Drywall has been a fairly popular material in construction and repair for many years. Walls, niches, arches, ceilings and, of course, ceilings are erected from it. Plasterboard sheets in the hands of a master can easily turn into a reliable, durable and at the same time stylish, beautiful and original ceiling structure. In addition, there are a lot of options for the execution of a single-level or multi-level ceiling, it all depends on individual preferences and competent installation.

Plasterboard finishing allows you to decorate ceiling surfaces in almost any style. The shape of the lines, the presence of individual blocks, curly elements - all these elements are determined by the design sketch. However, there is a fundamental base, which consists of three types of ceiling structures, namely:

Plasterboard ceiling in one level

A ceiling surface of this type can simultaneously be both finished structure as well as serve as a base for the construction of a more complex ceiling. The construction principle is quite simple. Initially attached metal carcass, then, if necessary, electrical work is carried out, then - sheathing of the GKL frame, and the final stage will be finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering, etc.)

Single-level ceilings have a number of advantages, among which are:

the ceiling surface, lined with plasterboard in one level, does not lose its original appearance even with the general movement of the foundation;
when making the ceiling in one level, the space between the rough and the front surface is significantly saved;
high degree of surface leveling, good way hide all the irregularities and defects of the original ceiling;
excellent performance of heat and sound insulation;
ease of installation and subsequent maintenance.

Two- or three-level ceilings

They are built on the basis of a single-level ceiling surface. The basic principle is that the lower the level of the plasterboard sheets, the smaller their total area, while the installation of each next level takes place on the basis of the previous one. All levels should be combined with each other not only from a technical perspective, but also from an aesthetic point of view, without causing visual discomfort.

The main types of multi-level ceilings are distinguished: frame, diagonal and zonal.

Complex ceiling structures

Outwardly, they are quite similar to multi-level structures, but their structure is more complex, as it can include curly and patterned elements. In particular curly ceilings predominantly have individual or group convex elements. The abstract appearance of a plasterboard complex ceiling implies the presence of spiral structures, and very often with finishing the use of different colors is used. Soaring ceiling means installation using fittings and metal rods, as well as specially planned lighting to create air volume.

Plasterboard structures on the ceiling

The design of the ceiling surface using drywall is quite a variable method, while not requiring compliance with any special technological difficulties. Even a novice master can independently build both a single-level and a complex ceiling plasterboard structure, it is enough just to purchase the necessary material, the appropriate "toolbox" and remember the main technological provisions.

Required tools

In order for the installation of gypsum plasterboard to take place without forced problems, the master must take care of such tools as:

Necessary materials

In addition to the main constituent element - plasterboard sheets, you will need ceiling, guides and supporting metal profiles, a straight suspension, a sealing tape, connectors, profile crabs, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Layout and surface preparation

In order for the future plasterboard ceiling to turn out smooth, without distortions and deviations from the conceived sketch, before starting the installation, it is necessary to preliminary mark the ceiling surface.

The main purpose of such markings is to draw a common horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling to further obtain a flat ceiling surface. A secondary task will be additional drawing parallels on the concrete itself or wooden base... It is along these lines that the bearing profile will be attached.

As a rule, the total horizontal is located below the ceiling surface at a level of 8 to 15 cm.This value depends on the evenness of the rough ceiling, as well as on the complexity of the degree of concentration of communications that will be located in the space between the concrete (wooden) surface and sheets of drywall.

When drawing parallel lines on a rough ceiling, a certain step should be observed between them. Its recommended value is 50-60 cm. It is also worth carefully observing the parallelism of the applied lines, not only among themselves, but also relative to the line of the walls.

If the area of the repaired room is small, then to control the correct application of the appropriate marking, you can use either water or ordinary building level... However, if the area of the ceiling surface is large enough, then it is more expedient to use non-jewel or laser level.

Features of the construction of the frame

Construction frame structure must be made taking into account many technological requirements so that the future ceiling is not only even and beautiful, but also durable and safe. To do this, you should follow only a certain list of professional recommendations.

Plasterboard installation

Installation technology is simple, does not require special knowledge and skills, you just need to remember the basic provisions.

When constructing plasterboard ceiling structures, the latter very often has to be cut due to the characteristics of the area of the room or the design nuances of the sketch itself. In order to competently and without unnecessary damage to cut the gypsum board, several general rules should be observed:

Simple installation, minimal "tool" and "material" set, simple maintenance and a relatively low cost indicator have made ceiling structures for many years quite in demand for finishing the ceiling surfaces of premises for any purpose.

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Self-assembly plasterboard on the ceiling - 7 stages of manufacturing a ceiling covering

Among the existing options for arranging a final ceiling covering, one of the most popular methods is to sew the main ceiling with plasterboard sheets. At first glance, installing a plasterboard ceiling may seem difficult for self-made... From my own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, even without practical skills and experience in working with this material.

The use of drywall for ceiling decoration

Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) is a rigid sheet finishing material, which is intended for the manufacture interior partitions, as well as for the rough surface of ceilings, walls, window and doorways, and other elements building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called "gypsum" or "dry plaster". Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin but dense cardboard, between which there is a homogeneous solid layer of hardened gypsum mortar.

In order not to go into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the use of sheet drywall for fine finishing ceilings:

Plasterboard sheets have an even, uniform matte surface, which in itself is the ideal base for applying finishing finishing materials (facing tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

Compared to others building materials(brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of drywall is significantly lower, besides, it has a much lower specific gravity, therefore, it is considered the most suitable material for interior construction;
The gypsum mineral base does not burn on its own, and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of drywall are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, so it is safe to use it for interior decoration living and sleeping quarters;
Due to the composite sheet construction, drywall has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity... These qualities make it possible to use it, both for leveling rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for sewing complex interior details with a curved configuration (decorative bay windows, cornices, ceiling lighting, etc.);

Plasterboard sheets can be hemmed at a considerable distance from the main ceiling... This makes it possible to carry out hidden laying of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in free space behind a decorative suspended ceiling;
Ceiling sheets must be attached to a supporting metal frame, which itself has a certain thickness. After installing drywall, the final ceiling in the room becomes lower by at least 50 mm, so this method is not suitable for finishing rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
The mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of the cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when soaked, they lose their strength and deteriorate over time. For this reason, I do not recommend using this material for finishing damp rooms with constant high humidity (sauna, bathroom or shower room).

Cardboard for the outer layers of gypsum board is made from natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, in conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient fresh air supply, an ideal breeding ground for the development and growth of mold is created on its surface. To prevent the appearance of mold, it is necessary to provide optimal temperature conditions for operation and high-quality ventilation of the inter-ceiling space.

Stage 1: calculation of the amount of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should not be any problems with this at all, since all components for installing drywall can currently be purchased at any building hypermarket.

Drywall sheets can be 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm thick. Sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm have less weight, so it is more preferable to use them for finishing ceilings The required number of sheets is determined based on the total ceiling area, plus 5% of the stock;
Galvanized metal profile "UD" with a section of 28x27 mm is intended for fixing gypsum plasterboard sheets to the wall along the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

The galvanized metal profile of the CD brand with a cross-section of 60x27 mm is often called a ceiling profile, because it is intended for fixing drywall sheets to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated on the basis that the guide ceiling profiles should be evenly spaced over the entire ceiling area, with a step of 600 mm between them. For trimming this profile, you also need to add 5% of the length;
In cases where it is required to leave some space between the capital and the false ceiling, special fasteners are used for mounting the ceiling profile, which can be of two types:

Straight U-shaped distance suspension used if the distance between the main and false ceilings is no more than 120 mm;
Spring wire hangers allow to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the capital one at a distance from 120 to 1000 mm.

The number of distance hangers must be selected so that they can be installed over the entire ceiling area, with a step of not more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse directions;
For splicing the guide profiles together along the length, you will need metal connectors, and to connect two perpendicular profiles in one plane - special crabs. The number of crabs is calculated using the formula: total length of the ceiling profile / 0.6;

The fastening of the metal frame to the concrete ceiling should be carried out using galvanized self-tapping screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. To fasten the sheets to the metal frame, use phosphated self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm;
For filling the joints between the sheets and sealing the attachment points, you will need a reinforcing fiberglass mesh-serpyanka and a finishing acrylic putty for drywall.

For false ceilings in the kitchen or bathroom, I recommend using moisture resistant drywall sheets. They have the nomenclature designation GKLV, and are distinguished by the green color of the outer layer of the cardboard and the blue color of the factory lettering.

Stage 2: choosing tools

For mounting drywall to the ceiling, no special equipment is required, therefore, when performing finishing works, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To attach the profiles of the supporting frame to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer drill with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful impact drill;
In the process, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a cordless screwdriver for these purposes;

To cut metal profiles to the desired size, you can use a grinder with cutting disc for metal, hand hacksaw for metal, or scissors for metal;
It is convenient to cut drywall sheets in a straight line with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
If you need to make a curved cut along a radius or curved line, you can use an electric jigsaw with a saw for wood or metal;

From hand tools you will need a square, a tape measure, a building level, a hydraulic or laser level, a plumb line, a chopping cord, a medium hammer and a plane to trim the cut edge of the sheets;
For the final finishing, you will need two metal spatulas with blade widths of 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of emery cloth with a grain size from P80 to P150.

Installation work on finishing the ceiling with plasterboard can be performed from two ladders, but it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If in household there is no such table, it is possible to build two small platforms of such height from boards or bars so that the half-bent arm of a standing person can freely reach the ceiling.

Stage 3: preparatory work and marking

Before doing installation works, you need to completely empty the room, remove all the furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling covering (foam tiles, stretch ceiling etc.). If wallpaper is glued on the main ceiling, which normally sticks, and does not fall off themselves, then it is not necessary to dismantle them.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out the laying and installation of utilities (electrical cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioner, etc.), which must be hidden behind the suspended ceiling.

In order to mount drywall sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, you need to apply the appropriate markings along the perimeter of the walls;

Capital ceilings in residential buildings are far from always even, therefore when applying markings on the walls, I do not advise to push off from the main ceiling;
For drawing horizontal lines, it is most convenient to use a laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line of the laser beam, apply horizontal markings on each wall;
The laser level is quite expensive, so if you do not have one, then for these purposes you can use a hydraulic level, which works on the principle of communicating vessels;
In an arbitrary place on any wall, a horizontal mark should be placed 10 mm above the level at which the final ceiling should be mounted;

After that, one person should apply one of the transparent tubes of the hydraulic level to this place, and combine the level of the liquid in the tube with the mark on the wall;
The second person should, by rearranging the ladder, put horizontal marks opposite the liquid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each corner of the room;
After that, all marks on the walls must be connected with a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary of the installation of the wall guide profile for drywall. It is more convenient to draw a long horizontal line not under a ruler, but to beat off with chalk using a stretched construction cord;
To make it easier to mount the ceiling profile, in addition to marking the walls, I also recommend applying the marking lines to the ceiling;

To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls, you need to draw an axial line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
From the center line, in each direction to the side long walls, lay an equal number of 600 mm long segments, and connect them with parallel lines. The last segments, which will be closer to the wall, can be of any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
The same must be done between the short walls: draw a short center line, mark from it in each direction with an interval of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. Ultimately, you should get a ceiling in a cell, with a side length of each square along the axes of 600 mm.

It is easy to make a hydraulic level with your own hands from two transparent tubes 200-300 mm long, 8-12 mm in diameter, and a piece of flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. Approximately in the middle of each tube, you need to apply two marks, and connect them together with a rubber hose, after which, from mark to mark, fill the entire system with plain water.

Stage 4: assembly and installation of the supporting frame

After marking, the “UD” guide profile can be fixed to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to use self-tapping screws with plastic dowels 6x60 mm, installing them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

In the event that the ceiling in the room is flat enough, and you do not plan a hidden laying of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be attached directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, to mount it, you need to use one of two types of distance hangers. As an example, I will talk about how to properly attach a profile to the ceiling using perforated U-shaped spacers.

First of all, using the same self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, you need to fix all distance U-shaped suspensions from a perforated metal strip to the ceiling;

For this we need the markings in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight marking line, it is necessary to fix such a number of suspensions so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
After that, you need to install the longitudinal ceiling profiles. To do this, one whip of the "CD" profile must be inserted into the U-shaped hangers and temporarily fixed with a long nail or hairpin;
Next, bring its end inside the wall profile, and fix it with two self-tapping screws. After that, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in level, and also fixed to the legs of each suspension using self-tapping screws;

If the length of one whip is not enough, then it can be extended with the same profile... After it is fixed to all remote hangers, its free end must be brought into the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also secured with two self-tapping screws;
Thus, all longitudinal ceiling profiles must be secured. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the center lines of each profile is exactly 600 mm, with a permissible error of no more than 10 mm in each direction.

After that, you need to install the transverse jumpers. They are mounted in the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to U-shaped suspensions;
The only difference is that all internal lintels are attached to the longitudinal profiles with crabs... This mounting technology allows you to connect two profiles to each other at right angles in one horizontal plane.

To prevent sagging of the supporting frame in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend installing temporary control diagonals. To do this, you need to wrap one self-tapping screw in each corner of the room in the wall guide profile, then tie it to them, and pull a thin nylon thread along the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: filing drywall sheets

When the supporting frame is fully assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend checking its geometric dimensions again and making sure that it is perfectly horizontal. After that, you can start directly attaching the drywall to the ceiling.

Each plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 9.5 mm can have dimensions of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be done at least together.

Installation of sheets should start from the longitudinal center line, while each sheet should be located parallel to the long wall;

Before fixing the drywall to the ceiling, the first sheet must be applied from below to the supporting frame in such a way that its short side does not reach the short wall by 2 mm, and its long edge runs exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
Having installed the first sheet in the desired position, one person should hold it from below, and press it with his hands to the metal frame, and the second person, in the meantime, should fix it to the profile with self-tapping screws;
Self-tapping screws must be tightened evenly around the entire perimeter of the sheet, with a step of 150-200 mm, while fastening not only to the longitudinal guides, but also to the transverse bridges. It is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw with such an effort so that the cap sinks into the plasterboard by about 1 mm;

The second sheet must also be pressed against the supporting frame, and rest it with the short side against the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, you need to fix one row of sheets on one side of the center line;
It is desirable that the joints of the sheets in the first and second row are not located opposite each other.... In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be cut to length. In order for the sheets to be staggered, it is better to start fastening the second row from the opposite side of the room;

In a similar way, it is necessary to fix all the other sheets of drywall, while it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls by 2 mm along the entire perimeter, and their joints fall exactly in the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
Before attaching the outer sheets along the long walls, they will need to be trimmed to the width. When trimming and fastening the edge sheets, it should be borne in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge should be close to the adjacent sheet.

So that the assistant does not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise you to make one or two wooden supports for drywall. Each support is a T-shaped structure of 50x50 mm wooden blocks, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal bar of such a "mop" should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower support leg should rest on the floor, and not reach the supporting frame by 10-12 mm in height.

Stage 6: rough finishing work

After all the sheets of drywall are mounted, even by a professional craftsman, small gaps and cracks will remain between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be dotted with black caps from self-tapping screws. In order to give it finished appearance, and prepare for painting or gluing wallpaper, at the final stage of installation false ceiling a rough finish is in progress.

I advise you to use a ready-made acrylic-based finishing putty for this.

Ceiling filling is usually done in two stages.... First, you need to putty all visible fasteners, caps from self-tapping screws, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other large irregularities and surface defects;

The long edges of drywall sheets are usually chamfered or shallowly cut. In order to prevent the seams from cracking over time, in the process of filling in this recess it is necessary to lay a reinforcing glass mesh, which is popularly called "serpyanka";
When the first layer of putty has finally hardened, it must be sanded with an emery cloth of medium grain size (P80-P100).
For gluing dense wallpaper on a thick vinyl or fiberglass base, such surface preparation will be sufficient;

If you plan to paint the ceiling with an interior acrylic paint, I recommend applying another thin layer finishing putty, and after it dries, sand the entire surface with fine emery cloth with grit P100-P150;
At the end of all, you need to remove fine dust from the putty with a damp cloth or a soft wide brush, and apply one or two layers of a penetrating primer for interior work over the entire area of the ceiling.

For sanding the surface after filling, I recommend using an electric vibrating sander with interchangeable perforated velcro sanding discs. If there is no such machine, then to evenly remove the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clips for rolled sandpaper.

Stage 7: mounting the ceiling light

Any enclosed space, even in the presence of natural light, requires installation ceiling lamps or chandeliers. As you know, drywall ceiling sheets have a small thickness (9.5 mm), therefore they are not able to withstand a significant weight load. Modern household chandeliers can vary widely in size and weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to drywall or a metal profile, then this method will not work for a massive heavy chandelier.

For those who do not know how to fix a chandelier to a plasterboard suspended ceiling, I can tell you two simple, but very reliable ways:

The first of them is that when installing a metal supporting frame, it is necessary to provide in advance for the installation of a mortgage platform made of thick plywood. This method can be used to mount any ceiling luminaire weighing up to 20 kg;

In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, a round or square plywood platform with a size of 250x250 mm and a thickness of at least 20 mm must be attached to the main concrete ceiling;
After finishing the ceiling, the luminaire can be screwed to plywood through drywall using ordinary wood screws 4.5x50 mm in size;
If the chandelier is to hang on a hook, then a mounting hook with a large screw thread must be screwed into the board, which is designed to be screwed into plastic dowels.

The second method involves fixing the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the main ceiling, therefore, it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

In the event that the ceiling space has a height of more than 200 mm, I recommend preparing the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing the drywall sheets;
If the space between the main and false ceilings is less than 200 mm, then the hook for attaching the chandelier can be installed after finishing the finishing;
To do this, you first need to cut a hole with a diameter of 50 mm in drywall, and then, using a puncher with a 10 mm drill, drill a hole in the center of the concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
The expanding anchor MSA10 must be screwed onto a long eyebolt or threaded rod with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm.
Then insert and slightly hammer it into the hole in the concrete slab, and screw the eye bolt into the anchor along the thread, until a characteristic metal squeak appears;
This method is also good because it allows you to hide long wires behind a plasterboard ceiling.

A folding spring anchor can be used to secure a light fixture or chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling. To do this, drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the plasterboard, squeeze the spring-loaded legs of the anchor with your fingers, and push it into the hole. After the legs are unclenched under the action of the spring behind the plasterboard sheet, you need to tighten the clamping nut from the outside.

Conclusion

If by technical project, interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference lies in the fact that first you need to mount a continuous plasterboard covering over the entire area of the ceiling, and then proceed with the installation and sewing of additional decorative levels and cornices for counter-tracery lighting.

You can see all the visual information about installing drywall on ceilings in the attached video in this article, and if you have any questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

Plasterboard is one of the most popular materials used for ceiling finishes. And the attractive appearance and durability of this material largely depends on how correctly the frame was designed and mounted under the main wooden or concrete ceiling... Errors and shortcomings in this matter, made through ignorance or inattention, will require redoing the entire work. Therefore, it is very important to study how the frame is arranged and how it is made.

Let's start with the basics. A frame is a supporting structure created from a set of linear elements such as timber or steel profiles. Its main task is to hold sheets of drywall under the ceiling, since it is almost impossible to fix them in any other way. The second task that the frame performs is leveling the ceiling finish. It is unlikely that for someone it will be news that the ceilings in most apartments are far from perfectly flat. A suspended structure made of profile and drywall sheets corrects this defect and gives a smooth and attractive surface. And the last task performed by the frame is to provide space for the wires that are fed to the fixtures built into the drywall sheets.

Important! In addition to the above functions, the frame is used to create a multi-level ceiling finish. But more about this will be discussed below.

Types of frames

There are several criteria by which the frames for plasterboard suspended ceilings are classified. The first and main one is according to the material used.

In turn, the frame made of a metal profile is divided into two main subspecies.

Another criterion by which the frame is classified is the number of levels.

Drywall prices

drywall

Now we will consider the components, when connected in a certain system, a ready and durable frame is obtained.

Accessories - profiles

The frame structure includes profiles, connectors and fasteners. This part of the article tells about metal profiles, their standard sizes and how exactly the elements are used to create a false ceiling.

Important! For rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen, it is necessary to use a galvanized profile, as it is more resistant to corrosion. A ceiling with such a frame will last much longer, a small overpayment for its elements is quite reasonable and reasonable.

V general view the profile is a long product made of zinc-coated metal sheet. The section and size of the profiles depend on what tasks it performs in the frame structure.

Important! Do not confuse PNP with the usual guide profile, abbreviated as PN. The latter is used mainly when creating frames for drywall partitions and decorating walls with this material.

Table. The main characteristics of the profiles used to create false ceilings.

Name	Height, mm	Width, mm	Length, mm	Weight per 1 m length, kg
PP 60/27	60	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,6
PNP 28/27	28	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,4
PA 60/27	60	27	2750, 3000, 4000 and 4500	0,6

Accessories - hangers and connectors

By themselves, the profiles that act as beams are useless - they need to be fixed to the ceiling and connected together. This task is undertaken by the corresponding components - suspensions and connectors. Let's consider them in more detail.

The second most important element of the frame after the profiles is the U-shaped suspension. Roughly speaking, it is a rolled steel shackle with a width of 27 mm and a height of 60 mm. The width corresponds to the width of the PP profile. The "legs" of the suspension along their length have many paired holes with equal intervals. The base of the element has holes for fasteners - anchor bolts for concrete floors and self-tapping screws for wood. Suspensions are subject to the greatest load, therefore, it is impossible to save on their quantity in any case.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

The task performed by the connectors is clear from their name - to connect the profiles to each other in a certain position. There are many varieties of this element.

Important! When calculating the quantity necessary materials keep in mind that a reserve is needed for profiles, connectors, hangers and fasteners - an additional 10-20% of the required amount. If any of the elements is damaged or turns out to be defective, the reserve will be very useful.

Accessories - fasteners

So, the profiles are covered, so are the connectors. Now it's time to find out how all the elements of the frame are fastened to each other. The main type of fastener used to create a false ceiling is self-tapping screws, better known as self-tapping screws.

To connect the profiles to each other, the following are used:

piercing self-tapping screws - LN9, LN9.5, LN12, etc .;
drilling screws - LB9, LB11, LB16, etc.

The number after the letter designation is the length of the screw in millimeters. The diameter of a self-tapping fastener for a profile in most cases is 3.5 mm.

Important! There is a kind of fasteners for profiles that have a thin head. This type should be used if you want to screw a self-tapping screw in a place to which a drywall sheet will then adjoin.

Suspensions and the frame itself are attached to the ceiling slab using dowels or screws (for concrete slabs). If the creation of a false ceiling takes place in wooden house, then self-tapping screws are used, but much more than "bugs" connecting the frame elements.

Planning and calculation

The first stage in creating a frame for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard is planning and calculation. To do this, you will need several sheets of paper, a ruler, square, pens and pencils. And for directly measuring the room, a ruler and a level are needed (preferably a laser, but hydraulic is also suitable). To subsequently divide the ceiling into zones and plan it, you will need a marker and a chopping thread.

Step 1. The length of all walls is measured. Please note that even in a rectangular room, opposite walls can be of different lengths. This is not so noticeable to the eye, but when drawing up a plan for the frame it is of great importance.

Step 2. The height is measured from floor to ceiling in every corner of the room, in the middle of each wall and in the center of the room.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

screwdriver

Step 3. Based on the data obtained in the previous stages, the angle with the smallest height is found. At this point, the distance from the ceiling to the horizontal plane is measured, in which the plasterboard ceiling will be located. The height of the suspended ceiling is calculated depending on two factors - the total height of the room and those communications and objects that need to be placed between the drywall and the concrete floor. The optimal value is from 50 to 65 mm, this is enough for laying wiring and installing spotlights.

Step 4. With the help of a level, a pencil and a thread, a line of the suspended ceiling is drawn around the perimeter of the room, along which the installation of metal profiles or wooden beams will be carried out.

Step 5. A diagram of the room is created on paper in a certain scale and with the exact values obtained by measuring the length of each wall.

Step 6. The points of attachment of the guide profile and fasteners are applied. The latter should be spaced at intervals of 25-40 cm.

Step 7. The lines of ceiling profiles are applied to the diagram. For a cellular scheme, the distance between them should be 60 cm - half the length of a standard drywall sheet. For a transverse scheme, the distance is from 30 to 40 cm. It is important to remember that the edges of two adjacent sheets are attached to the same profile, and in the drawing all lines run in the middle of the PCB. Pay special attention to this point in the following steps.

Step 8. The scheme is supplemented by points for the location of suspensions (every 40-60 cm) and points where lamps and wiring elements were mounted.

Step 9. From a sheet of paper, the diagram is transferred to a previously prepared ceiling using a tape measure and a thread. The horizontal plane is controlled with a level.

Step 10. Based on the plan, the required number of profiles, connectors and fasteners is calculated.

Important! Plasterboard sheets and, accordingly, the frame for it are located along the direction indicated by the windows in the room, that is, the long side is perpendicular to the plane of the glass and the frame.

More precise dimensions for different types of ceilings are presented in the instructions below.

Ceiling surface preparation

We will briefly describe the measures for preparing the ceiling for the installation of the frame and the suspended ceiling.

Cellular frame - installation

To create a frame, from tools, in addition to a level, a thread and a marker, you will need a stepladder, a screwdriver, a hammer and a puncher.

Let us assume that the ceiling has already been planned out and divided using a grid into cells measuring 60 by 60 cm, and we will describe step by step the process of installing suspensions and profiles.

Photo of the frame with crab connectors for attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling

Step 1. A guide profile is installed along the line marked on the wall. Before that, a sealing tape is glued to the side adjacent to the wall and holes for dowels are created at intervals of 30-40 cm. The guides are installed along the entire perimeter of the room and are attached to each other using corner connectors.

Prices for crab frame connectors

frame connector crab

Step 2. Suspensions are installed 30 cm from the wall along the lines of the main frame profiles. Further, the suspensions are mounted with dowels with a step of 60 cm so that each suspension is in the middle between the future jumper profiles. The "legs" of the suspensions are bent down.

Step 3. Ceiling profiles are being prepared. 5-10 mm is cut off from the value approved according to the drawing, so that when the temperature rises, the plasterboard ceiling does not deform due to the expansion of the profiles.

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and connected with self-tapping bugs with hangers.

To align horizontally, you will need a level and assistants.

For this, such a magnet may come in handy. We hook the magnet onto the profile. A strip of masking tape with a line is glued to the magnet. The laser must be set taking into account the distance from the line on the magnet to the surface of the bearing profile. By combining a line and a beam, we will very simply and quickly produce a structure ideally flat in the plane of the horizon.

Step 5. As soon as the main PCBs are mounted, jumpers are installed between them from metal profiles cut to 590-595 mm. Fastening is done crosswise using a crab connector and small self-tapping screws.

Crab mount

The profile is inserted with one end into the start, and the other into the "crab"

Important! A sealing tape is glued to the back of the frame facing the ceiling. It is advisable to apply it even before the profile is fixed to the suspensions.

The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive base, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits sounds less.

Cross frame - installation

Compared to a cellular one, such a construction requires less material - there is no need for jumpers and, accordingly, in “crab” type connectors. But at the same time, the gap between the individual transverse profiles decreases - instead of 60 cm, 40-50 cm is needed.

Step 1. As described above in the article, the ceiling is marked out - a line for the guides is installed, with the help of a thread, the installation sites of the profiles are beaten off. In addition, you need to determine the angle as close as possible to 90 degrees.

Step 2. Holes are drilled in the wall for the guide profile in increments of 30-40 cm.

Step 3. The guide profile is pasted over sealing tape and is attached to the wall with screws and dowels.

Step 4. As for the cellular frame, suspensions are installed 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm from each other. The ends of the elements are bent down.

Step 5. The transverse ceiling profile is cut to the required length. In order not to damage the drywall during thermal expansion and prevent warping, the "extra" 5 mm are cut off.

Video - How to cut a UD and CD profile with your own hands

Step 6. The profile is pasted over with sealing tape from the bottom side, inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers using small self-tapping screws called bugs.

Multilevel frame - installation

There are many variations of a multi-level false ceiling, its shape, structure, and more, and their detailed description is a good topic for a separate article. The ceiling is also considered here, where both tiers and the sides between them are made of plasterboard.

Ceiling light prices

ceiling lamps

Step 1. The first thing is the markup. Here, twice as much attention is paid to the creation of a drawing and its transfer to the ceiling than for a single-level ceiling - the complexity of the task is much higher.

Step 2. On the wall, lines of guide profiles for the upper and lower levels are marked, holes are drilled for fasteners.

Step 3. The top-level guide profiles are fixed to the wall. The details are described in the previous instructions.

Step 4. Direct suspensions are installed. The spacing between them can be reduced (and, therefore, more hangers can be placed), since the load on the floor and frame will be higher.

Step 5. Top-level ceiling profiles are installed, as for a single-level ceiling. You can use both transverse and honeycomb construction.

Step 6. The guides of the lower level are attached to the wall.

Step 7. One of the straight profiles is cut into many vertical posts, which will be the "sides" between the levels of the ceiling. Using tiered or T-shaped connectors, the racks are attached to the upper level supporting structure.

Step 8. An arched profile is attached to the bottom of the posts. It can be replaced with a guide profile with evenly applied cuts and folds in the right places.

Step 9. Bearing PP is inserted between the arched profile and the guides of the lower level.

Video - Installation of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling

Thus, a frame for a multi-level ceiling is obtained, where an additional load is applied to the upper level. In such work, the help of an experienced master is very important.

Now, after reading this article, you know how a false ceiling frame works. It remains only to acquire materials, tools, a great desire and help from relatives or friends.

Video - Frame for plasterboard on the ceiling. Mounting

A fairly simple plasterboard ceiling device allows you to build it yourself.

At the same time, no special skills are required from you - a minimum skill and at least some skills in working with the most common tools are enough.

False ceiling overview

False ceiling construction

First, let's figure out what is the device of such a ceiling?

A plasterboard ceiling is a fairly rigid metal frame attached to the ceiling and walls, sheathed with plasterboard sheets on the underside.

It is made of a special profile of galvanized metal, and is suspended from the ceiling on a rigid suspension, or on a suspension of rods with special brackets.

The elements of the frame are arranged in such a way as to facilitate their plasterboarding as much as possible, and to make the structure as reliable as possible.

To give greater rigidity, the frame is also fixed to the walls of the room using a specially shaped profile.

By design, suspended ceilings are:

Sibling
Multilevel (in this case, the frame is mounted in such a way that the planes for plasterboard cladding are at different levels).

In principle, the device is single- and multi-level plasterboard ceiling does not differ, so if the technology is mastered on simple options, then you can handle a more complex design.

What do we need?

As we noted at the very beginning of the article, no complex tools are required to equip a suspended plasterboard ceiling. But the materials will have to be purchased.

We will need:

Drywall- normal construction or moisture resistant. Depending on the area of the room and the number of ceiling levels, it is easy to calculate the number of drywall sheets, especially since most manufacturers make them standard size- 2500x1200 mm.
Frame profile- both the starting one (attached to the walls around the perimeter of the room) and the main carrier (suspended from the ceiling)
Hangers- we choose depending on the distance between the ceiling and our future suspended ceiling.
For a ceiling located at a great distance from the ceiling, a wire rod suspension with a bracket is suitable.

Fasteners- dowels and screws
Putty for sealing joints between drywall sheets on the finished ceiling

Of the tools you need to have at your disposal:

Perforator
Screwdriver
Drywall knife or saw
Metal shears for profile trimming
Level (you can also use the usual construction, but better - laser)
Roulette

As you can see, nothing too complicated and expensive. When everything is purchased, you can start working on the arrangement of the false ceiling.

Plasterboard ceiling: step by step

Profile frame

The installation of suspended ceilings begins with the installation of a frame made of a special profile:

we clean old finishes, remove the chandelier and prepare communications (for example, wires, if we plan to make built-in lighting)
Then, on the walls of the room, along their entire perimeter, we draw a base line indicating the level of our future plasterboard ceiling.

Note!

Since it depends on the baseline how flat our ceiling will be, we must use the level to align it.

The best, of course, is a laser one, but an ordinary one is also suitable - as long as it is long enough and accurate.

We begin to attach the starting metal profile along the baseline. To fix the profile in the walls using a perforator, we drill holes, where we then drive in the dowels. Dowel sleeves can be used both metal and plastic - all the same, the load on this fastener assembly is not very large.
Having fixed the starting point, we go to the ceiling itself. Having marked out the main lines, we attach the suspensions to the ceiling, after which we bend the suspensions vertically down. If a rod suspension is used, we attach its bases to the ceiling also on a dowel.
Next, from the main bearing millet, we collect a frame from longitudinal and cross beams... We attach the profile beams to the suspensions and connect them together.
To connect them, we use longitudinal connectors, as well as “crab” connectors, which allow joining the beams at right angles.

Using the level, we control the horizontalness of the lower plane of the frame. If there are no complaints, you can start trimming.

The technology for mounting a suspended ceiling for greater clarity is presented in the video below:

Fastening drywall

Fastening drywall to a profile is the stage that completes the device of drywall ceilings: there is a video in the appendix to this article that will help you consider all the nuances in fastening.

We will give an algorithm for independently performing this stage of work:

Note!

If you work alone, then to facilitate fastening and ensure accuracy, the craftsmen recommend fixing the drywall to the frame with clamps.

Using self-tapping screws for drywall and a screwdriver, we fasten the sheets to the frame.
The self-tapping screw's head should not protrude above the surface of the sheet, at the same time, it should not be pressed into it too much - otherwise, the reliability of the fastening will suffer.

We putty the fixed sheets of drywall, paying special attention to the joints and masking the caps of the self-tapping screw. We process the dried filler with fine emery paper.

That's all! We have at our disposal a perfectly flat ceiling, ready for any decoration.

The above technology for arranging a plasterboard ceiling allows you to construct as simple single-level ceilings and complex structures. Of course, to erect a multi-level ceiling of an irregular shape, you will have to try with the design, and maybe even master the technology of profile bending - but the result is worth the effort!