof of the house, it is necessary to create a structure designed to ensure reliable fastening of the roof to the building - and this is the Mauerlat on which the assembled frame is installed. True, when installing a roof on a wooden house, a Mauerlat is not needed - its role will be played by the upper crown of the building. The roof will be attached to the walls with dowels.

The roof is installed in a similar way. frame house- this time the upper harness will act as a Mauerlat. The connection of the elements of the building and the roof is carried out by means of a cut with the use of metal corners, in which there are holes for self-tapping screws.

A completely different matter is installing a roof on a brick or concrete house... In this case, the Mauerlat can be installed in several ways, and the choice of a specific method directly depends on the result of the calculations and the experience of the master.

Mauerlat is installed in one of four ways:

Wire mounting... To implement such an attachment, you need to lay the wire in the masonry at a distance of four rows to the edge of the structure. The Mauerlat will subsequently be bolted to the walls with this wire. This option is the least reliable, but anyone can do it.
Mounting with staples... This method involves laying wooden blocks in the masonry in four rows from the edge. One part of the bracket is attached directly to the Mauerlat, and the other to the pre-fixed bar. This method also does not differ in complexity, but it is highly undesirable to use it in buildings with a heavy load on the roof.
Installation with studs... Studs with a diameter of about 10-12 mm are mounted in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily laid on top of them and tapped with a hammer, after which small indentations remain on it in those places where the timber should be fixed. These points are drilled through, after which the Mauerlat can be installed on the mounts and tightened the nuts.
Installation with anchor bolts... This method is characterized by maximum complexity and reliability. Anchor bolts are embedded in the concrete along the entire perimeter of the wall. The resulting fastening not only provides high-quality fixation of the roof, but also increases the edge strength of the wall made of lightweight concrete.

Instructions for the construction of rafters

The load-bearing elements of the roof must be securely attached to the strapping, for which several methods are used. If the roof is being arranged wooden house do it yourself, the rafters can be exclusively layered.

It's all about two mutually exclusive rules:

Rafters wooden houses can be fixed exclusively by hinge;
Hanging rafters can only be fixed in a rigid manner.

That is why, when arranging buildings made of wood, only a layered rafter system installed on hinges can be used. To install such a roof, you will have to purchase special elements (usually called sleds), which will ensure self-alignment of the roof when the house shrinks.

DIY roof one-storey house, the walls of which are made of brick or stone, can be equipped according to any scheme, but the greatest efficiency is achieved with rigid fixation of the rafter legs. The installation of the frame system can be carried out with or without a cut-out.

To create a roof with a cut, you must first cut the rafters so that it fits snugly against the Mauerlat. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out the cornice by means of fillies, which are attached to the rafter legs with at least a meter overlap. Fixation of structural elements can be performed using any fasteners, but the best option there will be metal corners fixed with self-tapping screws.

If the roof is installed without a cut, then filly will not be required - the required frame overhang will be performed at the expense of the beams themselves. This option is somewhat easier to arrange, since it does not require an exact fit of all elements. In order for the rafters to adhere well to the Mauerlat, stops or separate boards are used. It is better to fix the elements in the same way as in the previous case.

Fastening and strengthening the frame

The assembled frame must be attached to the building box so that the entire structure is not blown away by the gusty wind. For fixing, 4-mm wire is quite suitable, pieces of which are wrapped near the rafter leg at the point of its support. The free ends of the wire are attached to the anchors installed in advance in the wall. In case of wooden houses it is quite possible to use brackets - they will be quite enough to securely hold the roof in place.

To increase the strength of the frame, you need to reduce the span of the rafters using struts and struts. The braces are usually installed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees from the horizontal. The walls underneath or special elements located in the space between the walls are used as supports for the racks.

Also, the structure can be strengthened by tightening, which reduces the bursting load. This is especially true when using a hanging rafter system. To assemble the frame, two puffs are usually used, mounted with self-tapping screws on both sides relative to the rafter legs.

Lathing, waterproofing and ventilation

First of all, it is necessary to install the selected waterproofing material on the assembled frame, and after that you can fasten the crate itself. Its design and the dimensions of the elements used are selected individually. Before making the roof a house with your own hands, you should read a separate article on how to properly mount the crate.

It is also worth taking care of ventilation, which requires:

Provide air passage under the roof through the eaves;
Free air movement under the roof;
Unobstructed air outlet through the ridge part of the roof.

Installation of roofing and roof insulation

One of the final steps in roof assembly is the installation of the roof covering. It is worth reading the article on the relevant topic about the choice of a suitable material and the algorithm for its installation. The last stage is the installation of the thermal insulation layer. As insulation for the roof, it is most often used mineral wool... The selection of the thickness of the mineral wool should be carried out based on the climatic conditions in the region where the construction is taking place.

Conclusion

Installing the roof after a detailed study no longer looks so overwhelming. Before making a pitched roof, you need to prepare well, stock up on everything you need and plan the work. If you follow a clear algorithm and perform all work with maximum diligence, the result will be a high-quality and reliable structure that can stand for more than a dozen years and reliably protect the building from any external influences.

The correct roof of the house implies not only a beautiful appearance, but also reliable design

Roofing of private houses is a difficult and very demanding job. The easiest option is to order turnkey construction from a specialized company and expect a happy moment when you can move into a brand new house or cottage. But this method is good if there are enough funds to pay for the expensive services of construction workers. Better to build a house yourself, it will cost about half the price. This will require a quality project.. A correctly designed project with calculations requires knowledge and design experience. Therefore, it is better to use either finished project, or order it from a specialized organization. Below we will focus on the technology of roof construction. Installation and repair of the roof directly depends on its type and design. Therefore, first we will tell you what kind of roofs there are.

Roof types

The specifics and features of the roof largely depend on its type. Currently, there are many typical projects of private houses, with original and sometimes very spectacular roofs. Consider several common varieties that differ in their design:

Shed. The simplest version looks like a right-angled triangle in cross-section.
Gable. Sometimes called gable, a roof structure with two sloped planes. The attic room is perfectly built in here.
Broken line. A variation of the previous type, which has slopes with a break (changed angle). A large number of modern houses can be seen with a sloping roof.
Hip (half-hip). Four-slope design, allowing you to raise the ceiling and conveniently place the attic under it.
Conical or domed. Generally better suited for buildings with a polygonal or circular shape.
Multi-pliers. A non-standard design, as well as an option with a sloping roof, requires a painstaking calculation. Only an experienced architect is able to make a good project, and the cost of the work is very high.

Various types of roofs for country houses and cottages

The rafter system forms the roof frame, which is the skeleton that ensures the reliability and strength of the entire structure of the house. The frame determines the type and shape of the roof of the building, its task is not only to maintain the roof covering, but also to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the house. Right choice rafter systems, its competent construction will ensure the reliability of the structure, its durability and strength.

The rafter system is constructed, as a rule, of coniferous wood, well dried to a moisture content of 18-23%. A good and durable roof can only be made from quality material.

When calculating loads, it should be borne in mind that two types of forces act on the frame: constant and variable:

Constants include the weight of the entire frame structure together with the drainage system, insulation and roofing.
Variables include the weight of people inside, snow cover and wind pressure.

Important!
The calculation of temporary loads is carried out based on building codes for the climatic regions of Russia.

We will consider the components and elements of the frame using the example of the most common design with 4 slopes:

Mauerlat, a timber laid along the top of the walls of the house. Serves as a support for rafters and evenly distributes the load on the building structure.
The rafter has a different name for the rafter leg. An angled beam or board, with the lower part supported by the Mauerlat and the upper part by the girders. Defines the slope of the ramps, serves as a reference element to support the covering.
Run. A horizontal beam to support the upper ends of the rafters. It can serve as a ridge bar. Fastened to vertical uprights. It is better to make it from a bar or thick board.
Racks are vertical. They are a support for purlins, located on load-bearing walls or on planks.
Beds. Beams laid horizontally on the walls of the house, playing the role of floor beams. Serve as a support for the racks, carry the vertical load of the weight of the roof.
Puffs. Boards securing the rafters of opposite slopes, create rigidity of the structure, fix the rafters.
Braces. Boards that perform a supporting function and protect the rafters from bending.
Wind beams. Boards fastening the rafters on one slope, fixed diagonally from the ridge to the Mauerlat. They perform the task of strengthening the frame and protecting it from wind loads.
Filly. A board fixed to the Mauerlat, which forms an overhang.
Sprengel. A bar fixed at the corners of the house between the connecting Mauerlats of adjacent walls.

Gable roof rafter system

The listed parts of the frame take place in almost all types of rafter systems, of which there are several types.

The rafter system is the basis of any roof, its skeleton. Its main purpose is to give the roof structure strength and reliability. In addition, the rafter system is designed to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the house. There are several types of rafter systems that allow you to make a reliable roof:

Hanging or hanging rafter system. With this design, there are no intermediate posts to support the rafters, and the connection is made with wooden or metal ties. In the upper part, the rafters abut against each other, and the loads are transferred due to puffs. In this system, various forces act on the rafters: compression, bending and a vertical component that bends the rafter down.
Nasal system. As a rule, it is used in gable roofs. It is used with the use of intermediate supports or in the construction of houses with a central load-bearing wall. The rafters are installed with one end supported on the walls and the other on intermediate posts. SNiP regulates the device of a similar design for gable roofs only in cases where the distance between the bearing walls is not more than 6.5 meters. The overhead system is lighter and easier to install.
Sloped roof rafter system. Complex construction requiring good project and careful calculations. For a broken structure, it is possible to raise the roof and make the attic higher, and minimize the unused area.

Truss options

A combination of the listed roofing systems is often used. It is important that the rafter scheme is calculated at the stage of building design. According to the results of calculations carried out according to a complex method, it is necessary to obtain data on the loads per 1 sq. M of the rafter system. SNiPom regulates the normative value of 50 kg per sq. M. Also, based on the results of calculations, you can choose one or another type of rafter system.

Trusses in truss systems

It is best to make a truss system from ready-made trusses, assembled at the factory. Calculated in accordance with all standards, made of high-quality and well-dried wood, the trusses greatly facilitate and speed up the construction process.

The whole structure, built using trusses, is much lighter and stronger. Trusses reduce wall loads by transferring only vertical forces. The lower chord of the trusses is designed so that it can serve as a ceiling beam for the attic. Ease of use of trusses lies in the ability to cover a large span without additional support.

A roof truss made of wood is the most common option.

Advice!
If the structure of your house is more than six meters or the roof is very flat according to the project (the slope of the slopes is less than 30˚), think about whether it is better to use ready-made wooden trusses.

The disadvantages of such a structure are that it costs a little more than building on its own, and there are also some difficulties in order to raise it to the desired height.

Roof design

As mentioned above, a well-designed project should be the key to a reliable and durable roof structure. As a rule, it consists of several sections and drawings. It contains calculations and all information about the roof structure:

first of all, the project determines the main parameters - the shape of the roof, its dimensions, the slope of the slopes, the presence of a pediment;
the second, and no less important point, is a list of all materials, for each node, with an indication of their quantity;
a separate section should be devoted to the calculation of load-bearing structures with an indication of the cross-section of the rafter beams, the dimensions of the floor elements and other nodes;
drawings in various projections with detailing of the main units;
a section with calculations of the thermal properties of the roof structure and instructions on insulation and waterproofing, with a list of recommended materials;
recommendations for roofing material based on the calculation of the maximum structural loads.

Roof design in accordance with SNiP

An important section of the project should be the section devoted to insulation, waterproofing and ventilation.

Important!
A properly equipped under-roof space will avoid the accumulation of condensed moisture and leaks.

Competent insulation will create comfortable conditions for staying inside the building. All taken together will increase the strength, durability and reliability of the roof and the entire building.

Roof project

Heat and waterproofing

An important detail for the roof insulation device is the fact that not only external weather factors, but also internal:

heat from the living quarters;
evaporation;
condensation from the temperature difference in the upper floor and outside.

Therefore, the requirements for roof insulation contain additional conditions in comparison with wall insulation. This is the laying of vapor barrier materials, a heat-protective layer and waterproofing. In addition, it is necessary to equip effective ventilation of the under-roof space, otherwise constant dampness in the room threatens.

Roof waterproofing is one of the mandatory stages of its arrangement

To reliably insulate the upper floor, mineral or eco-wool is usually used. In combination with a waterproofing and vapor barrier film, good protection against external and internal influences is obtained. And the air gap between the different insulators will ensure the ventilation of the gables and the roof.

Step-by-step instructions for ensuring moisture resistance and functionality of the roof

To keep the roof from blowing

An important nuance that must be taken into account during installation and reconstruction of the roof is its system of attachment to the house. A hurricane that happens once a century should not lift and carry our roof. For this, the frame is fastened to the walls. When choosing a mounting method, it should be provided that the rafter system does not expand the walls.

If the fastening is carried out in a stone house, then it is recommended to fasten the rafters with crutches driven from the inside of the wall. Fixation is made with a wire tie in several turns. In some cases, you can fasten the rafters to the floor joists. Such a fastening provides for a slight backlash in the joints of the rafters with the Mauerlat, which avoids the expansion of the walls.

In addition, do not forget to install wind boards (see above) during installation and repair. Such a bundle protects against wind load from the inside. The wind boards prevent vibrations in the structure, which eventually lead to destruction.

A roof with steep slopes can be overturned by strong gusts of wind;

The lathing is designed to hold the roof covering. It is done at the last stage of the construction of the frame (rafter system). If the floor beams are installed in the openings of the walls, then fillets should be fixed on the first rafters from the bottom, which will help to make the overhang of the roof. In cases where the ceiling is laid along the Mauerlat, there is no need for fillets, since the beams in such a structure protrude beyond the perimeter of the walls, thereby creating an overhang of the roof.

The type of battens is selected in accordance with the planned roofing material. The lathing is made either with small gaps, or solid, with the boards laid close to each other.

An important element roofing for the integrity and durability of the future roof is the crate - the foundation and the guarantee of your peace of mind with its correct and reliable fastening

Lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the lathing. Now you can sew up the gables and start installing the topcoat.

Roof repair: installation of lathing

Many suburbanite owners choose to build their own home. The final stage in the construction of the building is the erection of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce labor costs for employees and do the work yourself. Many do not know how to make a roof - in such cases, it is better to use the help of skilled workers.

Types of roofs being erected

First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare necessary tools and materials. Roofing construction is one of the important stages in the construction of a house.

To make a roof, you will need to choose its type correctly... The simplest DIY designs include straight-framed gable roofs.

Overlapping the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, is higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first one is not the most attractive: there is no way to equip an attic or an attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.

Very often, a gable roof of a private house is mounted. with my own hands... It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less difficulty and weight. Also in this case less material is required. The roof of a house is significantly different from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Before you can build your own four-beam roof, you have to do some serious preparation. This structure has more elements than previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows because the design is devoid of gables. Do-it-yourself roof installation in this case involves the installation of attic windows and roof windows... They are designed for lighting and evacuation.

An excellent option would be a combined design. He can combine signs of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof slopes more than the upper one. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.

Materials for work

The modern building industry offers a vast array of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand their variety, you need to take a closer look at the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:

The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. A prerequisite is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.

The construction of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.

In particular, you will need:

Construction methodology

Let's consider how to make the roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account the snow and wind load in the existing climatic conditions- how less angle, so better design withstands loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof is designed according to the design plan: the key pillars of the roof system must be aligned with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house, the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not going to be used as a living space, you can build a solid roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a walkway that supports the pillars supported by an inner support wall.

If it is decided that the gable roof will be installed with your own hands, you should carefully read step by step instructions... The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the topcoat.

Self-contained Mauerlat device

Before you build the roof of the house securely, you need to take care of fixing the Mauerlat - the wooden bandage of the house, which serves as the border of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.

Block it in the following ways:

The bay strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be between 1 and 1.5 meters.
Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house masonry.

Cutting and installing rafters

The rafters are the hardest part of the job. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. In the event of a skew, the entire roof will "walk", which is bad for the house.

Now you need to cut off the top edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected with cutting edges without voids and gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the Mauerlat and raise it to the desired angle. In the center, overlapping to the rafter floor, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line of the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All cut-out rafters are assembled securely at the top with brackets, ties and bolts.

Roof gable device

The pediment is a continuation of the wall bounded by the roof slopes. If there is a gable roof, then the pediments of the house are triangular. When installing the structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and make sure that they are of the same height. In the upper part of the gables, a mountain ridge is attached, on which the rest of the rafter structures are later mounted.

Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing work, but this can be done at an earlier stage. The mounting of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out vertically or horizontally. A do-it-yourself pediment is often fitted with windows. It is necessary to provide for the insulation of the gables.

Installation of the frame and roofing cake

Continuing the topic, it should be noted that the next step will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing cake... Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other pie materials - steam and waterproofing, as well as for other insulation and roofing materials.

The roof covering can be installed from 100x50 mm unedged boards. In this case, the pitch of the boards depends on the final roofing material... The heavier it is, the smaller the stride should be. Usually it is 30 cm.

Important: it is advisable to fold a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. Planks are already installed at the top of the barrier.

Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the plates or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is laid between them, neatly into the existing grooves.

From above, everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in this case, horizontal). And already on it the last roofing material is installed.

At the very end of the roof installation in the house, a drainage system must be installed. It is made of cut plastic pipes, they are bought in advance. Now it remains to sew up the roof with the selected material.

DIY roofing

The plank is stuffed onto the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its dimensions and rigidity, the installation method. If the use of flexible materials (tiles, rolled bitumen) is required, a flat frame must be made.

Roof shingles are laid in the following order:

The overlap must be strengthened on each wave.... Covering the roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.

When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible, otherwise the heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use of various materials... This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. Design gable roof it is recommended to perform it in stages with assistants. Compliance with the technology of work allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.

To find out how to make a roof with your own hands correctly, you need to study several instructions for performing this rather complex work. It should be noted right away that there are several types of roofs, each of which has its own device scheme and requires a special approach. In addition, the choice of the type of roof will also depend on the purpose of the building that will be covered with it.

Correctly erected elements of the roof will be able to protect the house not only from precipitation, but also retain precious heat inside the building in winter. Therefore, a well-built and insulated roof is just as important as reliable warm walls.

Roof types

As mentioned above, there are several types of roofs. When choosing an option suitable for a specific structure, it is worth considering some of them in order to know what they are.

Various types of roofs ...

To date, in construction practice, the following main types of roofs are satisfied:, single-pitched, gable with a slope, hipped roof, attic, hip hip, half-hip, multi-pitched.

... from the simplest to the most complex

Shed roof

This option is usually used to cover garages or outbuildings, but sometimes such a roof is also suitable for residential private houses.

Such a design can be called one of the simplest of all existing, especially in cases where the slope of the slope is very small. If, however, the plans are to equip another room under the roof, then the design becomes somewhat more complicated. But nevertheless, this type of roof is the most economical in terms of roofing and sawn timber consumption.

Gable roof

The gable version of the roof is considered traditional for residential buildings, country houses and is installed more often than all other types. Apparently, this is due to the fact that such a roof can be arranged with any structure of the building. The slope of the slopes will depend on the distance between the outer walls and the location of the load-bearing walls inside the house.

Hipped roof

This is a rather complex design that has hardly been used recently. However, if it is decided to choose it, then it is better to use a beam-tightening system with struts and struts for the device.

The roof consists of four isosceles triangles - their tops converge at one point. The hipped roof resembles a tetrahedral pyramid or tent, hence its name.

Sloped gable roof

Such a roof is arranged according to the scheme of a gable roof, but has bevels of different slopes in the front part.

Hip or hipped roof

This design is somewhat reminiscent of the tent-roofed version of the roof, but, in contrast to it, there is a ridge in it. The roof is quite complex in the device, and most often a scheme with double puffs and beams is used for its construction.

Half hip roof

In recent years, this design has hardly been used, since it is rather complicated in the device. If it is chosen, then it is mainly arranged according to the rafter scheme with puffs.

Pitched roof

Such a roof is arranged in houses with complex layouts, or if an extension has been made to the main building. The design of a multi-slope roof is quite complex, and it is used only in extreme cases.

Roof roof

Mansard roof you can't call it simple in execution ...

Due to the fact that such a design allows you to solve two problems at once - to get an additional room at the same time as a reliable roof, the attic option can be called one of the most popular after the gable type.

... but under certain conditions, a residential attic can also be placed under a conventional gable roof

Roof slope

It is very important to make the correct slope of the roof - the durability of not only the structure covering the house, but also the entire building will depend on this. In regions with cold winters and a large amount of snow, the slope plays an especially important role, since if it is insufficient, snowdrifts will collect on the surface, which, when melted, can simply fall through the roof. That is why it is recommended to make the slope at least 40 ÷ 45 degrees.

In addition to the location of the building, roofing material also affects the choice of roof slope. So, if it is planned to use tiles or slate for covering, then the slope should not be less than 25 degrees, otherwise water may seep into the attic at the joints, since there will be a small flow rate of water.

When a gable structure is installed, the slope is usually made from 30 to 45, and a single-slope 25 ÷ 30 degrees.

Components of the roof structure

In different roof systems, the elements vary, but the main ones still remain the same. These include the following:

The ridge is the upper part of the roof, the place where its slopes join. This element is absent in the hipped and single-pitched version.
Slopes are the main surfaces of the roof covered with roofing material.
Endova - the inner corner of the roof, formed at the junction of two slopes. This element is present in only complex structures. When arranging the roof of the valleys, special attention should be paid to waterproofing works, since such a site is one of the most vulnerable points of the structure, it is in them that the largest accumulation of snow occurs.
The eaves overhang is the overhang of the roof on the sides of the house. They carry out installation of drainage systems.
Gable overhang - the protruding part of the slopes above the front side of the roof.
The rafter system is a structure that is the basis for the device of the slopes. There are several varieties of these systems, but the most reliable of them is the triangle, since it is this figure that gives the structure its rigidity.

Rafter systems

Before installing any structure made of wood, the material must first be covered with antiseptic agents and fire retardants, which can protect it from fungal formations, insect colonies and will increase the fire safety of the entire system.

The main element in the rafter system is the rafters laid on the Mauerlat, supported by uprights, fastened with rods and ties.

In the upper part, the rafters are overlapped and fastened, while the lower ones are fixed to the Mauerlat or to the bars laid between the rafters.

The rafter system has different shapes and can be layered or hanging.

A simplified version can be made when a crate is stuffed onto the rafters, and roofing material is immediately laid on top of it. But the very first winter will show that the roof requires insulation. Therefore, it is best to do everything right at once and not return to this issue anymore.

The approximate structure of the "sandwich" of the insulated roof

The first thing that is recommended to do is to sheathe the rafter system from the inside with a vapor barrier film. It is stretched and attached to the rafters with a stapler and staples.
Further, on top of the vapor barrier film, the roof from the attic side is sheathed with plasterboard plates - it is screwed on with self-tapping screws. Drywall will not only add neatness to the attic space, but also serve as the basis for insulation plates.
At the next stage, you will have to go up to the roof, so that between the rafters, on the vapor barrier film, lay insulation, which is most often mineral wool in mats or rolls.
A boardwalk is laid on top of the insulation. The boards for it should not be too thick, so as not to make the structure heavier. Instead of boards, you can also use plywood sheets (or OSB) with a thickness of 4-5 mm.
The next layer is sheets of waterproofing material - it can be a dense polyethylene film or roofing material. Waterproofing sheets are overlapped by 20 ÷ 25 cm on top of each other.
On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is arranged, which consists of slats 10-20 mm thick and stuffed directly onto the rafters.
By counter-lattice the roof lathing is fixed, with the distance between adjacent guides, which should be less than the tiles, by about 5 mm.
A frontal board is nailed along the cornice, to which a drainage system will later be arranged.
Before laying the roofing material, hooks are attached to the rafters, on which the gutters will be mounted gutters... After their installation, a cornice strip is installed, which is fixed to the frontal board.
Having arranged the crate and drainage system, you can start installing the tiles. It starts from the right or left side of the roof, from the bottom row, the tiles are aligned along the edge of the cornice and overlapped, in accordance with the locking system on it.

The second row of shingles begins to be laid on the same side as the first - it covers the first row by 50 ÷ 70 mm. Installation is carried out in the same way in order, right up to the ridge of the roof.
After completing the installation on the roof slopes, it is necessary to install a ridge at their junction.
An end bar with a size of 25 × 50 mm is fixed to the side rafter; it is installed at the corner of the roof corner - stub.
A self-adhesive sealant is placed between the end block and the tiles.
The entire side side of the roof is closed with an end strip, which is designed to protect the roofing material from the wind, which can tear off the covering in case of strong gusts.

Above, the process of arranging a roofing system and a tiled roof was outlined in a nutshell, with a simple listing of the main steps. It probably makes sense to consider it in more detail, literally step by step.

Prices for various types of tiles

Shingles

Step-by-step instructions for overlapping a roof with a tiled roof

Installation of the base for the roofing material

Nowadays, a very wide variety of different roofing coatings are presented on the construction market. Nevertheless, shingles and against this "background" do not lose their popularity, although they are among the most difficult and time-consuming in the installation of roofs.

Ceramic tiles are represented by several European and domestic companies, and they may differ in some constructive nuances. But the principle of mounting the lathing and the coating itself is the same.

For the installation and fastening of the tiles, it is necessary to create the correct basis - the crate, therefore, it is necessary to start considering the process with the installation of this particular section of the structure.

Illustration
	At the initial stage, of course, one of the types of rafter systems is created, the design of which is described above. Before starting work on the installation of the battens on the rafters, the elements of the system must be additionally checked for their evenness and correct geometry. If irregularities are found on one of the rafter legs, then it must be leveled, since this flaw can negatively affect further work. Checking is carried out using a perfectly flat bar and building level.
	The next step along the entire cornice line, a metal cornice strip is nailed to the edges of the rafters, which will protect the ends of the rafters from moisture getting on them. Individual planks are stacked and overlapped.
	Further, on top of the rafter system, a vapor-permeable membrane is stretched and fixed with brackets. Its first canvas is laid from left to right on top of the eaves strip.
	The next strip of material is laid horizontally, with an overlap of 150 mm on the bottom sheet. The membrane is mounted with an inscription, which is applied to one of the surfaces, outward. Along the cornice edge, the canvas is additionally fixed on the cornice strip using construction double-sided tape.
	The last top sheet should protrude above the ridge, as it folds onto the second roof slope.
	The next step is to fix the vapor-permeable membrane from above to the rafter legs with counter-rails. It should be borne in mind that if the length of the slope is not more than 6000 mm, the thickness of the counter-rail should be 24 mm, with a length of not more than 12000 mm - 28 mm, from 12000 mm - 40 mm. Counter battens should not reach 120 ÷ 150 mm to the ridge rib.
	Further, on the ridge on top of the junction of the rafter legs, pieces of timber with a length of 150 ÷ 200 and a section of 50 × 50 mm are fixed. The space remaining between them will act as ventilation gaps.
	After that, the ridge is covered with a sheet of a vapor-permeable membrane, which should be on the slopes and go beyond the structure from the gables to a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm.
	On top of the membrane, laid along the ridge, for its fixation, in the continuation of the counter-rails, pieces of the bar are fixed. Their size should be equal to the distance from the end of the counter-rail to the ridge of the ridge.
	When forming the eaves overhang, a perforated mesh strip is mounted on the ends of the counter-rails and on the eaves strip, designed to provide ventilation of the space formed under the roofing material and protect against the penetration of various insects into this lumen.
	Further, in the cornice part of the counter-rails, brackets are fixed for mounting gutters on them. Each of them is fixed with two screws or nails.
	In order for the gutter to fit into the brackets without problems, they must be installed exactly in line with the formation of a slope for free water flow. To do this, the craftsmen often install two extreme brackets with the necessary difference, then pull the cord between them, and, already focusing on it, fix the remaining hooks.
	After installing the brackets, a hinged beam is nailed along the eaves edge of the counter rails along the entire length of the ramp eaves. It also becomes the starting bar of the sheathing for the tiles.
	From the hinged beam on the extreme (at the gables or fractures of the roof profile) counter-rails of the slope, a distance (step) is marked with which the battens of the lathing will be fixed. This step will depend on the length and overlap of your particular tile model. Most often it varies from 340 mm to 370 mm. The markings must be done on the extreme counterrails. Then, on the marked risks, it is hammered into a nail, a colored tracing cord is fixed and stretched on them, and with the help of it, a common line is bounced off on all counter-rails to secure the battens of the crate.
	The next step along the entire plane of the slope along the markings, horizontal battens of the crate are nailed to the counterrails. Their cross-sectional size should be 70 × 30 or 70 × 25 mm.
	Upon completion of installation, the crate should look like this.
	Further, it is necessary to prepare the ridge of the roof for further installation of ridge tiles on it - this can be done by fixing two beams to the ridge along the entire length, one on top of the other.
	Another option is to use special elements called ridge bar holders. They are screwed to the counter rails using two self-tapping screws on each side of the ridge.
	A wooden bar is installed and fixed in the fixed holders. Holders are convenient in that they can have different sizes and heights, so you can always choose it according to the required parameters.
	Further, the gutter is installed and fixed in the brackets along the entire length of the eaves.
	The gutter is additionally pressed by another cornice strip, installed on the cornice strip. This element, fixed along the entire length of the eaves, closes the entrance to the under-roof space, thereby protecting it from moisture, and descends into the gutter.
	Further, on top of the lathing along the edges of the slope from the side of the gables, bars with a section of 70 × 70 mm are nailed. They will form the basis for securing the wind board from the gable part of the roof, as well as limit and cover the edge of the tiled masonry.
	After that, wind boards are installed and fixed along the pediment, which are additionally connected to each other in the area of the ridge with a metal corner. At this, the preparation of the lathing for the installation of the tile covering can be considered complete.

Installation of tiles on a prepared lathing

The installation of most models of ceramic tiles is almost identical, no matter what manufacturer's material is chosen by the owners.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The installation of the tiles starts from the eaves on the right side of the ramp. The first is the corner tile, which is fixed to the second rail from the eaves.
	The fixing of the first tile is done in the upper part using two self-tapping screws, which do not twist to the end.
	Further, the entire first row of tiles is laid out, each of which in the upper part is fixed on the batten rail with one self-tapping screw through a hole pre-drilled in it.
	At the end of the first row of tiles, the last one is installed and screwed on with two self-tapping screws, the corner left tile.
	Further, from the bottom to the ridge, the first vertical pediment row is mounted, consisting of corner tiles, each of which is fixed with two self-tapping screws.
	Next, you will need to prepare a tile that will fit on top of the bracket for mounting a snow barrier on it. In order for the tile to neatly stand up and close the bracket, its location is marked on its reverse side and a part of the lock is carefully knocked out with a hammer.
	Now, in the second horizontal row with a step of 900 mm, the brackets themselves are installed. This element is hooked with the upper part and screwed to the third rail of the batten from the eaves. With the lower side, it is installed on top of the lower tile of the first row.
	When installed and secured, the bracket should appear as shown in this illustration.
	Next, the prepared tiles are installed on top of the fixed bracket and screwed to the third batten of the batten.
	The tile covering the bracket is additionally fixed with a wire hook, with which it is hooked onto the side edge and attracted by twisting to the batten rail. Thus, every third tile of this row is fixed, laid on the brackets-holders. This illustration clearly shows the wire hook located on the left edge of the second row shingles.
	Having installed the tiles of the second row, and fixing all the brackets for the snow barrier, you need to try it on in place as it will be fixed later. It does not make sense to fix the barrier yet, as it will interfere with the further installation of the shingles.
	Further, the laying of ordinary and corner tiles with an overlap is made, with their connection to the locks, also from right to left, from bottom to top to those areas where additional elements necessary for the normal functioning of the roof structure are built into the coating.
	In this way, most often it is necessary to lay special ventilation tiles. If the roof has a length of up to 4500 mm, then these elements are not used. With a length from 4500 to 7000 mm, one row of ventilation tiles is mounted on the second row, counting from the ridge. On longer roofs, the ventilation tiles are installed in three rows with a distance of 1500 mm.
	On the third or fourth row from the ridge in the middle of the slope, a tile with a ventilation pipe, called a walk-through, is installed.
	In combination with other elements of the roof, this element looks as shown in this illustration.
	Having tried on this tile on a slope, it is temporarily removed, and a round hole is marked and cut in the membrane under it. Then a sealing ring is installed in it.
	Further, from the side of the attic, a corrugated connecting pipe is inserted into the ring. Usually its diameter is 120 mm. Then, it is connected with the reverse side to the ventilation duct of the building.
	On top of the ventilation pipe, a protective cap is put on, which will protect the entire channel from atmospheric precipitation, dust and debris.
	A bench (step) for a chimney sweep is often purchased complete with a tile. This element of the roofing system is fixed on the fourth or fifth row from the ridge. The bench brackets also have a hook design, and they are hooked and screwed to the top batten of the batten in the row. The underside of the brackets is installed in the grooves on the tiles of the underlying row.
	In order for the roof tiles of the upper row covering the brackets to fit tightly to the batten rail, chips are made in its locks located in the upper part after fitting. Then, the tiles are laid on top of the bracket hooks and fixed with screws and a wire hook - by analogy with what was already discussed above.
	Another important and difficult knot when covering a roof is the design of the abutment of the roofing material to the walls of the chimney. The joint between them must be sealed correctly and tightly. The most convenient way to work on the formation of the abutment is to use a flexible self-adhesive tape made with lead and aluminum. It takes the shape of the tiles well and adheres well to it. Junction finishing works are carried out in a certain sequence. First, the tape is glued to the front of the chimney leading to its side walls, as well as to the tiles of the row in front of the chimney. To do this, in place, on the tape, cuts of the desired shape are made. Then, it is measured and cut, and then the tape is glued to the side walls and the adjacent tiles.
	To form a joint on the back of the pipe, take two pieces of tape of the same length, which exceeds the width of the pipe by 20 ÷ 30 mm. They are glued together in width. Then, combining the middle of the tape and the width of the pipe at a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm, the waterproofing is glued to the wall of the chimney and onto a metal sheet previously fixed to the crate on the upper side of the pipe. After that, a row of tiles is laid on top of the tape glued to the metal. The parts of the tape protruding at the corners are notched, wrapped on the sides of the pipe, and glued with an overlap, onto the waterproofing already fixed on them.
	Some craftsmen prefer to decorate the abutment with sheet metal, which is cut into strips of the required width, mounted according to the same principle as a self-adhesive waterproofing tape. The joining of the edges of the metal at the corners is carried out using rivets and folding.
	Having fastened a waterproofing tape or a metal casing around the entire perimeter of the pipe, along its upper line on the pipe walls, a metal profile strip is fixed, pressing the flexible tape to the surfaces of the chimney. Then, the gap remaining between the upper edge of the strip and the wall of the chimney is filled with a roof seal. Often, a pipe is cut into the wall of the pipe, into which the bent edge of this metal ebb bar is inserted. Then the pipe is sealed with the same sealant.
	Next, they move on to work on the ridge knot. First, on the fixed ridge beam, overlapping the upper row of shingles, a perforated sealing ventilation tape made using aluminum and lead is laid.
	Thanks to its flexibility, this ribbon skirt fits perfectly into tiles without much effort.
	After laying the tape, the end ridge element is screwed on from the gable side of the ridge, and the first ridge tile is tried on to it.
	Further, the first tile is removed, and the ridge clamp with a bracket, which comes with the ridge tile, is screwed to the bar fixed to the ridge of the roof.
	Then the first ridge tile is installed in it. Further, it is attached on the other side with the next clamp using a self-tapping screw.
	The next step is to install a second tile into the fixed bracket, which is also fixed at the end with a clamp - and so on, until the ridge is fully formed.
	When finished, the ridge should look like the one shown in this illustration.
	The final stage in the design of the ridge is to secure the second end element. If necessary, the last tile of this row is cut to the required size.
	When all additional elements the roofing will be installed, with the last step to the brackets installed in the lower part of the slope, a lattice barrier that prevents snow from sliding is fixed.
	This illustration shows the finished roof slope as viewed from the cornice side.
	This is how the roof slope will look with all the elements installed on it.

After finishing the roof covering, you can move to the attic to remove the temporary decking and install the already permanent wood floor. Installation begins from the side of the attic or from the side of the room. The attic floor also consists of several layers and is arranged in different ways. The main thing is that if the roof is arranged, then the work can be carried out slowly, without fear of rainfall on permeable materials and inside the premises.

In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing once again that the construction of the roof is a laborious, responsible and rather dangerous process. Therefore, to carry out the installation of the entire roofing system, it is sometimes better to invite specialists who are professionally engaged in the construction of houses, installation and roofing.

At the moment, a large number of different types, among which the following can be noted:

multi-slope;
gable;
half-hip;
single-pitched;
hip hip;
gable with a slope;
attic;
tent.

Among this list there are very simple options, and very complex for every taste.

Mono-pitched

This type of roof is often used as a covering for households. buildings, sheds, garages, but it happens when it is also used for private residential buildings.

This is the most simple construction, which does not cause any difficulties for any person who wishes to create or renovate it. Ease of work is especially evident in the case of creating a slight slope.

If it becomes necessary to create another room, then the roof will be a little more complex in its design. But in any case, this is the simplest and cheapest option regarding the consumption of lumber and roofing.

Gable

This is the most traditional option for suburban or private residential buildings. This type can be found everywhere, more often than others. Most likely, this is due to the fact that such a roof will be the most successful option, regardless of the structure of the building. As for the slope of the slopes, it directly depends on the distance between the outer walls and the location of the inner ones.

Tent

Compared to other types of roofs, the design of the hipped roof version is much more complicated and less and less common. In any case, if this type is chosen, it is necessary to use a beam-tightening system together with uprights and struts.

Such a roof consists of 4 isosceles triangles that converge in the middle at one point. The name comes from its appearance, which resembles a marquee.

Sloped gable roof

As its name implies, the roof implies a classic gable version, but together with bevels of different slopes.

Hip or hip

Such a design may resemble a hipped-roof type, but among the differences it is worth noting the presence of a ridge. The device is quite complex, therefore, options with beams and double ties are often used for construction.

Half-hip

Due to its rather complex structure, such a roof can be found less and less. But in the event that this type is chosen, then the rafter system with puffs is most often used.

Multi-slope

If the building has complex layout, then this option is most often used. It can also be found on ordinary houses, to which an extension has been made. Due to the fact that the design of this system is very complex, it is used only by specialists in very rare cases.

Attic

This is also a rather difficult option in execution, but under some conditions it can be done under the classic gable version.
The design is capable of simultaneously solving 2 problems at once:

Get a secure roof over your head.
Get an extra room.

This method is the most popular after the gable.

Roof slope

The correct bias is very important. Not only the durability of the building structure, which it covers, but also the whole house as a whole, directly depends on it. Slope is of particular importance in those houses that are located in a harsh winter climate, where a large amount of snow can fall. If the slope is not enough, then large masses of snow will form on the roof, which negatively affect the roof and can collapse it. In such cases, the slope must be at least 40 degrees.

The choice of slope is determined not only by the climate and location features, but also by the roofing material. Using for these purposes a covering of slate or tiles, it is imperative to control the slope, which should not be less than 25 degrees, otherwise rainwater may seep into the attic due to the fact that the intensity of its flow down will be insufficient.

In the event that they equip a gable roof, then the slope should not be less than 25 degrees, and for a gable roof they make a slope within 30-45.

Components of the roof structure

Despite the fact that roof elements may differ based on types, the same basic elements are used:

rafter system - is a structure that is the basis for creating ramps: there are several options for such structures, but a triangle is used as the most reliable one, which provides the necessary level of rigidity to the entire system;
the ridge is the uppermost part of the roof, in which all the slopes converge. As for the single-slope and hip-roof types, skates are not provided in them;
gable overhang - part of the slopes that protrude above the front side of the roof;
slope - the plane of the roof, which is covered with roofing material;
eaves overhang - represents overhangs on the sides of the building, to which drainage systems are brought;
valley - represents the inner corner of the roof, which occurs at the junction of 2 slopes. Such an element can only be found on roofs with a very complex structure. As roof construction is initiated, valleys need to be given special attention during waterproofing work due to the fact that this is one of the weakest points in the structure.

Rafter systems

Before installing any structure made of wood, it must first be treated with special agents that will help protect the tree from fungus, mold and insects. In addition to treatment with antiseptic or other agents, it is also necessary to think about increasing safety by treating it with fire-fighting compounds.

The main elements of the rafter system

As for the main parts in the rafter system, the main ones are the rafters, which are laid directly on the Mauerlat, which are supported by racks and puffs.

The upper part of the rafters is overlapped, after which it is fixed, and the lower one is attached to the bars that are stacked between the rafters. The design of the rafter system can be different.

During the construction of the roof, it is necessary to calculate the length of the rafters as carefully as possible. This must be done taking into account the distance between the walls and the rafters themselves.

Rafter roof system

This option is often used in those rooms where internal load-bearing walls are used, which provide the basis for the entire rafter system. This option is much more common than hanging, due to its ease of installation.

It is also worth noting that during installation, savings and construction material... The ridge is used as the main point of support of the structure, in which all paired rafters are fastened.

The classic options for the layered structure of the rafters are as follows:

In this version, the rafters are connected on the ridge and fixed with a support, which is referred to as sliding, and the lower end is fixed directly to the Mauerlat by means of a tie-in. Among other things, as an additional fixation, the rafters are also attached to the wall with wire.
Using this method, the rafters are attached to each other on a ridge using special sheets of metal and bolts, and the lower part is fixed to the Mauerlat with a special movable joint.
The latter option implies the use of a rafter bar with its fixation with a run on the ridge. For these purposes, bars and boards are used to make the mount more rigid. The bottom edge is attached in the same way as in the previous method.

Layer-type fixation system

As the main difference and advantages of this type of system from hanging systems, the floating option of fixation can be noted. The roof structure does not put pressure on the walls, so they will last much longer and will be less damaged.

But there are also cases when the spacer system will be more relevant, when the lower edge of the rafters is fixed with a rigid attachment to the base. In this case, in order to reduce the load on the walls, additional reinforcement is applied using puffs and struts.
This design is not similar to both versions of the scheme, it is considered more intermediate.

Before starting the installation of the truss structure, it is necessary to put the temporary flooring from the boards on the floor beams that are built into the wall. This is necessary to ensure maximum safety during work on the creation of the base for the roof covering. Only after the creation of such conditions can one proceed to the main stage of creating a rafter structure.

As the arrangement of a private house, it is often the layered version of the rafter design that is used. That is why it is very important to know all the stages of installing such a system:

As a first step, waterproofing material is laid on the longitudinal walls of the building. For these purposes, roofing material is often used, but other types of waterproofing can also be taken;
now it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat along the upper end of the wall and fix it with anchors, as this element a pre-processed wooden bar with a cross section of at least 150 by 150 mm is taken;
rafters are laid on top of the timber, which are fixed with brackets to the base, and the upper part is fixed with an overlap using special steel pads or attached to the ridge;
among other things, the rafters must be additionally fixed to the wall using a twist; for these purposes, at a distance of about 30 cm from the top, a crutch is installed, to which the wire clings. It is attached to the rafter and then twisted. This method is called twisting. It is necessary so that in a gusty wind, the roof is not blown away;
the wall must be protected from rain as much as possible. For these purposes, you need to make an overhang and bring the puffs and rafters beyond the outer edge of the wall. The overhang must be at least 55-60 cm long;
now it remains to strengthen the rafters using racks, girders and struts.

Hanging rafter system

For those buildings that do not have capital partitions inside, and the distance between the load-bearing walls, which are located opposite to each other, does not reach 6-11 meters, the construction of hanging rafters is used.

This option is optimal for those buildings where the roof will only rest on the walls around the perimeter.

Hanging truss system principle

It is necessary to understand that this version of the system gives a strong spacer load on the walls, therefore, to reduce it, it is necessary to use special horizontal parts that will fix the rafters to each other. Puffs are used as such elements.

Such elements can be fixed anywhere in the rafters. Among other things, they are also used as a lag for the attic floor, when they are fixed in the lower part.

Popular options for bundling and strengthening hanging rafters

The installation of such a structure takes place using rafters, which are taken as a bar with a cross section of at least 50 by 200 mm. It is very important that an accurate calculation is carried out by a professional architect:

during the installation of such a structure, the Mauerlat must initially be mounted;
the second stage prepares the first 2 paired rafters. Their upper and lower parts are specially cut at a sufficient angle, cuts are created along the lower edge to increase stability structures;
further, 2 rafters rise upward for further fixation on the base, but at this stage they do not need to be fastened, while the upper parts are connected at an angle, also without fixation;
at this stage, it is necessary to pay maximum attention to the exact fit of the first two rafters to each other, since they will be the basis for creating other elements of the rafter structure. Next, you need to lower the first pair of rafters to the ground and make other elements in their image;
as soon as all the elements are prepared and numbered, they can be lifted up, mounted and fixed at first the extreme parts of the structure. Next, the upper corners are connected using a stretched cord, which will become the level that determines the position of the remaining parts;
as soon as all the rafters are laid, their upper part should be connected with the use of a bar, taking into account the distance that should be between them - it should be exactly the same as in the lower part when fixing to the base;
then tightenings are installed, which are best mounted with an overlap at the bottom;
initially, all the connections of the structure must be fastened with nails in order to further firmly fix the entire system using metal corners, plates and bolts. Only such a fixation will provide the necessary strength, rigidity and reliability;
if necessary, then the structure can be additionally reinforced with racks and slopes.

Installation of a tiled roof

Before making a roof of a house, it is very important to understand the installation system of a tiled roof, since this method is quite popular in modern times. As soon as the work on the installation of the rafters and all other details has been completed, it is necessary to start covering with tiles.

It is worth noting that some people use the simplest type of roofing "pie", when a crate is stuffed over the rafters, after which the roofing material is laid on it, but this option must be insulated. It is necessary to pay maximum attention to this issue so as not to return to this process after the first winter.

Insulated roofing "pie"

An approximate creation scheme looks like this:

initially it is necessary to sheathe the rafter structure with paraisol (vapor barrier film). The process is carried out by stretching the film and attaching it to the rafters using a construction stapler;
on top of the vapor barrier film from above, it is necessary to sheathe the roof with sheets of drywall, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. This is done not only in order to give the attic more aesthetics, but also to create the basis for insulation;
now you need to lay the insulation plates between the rafters on top of the film. For these purposes, mineral wool is often used;
on top of the insulation, it is necessary to lay the flooring of the boards. It is very important not to take unnecessarily thick boards for these purposes, so as not to make the entire structure too heavy. For this, you can use OSB or plywood 4-5 mm;
now it's time for another layer, which should be waterproofing material. Roofing material or plastic wrap is often used. The layers should be overlapped by about 20 cm;
then a counter-lattice is stuffed, for which slats 1-2 cm thick are used, which is fixed to the rafters;
on top of the counter-lath, the roof lathing is fixed with a step from the adjacent guides less than the tiles by 5 mm;
for the device of the drainage system, the frontal board is fixed along the cornice;
Before installing the tiles on the rafters, hooks must be secured so that rainwater gutters can be installed later. Next, a cornice strip is mounted, which is also fixed on the frontal board;
the last step after completing all the above steps is the laying of the tiles. You can start laying from any edge of the roof from the bottom row. The roofing material must be aligned with the edge of the eaves and overlapped using the locking system;
the second row of material should be laid from the same edge as the previous one, and should cover it by about 5-7 cm. In this way, all subsequent rows are stacked up to the ridge itself;
after all the slopes are covered with roofing material, it is required to install a ridge at the junction of the tiles;
an end bar 2.5 by 5 cm is fixed on the side rafter, a plug is mounted on the corner of the roof;
a self-adhesive sealant is placed in the space between the roofing material and the bar;
the side of the roof is closed using an end strip, the main purpose of which is to protect the roof from strong winds, which can blow the roof away in case of strong gusts.

The above scheme for arranging the roof is figurative, where the main actions are shown. In order to fully understand all the nuances of this process, it is necessary to dwell in more detail at each stage.

Step-by-step process of roofing tiles

Despite the fact that the counters building stores overflowing with a myriad of different roofing designs, shingles are still one of the most popular options, even though they are considered one of the most difficult roofing materials to install.

Ceramic tiles are produced not only by several domestic, but also by well-known European factories. Despite the fact that she may differ in her design features, the coating and preparation process remains the same.

To install and fix this roofing material, you first need to make a crate. The installation of the roof should begin precisely with the creation of the correct foundation.

First step

Initially, it is necessary to mount one of the options for the truss structures that were described earlier.
Before proceeding with the installation of the lathing on top of the rafters, all structural elements must be additionally checked for their evenness. If an unevenness is found on any of the rafter legs, it must be eliminated, otherwise problems may arise during installation.

It is necessary to carry out such work using a building level and a flat bar.

Second step

At this stage, it is necessary to fill the cornice strip along the entire line of the eaves on the edges of the rafters, the main purpose of which is to protect the end of the rafters from water ingress. The individual planks are fitted and overlapped.

Third step

Now, on top of the rafter structure, it is necessary to stretch and fix the vapor barrier with a construction stapler. Lay this membrane from left to right over the eaves. The second strip should stretch horizontally, with an overlap of 15 cm on the previous canvas.
The inscription on the film must look outward during installation. Further, in addition, the film should be fixed along the edge of the cornice strip. For these purposes, use double-sided construction tape.

The last strip of membrane should be located above the ridge, as it will need to be bent for the second roof slope.

Fourth step

It is very important to take into account the following case, when the length of the slope is not longer than 6 meters, then the thickness of the counter-strip should be 2.4 cm.In the case when the slope reaches 12 meters, then the thickness should be 2.8 cm and over 12 meters - 4 cm.

Important! Counter battens should not reach the ridge rib by 12-15 cm.

Fifth step

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for the roof continue by securing pieces of timber with a section of 50 by 50 mm and a length of 15-20 cm on the ridge, over the junction of the rafter legs. The space between them is used as ventilation gaps.

Further, the ridge should be covered with a vapor-permeable film, which should extend beyond the structure by 20-25 cm and find it on the slopes. On top of the film along the ridge, it is fixed with pieces of timber, as a continuation of the counter rails. The size should be equal to the distance from the end of the counter-rail to the ridge of the ridge.

Sixth step

During the creation of the cornice overhang, a perforated mesh strip is installed on the ends of the counter-rails and the cornice strip, which acts as ventilation under the roofing material and at the same time protects this space from the penetration of various insects into it.

Now, in the cornice area of the counter-rails, brackets are fixed for the subsequent installation of rainwater gutters on them. They need to be fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

For a simple and easy subsequent installation of gutters, it is very important that the brackets are installed as evenly and reliably as possible along the entire slope formation line, so that the water does not stagnate in the gutters, but flows freely downward.

To facilitate this process, experts proceed as follows. Initially, it is necessary to install only the first and last bracket with the required difference, and then pull a cord between them, which will later be a reference point along which other hooks will be installed.

As soon as all the hooks are installed, along the eaves edge of the counter rails, it is necessary to fix the hinged bar along the entire length of the eaves of the ramp. This will be the first timber to create the sheathing for the roofing material.

Seventh step

The construction of the roof of a private house must be continued with markings from the curtain bar to the extreme ones. This distance will serve to determine the step with which the battens of the battens will be attached.

This distance is directly related to the overlap and the length of the tiles that were purchased. Often it varies between 34-37 cm.

The markings are carried out on the extreme counter-rails. Next, you need to hammer in one nail at the marks and pull a colored cord between them, so that later, with its help, beat off a common line for fixing the battens of the crate.

Eighth step

Now, according to the created markings, the horizontal battens of the crate should be nailed. The cross-section of the lathing should be 7 cm by 3 or 2.5 cm.

Ninth step

At this stage, you need to start preparing the ridge in order to further install the ridge tile on it. This is done by attaching two bars along the entire length to the ridge, one on top of the other. Some craftsmen use special ridge bar holders.

Such elements are fixed to the counter rails on both sides using 2 self-tapping screws. Once the holders are secured, a wooden block is fixed in them. It is much more convenient to work with special holders, since they have different heights and sizes, since in this case you can select the necessary parameters before making the roof yourself.

Tenth step

Now it remains to install and fix the gutter. As an additional fixation, the gutter is fixed with another cornice strip on the cornice strip. Such an element closes access to the under-roof space, performing protective functions from moisture.

Bars with a section of 7 by 7 cm are hammered on top of the lathing from the side of the gables along the edges of the slope. This is necessary in order to fix the wind board from the gable part of the roof and close the edge of the brickwork.
Now you need to mount and fix wind boards along the pediment, which are additionally fixed to each other in the ridge area using a metal corner. Thus, the lathing is ready for the installation of tiles.

Laying tiles on the lathing

Before making the right roof, it is necessary to prepare all the material and suitable tools. As soon as the crate is ready, it's time to proceed to the most crucial stage - the installation of the tiles.

Almost all types of shingles, regardless of the model or company of the manufacturer, are installed using the same method. Installation of this roofing material starts from the right side of the ramp, the bottom of it. First, you need to fix the corner element, which must be fixed on the second rail from the eaves.

The first tile element is fixed in its upper part using 2 self-tapping screws, which must not be screwed in completely.

Now you need to install the entire first row of shingles. It is enough to fix each one with only one self-tapping screw at the top of the element. The hole will need to be drilled ahead of time so as not to complicate the process of working on the roof. At the end of the row, the last element is the corner tile, which is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

Now, from the bottom to the ridge, you need to install the first vertical pediment row corner pieces... All of them must be securely fastened with two self-tapping screws. In order to be able to install a snow barrier, you must first prepare the tiles for these purposes.

So that the tiles have a neat appearance and covered the bracket with itself, it is necessary to mark its location on the reverse side, and then, as carefully as possible, knock out part of the lock using a hammer.

The next step in the second horizontal row is to install the brackets with a distance of 90 cm. This part is hooked and fixed to the third lathing rail, if you count from the cornice. At this point, its lower side is mounted on top of the lower tile of the first row. Thus, the construction of the roof of a wooden house gives maximum reliability.

The pre-prepared shingles are mounted on top of the fixed bracket and screwed onto the third rail. As an additional fixation of the tiles, which covers the bracket, it is necessary to use a wire hook, which clings to the side edge and is attracted by twisting to the batten rail. This method secures every third shingle of the row, which is stacked on the holders.

After the installation of the second row is completed, and all brackets for the snow barrier are fixed, it is necessary to try it on as it will be further fixed. Now you do not need to think about installing the barrier, since at this stage it will only interfere.

Now it is necessary to lay corner and ordinary tiles with a lock from bottom to top and from right to left until other additional elements of the roof, which are necessary for its stable, natural and durable functioning, have to be built into the covering.

If the length of the roof is not more than 4.5 meters, then the installation of special ventilation elements of the tiles is not required. In the case when the length is from 4.5 to 7 meters, one row of ventilation tiles is installed on the second row from the ridge.

For roofs from 7 meters, such elements are installed in 3 rows with a distance of one and a half meters from each other. Approximately 3-4 rows from the ridge, in the middle of the scan, it is necessary to mount a tile with a ventilation pipe, which is referred to as a checkpoint. If we are building the roof of a house with our own hands step by step, then it is very important to try on this tile, then remove and mark a suitable circle on the membrane in order to further cut a hole there.

After that, it is required to install a sealing ring in it. Having penetrated into the attic, it is necessary to insert a connecting corrugated pipe into the ring. Often, its diameter is at the level of 12 cm.
Its other end is connected to the ventilation duct of the building. To prevent snow, rain or any debris from getting into the pipe, a protective cap is installed from the outside of the roof. It is also worth thinking about how to additionally buy a so-called chimney sweep bench and install it 4-5 rows from the ridge.

The design of the bench has brackets that cling to and fix to the top rail of the crate in the row. The lower part of the brackets is mounted in recesses on the tiles of the underlying row.

In order for the covering brackets of the tiles in the upper row to adhere as closely as possible to the batten rail, special chips must be made in the upper part of the locks after fitting. So the construction of the roof of a private house will be the most reliable.

It is very important to pay attention to other things. weakness which can cause premature loss of performance. It is necessary to tightly and correctly make the joint between the walls of the chimney and the roofing material.

To increase comfort while creating the abutment, it is most convenient to use flexible self-adhesive tape, which is created using aluminum and lead. Thanks to this composition, it is ideal for these purposes due to the ease of taking a relief shape.

In order for the abutments not to cause the loss of the performance of the entire roof, they must be made in a certain sequence.

Initially, the tape must be glued to the front of the pipe with an approach to the side walls and tiles of the row in front of the chimney. For these purposes, it is necessary to make cuts of the required shape on the tape.
After that, it is necessary to make the appropriate dimensions, and the tape is cut out, after which it is glued to the side walls and the adjacent tiles. To create the correct joint from the back of the pipe, you need to take 2 identical pieces of tape, which exceeds the width of the pipe by 2-3 cm.
They must be glued together in width.
Next, you need to combine the middle of the tape and the width of the pipe at a height of 1.5-2 cm. Waterproofing must be glued to a metal sheet and to the wall of the chimney. The sheet must first be fixed on the upper side of the pipe and on the crate.
After the tape is fixed over the metal, a row of tiles is laid on top.
The portions of the tape that protrude in the corners must be cut and wrapped in the sides of the pipe in order to overlap the fixed waterproofing.

Some craftsmen, before assembling the roof, prepare sheet metal, cut into strips of the required width, in order to subsequently mount them according to the same principle to form a joint. The edges of the metal at the corners are joined using folding and rivets.

The tiles can now be laid on top of the bracket hooks and secured with screws using the wire hook. As soon as a metal casing or waterproofing tape is fixed along the entire circumference of the pipe, a metal profile strip is fixed along the entire upper line of the pipe walls, the task of which is to press the flexible tape to the surface of the chimney.

Ridge knot

The first step is to overlap the top row of tiles on the fixed ridge beam with a perforated ventilation sealing tape, which includes lead and aluminum.
Due to its unique composition, this tape easily takes the shape of a tile. As soon as the tape is in place, an end ridge element must be attached to the gable side of the ridge, to which the first ridge tile must be tried on.

After fitting, the shingles must be removed and a clamp with a bracket, which is provided with the ridge shingles, must be screwed to the timber fixed to the roof ridge. After it is fixed, it is necessary to insert the first tile into it and fix it to the other side with the next clamp using a self-tapping screw.
Before you put the roof on your house with your own hands, it is very important to study the instructions from the very beginning to the end.

After the bracket has been fixed, you need to install the second shingles and all the others using the same method until the ridge is fully formed. To finish creating the ridge, you need to install a second end piece. If necessary, the last shingle in this row can be cut to the required size.

As soon as all the additional parts of the roofing are mounted, it remains only to install a lattice barrier on the brackets, which prevents the snow from slipping.

Once the roof covering is complete, you can return to the attic and remove the temporary decking that was installed for convenience and replace it with a permanent wood floor. Installation can be started from the side of the room or attic. Choice attic floor remains with the owner of the premises, but now you don't have to worry about rain or snow entering the premises.
Now you know how the roof is made and that it is quite complicated, time-consuming, but necessary process... When complex roofs, it would be advisable to use the services of professionals.