How to fix the imitation timber from the outside? We create a pleasant look for your home. Imitation of a bar in wall cladding and how to properly fix the imitation How to fix the imitation of a bar

Every owner of a private house knows that appearance home is just as important to the convenience of living as inner comfort. Environmentally friendly and modern material today is an imitation of timber. It represents panels that are installed according to a certain technology. If you observe accuracy during installation, then you can achieve high-quality finishes that will delight the family for several decades.

Timber imitation installation technology

Installation of imitation of a bar is carried out in several stages, among them:

  • choice of material and components;
  • preparation of walls;
  • installation of the crate;
  • work on the installation of panels;
  • protection of finishing with a decorating composition.

It is noteworthy that the imitation of a bar is versatile material, which can be installed not only outside, but also indoors.

Preparation of tools and materials

In order to carry out work on the installation of an imitation of a bar, it is necessary to prepare:

  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • nails;
  • kleimers;
  • timber or galvanized profile;
  • thermal insulation;
  • waterproofing;
  • screwdriver;
  • protective composition;
  • drill.

The beam will be used for the manufacture of lathing, the elements of which can be galvanized profiles. For the outer wall, you will need waterproofing and insulation. The screwdriver can be replaced with a clamping gun. If the house has concrete or brick walls, you will need a drill. For the accuracy of the location of the imitation of the timber, the building level should also be prepared.

Before you carry out the installation, you need to take care of the choice of panels. For interior cladding, grades A, AB, B, and also extra are best suited. As for the external walls, then a material is perfect for this, the width of the elements of which starts from 100 mm. If you use a less impressive width, then the finish will be like clapboard. In terms of interior decoration, the width should be reduced to 21 mm.

The installation of the imitation of a bar should begin with the preparation of the material. To do this, it should be brought into a dry room. The installation of the profile should be carried out vertically, the distance between the elements will be a limit of 60 to 80 cm. The timber will be cheaper, but during operation it will last much less, because the material has the properties of warping and rotting. Before starting work, wooden materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Even if you have to work with frame house, you still need to install the crate. It will create additional air space between the panel and the walls. This will eliminate the accumulation of moisture, and an additional air pocket will conserve heat inside the premises. Among other things, communications can be hidden in the hollow space.

Installation of imitation timber involves the use of waterproofing, which will protect the insulation. If you have to work with a wooden or frame house, then it will be more convenient to fix the material with self-tapping screws. The crate is attached to brick and aerated concrete surfaces with dowels or self-tapping screws.

Preparing the walls

Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the walls are sufficiently flat. They are pre-covered with plaster or sheathed with sheet materials. Walls wooden house usually they are not aligned, but when installing the crate, the elements still need to be fastened taking into account the vertical. On leveled walls, waterproofing should be strengthened with a stapler, it is installed with an overlap ranging from 30 to 40 cm.

Installation of the crate

If you are attracted by the imitation of a timber in appearance, the installation of this material with your own hands may well be carried out. The next step is to start fixing the crate. It is necessary to start these manipulations, moving from the corner of the house. The step of the lathing should be chosen taking into account not only but also the size of the insulation.

To strengthen the elements of the lathing from the timber to the brick wall, you first need to attach the material by drilling a through hole. Next, a dowel is driven in and the crate is screwed on. It's much easier to work with. For them, self-tapping screws are usually used, selected taking into account the thickness of the timber. However, this parameter should not be less than 30 mm.

If you will be installing an imitation of a bar, the instructions presented in the article should help you with this. The next step is to install the insulation, which is usually styrofoam or mineral wool. For indoor spaces this step is not needed. The thermal insulation is located between the profiles or beams, and is closed from above with a waterproofing film.

Installation of imitation of a bar

In order to extend the life of the timber imitation, it must be treated with an antiseptic. The panels are fastened moving from bottom to top. The first panel must be level. Approximately 15 cm should be retreated from the bottom of the house.

Installation can be carried out in one of several ways, the first involves the use of self-tapping screws, while the second involves the use of nails. There is another technology, which is accompanied by the installation and fastening of clamps. Using self-tapping screws, you can install them at a 45 ° angle. An alternative solution is screwing self-tapping screws into the upper part of the panel. The nails can be installed in the groove.

Fastening the clamps will be the easiest task, but this system will not be highly reliable. You can only use this method when the material is thinner than 21 mm. By using thin nail fasteners, you cannot guarantee that the panels will not loosen over time. That is why experts advise using self-tapping screws for external cladding.

Installation of fasteners in the front surface of the elements provides for preliminary drilling of holes for self-tapping screws. Their diameter should be larger than the screw cap. After installing the fasteners, a wooden cork is substituted, which is pre-treated with PVA glue. The surface can then be sanded.

The cost of installing a simulation of a bar

If you are not sure that you can independently carry out the installation of an imitation of a bar, the price of these services should be known to you. For 1 m 2 installation of finishing outside the building, you will have to pay 750 rubles. will be more expensive - 800 rubles. per square meter... If you have to finish the attic, then you will pay 950 rubles for the services of an external installation of imitation. per square meter, while work inside will cost a little less - 900 rubles.

Installing imitation timber inside the house: preparing the walls

The installation of an imitation of a bar inside also involves preparation. For this, the surface of the walls is cleaned of dust and dirt. On the base, it is necessary to strengthen the vapor barrier of the pergaline type, then you can proceed to the installation of the lathing. In this case, the distance between the elements will be a limit of 50 to 70 cm. On concrete and brick walls, the crate is reinforced with dowels, while self-tapping screws can be used when working with wooden walls. The timber is treated with antiseptics, and for wet rooms, a galvanized profile should be used.

Installation of panels

For some, the cost of installing an imitation of a bar turns out to be too high, at this moment they decide to do the work on their own. Installation is carried out horizontally, and the fixing method is similar to facade decoration.

It is most convenient to use kleimers for this, but when working with the ceiling, manipulations will be more complicated. In this case, it is better to use self-tapping screws or small nails. They should be installed in a tenon at an angle of 45 °. It is better not to use the front method for rooms, because it will be difficult to hide a small thickness behind the caps, which will ruin the appearance of the walls.

Conclusion

The installation of an imitation of a bar inside the house will also involve decorating the corners; for this, special internal and external elements are used. They are purchased together with the panels. But between the walls and the ceiling, baguettes should be installed. For the lower part of the room, you need to purchase a plinth. Once you are finished with the finish, it can be sanded and varnished. In some cases, toning is carried out, but this approach is "not for everybody". It is best to install painted panels on the ceiling, this will save time and effort.

Houses and summer cottages made of wood are gaining more and more popularity every year. But there are many ordinary people who do not want to use the timber as building material however, decorate the house in style wooden structure would not refuse. In such a situation, the most the best option is an imitation of a bar.

How can you simulate a timber

The effect of imitation of a bar in modern construction is achieved by using a board that has been chamfered and profiled for a bar. Such wooden panels are always mounted horizontally, unlike the usual siding, and allow you to create the effect of a house built from natural wood.

Sanding also helps to remove minor defects and stains from the surface of the board and bring its surface to the desired state, in which the siding will look as attractive as possible (decorative shine, rich texture, etc.).

How to do it yourself

Before attaching the false beam to the facade, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the house. First, the wall needs to be cleaned and a waterproofing layer applied. Next, fix the vapor barrier sheets, which should overlap (approximately 150 mm). It is better to start fixing the sheets from the top of the wall, and all seams and joints must be glued with aluminum tape.

Making sure that after the above works, the wall has flat surface, you need to proceed with the installation of the lathing on which the imitation under the timber will be attached. The lathing must be fixed in an upright position, as wooden lining mounted horizontally.

As a lathing, it is better to use wooden blocks that have a small cross-section and a thickness equal to the insulation layer (not less than 50 mm). Also, a layer of fireproof coating and antiseptic will have to be applied to their surface.

In the event that the rails have to be mounted on brick wall, frame dowels should be used as an attachment. For wooden walls, nails or screws are suitable.

Mats made of mineral wool or foam. If necessary, the insulation is attached to the wall with special dowels. A moisture-proof film is laid on top of the insulation, all joints of which are glued with aluminum tape.

Recommended on finished structure fix another crate, the presence of which will make possible ventilation between the layer of the board profiled for the timber and the wall surface. In this case, the thickness of the slats should not exceed 50 mm.

When all of the above work is completed, you can proceed to the installation of the lining. House cladding with imitation of timber begins, as a rule, from the lower part of the facade, which allows you to direct the spike of the board up. This will help prevent moisture from accumulating in the grooves.

At the bottom and top, you must leave a gap of 50 mm for ventilation of the internal space under the clapboard. There should also be a distance of 3-5 mm between the boards themselves. This will help to avoid the curvature of the bulwark when the temperature and humidity level changes due to changing seasons.

The bottom board should be exposed with building level and only then is it securely fixed. This is important for the reason that it will act as a guide for the other components of the cladding.

How to properly fix the lining

In order to securely and correctly fix the profiled board, you must adhere to a few simple principles.

As mentioned above, it starts from the bottom of the wall. After the first board is fixed at the bottom with a spike up, the next one is inserted with a groove into the spike, and at the same time there is a gap of several millimeters between the boards.

Fastened siding by means of 3 screws on each side: one is driven in the upper part, the other in the lower and the third at an angle of 45 ° directly into the tenon itself.

Also, kleimers, special metal brackets, are often used as an attachment to simulate a bar. They allow you to mount the lining without drilling the board itself. That is, the integrity of the material is not violated. Moreover, the cladding attached to the clamps can be dismantled at any time, keeping the material itself from damage, which is very convenient for finishing works indoors.

Thus, the installation process is simple enough to be carried out on your own.

Wood is one of the most beautiful, aesthetic and practical materials. Recently, home decoration with imitation of a bar has become very popular.

With its help, the building is faced both from the outside and from the inside, while flat or rounded elements can be used.

For cladding a house inside or outside, wood panels are used, which have different thicknesses.

After finishing with such material, people get the impression that the house is completely made of timber, with its help it is possible to clad houses made of various building materials.

The main advantages of decorating a house with imitation timber:

  • this material has high thermal insulation characteristics, so you not only decorate, but also insulate the facade;
  • this is natural material, it is environmentally friendly and safe for human health, so it can be safely used inside the house;
  • the material is relatively cheap and with its help any building can be made similar to wooden house;
  • used to decorate buildings made of a wide variety of building materials;
  • easy and simple to assemble;
  • has a long service life;
  • improves the soundproofing characteristics of the house;
  • has a low weight.

Among the disadvantages of imitation of a bar, the following should be noted:

  1. since this wood material, then it has a high fire hazard, to reduce it, the panels are treated with fire retardants;
  2. if the integrity of the structure is violated, then the material may begin to rot and deform, therefore, the house must be constantly monitored and immediately eliminated the defects that appear;
  3. periodically it is necessary to treat the surface with antiseptics and open it with varnish. If high-quality materials are used, then such processing should be done every 5-8 years;
  4. if rare types of wood are used, then the price of such products will be high.

Installation technology

Panels imitating timber have special locking joints, so their installation is simple and quick, and any home craftsman can cope with this task.

To complete the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • the calculated number of panels;
  • timber with a section of 50x50 mm, which is used to create the lathing;
  • bar section 25x50 mm for counter-lattice;
  • suspensions;
  • jigsaw;
  • hammer;
  • measuring instruments;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • kleimers, if installation is carried out inside the building.

First held preparatory work, during which the surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and dust.

After that, the installation is carried out wooden lathing, for which bars with a section of 50x50 or 25x50mm can be used, it all depends on the thickness of the insulation. If the wall is flat, then the crate can be attached directly to it; in other cases, the installation is carried out using suspensions.

On even wooden walls the crate is fastened with self-tapping screws, in other cases, its installation is carried out using dowels.

The walls must be vaporized; for this, a special film is attached under the crate. They do this with an overlap, which should be 10-15 cm, and with the help of adhesive tape they glue all the joints well.

Facade finishing

If the imitation of a bar is mounted on the facade of a building, then it is necessary to lay a thermal insulation material. For this, both rolled and matte materials are suitable.

Depending on the purpose of the building and on the climatic zone in which it is located, the thickness of the insulation may be different, but usually it is 50-100 mm. The thermal insulation material is placed between the crate on the vapor barrier.

Outside, the insulation must be protected with a wind-moisture protective membrane and all its joints are again glued with tape.

After laying the moisture-proof film, it is necessary to install a counter lattice on it; for this, beams with a section of 25x50 mm are used, it is needed to create normal ventilation of the cladding material.

Some craftsmen do not make counter-grill due to the fact that the panels have ventilation recesses, but they may not be enough to ensure proper ventilation, therefore wooden elements begin to rot and collapse.

Now you can proceed to the installation of panels, work starts from the bottom and moves up. The upper edge of the panel is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, after which the groove of the next panel is put on the spike of the previous one and it is fixed again with self-tapping screws.

If it becomes necessary to screw the panel through and through, then the head of the self-tapping screw is slightly recessed, after which it is covered with a mixture of varnish and sawdust, and when the composition dries, they process this place with sandpaper.

If you purchased unpainted panels, then they must be treated with an antiseptic and varnish, it is better to do this before installation, since then it will be more difficult to paint over the joints.

Methods for attaching panels and creating joints, outside

Depending on the width and thickness of the panels used, they can be fastened in several ways:

  1. anodized self-tapping screws through the panel itself, but after that it will be necessary to mask their caps with wooden inserts or putty;
  2. at an angle of 45 degrees into the panel spike, so that the material does not crack, it is recommended to make a hole first;
  3. with the help of nails, in this case the panel will be able to move a little and will not crack. The length of the nail or self-tapping screw should be such that it can enter the crate for 2/3 of its length;
  4. using clamps, but this method is suitable for panels of small thickness, therefore, it is usually used indoors.

There are several ways to dock boards in the corners:

  • I washed them down at an angle of 45 degrees;
  • with decorative wooden block, it must be purchased separately;
  • with the help of boards connected by the letter "G".

If it becomes necessary to join the panels in length, then this can be done through a strip, which is equal in thickness to the skin, or by sawing down the edges at an angle of 45 degrees.

After execution installation works, an imitation of a bar is covered with an antiseptic of deep penetration, allowed to dry, and then a decorative and protective coating of the desired shade is applied and everything is varnished, waxed or painted.

When carrying out interior decoration, two layers of paint and varnish are enough, three of them are needed on the outside.

How to properly mount indoors

The peculiarity of these works is that the use of insulation is optional, so you can take thinner bars or a galvanized profile.

If the walls of the room are even, then the imitation of the timber can be mounted without the crate, this way you can save space.

If the installation is carried out in a heated room, then the panels can be painted no earlier than a month after their installation, it takes time for them to dry out, after which they will not form on the surface small cracks.

Fasteners

Since panels with a thickness of 16-21 cm are used indoors, they can be fastened with clamps or self-tapping screws.

Reinforced kleimer

These are special metal elements in the form of a bracket, which allow the panels to be securely attached to the crate, while remaining invisible, the size of the cleats (number) is chosen taking into account the thickness of the rear groove of the panels.

Reinforced kleimer is suitable for fixing imitation timber both indoors and when cladding the facade.

Self-tapping screws

In addition, the imitation of the timber can be fastened with galvanized screws or self-tapping screws, as well as with construction, screw or finishing nails.

Output

If you want to transform your home, make it beautiful and unique, while spending a little money, hold it up.

At correct installation imitation of a bar, you will get an excellent result that will delight you for many years and all this will be done by hand.

Useful video

Sheathing the house with imitation of timber in the video below:

In contact with

Installation of a false beam that simulates the surface of a squared wall allows you to create an attractive facade surface. When installing the material, it is important to correctly complete all the steps included in the technological process, including the fastening of the imitation of the timber, which is performed in several ways. You can read about how to sheathe a house with a false beam without violating the established technology in the article.

Preliminary activities

In every job, proper preparation for it is important. It consists in the following processes preceding the main work:

  • calculation and purchase of the necessary materials;
  • preparation of purchased materials;
  • preparation of tools that will be needed in the work.

Let's consider what preparatory steps will help to successfully carry out the cladding of a building with an imitation of a timber with your own hands.

We calculate the required material

To calculate the material for the upcoming work, you need to know what technology will be used. The facade is sheathed with false beams with or without preliminary insulation. In the first case, in addition to cladding panels, you will need:

  • windproof film;
  • vapor barrier membrane;
  • basalt insulation in mats (mineral wool);
  • timber for the base lathing (50x50);
  • timber (rail) for counter-lattice (50x30);
  • fasteners for the main lathing (U-shaped suspensions for plasterboard profiles are suitable);
  • self-tapping screws for wood.

If insulation is not included in the plans, we exclude wind protection and vapor barrier, insulation and rail for counter-lattice from the list.

Materials from the first three items of the list are calculated as follows: total wall area, minus windows and doors, plus 10%. The lumber for the base lathing is calculated taking into account the step of the guides of 60 cm (corresponds to the width of the insulation mats). For counter-lattice, the optimal spacing of the racks is 50 cm, taking into account additional slats to "bypass" door and window openings. Fasteners for the main guides are installed after 70-80 cm, from which it is worth starting when calculating the required number.

The calculation of the false beam depends on whether it is made to order (in this case there is less waste) or whether it is purchased with plates of a certain length. In the second situation, you need to take about 5% of the total area of ​​the walls without openings in stock.

If unprocessed panels are purchased, it is necessary to provide for the purchase of primers and targeted impregnations for wood (antifungal, antibacterial, reducing the ability to burn, etc.).

Pre-assembly preparation of the raised beam

Imitation of a bar is made from solid wood and is different in the degree of surface treatment and the quality of raw materials, therefore, it is often necessary to additionally grind the front surface. In order not to do this on the wall, it is much more convenient to modify the panels before installation. Given the large surface area, it is better to use an electric sander for these purposes, since manual grinding will take a lot of time and effort, but will not give the desired quality.

Also, before installation, the panels are treated with various impregnations and primers. Firstly, it is possible to process the trims of the raised beam from all sides. Secondly, again, this is much more convenient. As a result, after installing the imitation of the timber, it remains only to open the finished surface with a stain or varnish.

Cooking the tool

To carry out the entire range of work on the installation of a ventilated facade using a false beam as a finishing cladding, you will need the following tools:

  • jigsaw (for sawing wood panels);
  • water (laser) level for breaking off the starting horizontal;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer drill (if the base wall is made of brick or concrete);
  • yardstick;
  • square;
  • a small hammer (if it is supposed to fasten the strips with galvanized nails).

Having prepared the necessary tools, you can proceed with the installation of the battens and thermal insulation.

Assembling the base frame and wall insulation

In order to make the installation of a bar on the facade of the house, or rather its imitation, it is not necessary to insulate the walls. However, it is better and more expedient to take care of thermal insulation immediately, even if the walls do not seem too cold. As practice shows, insulation is never superfluous, and insulation made from the inside is less effective and takes up useful living space, so we will consider how to sheathe a building with a false beam with preliminary insulation.

Timber panels are always installed horizontally only. Therefore, the battens of the counter battens should have a vertical direction, and the bars of the base battens should have a horizontal direction.

On a note. A counter grill is needed so that there is enough space between the insulation and the casing for ventilation, which prevents the accumulation of condensation. This is the essence of the definition of "ventilated facade".

Let's move on to practice and consider the sequence of working operations using the example of one of the walls of a building.

  1. We cover the surface of the base wall with a vapor barrier membrane. It is needed in order to protect the basalt insulation from steam penetrating from inside the house.
  2. At the corners of the wall, we install pins, between which, along a plumb line or level, we pull vertically the threads corresponding to the outer surface of the main beams.
  3. According to the threads, we install the bars with a step corresponding to the width of the insulation mats (usually 60 cm).
  4. We lay basalt thermal insulation, make sure that there are as few gaps as possible between the mats, which are cold bridges.
  5. The next step is a windscreen. We roll the canvas from top to bottom, attach it to the bars with a stapler. The next canvas overlaps the previous one by at least 15 cm.
  6. On top of the basic horizontal beams, we install the counter-lattice slats, pulling them to the guides with hardened (black) wood screws. The length of the self-tapping screws is 55-60 mm with a rail thickness of 30 mm.

We create the same structure on the rest of the walls, tying (fixing with self-tapping screws) the bars of the base lathing to each other, if possible, after which we proceed to the main stage - the installation of the imitation of the bar.

Do-it-yourself false beam installation

Before proceeding with the installation of wooden cladding panels, we will figure out the best way to fix the planks. There are three options:

  • self-tapping screws for wood;
  • special nails;
  • kleimers.

Which option should you choose? Let's take a look at each of them.

It is fastest to fix with self-tapping screws, but in order to prevent the wood from cracking, it is advisable to drill a hole for each screw, the diameter corresponding to the thickness of the self-tapping screw. The disadvantage of this method is in the rigid attraction of the bar to the crate, which prevents minor displacements of the material when the temperature changes. This puts stress on the wood, which can lead to premature damage (cracking).

Nails (special ones with anti-corrosion galvanizing are needed) make it possible to displace, since they have a smooth surface. But to work with them, you need a skill, without which not everyone will be able to correctly hammer small nails at the right angle, while not damaging the face of the panel.

Advice. If, nevertheless, you chose nails as a fixing of the panels, in order to "finish off" them when the cap almost entered, use the breakdown as a guide. The tip of the breakdown should be slightly larger than the diameter of the nail head.

Kleimers are special brackets that grip the panel with one side, while with the other they are attracted to the guide rail with self-tapping screws. This is the most convenient way fix an imitation of a bar. Installation in this way provides for the purchase of cleats, which incurs additional costs - this is a minus.

Having decided on the appropriate method of fixing the panels, you can proceed to their direct installation, which occurs in this sequence.

  1. With the help of a laser (water level), the horizontal is bounced along the perimeter of the building at the level of the top of the basement. This line will correspond to the bottom edge of the first panel from the bottom.
  2. The first timber imitation timber plate is installed with the thorn down and fixed on both sides (top and bottom).
  3. The second and subsequent panels are inserted with a spike into the groove of the previous strip and are fixed only from above (to each vertical strip).
  4. The topmost panel in most cases does not fit completely across its entire width. To close the top of the wall, you have to saw the bar lengthwise according to the width of the uncovered space, for which you need a jigsaw.
  5. In the corners of the building, so that the docking is unobtrusive and not conspicuous, it is better to saw down the adjacent strips of adjacent walls at an angle of 45˚. It is possible to put straight cut edges on the ends of the planks installed on the adjacent wall.
  6. If the length of the panel is not enough for the width of the wall, you need to connect the joining strips on a vertical rail, fixing the edge of each of them. To make the junction unobtrusive, it is better to cut the joining ends at an angle.

Places of corner joints of timber imitation panels, edge areas near openings can be closed with special platbands that are attached over the wooden cladding with the same screws or nails.

False beams, originally intended for facing facades, have now become widely used for interior decoration. The technology of its installation inside the building does not differ much from the facade installation, but it still has a number of nuances, which you can find out by watching this video.

Do-it-yourself installation of imitation of a bar is completed. It remains to decorate the surface to your liking and enjoy the result of the work done.

House cladding with imitation timber can be used for wall cladding from the most different materials, both external and internal, including for winter caracas houses.

The structure, faced with an imitation of a bar from the outside, looks like a solid wooden house, built from a real solid bar with a flat surface and rounded edges.

What is imitation timber

Imitation timber (false timber) is a facing material in the form of wooden panels, similar to lining, but wider and thicker. To fasten adjacent boards during the installation process, a groove-tenon system is used. The thickness of the panels is most often from 1.6 to 3.6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm and a length of 200 to 600 cm in half a meter increments. But other dimensions can also be found.

This material can be used to sheathe walls from:

  • Wood
  • Bricks
  • Beams
  • Foam blocks
  • Gas blocks
  • Cinder blocks
  • Monolithic concrete

Mounting

Having the skills of repair and construction works, you can mount the imitation yourself, provided that all the technologies for cladding the house with imitation of a bar are observed. It is recommended that the facing material be cured for about a week in the atmospheric environment where it will be installed. This is necessary so that the moisture content of the panels is equal to that of the local environment.

Installation steps for external wall cladding:

  1. Fastening the vapor barrier
  2. Installation of the lathing
  3. Insulation laying
  4. Fastening of wind and moisture protection
  5. Installing a counter grill
  6. Cladding installation
  7. Veneer processing

Vapor barrier

For vapor barrier, you can use glassine, waterproofing or other similar material. The sheets are stacked with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The rolls are attached to the top of the wall. To do this, you can use aluminum tape or another acceptable method.

It is not scary if the material does not fit tightly to the walls - later it will be pressed against the lathing structure. To ensure the integrity of the insulation, breaks and joints are glued with tape.

Lathing

The lathing is made from a dry bar. It is preliminarily recommended to treat the bars with bioprotective and fire retardants. The thickness of the bar is selected for the thickness of the insulation material, but not less than 3 cm. Any material can be taken for insulation. Check in advance with styrofoam, etc.

The lathing beams are fixed at a distance of no more than one meter from one another, so that the trims of the false beam lie exactly. The size of the gap between the beams is selected depending on the width of the insulating sheets. The elements of the lathing are installed strictly vertically in level.

The bars are attached:

  • Or with frame dowels - to concrete, foam concrete, brick
  • Either with self-tapping screws, nails - to the tree

Insulation

Insulation is installed between the elements of the sheathing. It can be fixed in the following ways:

  • Special dowels-nails for thermal insulation
  • Knitting wire
  • Nylon twine

Waterproof membrane

The wind-moisture protective membrane protects the insulation from street moisture. Isospan or other material with similar properties can be used. Sheets are overlapped double-sided tape and attached to the lathing with staples using a furniture stapler. The joints are glued with aluminum tape.

And if you are just dreaming about your big and cozy house, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the houses of the chalet from the bar. Find out all the benefits of such structures.

Imitation of a bar - interior decoration

At interior decoration insulation can be omitted.

Bars for lathing can be used with a small thickness. They are installed at a distance of 60-70 cm. You can also use a galvanized profile, which is used for mounting drywall.

Imitation of a bar can also be mounted on the ceiling. For this, thin strips must be used. At the same time, it is recommended to paint them before installation in place - this will reduce the labor intensity of the work.

In principle, indoors, if the base is flat, you can do without the crate and save money inner space... But with the help of the crate you can:

  • Hide communication wires
  • Achieve some warming of the room due to the air layer between the wall and the cladding

Do not paint a false beam in a heated room immediately after installation. You need to wait 3-4 weeks. After the panels dry, small cracks may form in them, which will damage the varnish or paint.

If the imitation of a bar is mounted in compliance with all the requirements of technology, it will provide an excellent appearance of the lined surface and will last for many years.

Video on how to clad a house with imitation of a bar

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